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i just spill mine all over the floor.

Sorted found an adaptor online

1 - LandWarrior, AirsoftWorld, Zero One, Pro Airsoft, Fire Support, Surplus Store, JD Airsoft, AirSoft Zone, PatrolBase none of the above have " BB " in them so that is always a good sign 2 - 48yrs old and I also work nights though normal week patterns but done this for last 20+ years There are places that run mid-week evening games though - might help if enlighten us to your location 3 - Point I was making is that you don't HAVE TO spend more money to get a good decent gun. But it is your money and your gun so yes spend & buy whatever you like A summary rather than make a #4 point.... You have spent £800+ on stuff but not actually skirmished yet ? A bit of a spree to just shoot a few targets and have something nice in a wall collection But like I said it is your money so who am I to judge - which I wasn't tbh I was actually offering some advice for next time..... No I am not an expert - I've only been into this for just over a year - March '14 to be exact but bought loads of crap myself and won't even list my collection where I have become so hooked and it has become my latest obsession, I'm not just obsessed but told sometimes I'm posessed by my new hobbies I enjoy the mechanical side of it - perhaps more than actually getting out there as often as I should and there is no way I'd ever get round to using all my stuff myself - much like a woman's shoe/bag collection Everybody has their own take or views on here, some higher end or lower end Some more serious others just a mess about with toy guns letting off steam Some are fantastic players - some with tactical first hand experience - others ex COD players getting off their ar$es Haven't a clue where I fit in in all this, I'd say I'm unique though most just call me odd but this ain't about me, hopefully your M14 is going to feed better now that was the real issue I haven't got one like I said but hope your gun is sorted or running better now

I'll say the obvious too because many don't: Follow the instructions on the can. The manufacturers know their paint better than anyone, and holding it too close, too far, not shaking it, not cleaning the head, not leaving it long enough to dry or not properly preparing the surface etc. all results in a worse finish; all of these things are covered on the back of the can.

When painting guns I just put screwed up newspaper in the magwell and the end of the barrel and crack on. The gearbox is pretty well sealed up and the hop unit can't get paint inside it if you seal the magwell and barrel. Complete disassembly and taking gearboxes out etc is massive overkill.

Jambwow - the obe wan Kenobi of Jedi bull$hit 'May the farce be with you my young pisstaker' 'The farce is strong in this one'

Hope you wipe it up after.

No it would take thin shine off my PDI and thats sacrilege never mind what it would so to my scu.

Im actually tempted to get something like a b500a1 and rebuild the internals with high end parts. Would be funny to see peoples face when you out shoot there gucci guns with a justbbguns special.

ooooooh ya cow..... tell ya what when your Krytac breaks I lend you my B500A1 if I had just one good higher end gun to hand people would really see how bad I suck at this malarky

I'd recommend an aimpoint or eotech with a flip-to-side magnifier. That way, you can choose when you want some magnification.

nah piss in the bottle first gets rid of all the sticky residue 😀

yeah I found the funnels or some spouts were crap and my fingers and a bit of care worked best had a few like 500 or 1k bottle with poxy spouts that dribble half a dozen, clog, shakey shakey, oh ffs.... might try the robinsons bottle maybe - them fruit shoot ones but will make sure they are empty & clean etc.... but my fingers or hand cupped around mags to guide the pouring works well enough most of time

Don't them sticky wet bb's clog up in ya barrel ??? soz just being a bell-end as per usual

Assuming it's the same as a Marui, the top cover is held on with a clip so is easily removed. The butt stock should just be held on with a couple of screws. You can get the receiver out of the stock by swinging the trigger guard in the right direction, the receiver will just pull out of the stock - I don't think it needs any special tools (but been a while since I stripped mine!). Here's a video guide. It's not like you need to do anything difficult like take the gearbox apart Then just worry about taping up the bits round the barrel that you want to spray.

Well I'm in the same boat, used fairy power spray but as the gun had been sprayed green, then black then green again, the power spray didn't really do much. So my plans are to sand down the parts, primer them and then a couple of coats of black and then a final clear lacquer to stop chipping etc. prep work is the most important part tho, don't just do a quick sanding, take your time and do a proper job.

Remove what you can is best advice rather than mask up as Happy said.... decide if to strip paint with Fairy Power Spray but this doesn't remove thick multiple coats of 2-tone as easily as some say often it will need a good overnight soaking and toothbrush away - repeat etc..... Time consuming and still might not get every single spec off Or you could respray the parts but maybe sand off or at least key the surface prior to a couple of coats of Krylon Plastic parts I think Plastikote is perhaps a little better than Krylon but not sprayed metal stuff so can't say for sure I have said WTF and just went nuts sanding away a thick blue coat off a plastic stock & grip to reveal a plastic wood effect underneath was as smooth as a baby's ar$e - still time consuming but yes it did have a sort of mahogany effect on it when done the ideal sultion might be a bit of Fairy Power, brush off the worst, quick sanding to take off any large specs left in exposed areas then spray up a good few thin coats to avoid runs etc.... That way the paint will adhere well, plus if it does wear off or become battleworn there is less chance of blue showing through which always looks f*cking horrid imho That is my take on it and probably what I would consider to make a nice job it time consuming but I am a bit of perfectionist sometimes my own worst critic Have a think and maybe test a small area to see how you might wanna go

