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Black Friday with Airsoft in the UK, means dropping the existing prices to the actual RRP, pales in comparison to many EU/US online stores tbh.

Specna Arms Prime P-27 in bronze - my first M4 AEG

Bugger. Better cancel my Nigerian airsofting holiday then. 😕

Thank you for the warm welcome all, immediately went down the rabbit hole and pricing up go pros and 360 cams 😆 This is going to get expensive....

Just a quick update on a few things. The BR-55 had its first game at the start of this month. It worked well for the whole game, though I found afterwards that the V1 Maple Leaf magazine springs I used are useless and lost most of their shape. The V2 ML springs have apparently improved on this, so I'll have to pick some up before the next game. The "squashed" springs should work fine for the SMG magazines however, so no great waste. After a long day it made me realise I need to work on my arm strength more. I've sorted the small problems and sticking points, redesigned the bolt slightly, so it has a nice HK esque lock and slap now (allows a Halo 3 accurate BR reload). Still have one or two little cosmetic details to touch up, but I'd basically call the thing done short of threading the barrel. I had to find a decent cylinder head, nozzle and tappet combo that had good tolerances to stop the midcap syndrome. I still had to shim the tappet and nozzle a bit. I've heard of some people gluing them together, but I didn't particularly want to do that. I also significantly improved the airseal / consistency. Ironically though, having tested it to +/- 2 FPS at home, the moment I got to the site, it varied wildly on the chrono. I suspect it may have just been the first few round in the magazine giving me trouble. Sadly the magwell was too narrow to fit an M4's hi-cap / flash mag internals. I think for future long rifles I'll look at integrating existing magazines into a shell. Small video after optimising the pre-cocking, 7.4v 35C, stock LCT motor and gears. VID_20241029_174825558.mp4 Here's the basic 2 point sling with fast adjustment that I put together. Credit for the design goes to Thrifty Operator on youtube. I'm also working on a new helmet, based on the Halo 3 Marine, specifically the action figure version as it has a sleeker UA plate on the front. I made it detachable as I'd never seen this done before. The helmet looks very much like some of the concept art helmets without it. I've also included a built in 5015 fan in the peak that will hopefully blow air into my glasses. Worst case scenario it becomes a head cooler if I can't duct it efficiently. Unfortunately I was tempted into attempting to print it in plain ABS. I had a spool sitting around that needed using for something. I've never printed anything in plain ABS, only improved, and was not prepared for it. Sadly there was much splitting and warping, and this caused the print of the back to fail near the end. I had to graft on a freshly printed part using ABS sheet mixed into a gloop with acetone. I'm looking at the D30 stealth helmet padding when I can affort it in combination with EVA foam placed where needed to bulk up. It's a little pricy, but worth it for the protection, durability and comfort. See, experience of printing ABS (left), experience of printing PLA super tough (right). Note the many patches of smeared ABS gloop to fill the cracks and bond the two disparate halves together. It'll be a (not so fun) experience sanding into to a smooth finish. That is at least one strength of ABS, the ability to repair and patch it together with its liquid counterpart. Very advanced and certainly not janky method of holding the back of the helmet on while the ABS gloop dried. Trust me I'm an engineer. The ABS as it starts to melt (took a while). PWM circuitboard and battery (yellow) Fan intake at the front of the peak, TPU rubber fan duct (interchangeable. I'm still scrounging up money for a HPA unit, but I'm hoping to have a Scalar Seraph in hand by early next year for building the HPA SMG and MA5. In the meantime, working on this helmet and stuff to sell like my Halo medkits, biofoam etc to fund more projects. The Halo Reach M73 concept art LMG is something I'd also like to pursue. Take care, thanks for reading. 👋

Agree it should always be mentioned, especially if it's a pricey gun, even if it's had a good spray job over the two-tone, at some point somethings likely to rub, such as a holster, & the offending neon's gonna peek through🤮

Got my hands on a WELL WE-10-1 today (SIG MCX RATTLER), absolutely in love with the thing. For £180 it might just dethrone the DE UTR as the go-to choice for an awesome polymer bodied but extremely capable ready OOTB gun, thing is absolutely stonking on 11.1v (7.4v and 9.9v don't work properly though lol) Absolutely pisses & shits all over the 'Sig Air' VFC if you can get over the polymer body, and considering how nice it shoots I'm sure you can.

