Sitting Duck

Well to me as I play for giggles and not take it too seriously As I'm a sad git who spends way too much on crappy guns Plus running around out of shape - puffing n panting steamed up face protection, totally knackered..... I propose we just call it: SWEAT - yuk but hear me out as it does kinda fit..... Saddo's With Expensive Air Toys not exactly a great promotion to get more female players interested but kinda does paint a true-ish picture of us lot

Football is football ffs Yanks tried to mess it up with needing soccer No what yanks call football is padded rugby Wtf kick up n down pitch - football not soccer American football is padded rugby not football And a choccy bar is Marathon not Snickers Opal Fruits not Starburst Jif not Cif Some things should be left alone as is Think coco pops got changed but in a rare u-turn They decided to change it back to coco pops I just say I'm going shooting Saturday (Hopefully I don't get pounced on leaving the house)

Me personally I don't think the G&P m120 is that wonderful, sp00n didn't rate his and I have the Big Dragon clone or unbranded one and tbh not much better than a stock ferrite well it is a ferrite motor... If you are gonna buy a new motor get at least a neodym maybe the steady m140 or ak2m4 had a cheap zci "balanced" motor (both m140 and zci balanced 16tpi or something they both neodym) SHS blue, if that is the 3 steel teeth they are very very light but think the plastic is a tad too soft. Ripped one in an afternoon's spraying @ 30rps on son's 416. Lasted the afternoon but crapped out the next day in garden The gun I mean not my son, he is kind of house trained It might be OK for 20rps but I ain't that impressed with them just think they are too soft, bloody light piston. I like the grey ACM's 3 n 7 steel teeth piston at TWG atm, the 3 steel grey one went in there and lasted 2 full mental days and reckon 8k in total hosed through it so far Well that is just my take on stuff I use or have used in past

Nope - I stick to about £150 guns atm some BOT SRL G&G's at about £170 have fet's even 3 round burst mosfet's You don't HAVE to have a fet if it gun is still stock But me personally if I was opening a box to tweak it a little I'd fit a basic MOSFET in there anyway and unleash juicy hell if I want to and not have worry about arcing Depends if you can do the work yourself or take it to somebody, most of this work costs time than money really if you wanna do it as best as you can

soz you got pico ab fet....... the unplug crap was if you had the more expensive mofo Gate fets try a firestorm fet £10 baby mofo non-ab fet, bloody ace with built in thermal fuse get a neodym motor and run on 7.4v and get same if not faster results

semi spamming puts a massive strain on fet & motor if you are firing a lot on semi or muchas short bursts in a long bursty firefight the mofo's will get very very warm (even without Active Braking) Add to that Active Braking stopping the motor through reverse polarity each time then starting again from still and energy required from still and reverse to stop......... You know this yourself as you said...... only wany to test for sure is see if you can plug in a basic fet wired with deans & think the signal contacts might be micro deans anyway - the Gate should just unplug & then plug in a non-AB fet with male/female deans + micro deans test again and she should run cooler under semi burst testing if not then motor/wiring/reshim needs to be looked at dunno if she will over-run much as I dunno what rof/battery you are using - 24/25rps+ and she might start to double cycle I have found What is your normal rof aprox, as if replacing motor with a neodym one you can go from either a 10% to 50% increase in rof depending on motor installed. Again you need to decide if the fet or stock motor is the main issue or if there is a dry box or reshim needed to reduce friction/load on motor.... Yes them grips can get warm but if feeling it getting too warm/hot through ya gloves then it is too warm like you said

