Sitting Duck

if you contact ak2m4 on here you both save a couple of quid on the ris (he don't have to pay ebay etc... ) it should all work out quite well

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/28436-m4-10-cnc-freefloat-rail/ save a couple of quid outer barrel - well you "could" just attack the thing with a dremmel cutting off the front sight and grinding away so the barrel will sit inside the ris plop on a £10 suppressor 100x35ish and she should like nice I say 35mm but you might need a 30mm diameter suppressor to fit just inside the ris same gun cheap easy new looking front end - you will have lost front sight but either a cheapo set of flips or other fancy 552 or whatever floats your boat

here's some specs of gun's inner barrels for those unsure of what is what Raider's come as short or long really need to have a medium imho but anyway inner barrel lengths: Raider S = 233mm Raider L = 357mm Carbine is 357mm but a short or light Carbine exists @ 275mm I think CM18's = 275mm inner barrel GC16's = 330mm G26's are 260mm so this sort of 233 to 357 on Raider plus 275 on other guns is why they didn't make a mid Raider ??? SR Range SRS = 205mm SRL = 260mm - not exactly that long SRXL = 330mm 300BOT - 205mm - why is called the friggin 300 then ??? FireHawk is like 120mm The easiest option if you you wanna go up a slightly bit longer is an outer barrel extension normally 2" or 4" - anything inbetween can be hidden inside flash hider or suppressor All I was trying to point out the cost in putting on a metal ris, new outer and still it being a raider you can change and alter what you like but it is still a raider.... It is your gun so do what you want but tbh me thinks you might wanna consider as is or upgrade to CM18 or SRL or something might be easiest option that was all

+1 for G&G starters closely followed by ICS Raider is #1 selling mofo - yes common as muck but good bang for buck

in short be careful about bothering to upgrade the outer barrel n such.... the Raider is like a 3 piece outer barrel but yup you can rip that out.... yes you can put in a slightly longer metal ris if you wish too I presume at some point you will fit a longer inner barrel too so probably £50 for ris and outer maybe just over add in a longer inner barrel - say £20 perhaps - looking at maybe £70 or flog short Raider and buy a CM18 or something like that yes it can be done - just pointing out maybe keep/sell short Raider option

NO - to be placed on ukara database a person must be 18 and skirmish a few times a year..... just the way it is I'm afraid - they your parents can buy/gift you an IF 2-tone if they are not ukara'd or a RIF if THEY are on ukara.....

is this the box that don't work on semi properly ??? so you got hit n miss trigger problems - maybe switch or spring just try n get the thing to just about fire - so you see no bit of piston in window then open/fix box/switch my guess is that a stock gun won't do that if trigger/switch/cut off lever working correctly it is when you get it running real quick you get this on semi... Active Brake mosfet is one thing but another way to reduce over running is higher speed gears n short stroking a higher spring But think your initial problem is your switch/spring is bust - once fixed it won't do this crap so much

11v to 18v but needs a bit of juice to charge batteries quickly than the trickle chargers that use just balance leads (me I find 1.5a to 2.0a is plenty charge rate using a 4amp laptop psu) This might have a 5.5/2.5 plug on it already but if not you should of got the plug to splice into a similar psu http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-Genuine-IBM-Lenovo-ThinkPad-08K8202-Laptop-Charger-72W-Power-Adapter-/400967568152 a bit of amps - say 3.0+ not a 1.0amp, almost anything will do if you know what you are doing checking volts/polarity they sell cheapo chargers from about £6 or £7 on fleabay - but I went with a bit more volts n amps/juice in the middle

Think him & Lozart are waiting for sites to do a Star Wars theme instead of the zombie themed games... I could probably turn up as The Emperor as I look like $hit and an old fart btw

gen b6 from hobbyking - uk site is best (clones are just under £15, genuine are £20 from hobbyking.co.uk - buy from fleabay and you may pay £25 for a clone) clones often are a bit inaccurate so there is a risk of overcharging beyond 4.2v per cell which will damage it Hence unless you are a tight arse like me - pay a little bit more and get a proper Genuine one for about £20 is my advice you can save a few quid on psu if you got a DECENT laptop charger within the range of volts AND amps !!! you can use a laptop charger - 12v to 18v but needs to be a decent amp of at least 3amp to 5amp you should get the 5.5mm/2.5mm jack plug in B6 box to splice it - but only if you know what you are doing other than that buy a 15/16v 5amp psu with 5.5mm/2.5mm plug (posi centre) B6 type charger for about £12

