Sitting Duck

Not fair coz of your m14 Cyma's make good M14's too but the hop often breaks and you can't just get it replaced as easy as AK G36 or M4 CYMA AK JG G36 G&G M4 this 3 produce very good excellent value for money guns in their specialist field You buy any non run of the mill gun ballpups for example, F2000, plus some others with bespoke box or hop and it is a gamble and limited places to source replacement bits for it Yes it is nice to have a gun a bit different from the heard But comes with some risks, some are a bit more riskier than others Always look into getting it repaired before you actually buy it. Like a car - jap cars or really cheap cars sound lovely until you get the parts for them. Honda's bikes n cars are never really cheap to maintain compared to other makes Your M14 is a similar example perhaps

Gun should have a cheap metal gearbox, some dragon's have plastic or metal boxes But it is a very basic box the gen 1's These gen 1 SRC's are way behind ICS n G&G's in the £150 range of guns. It isn't that dire, use it, maybe a service but really don't go nuts on it is all I'm saying Step up to the next level or two Either a good new G&G or Krytac M4

To be honest forget upgrading the SRC It has a split 2 piece hop, 6mm plastic bushings, and some boxes and receivers will need a bit of minor modding to go/put in other stuff. The tiny gearbox pin don't align perfectly with some stuff The receiver has the flimsy eyelets that break easily plus other faults I can't be arsed to go into... It is a dated design and way behind today's standards SRC isn't that bad but I wouldn't waste much time/money on it Pretty damn sure is exact same model as we started with From jbbg tossers btw

Yup - never done that before - I do tell great big lies though# even when you are ready & prepared - so you think... it still explodes on ya first time or two - open box in carrier bag (helps to prevent you searching hands n knees for that tiny spring later)

you ain't wasted much time stateside annoying thing is bet they were a lot cheaper over there than this side of pond nice collection - ready for most sites it seems

wtf is this - painting by numbers - AR latch - the spring to be exact had one break in a cm18 when pushing her on 11.1v oops tell a lie it was the latch itself that cracked but spring was like a pube element/shs ar latch n spring will sort it but you need to investigate fps drop upload to imgur and copy/paste link I love the pdf title - CM 16 Gear Box EXPLODE - yup often they do just that opening them first time around mr cm18 clonked and then the AR didn't work at all really, and piston kept rolling back if slightly compressed thought it was a mangle pubic hair spring but as I removed it - the latch just cracked in two also only had this once so unless a bad batch or bad luck - hasn't happened since still you have pi$$ poor seals or fps though - but yup could of played a part in gearbox lockup "might" be other issues related so remove spring and spring off tappet plate and see how all the bits turn inside if all looks ok the remove cylinder with tappet & piston etc..... close up box - holding by hand is ok for first initial test - spin gears trying to get finger in cylinder window and flick the sector check for major snagging - like a tiny dot of plastic between teeth of gears there will be loads of play - half that amount once closed up which is a proper check you do afterwards DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN SCREWS - I say using a thumb and index finger as tight as you feel you can do it up is plenty using a clenched fist to tighten box will just strip the fine threads on gearbox casing quickly basically you need to ensure nothing is catching/locking up also check wiring - hopefully just the AR caused a jam and no real damage then sort out your seals - not the zoo type bevel should have one thinest shim on top or nowt if using thick bushings (this is a rough guideline only but so many shim it too low and tbh you have to use thin bearings and no shim to shim too high imho) read up ffs on shimming - you may not master it for a long while - I'm still far from what I call pretty good at it compare to real techy's but you will understand the basics of spacing/stacking them gears to get it nigh on as best as possible there is loads of crap to check and a few replacement bits check how much play is in the bronzey bushings - if s/hand there could be a bit of play by now in the holes where gear shafts run so replacements "may" need to be considered if excess movement. replacing these will deffo through out the shimming so you gotta understand it all a bit then look at them seals n stuff - clean up dirty gunky grease - bit of new lithium grease on gears/bushings/shafts silicone grease on piston's o-ring once sorted with new one etc...... take your time and try not to lose any tiny springs n such few dry runs closing up box with out spring - then hopefully she will be sorted soon to put all back together you did keep them bits safe and take a few pics btw...