OK - you have a few options to consider....... G&G M4, 30th GC16 metal is a favorite and Airsoftworld 2-tone is nice snakeskin New range of G&G M4's look nice bot & srl's come with mosfet's cheaper Raider from Zero One two toned for free or wait and get skirmishing - see M25 airsoft thread or check new players section - where to play, google London airsoft etc.... get ya ukara and buy a RIF M4 Once you got a better budget - actually a good budget M4.... Then you can look at messing with your SRC for a little tweaking - seals/AoE/shimming/ - nothing expensive (actually if/when you service ya SRC gimme a shout as I highly recomend dump the crap sector gear with its thin teeth) if things don't go according to plan - and it probably won't go completely perfectly on your first box - no biggy try n try again to learn on it. - failing that if it goes mega tits up either new box or sell as spares in bits on fleabay/facebook etc.... but the experience you gain on that will greatly help when you work on your G&G IF or RIF you will really appreciate what a decent gun/box that is compared to the jbbg gun and things will go a lot more smoother if you ever get an AK or G36 - yup still common perhaps but you will find the V3 gearbox's a bit easier to work on and test with their seperate motor frame/cage etc.... That SRC isn't complete $hit - still miles better than a B500a1 - and SRC M4 will do anybody proud to start off with just there are some slightly better makes/models out there - but still not a complete foolish or unwise choice just with its 6mm bearings/bushings, the trigger stop post broke in one of mine (happens to a couple of different makes of gun btw) it is worth servicing - just I wouldn't go too nuts with high speed gears/motor etc.... the 2 -part hop can be removed and receiver dremmel'd a bit to take a modern 1 piece hop - but like I said why bother going too mad get shooting - get ukara - and make the next step or 2 steps up, play with src and learn a few things trust me if you get into it and learn from a few failures - you can start to make & improve your middle range gun (that to me is the fun/stress but great feeling when now n then you do make a gun better rather than worse) Well that is just my take on this - maybe one day I might go up to top level stuff but happy as a pig in $hit messing with cheapo stuff whilst I'm very much still learning along the way

Cyma m14' can suffer a crap hop and often need to get returned. They had them on silly offer at gunfire and was tempted to get one for a mofo dmr. But reading up a bit I thought nah I will stick most of my boring run of the mill stuff and cheap to maintain when I break em

Not fair coz of your m14 Cyma's make good M14's too but the hop often breaks and you can't just get it replaced as easy as AK G36 or M4 CYMA AK JG G36 G&G M4 this 3 produce very good excellent value for money guns in their specialist field You buy any non run of the mill gun ballpups for example, F2000, plus some others with bespoke box or hop and it is a gamble and limited places to source replacement bits for it Yes it is nice to have a gun a bit different from the heard But comes with some risks, some are a bit more riskier than others Always look into getting it repaired before you actually buy it. Like a car - jap cars or really cheap cars sound lovely until you get the parts for them. Honda's bikes n cars are never really cheap to maintain compared to other makes Your M14 is a similar example perhaps

Gun should have a cheap metal gearbox, some dragon's have plastic or metal boxes But it is a very basic box the gen 1's These gen 1 SRC's are way behind ICS n G&G's in the £150 range of guns. It isn't that dire, use it, maybe a service but really don't go nuts on it is all I'm saying Step up to the next level or two Either a good new G&G or Krytac M4

To be honest forget upgrading the SRC It has a split 2 piece hop, 6mm plastic bushings, and some boxes and receivers will need a bit of minor modding to go/put in other stuff. The tiny gearbox pin don't align perfectly with some stuff The receiver has the flimsy eyelets that break easily plus other faults I can't be arsed to go into... It is a dated design and way behind today's standards SRC isn't that bad but I wouldn't waste much time/money on it Pretty damn sure is exact same model as we started with From jbbg tossers btw

Yup - never done that before - I do tell great big lies though# even when you are ready & prepared - so you think... it still explodes on ya first time or two - open box in carrier bag (helps to prevent you searching hands n knees for that tiny spring later)

you ain't wasted much time stateside annoying thing is bet they were a lot cheaper over there than this side of pond nice collection - ready for most sites it seems