Former two toned guns should definitely be mentioned in the advert. Easy enough to change an advert title to include two tone when an IF; I do change adverts titles to include two tone when an obvious IF but much harder to spot (and police) one that has had the bright paint stripped or painted over. At one point had considered whether it was worth creating a whole new sub-forum category in the Classifieds for Two-Tone (IF) guns, to separate them out from genuine RIFs.

I reckon it should be disclosed regardless of the cost, two tones are less desirable than a rif whether the paint has been removed or covered up. If they sold to someone else then you've dodged a bull... BB.

Not a new pew but this is the first time I've seen a detailed live fire video.

With the new VFC AK out now, and GHK’s with iffy QC for a while, I think GHK owners who want out will have to take a bath.

Very helpful new member, very informative first post, but probably copy & pasted from somewhere else as he's in Nigeria, not exactly known for its airsoft community 😏 👋

And I'm not even joking. "POW POW POW". Age verification required to see if Florida Man called the hit or not. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHOYdRu5n7Q (I assume this is a training reflex from calling "shots" from a dayglo mock-Glock, but it would be hilarious if he's a CQB airsofter)

£1300, leaky mags, no buyer protection and wants you to collect it too.

It would annoy me too. If they didn't mention that what else have they "forgotten" to tell?

I’d like to know before paying, but have successfully removed paint from a couple of replicas without leaving any traces or damage before. Especially where trademarks are adding to a gnus value or desirability. I feel it being two toned also knocks the value down a touch more as there could be the possibility of damage to the original whilst removing it. (I’d never paint over the already applied two tone, just gonna look poop)

Anyone else interested in who two-tones a £400 pistol? But yes, it should always be mentioned. I picked up an ex-2T TM FNX from a shop. Didn't read it the description until after i bought it (it was a cracking price so no biggie) and from a distance you can't see any blue, but close up you can. Not enough to bug me, but if i was selling it or buying it without mentioning it, it would be an issue.