LiPo's are 3.7v cells and can get charged up to an absolute max of 4.2v per cell over this and damage starts to occur LiFe's are 3.3v - put them on a LiPo's max 4.2v and you will overcharge them - not good and risky The B6 has a lipo setting that you adjust voltage from Lipo (3.7v) to LiFe (3.3v) HobbyKing sell GENUINE B6's for about £20 - (get a genuine one than a £15 clone) psu - if you wanted to save a few quid then a decent laptop psu will work: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-IBM-Lenovo-Thinkpad-08K8203-72W-16V-4-5A-Power-AC-Adapter-Laptop-Charger-/400423702601?hash=item5d3b1cd049 BLIMEY - some greedy bastid just bought 57 of them and now these £4:50 IBM / B6 chargers are all gone !!!! Actually it don't matter too much - the psu you need is a 12 to 18v but needs to be a decent amperage The above was a 4.5a 16v, 1 or 2amp is too low - needs to be about 3amp plus up to 5amp max (these chargers can boost charge hence they need some juice) You should get the 5.5mm / 2.5mm dc plug in the box, so can splice this onto a laptop psu or buy a universal laptop psu with a few different connectors like I have done That is if you know what you are doing and have test meter to double check polarity etc... If you are not sure then buy a PROPER B6 psu charger at about £12 or so search loads of lipo / charger posts - I've said loads of crap recently with links n crap so not gonna repeat it all over again n again just don't charge life's on lipo settings !!!! - not wise to overcharger these mofo's

Yeah ok - now try that on our other half's yeah luv, you keep buying shoes, clothes, bags, coz you got no idea about fashion or looking good or the fact you fail to realise you got older and have started to go around the edges a bit so you ain't gonna fit in size 8 no more uhmmm - if you wanna say that to your missus first, then I will follow soon after I have packed my bags For the record I buy all sorts of $hite, not just G&G (that was for my jolly G&G fanboy friend - I still love G&G's btw)

yeah buy loads and still not have a clue what ones you really like Same as cars - get a nice expensive one and it should be a bloomin' nice one - especially for the price you paid (unless its VW Diesel) Or get a cheaper runaround and maybe a nice convertible for the summer or classic car or whatever floats your boat Apples n Oranges scenario - there is no 101% perfect answer as the question is just too vast and then aeg, gbbr, hpa thrown in, give it a stir - call any other makes people have - pure crap and so the debate goes on....... never to be fully resolved or answered TM, Krytac, PolarStar, JBBG - if you like it then that is all that matters

or get it built by a mofo best M4 - wow if there was just one clear winner for price, looks, performance, reliabiliity, sex appeal to women THEN WHY THE HECK DO WE ALL KEEP BUYING ALL SORTS OF GUNS ??? to put it another way - if anybody is happy with their particular gun, then to hell with what others think (reality - us big kids will never be happy & truely content, hence the "ooh that looks nice" problem arises time n time again)

it's fine as it is, you not have to hit 349.9999fps TM's often are about 300-ish but still bad ass mofo's I'd rather have 300fps accuracy than 349.99999 all over the f*cking place give barrel a little clean may help (dirty barrels lose fps) (if you are not sure just clean 85% of barrel length to avoid dirt/contaminating hop bucking) eventually if/when she drops below 300 or it don't seem so great then start to consider options but for now: deans & clean barrel with help

Ahhhh that might have had them weird 21:1 gears in there too. You could of changed to say 16:1 or something but gotta watch for PE on them longer stroke boxes. (Presume it was a longer v2 box like A&K 25's) Anyway it's jacked now so job done