Suppose you have a lot of CAT BURGLARS then - lol ok I'll get me coat - wtf - some bastid's nicked me coat

Blimey - did I just type all that crap - probably scared the poor sod off now he thinks - yeah right am I gonna read all that $hit - I'll just get a new gun

sounds like one of my first SRC's i "tried" to tinker with - lol tinkering with guns - yeah bit of a learning curve that one - still learning btw like us all to service a gun is actually really cheap unless major failures but still not end of world (at worse a new gearbox - £40-ish) but often like was said: spring - £5, shs m100 or element m105 seals - not the ocean/zoo kind - they are tricky to maintain piston o-rings - ebay# 271015542147 - very expensive, will have to save up a couple of quid to buy some more soon AoE neoprene pads - yes sorbothane is best but for most low to medium build guns neoprene will suffice - ebay # 250981193606 - M4 size (2 usually required to correct AoE - G&G should have removed 2nd tooth so maybe a slight shave/file to reduce slightly 3rd tooth) O-ring M4 nozzle - £5-ish and should be fitted - red shs is a good decent one new M4 or V2 cylinder head £8 aprox give or take a quid or two (can use ptfe tape wrapped around the old head - but me I'd get a double o-ring head and maybe tape if needed for best perfect seal) pack of shims - probably really bollox'd and bevel shimmed too low by previous owner - £4-ish Gears - should be fine, don't try for mega high speed ones unless you upgrade motor - good gears n motor will cost ya £50 aprox plus where do you start & stop - if doing that gear/motor then you gotta fit mosfet & rewire n crap too I'm trying to give you a brief - pah when is anything reply of mine short n brief - lol giving you a basic easy / cheap idea to service & get her back running again to last a while..... Bearing spring guide - better than piston bearings but bearing spring guide is gonna be maybe something to leave for next time with motor/gears/fet options Unless you wanna just go the whole hog - which tbh I'd advise doing it in gradual stages a rough cheap list of bits to service it with, unless gears or tappet plate is bollox'd black stock piston, tappet plate, cylinder will be fine etc...... only other thing as gun was s/hand is maybe get some 8mm bushings/bearings as the bronzey G&G's do wear a little quicker than steel bushings hopefully wiring is ok and motor hasn't burnt out etc... - but that cheap list of bits will do ya proud it is all in the fitting - especially shimming and little grease up - so read up a bit a little time and it is just a like building a kids basic little lego kit though at first when it don't go according to plan - it seems like Death Star or Millennium Falcon mofo (yeah I'd take a gearbox anyday than another christmas/new year wasted of my life doing that f*cking falcon mofo with kids) as long as it is just a normal CM non-blowback gearbox there isn't much inside a normal box really

not got one but "think" there was a magwell spacer thingy to fix some feed issues either it was E&L i think or LCT or something like that might not be anything to do with your problem but just saying there was a thingy I remember seeing ahh seems both E&L & LCT might have this bollox - hence me getting confused & unsure as to which http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152208219-Magwell-spacer-AK.html uhm just ignore this coz Like I said I ain't got one so best wait for a more clever mofo to chime in

Samurai's AR magnet trick works ace - so simple but so damn effective One that sod is behaving itself, the trigger is really the only thing to watch out for and "usually" is ain't as bad as the AR, it does seem to stay put long enough to close the box back up its when you got a mofo spring or both trigger AND the AR latch - that is when the air turns blue - almost black in my house

Nope - reckon I did the AK-12 was a good one at home - lovely jubbly chrono'd, get ready to go out, made my way through safe onto the field.... few test shots as you do - think 6 - 10 max shots and cheap sector gear crunched I went home with the right hump - sod using a spare gun I had in car I just wanted to see wtf has just died - nozzle not moving wasn't a good sign and hinted where it crapped out on me new sector - don't use cheap $hitty spare SRC gears - well not the crappy sector gear spare SHS sector - you can just see the difference straight away - still works but a little too plasticy to use on regular skirmish each week soz for my life story - but I feel your pain when your new toy breaks so very very quickly