Hello Hello, I remembered I had an account here and asked some questions some time ago related to these projects. I figured I'd do a bit of a project dump on what I've been up to. I'll use this thread for future additions, as I certainly have more planned as funds allow. The BR-55 and M7 SMG are near completion and are fully functional. Both need a few tweaks and some internal parts. I'd stopped both projects until January this year, and started both from scratch with the aid of my new printer, a Prusa XL (single head for now). Due to ill health, I had to stop work on the BR, having completed a lot of but not all of the physical aspects, and instead directed my attention to the design work for the M7. The M7 requires a lot less metal work (only cutting some rods and drilling about 4 holes in a 3x12 stainless bar, and a couple in the alu barrel mounting). Thus both are being worked on in parallel. I'm currently in the process of refining a few things. Needless to say, neither project has been particularly cheap. Credit to Kingdom of Airsoft and Perun for the original idea to use the ETU++ as a "DIY" solution. The BR-55 A bit of a mix of The Halo 2, 3, and H2A designs, I went for a mix of aspects due to preference, and deepened the stock to allow fitment of a V3 gearbox. It weighs around 4.5KG unloaded, and is reinforced with 15mm stainless box section within the upper, and 12x3 stainless bar running down either side of the stock. There are various bits of metal rod where needed. Surprisingly it's pretty well balanced on the (very comfy) grip, and will stand on the grip alone unsupported. It's printed very solidly in eSun's PLA super tough. It feels very sturdy and there are no squeaks or wobbles. (old video where it's basically being held together by me, you can also see my H2A Marine helmet). 1:1 to the "real" size. Guts: It uses a perun ETU++ hooked up to various microswitches for operation, and has a proper 3 position selector with a mechanical safety. This means no bullpup trigger bar and a snappy trigger. The round counter is fully operational, utilising Tachyon's solution with a custom graphics pack and modified sensor layout, removing the need for a "sock" on the end of the barrel. The round counter is reset by pulling back the charging handle. Manually (very, very carefully, I swear) removed the sensor and emitter from the board, applied heatshrink, and superglued to a saddle that straddles the hole I drilled in the barrel. Also contains compass and clock. Quite useful for timed games. The gearbox is a V3 LCT AK, with an airsoft-pro G36 chamber and 450 something-mm ZCI barrel. Sadly the ML bucking I used (60' macaron) has given me some issues, and will not lift a .25 without dropping 70+ FPS. Having attempted the usual fixes and various nubs, I'm at a loss. I have a psionic Tho-R on the way for both the SMG and BR, so touch wood that'll be an improvement. The airsoft pro chamber is nice in that it bolts directly to the gearbox, removing that as a variable for air leakage. The battery compartment is in the foregrip, with an AK dust cover style button for easy access and removal. The space is sizeable, and I can't see much trouble fitting at least a 3000mah 11.1v in there (if only I had one). I intend to include a small toolkit. The magazines are fully custom, with ML superfeed springs (hello midcap syndrome). Not perfect, but I'm working on improvements. Thanks to Igniz for some pointers on dimensions. I intend to try integrating AR mag hi-cap guts at some point for a skirmish mag. The mag release is situated in front of the mag well, and gives a nice satisfying click on seating. The well is intentionally loose for the addition of velcro, giving a secure fit. These feed into a modular feed block that interfaces between the chamber and magazine. I've allowed provision for a built in tracer and a mechanism to prevent BBs from dropping. Takedown: Basic takedown is very simple and tool-less. It involves removing the foregrip, removing a detent pin from in front of the trigger guard, then sliding the upper forward out of the 1/3 rifle length grooves. The braided battery cable should slide free easily. Removing the gearbox requires removing the hop from the gearbox, pulling the squished wires out, unscrewing 5 bolts on the back, and feeding it out through the open hole in the back of the stock, followed by disconnecting the deans and microswitch cable. Somehow both better and worse than the AUG. The pistol grip is held in by 6 M4 bolts and I doubt that'll ever go anywhere. Printed and oriented for maximum strength. The entire upper takes down into sections from around the 15mm tube. Other nifty details and gaffes: -There are 6 QD sling points, 2 rear, front and mid (in front of the receiver). -Rubber (TPU) butt pad and coating for the cheek rest. -The cheek rest is too far forward to comfortably use. Game design moment. -The rail is too far forward for most magnified optic's eye relief to be useful. You can however lift the stock over your shoulder to get close enough. -I neglected to put a ledge on the front of the trigger guard, which the fire select detent mechanism attached to. This meant if you put pressure on the trigger guard (say with your hand), it would move the fire select lever up and down. This has been rectified quite easily, if a little wastefully. -I dropped the whole lower receiver onto a concrete corner from several feet while carrying it to the food dehydrator to cure, after the final coat. I nearly screamed in anguish. Thankfully, PLA-ST is very tough, and it sustained only a minor dent on an edge. This is the first battle damage. Remarkable material for being so cheap and easy to print. -I originally intended the design to keep the hop up chamber with the upper upon disassembly. I found that no matter the spring used, firing would cause the hop up to move forward 5mm with every shot. I suspect this has something to do with the anti double feed mechanism it has. It's now fixed to the gearbox, and is somewhat delicate when unsupported by the upper, hanging by only a grub screw. At some point I'll look at fixing it proper to the lower. -The magazines had to be angled forward to be in an optimal position to feed. -I didn't think my power wiring through very well, and it's a bit of a rat's nest. The excess power wires that give sufficient length for the gearbox to be removed have to be stuffed into a hole to keep them out of the way. Not an easy prospect with thickly insulated 14awg wires. Needs improvement. -The muzzle flash is printed and currently just friction fits on the barrel. I've the means but not the expertise to use a lathe to cut a thread into it. When that happens, I intend to buy