wtf is this - painting by numbers - AR latch - the spring to be exact had one break in a cm18 when pushing her on 11.1v oops tell a lie it was the latch itself that cracked but spring was like a pube element/shs ar latch n spring will sort it but you need to investigate fps drop upload to imgur and copy/paste link I love the pdf title - CM 16 Gear Box EXPLODE - yup often they do just that opening them first time around mr cm18 clonked and then the AR didn't work at all really, and piston kept rolling back if slightly compressed thought it was a mangle pubic hair spring but as I removed it - the latch just cracked in two also only had this once so unless a bad batch or bad luck - hasn't happened since still you have pi$$ poor seals or fps though - but yup could of played a part in gearbox lockup "might" be other issues related so remove spring and spring off tappet plate and see how all the bits turn inside if all looks ok the remove cylinder with tappet & piston etc..... close up box - holding by hand is ok for first initial test - spin gears trying to get finger in cylinder window and flick the sector check for major snagging - like a tiny dot of plastic between teeth of gears there will be loads of play - half that amount once closed up which is a proper check you do afterwards DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN SCREWS - I say using a thumb and index finger as tight as you feel you can do it up is plenty using a clenched fist to tighten box will just strip the fine threads on gearbox casing quickly basically you need to ensure nothing is catching/locking up also check wiring - hopefully just the AR caused a jam and no real damage then sort out your seals - not the zoo type bevel should have one thinest shim on top or nowt if using thick bushings (this is a rough guideline only but so many shim it too low and tbh you have to use thin bearings and no shim to shim too high imho) read up ffs on shimming - you may not master it for a long while - I'm still far from what I call pretty good at it compare to real techy's but you will understand the basics of spacing/stacking them gears to get it nigh on as best as possible there is loads of crap to check and a few replacement bits check how much play is in the bronzey bushings - if s/hand there could be a bit of play by now in the holes where gear shafts run so replacements "may" need to be considered if excess movement. replacing these will deffo through out the shimming so you gotta understand it all a bit then look at them seals n stuff - clean up dirty gunky grease - bit of new lithium grease on gears/bushings/shafts silicone grease on piston's o-ring once sorted with new one etc...... take your time and try not to lose any tiny springs n such few dry runs closing up box with out spring - then hopefully she will be sorted soon to put all back together you did keep them bits safe and take a few pics btw...

Suppose you have a lot of CAT BURGLARS then - lol ok I'll get me coat - wtf - some bastid's nicked me coat

Blimey - did I just type all that crap - probably scared the poor sod off now he thinks - yeah right am I gonna read all that $hit - I'll just get a new gun

sounds like one of my first SRC's i "tried" to tinker with - lol tinkering with guns - yeah bit of a learning curve that one - still learning btw like us all to service a gun is actually really cheap unless major failures but still not end of world (at worse a new gearbox - £40-ish) but often like was said: spring - £5, shs m100 or element m105 seals - not the ocean/zoo kind - they are tricky to maintain piston o-rings - ebay# 271015542147 - very expensive, will have to save up a couple of quid to buy some more soon AoE neoprene pads - yes sorbothane is best but for most low to medium build guns neoprene will suffice - ebay # 250981193606 - M4 size (2 usually required to correct AoE - G&G should have removed 2nd tooth so maybe a slight shave/file to reduce slightly 3rd tooth) O-ring M4 nozzle - £5-ish and should be fitted - red shs is a good decent one new M4 or V2 cylinder head £8 aprox give or take a quid or two (can use ptfe tape wrapped around the old head - but me I'd get a double o-ring head and maybe tape if needed for best perfect seal) pack of shims - probably really bollox'd and bevel shimmed too low by previous owner - £4-ish Gears - should be fine, don't try for mega high speed ones unless you upgrade motor - good gears n motor will cost ya £50 aprox plus where do you start & stop - if doing that gear/motor then you gotta fit mosfet & rewire n crap too I'm trying to give you a brief - pah when is anything reply of mine short n brief - lol giving you a basic easy / cheap idea to service & get her back running again to last a while..... Bearing spring guide - better than piston bearings but bearing spring guide is gonna be maybe something to leave for next time with motor/gears/fet options Unless you wanna just go the whole hog - which tbh I'd advise doing it in gradual stages a rough cheap list of bits to service it with, unless gears or tappet plate is bollox'd black stock piston, tappet plate, cylinder will be fine etc...... only other thing as gun was s/hand is maybe get some 8mm bushings/bearings as the bronzey G&G's do wear a little quicker than steel bushings hopefully wiring is ok and motor hasn't burnt out etc... - but that cheap list of bits will do ya proud it is all in the fitting - especially shimming and little grease up - so read up a bit a little time and it is just a like building a kids basic little lego kit though at first when it don't go according to plan - it seems like Death Star or Millennium Falcon mofo (yeah I'd take a gearbox anyday than another christmas/new year wasted of my life doing that f*cking falcon mofo with kids) as long as it is just a normal CM non-blowback gearbox there isn't much inside a normal box really

not got one but "think" there was a magwell spacer thingy to fix some feed issues either it was E&L i think or LCT or something like that might not be anything to do with your problem but just saying there was a thingy I remember seeing ahh seems both E&L & LCT might have this bollox - hence me getting confused & unsure as to which http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152208219-Magwell-spacer-AK.html uhm just ignore this coz Like I said I ain't got one so best wait for a more clever mofo to chime in