8mm bronzey bushings usually on 99% of them (FireHawk has 8mm bearings for some reason) These softer bronzey bushins do wear so replace with shs bushings over time Gear ratios are "usually" 18:1 - though oddly FireHawk seems to be 21:1 most gearboxes use 18:1 as stock std gears - a few makes may use 16:1 but reckon 85% use 18:1 (some other types like L85's M14's may use 21:1 gears in longer stroke gearboxes but 18:1 is the "norm") Piston is a 16 tooth type - well sometimes referred as a 15 tooth if 2nd tooth is removed/missing for AoE But it is still a 16 tooth piston really coz sector gear has 16 teeth on std aeg gearbox Think the cylinder spec is about 72mm x 23.8mm internal diameter - yup think that is about it I guess screws to open G&G v2's are located on opposite side to a std non blowback box don't know why but G&G put screws underneath on regular v2's - though think blowback's are on top screws 90% will be allen key types - but some are still the odd phillips screws Upgrades...... double o-ring cylinder head o-ring nozzle new piston head - better plastic one cylinder - usually fine unless port is incorrect Correct AoE, sorbo/neoprene pad check seals etc...... grease blah blah blah you have a mosfet fitted anyway - can't say how robust it all is but a fet is there all the same so donkey work is done TBH - leave it as it is for now - you have a fet so you could run on higher juice for a while Then eventually when it NEEDS to, either it needs a service or she wears a bit or something busts.. THEN - re-do the box with tweaks/service/repair etc......... That is my best advice - if it ain't broke.... etc..... Even if you buy another "enhanced" or "upgraded" box it will still most likely need a tweak here n there Quick change spring boxes are nice but on M4's you still gotta remove most stuff to change spring just you haven't got to open box - but still gotta do 90% or removal to get to rear of box (unless you wanna drill out a big dirty hole at back of receiver and need a stock change/adapter) yes on some other guns (APS UAR) the quick change spring works great and 30 sec spring change but not on M4's on a tweaked box you are gonna be looking at £100 aprox for a mofo lonex box a £40/£50 gearbox will be nigh on just a std box and G&G boxes are pretty nice to work on with good compatibility Leave it as is for now, run a bit more juice maybe then say 6 months or so then get her tweaked and serviced a bit, drop in a neo motor and she will be lovely BTW not saying run on 11.1v with a high speed neo motor trying to hit 30rps - that is silly doing that will lead to piston pickup tooth snapping off - coz did that twice at first but a little more juice or maybe a motor on 7.4v getting up near 20rps should be ok for a little while probably replace small tamiya connectors with deans is cheap easy tweak

Bit of rubber - inner tube or something or rubber washer - depending how thick or big the wobble super glue, epoxy JB weld or something ????

yup - smaller basic fet will do if your gun is not double cycling (AB is an option but imho only if your really need it) I doubt if you will be running a blowback ultra quick yup you gotta open up the box to rewire on V2's decide where fet will go and perhaps use existing wire + 1 extra signal wire at switch (2 posi go on same contact then signal on other running back to fet) try and disturb as little as possible - ensure spring has least tension when you open it 10mm round earth magnet under AR latch and she open quite easily with minimal explosion Would advise AoE or at least look into it, neoprene/sorbothane check piston o-ring seal, cylinder head seal etc.... (if using ptfe tape ensure not to block the port for blowback on cylinder head etc..) possible o-ring nozzle and maybe bearing spring guide if gun is not too close to site fps You lose a bit of fps doing AoE but good seals claw that back spring guide is ok but can add 15 or so fps - hence see how gun shoots fps wise first It is all a question of where do start n stop but most of the above are basic wise tweaks to consider Your gun atm might be running ok - I mean fit deans connectors will help for now and see how she goes as your running 7.4v lipo If and when she starts to play up - THEN open her up to service and mess about with unless you are mechanically confident and want it done sooner than later Just pointing out - if it ain't broke don't try to fix it - well not just yet coz I'd hate to see anybody pop back and say: "where the f*ck does thit bit go ?" or "now she won't fire/feed"