Foundry's alu flash hider. -The painting was a bit of a nightmare, and contained a lot of stops, starts and bad farts . Accidentally wiping off paint with unintentionally strong spirits, gray overspray onto black, clear clouding, dropping final piece onto concrete... etc. -The detail lines on the stock were so shallow, sanding and spray putty almost removed them in places. Without thinking I set to with a knife, butchering some grooves into several hundred hours of work. -Much like an old warplane being restored with a few bolts or a nameplate being the "same plane", the foregrip was the only part that made its way over from the original project. Considering the detail lines were so small that they didn't even print, I'm kind of wishing I hadn't. I'd say the (almost) end result is worth it though. M7 SMG Ah, the first proper CAD project I ever worked on, and the first airsoft gun I ever attempted. Frankly, the original I started 5-6 years ago was unsalvageable. Looked pretty, but holy moly, what a mess. It's not wasted though, you learn things. I have to say I'm quite happy with how this one turned out. Far less faff than the BR-55, almost everything worked as intended without much trouble. Printed in much the same fashion and material, but a fair sight simpler. (please excuse the mess, Prusa XL enclosed in the background) The guts: JG Vz.61 AEP innards form the working part of this pew pew. Regrettably, AEP performance isn't always the best, and repairing broken ones can be iffy. You can imagine my disappointment when I finally finished a gun that's been 5-6 years in the making, and it has an effective range of 15 feet. The stock bucking applies no backspin at all. Thankfully everything else works, and I have a Psionic Tho-R on the way to help remedy that. The gearbox unfortunately had an incident where the cut-off switch fell off internally, as evidently no thread lock was applied at manufacture. Awaiting a fine torx set to get at it. The feed route is an interesting one, given it goes around 4 bends and finally ends up vertical. Works just fine though apparently. (Note it's a little more noisy than it would be, as there's no barrel or hop unit, or BB being fired) VID_20240811_210834390.mp4 As a salve for the disappointment that may be gripping some of you upon hearing the acronym "A-E-P", this gun's perfectly sized for a P* F2, and would require minimal design changes to adapt it for such. This gun also uses the Perun ETU++, and this time with some wire management (woo). I've got a very satisfying clicky electronic safety that uses magnets as detents, as I had no room to integrate a mechanical safety in the linear trigger. It's very ergonomic and easy to toggle with the trigger finger within the trigger guard. The ETU was intended for this project originally as a way of getting around the lack of semi cut off present on CMG gearboxes (CQB gun with no semi is as useful as a max joule sniper in CQB), but proved perfect for bullpups. The fire selector isn't in the most ideal of locations (under the magazine well), but it can be easily toggled with the off hand. The battery compartment is in the grip, and a cap comes off with the push of a button at the back. It can hold standard sized lipo batteries, preferably short ~1200mah 7.4v. I'm very pleased with the magazine seating / locking mechanism. It was a problem with the original. This time there's a hook very securely mounted to the back of the receiver. As you slide the magazine forward onto the tray, the hook falls into a groove in the magazine, and as the fore of the magazine seats into the mag well, the hook locks the magazine in the X axis as the mag catch locks it in the Y. You can jerk the gun around by the magazine only without play. Nice click too. Both the stock and foregrip change position. The stock extends by around 95mm, and locks securely with a 5mm stainless pin into a 12x3 stainless bar. The foregrip also locks with a metal pin, but into ABS+. It has no side to side play, but has a little forward and back play when deployed. I've decided it's negligible given it's minor and doesn't make a noise. The ejection port / charging handle also works smoothly, though it's not for thick or gloved fingers. The top iron sights are removable, to be replaced with a pic rail. Side and bottom rails can also be added. Takedown: A little more tool intensive than the BR-55 for basic takedown. 2 bolts allow the removal of the upper "cap", 6 more for the inner "block" which houses the hop up chamber, feed block and outer barrel. This slides forward off the nozzle and up. This allows the gearbox, pressured down by the upper cap, to be removed. Nifty details and gaffes: -The stock detent spring has been a source of frustration and fiddling. I've spent some time trying to get the spring mounted onto the pin block. To be improved. -The stock pad is TPU with ABS encased within to mount the 2 QD fittings (designed for single point slings only, unless the front is wrapped with something). TPU doesn't deal with overhangs well, and the quality leaves something to be desired. I'm hoping a second head for the XL will solve this problem (multi-material integration). -The original Omron SS-5 switch I bought for the trigger sounded *exactly* like a computer mouse. I couldn't stand this and instead bought some of the XSS-5 copies that actually feel more solid and sound better. -Surprisingly ergonomic, though the grip is less comfy than the BR. I didn't want to sacrifice the aesthetic too much. The sights are useful for airsoft even if you can only really look down them when holding the gun out like a pistol. You can still align them while shouldered. Adequate for lobbing small plastic balls at other nerds. -The suppressor seems a little pointless for an electric gun, but I'll likely do it anyway at some point. It's very janky and intended to use an olight key ring torch with a threaded "presser" on the back to turn it on. I'd rather do it when I can thread the barrel. It'd also be more useful for a HPA version. Man I love the aesthetic of this thing. Drawing a blank here, nothing much went wrong. I'd hate you less for wanting me to make you one of these. That's about it for now. You may have noticed a new helmet in one of the pics, with built in forehead / glasses fan. Future projects will be the HPA SMG when I'm not poor (gee I wonder where the money went), Mk23 M6C Socom, and a HPA MA5B. We don't talk about the WE tech Glock I turned into a magnum. Needless to say I don't like WEtech anymore. I'd love to daytona a Halo replica, but alas, money. Ask away, just be aware I'm a little closed on specific details as I do plan to make a little money on these. Cheers for reading.