Well, of course, i'm not shying away from the fact I'm fairly new to airsoft, but what would help me learn more is actual advice given by (To be fair, a fair few in this thread, like ImTriggerHappy and others) rather than the condescending "Omg you're a noob" post. Not direscted at you btw, just in general. Because everyone who starts in the sort of thing knows the best places to buy, best brand of bbs, best weight etc from the go don't they? 1 - As a few have said this site isnt the best, I won't use them anymore, care to give me other options? 2 - Well done, yes i'm 25 in a few days, as I've stated many times, I'm still new to airsoft, I want to go to public games in the future and get more into it, hell, overall I've spent around £800 already on various different things related to airsoft. Due to my shift pattern it isnt easy for me to arrange going to skirmishes just yet, but I intend to. Paint isnt a problem for me, my M4 was fully black and metal apart from the stock and grip, which I replaced. My M14 just needs the barrell and top repainted, not a huge deal. 3 - Not quite sure what point you're trying to make here? I bought this gun after watching countless videos on the same exact gun I bought, loved the look and style, the cocking action sounds awesome and authentic, and always just loved retro style guns. It's probably way too powerful (Indoor places have limits dont they? This averaged around 400fps on a video I saw) And far too heavy to use for most games, might be good to use for an outdoor as a DMR with a scope or something, but hey, bought it because it looks lovely, and I just like collecting guns to be honest. Anyways, cheers for all the helpful advice in this thread guys, bought some blasters as some suggested.

New G&G has the trigger module - not classic old skool trigger n switch basically it is a module with micro switch & trigger housed as one module All sounds great but like cars - gone are days you replace that bit or spring/clip thingy nope it is a whole new module or you gotta buy spares from main dealers mosfet's haven't been G&G's strong point in the past but hopefully they have improved the donkey work is done with the fet wired in for you & the new CM receiver looks lovely and the rear stock looks damn nice for crane stock too However it is still a polymer CM @ £185 and when you approach £200 there are other guns to consider £150 30th GC16 is excellent value for money from airsoft world, you should be able to buy the kong wizard for £10 plop it in as a plug n play module for the moment on 7.4v lipo, then you or get a techy to hard wire it in when you service or upgrade a few bits inside later on.... (the Kong is a FULL £35 mosfet mofo unlike avacado burst wizard) £160 - full metal M4 what ever burst bollox you want without bespoke modern trigger crap But yes the CM SR range looks nice - just that I'm old skool Your money - your gun, Krytac everybody is rating them as good step up from starter guns not got one yet - so can't say.... but good to see a new gun getting lots of good reviews - assures you to know the extra cash is well spent

As long as you have done AoE she will be fine if you don't and you start taking the pi$$ that initial pick up tooth just snaps off the back very very very quickly well twice on 9.9v life & 11.1v it happened before the aoe penny dropped OOOOOoooooohhhhhhh is that why they keep going on about it yup learning by my many many numerous mistakes - still learning btw you got new motor in there, see what she is shooting at ROF wise and decide how fast you go the gears if battery can cycle them will give you 36% max increase the 11.1v will give you up to 50% increase on stock gears atm..... so based upon a bit of common sense maths work out your requested rof and decide how fast n how you get there sir

I throw my two pennies in: ICS: cant't say, i never owned an ICS through my friend does and hes had nothing but trouble especially with that split gearbox, all it allows you to do it quick change the spring and check the AOE but you can do that with; Krytac CRB: Good gun out of the box (mine is still in its box, havn't bout a case for it yet), well made, built in MOSFET (though its only a single signal wire version), quick change spring etc. My only gripes are the pistol grip looks like it comes from an LPEG so change that, the flash hider is made from plastic and is glued on. G&G CM16: Good gun for starters though the receiver is made from plastic unlike the other two which are metal (i am assuming for the ICS) however the gearbox is made the same as G&Gs GT Advanced range so already reinforced and radius'ed with decent gears and motor. It will be enough to get you by. GHK A5: i know nothing about this one So if i were you: Money no object = get the Krytac Money is an object = Get the G&G I will also throw a fast ball and say have you considered the G&G TR4-18 series? I think its slightly cheaper than the Krytac, has a built in double signal wire MOSFET (IMO much better as motor wires completely bypasses the trigger contacts), has a nice if useless pneumatic blowback feature, Given the choice i would probably choose my TR4-18 over my Krytac CRB any day. Anyways heres a review video i made of the Krytac CRB:

Leave those alone ffs Expensive $hit mags You wanna consider these mofos http://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/armalite-140rd-m4-mid-caps-box-set-10-grey-m16-magazine-10476-p.asp Order a nut or bolt and you get 10% off order plus shipping is free - my favourite

"Put the mag in, and a couple of taps never hurt anyone" One of the Marshalls favourite quotes when picking up hire gear at the mall

'Nam loadout gets better and better with this M79 Grenade Launcher! Many thanks to airsofter766 - great guy to deal with.

This has just turned up, for my M14 EBR