Samurai's AR magnet trick works ace - so simple but so damn effective One that sod is behaving itself, the trigger is really the only thing to watch out for and "usually" is ain't as bad as the AR, it does seem to stay put long enough to close the box back up its when you got a mofo spring or both trigger AND the AR latch - that is when the air turns blue - almost black in my house

Nope - reckon I did the AK-12 was a good one at home - lovely jubbly chrono'd, get ready to go out, made my way through safe onto the field.... few test shots as you do - think 6 - 10 max shots and cheap sector gear crunched I went home with the right hump - sod using a spare gun I had in car I just wanted to see wtf has just died - nozzle not moving wasn't a good sign and hinted where it crapped out on me new sector - don't use cheap $hitty spare SRC gears - well not the crappy sector gear spare SHS sector - you can just see the difference straight away - still works but a little too plasticy to use on regular skirmish each week soz for my life story - but I feel your pain when your new toy breaks so very very quickly

it hasn't got a fet in there - 99.9% sure it ain't it is a v3 ak type gearbox & motor frame/cage - call it what you will so it may suffer the usual fussy AK selector issue..... Booligan did a great in depth review/tear down of it and the selector plate looks AK type to me: http://s411.photobucket.com/user/booliganairsoft/media/APS%20UAR/DSC_6075.jpg.html taken from his tear down guide - this is the revised UAR - the very first ones had battery up front thankfully later models were rear wired - my favourite http://www.booliganairsoft.com/2013/03/aps-uar-urban-assault-rifle-aeg.html so me thinks that is where you problem may be - the AK type selector issue doubt if 1k shots the switch burns out coz the space in stock limits mofo battery options nice gun - but mag or magwell issue is another chink in what is nice change from the norm aeg's price has recently jumped from 135 to 150+ euro's at TWG but deffo something up with selector plate or gear mechanism - doubt if its wear but could of just come loose or jumped a tooth - AK users will know what I mean

says 330 to 335 on Z1 & Airsoftworld like most G&G's look on some US sites and it might be smidge over for US market Most G&G's come out at 330 +/- 10fps from UK Retailers if you are ultra paranoid - get the seller to chrono it before you buy and ensure your site limit is within its fps most are 350 max outdoors but some indoor cqb like The Mall - Reading is 328 to 340 absolute max edit just beaten to the US market/sites as they do run a bit higher than UK's site limits Is it a decent aeg - hmmmmmmmm, dunno if I would buy a "regular" looking £300 G&G M4 might go for a 416 type or something else like keymod or other front end Good brand in the starter range of M4's - no question but £250/300 i'd probably look at others - maybe Krytac ??? But then I like the cheaper stuff to mess about with G&G are a good make especially at starter to intermediate level - think most will agree on that £300 could get you a very nice gun but everybody will have their own favourites/choices I'd be inclined to get a 30th for £150 & spend £50 on tweaks doing it myself or a Krytac off the shelf ready to go nutz with if in stock - if I wasn't into messing with stuff

Some motors run warmer than others and everybody has their own definitions of warm to hot etc..... The deans + lipo has made your gun a bit more snappy with motor being supplied with a lot more instant juice it should be fine tbh - you ain't going ultra nutz at all motor getting very warm very quickly could be motor height and/or bevel shimmed too low (or a badly shimmed motor at factory - had one of those cheapo neodym motors getting really hot quick) of course you will feel the motor getting hotter now - but I can't say how hot coz I ain't holding it also shooting 30 quick semi shots will get warmer than 60 on full auto coz motor is working so much harder from still wearing thick gloves or fit a thicker motor grip - lol shooting out on field is different to testing a gun on rapid semi spamming in ya garden. it "should" be ok coz it ain't really going nutz which on an PBB box you shouldn't really be pushing crazy rof imho up to 20rps is maybe the fastest I'd take a PBB box with a stock m100 spring as them boxes can crack a bit more than normal ones if really pushed you can only try it - but it ain't going mental in my book at all - the gun should handle and be lipo ready 25c is moderate - some nutters won't use anything below 40c but 25 is what I use and works well enough for me have a couple of 20c & 30c but 25c is fine and not silly burst rate in my book

that was a simple quick reply from me