Mmm managed to locate a secret grub screw below the sling mount. Seems to have worked it’s held on by sheer determination. Thanks

Quick update, I fixed the AEP gearbox and cleaned the factory earwax grease out. I don't hold much appreciation for the engineer that designed the gearbox, as it was quite a nightmare to reassemble. With a fully charged 7.4v and barrel installed, I think it sounds rather nice for an AEP. A quick shooting test gave me an indication that it should give surprisingly decent range with 0.25 or 0.28 BBs. I suspect the soft foam "nub" is causing inconsistent hop to be applied, so I'll be modifying the arm to accept an omega or H-nub tomorrow. Hoping it's not an air-seal problem. VID_20240905_203238823.mp4

What’s the feeling about adverts not mentioning that a gun was originally two toned, I ask as I offered on a pistol yesterday, offer accepted and then told, by the way, this was a two toned pistol, removed apart from a few specks of blue paint, and you should be able to remove them. Expensive pistol by the way £400 + In my opinion it should be in the advert. To rub salt into the wounds, the seller did the dirty on me and sold to someone else after we agreed a price he wanted. Disappointing.

Now THAT I can help with & yes it's my TM not the Well... FYI the Well stock fits the TM but only has one adjustment setting.

Ian at forgotten weapons also has a good break down, but I think Larry Vickers is the first one who actually shows it firing when he went to Russia, he also fires the AEK971 too and compares them If I remember correctly.

I appreciate the seller may have been burned by other people but Christ alive, why project that bitterness on to prospective buyers?

Looking at his other ads I think his MO is to want stupid money

Breaks the first rule of airsoft, I doubt the owner calls his hits either.

Reporting back for Duty from NI 🤠 After a hiatus of about 10 years, I can firmly say I have went down the rabbit hole again, It was going to happen at one stage or another 😆 No longer a broke student and now with some adult money in my pocket, I can already sense the poor financial decisions being made. "War Never Changes" I would have been pretty regular at SG1 site and Predator Airsoft, amongst other sites, I was fairly active on some of the forums back in the day as well. Intending on focusing more on the CQB side of things but I'm sure it'll tail spin out of control momentarily. (Any NI users on this forum please fire suggestions for sites! 😎) Thanks for having me back! 😁

Ahoy and welcome back.