cm515 does not beat a G&G cm18 or 30th GC16 or Raider £70 - yeah its pretty good for money from TaiwanGun (I mean yeah it is half the price of a G&G Raider with shipping plus TWG do free ship on 100 Euro atm - but UKARA required coz TWG don't 2-tone ) £120 ??? - ffs no way - that is G&G or ICS starter money http://www.onlybbguns.co.uk/210733-cyma-cm515-m4-long-ris-aeg-sports-line.html#.Vhz9dm7p8i4 £110 - use RC10 to get 10% off = £99 delivered but "might" be a tad hot or over 350fps - often up to 400 tbh - £85-£90 absolute tops for a cm515 - you get over £100 and G&G are a safer bet for a bit more money Don't get me wrong it ain't a bad gun - but plastic is brittle type as opposed to G&G polymer receiver it usually runs a bit hot for most sites so needs a tweak/downgrade gearbox isn't bad - a few things like slight mod to a replacement tappet plate, removal of safety arm to open box etc... (soz getting carried away - did review one and yeah pretty decent starter box with 8mm bushings etc...) Looks nice but it needs a bit of work - fine if you like tinkering with stuff on the cheap like me but for most peeps who want a decent ready to use out of box gun - G&G is perhaps a safer/wiser choice my cm515 started to play up Saturday misfeeding - but have put some rounds through it I just dropped another barrel/hop in there for moment and is fine - well other barrel/hop curves a bit it was quite good on old barrel for such a cheap gun lifting .25's but think bucking or lip got a bit squiffy (this sort of stuff can happen on any gun btw) Still think G&G might be better option though their keymod range is a lot more than cm515 Other reason for maybe G&G is maybe easier to sell on if you decide than a cheapy 515 Still if you can get a 2-tone cm515 for £99 - that would come with a crappy battery n charger to get started Hmmmmm - tough call but think save a bit more n go for a G&G short Raider, CM18 or GC16 30th etc.... (but gotta factor in battery/charger on top of G&G) if £100 is your absolute budget max hmmm maybe but spring might be too hot (reason I say this is that cm515 certainly pi$$es over JBBG bulldog or cheapy crappy SRC M4's) So yes if I'm really honest it might be one of the few sub £100 guns perhaps that is worth a shot (what cyma should of done is drop in a 275-300mm barrel instead of 380mm and it would looked better plus fps should of dropped a smidge too barrel ending at end of keymod, add a cheapy suppresor perhaps - its a bit longer than the 363mm M4's but light as f*ck) anybody else with a bit more cash then perhaps get a G&G

Actually about a month to 6 weeks ago a kid turned up with a 2-tone JBBG sniper shooting at 285fps (think it was a mediocre Well one but might have had the restricter installed) Anyway - think it was wrong but they said to him about MED which I thought was bollox (I mean come on ffs - the kid has a long nosed shotgun really) Their argument was if he engaged people at close range it was cause rows about MED so they said still stick to it This is one time I feel the decision was so very wrong - I'm not sure how many kills the kid got but probably very very few (I'd have probably lent an aeg but stupidly chucked in an AK74 as a spare but no mags I discovered - another bell-end duck balls up) I could kinda see their possible view but still very very wrong to impose this - heck 10m MED would be plenty ffs and just let everybody know about the lame 2-tone sniper (ain't as if we have dozens of snipers anyway)

under 350fps bolt action sniper ??? you been shopping at JBBG again or something ???

EU is better/quicker http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=44626 charger was crap, a GENUINE B6 is best http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=31467 you "might" need some adapters to charge various battery types: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=31457 psu unit to power B6 - 99.999% sure this will do the job: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-IBM-Lenovo-Thinkpad-08K8203-72W-16V-4-5A-Power-AC-Adapter-Laptop-Charger-/400423702601?hash=item5d3b1cd049 have listed stuff at HobbyKing EU - easy to end up buying stuff from UK+ EU + Hong Kong call up charger first and wait 5 mins - you should get a box pop up and offer you it at discount of £20.47 Alas you can only get 1 item or the same item(s) discounted anything else is at normal price hence charger is most expensive so get discount on that maybe then add 2 or 3 lipo's - still good price and maybe the adapters EU do one shipping price no matter how much crap you buy it seems and not bad Hong Kong's so called free shipping is coz they have just bumped up their prices at HK recently - crafty bastids UK Hobby don't do - or didn't do the airsoft batteries - hence EU Hobby is ya best bet maybe have posted lots on lipo's and chargers here - funny lipo explosion on bottom of pg2 http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/28401-moving-to-lipos-whadda-i-need-to-know/ best of luck

oops soz misread - thought it was feed issue dooohhh yup trigger switch area, carbon build up maybe and trigger contacts getting stuck (could be cut off but to keep firing on auto means the plunger is remaining closed) it should stop firing on auto when trigger released so it is getting wedged on the contacts for some reason and spring not pulling it back (spring must be still there but maybe a bit weak or the contacts are pinching and grabbing the switch too tightly ?) new switch may be needed, the old one might be ok to clean up but wise to have a new one in case it is shot to crap