Do you need the 24mm thread? I've bought an Acetech module to fit inside a G3 flash hider that i'm going to make. If it works, i can make you an AK one with a suitable thread.

Welcome back. For sites have a look here. https://playairsoft.uk/map

Came here to post this one.

Tactree doing 25% off across the store

Yeah, painting over two tone will result in loss of detail in milled or sharp edged moulded parts, like slide serrations etc

Glad I'm not the only one! For example with TM's, the slide is black plastic but someone sprays black over the blue paint rather than remove it 🤦‍♂️

Try the new battery; however, it looks like your trigger is not always resetting properly in semi. I suspect it is some sort of trigger trolley/trigger interface/COL issue; it might be that the trigger is not engaging with the trigger trolley properly due to wear on one or both or that the COL is engaging badly with the trigger trolley. If the battery does not do the trick, you are going to have to open the gearbox up.

After a recent game day, I realised I needed something (semi) reliable for the winter months and also had an AK shaped hole in my life. Looking forward to running this for the first time this weekend.

Arrived today after enough fucking around with Parcelforce being useless as usual - I've done a complete 180 on the MPX style stock as suprisingly I absolutely love it! Got stuck right in & now it looks awesome, a little adjustment of the motor height to align it properly and it's now absolutely singing on 11.1v (fair warning, 7.4v & 9.9v aren't enough to drive the mosfet and will cause semi to become a three shot inconsistent burst and it sounds very unhappy) Absolutely made up with it. Massive thanks to everybody in this thread for putting me onto this thing & and I can't wait to field it! (after I get some batteries that fit the PEQ lol)

I'd rather this didn't progress any further down this slippery slope, there are enough trolls on the internet without us making it worse. M1LAN I apologise for my comment. For what it's worth, the range of AR style of GBBR's, AEG's & accessories are endless, my own preference is for realistic military clones (as the pic shows), almost every pic I've seen with military rifles have some kind of addition/accessory whether it's unit specific or an individuals preference. If you want your AR to have a realistic feel & kick then GBBR fills that niche, however if you're a regular player or intend to be one then I'd suggest an AEG with NGRS, gas is fiddly & a pain in the arse (certainly more work than I'm willing to do on a regular basis) especially in our cold UK weather. There are many versions or AR's to consider and pretty much every one can be accessorised & updated as your want or need progresses, out of the AR's I have, only 1 is stock, many of them were bought from the classifieds & some might have been upgraded internally before I bought them but I don't play much so I prefer a look to performance so I just add the accessories I want & try to make them all different. If you want a milsim type of gameplay then it depends how far down the rabbit hole you want to go, full milsim with a GBBR will require many expensive mags as they hold limited ammo, an AEG with the same milsim feel will be a fraction of the cost, using midcap mags will give you a realistic reload feel as you'll need more mags (which are much cheaper). If you're determined to go down the GBBR route, I love my WE XM177 but I've been lucky enough to find second hand mags to allow me to spray & pray or pick my shots but I've yet to have a full game without some kind of issue either small or catastophic & the mags weigh a tonne.

My latest G19. Fitted the TTI hop unit which has produced some great results in every glock I’ve fitted it to. Onto the next one 😅 going to try a gen4 next.

Of all the guns to steal he chose the ugliest. Suppose it suits him, the ugly fucker.

Bought a bare bones Magpul PTS Masada for a super fair price, always loved it.

Top - air gun (based on the semi-only selector) middle - firearm (H&K logo on the folding stock) bottom - airsoft (process of elimination) actually - just spotted the bottom one too only has semi. But loads of white text safety blurb printed on both the top and bottom options, so those must be the more dangerous ones. Oh, wait, hang on....

This is epic 🤣👌🏼 looking forward to seeing how this develops 🙌🏼

went to Red Alert's boot saleamathingy today and picked up a bit of a bargain. It's a PTS Masada for £80.