it hasn't got a fet in there - 99.9% sure it ain't it is a v3 ak type gearbox & motor frame/cage - call it what you will so it may suffer the usual fussy AK selector issue..... Booligan did a great in depth review/tear down of it and the selector plate looks AK type to me: http://s411.photobucket.com/user/booliganairsoft/media/APS%20UAR/DSC_6075.jpg.html taken from his tear down guide - this is the revised UAR - the very first ones had battery up front thankfully later models were rear wired - my favourite http://www.booliganairsoft.com/2013/03/aps-uar-urban-assault-rifle-aeg.html so me thinks that is where you problem may be - the AK type selector issue doubt if 1k shots the switch burns out coz the space in stock limits mofo battery options nice gun - but mag or magwell issue is another chink in what is nice change from the norm aeg's price has recently jumped from 135 to 150+ euro's at TWG but deffo something up with selector plate or gear mechanism - doubt if its wear but could of just come loose or jumped a tooth - AK users will know what I mean

says 330 to 335 on Z1 & Airsoftworld like most G&G's look on some US sites and it might be smidge over for US market Most G&G's come out at 330 +/- 10fps from UK Retailers if you are ultra paranoid - get the seller to chrono it before you buy and ensure your site limit is within its fps most are 350 max outdoors but some indoor cqb like The Mall - Reading is 328 to 340 absolute max edit just beaten to the US market/sites as they do run a bit higher than UK's site limits Is it a decent aeg - hmmmmmmmm, dunno if I would buy a "regular" looking £300 G&G M4 might go for a 416 type or something else like keymod or other front end Good brand in the starter range of M4's - no question but £250/300 i'd probably look at others - maybe Krytac ??? But then I like the cheaper stuff to mess about with G&G are a good make especially at starter to intermediate level - think most will agree on that £300 could get you a very nice gun but everybody will have their own favourites/choices I'd be inclined to get a 30th for £150 & spend £50 on tweaks doing it myself or a Krytac off the shelf ready to go nutz with if in stock - if I wasn't into messing with stuff

Some motors run warmer than others and everybody has their own definitions of warm to hot etc..... The deans + lipo has made your gun a bit more snappy with motor being supplied with a lot more instant juice it should be fine tbh - you ain't going ultra nutz at all motor getting very warm very quickly could be motor height and/or bevel shimmed too low (or a badly shimmed motor at factory - had one of those cheapo neodym motors getting really hot quick) of course you will feel the motor getting hotter now - but I can't say how hot coz I ain't holding it also shooting 30 quick semi shots will get warmer than 60 on full auto coz motor is working so much harder from still wearing thick gloves or fit a thicker motor grip - lol shooting out on field is different to testing a gun on rapid semi spamming in ya garden. it "should" be ok coz it ain't really going nutz which on an PBB box you shouldn't really be pushing crazy rof imho up to 20rps is maybe the fastest I'd take a PBB box with a stock m100 spring as them boxes can crack a bit more than normal ones if really pushed you can only try it - but it ain't going mental in my book at all - the gun should handle and be lipo ready 25c is moderate - some nutters won't use anything below 40c but 25 is what I use and works well enough for me have a couple of 20c & 30c but 25c is fine and not silly burst rate in my book

that was a simple quick reply from me

G&P & Big Dragon M120's are $hitty ferrite motors - avoid at ALL costs do not be tempted to buy 4 of them even if they are on offer like some twat did..... not much better than a G&G stock red ferrite - sure ICS ferrites are faster than most others m140's neodym but a bit slow - torquey but not much quicker M160's - gearbox breaking mofo's - buy nothing else but ensure your box is up to it My own dissapointment - taking them BB site clowns at their word - metal gearbox my feathery ar$e oh and last weekend was gonna get a grenade kill on my smug little $hit son held up good n proper poxy dynatex timed bfg had been primed for 6 months+ and failed to detonate - just stuck when thrown little sod kept owning loads of us with his osh-i-boom - uhm think that was my osh-i-boom if I remember and it was my one chance to pi$$ on his firework - epic failure (as per usual)

LIPO's are dogz nutz and good makes you have there a little puff is fine but never try to pop the lipo like some tw@at me did http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/25943-g-g-aeg-cm18-mod1-for-first-aeg/page-3#entry208609 and check my status for why you really shouldn't f*ck with lipo's if they look iffy http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/statuses/user/9344-sitting-duck/?status_id=7231 But trust me a little puff is fine - the cheapo snidey crap one was getting more puffier each time you got very good makes there so they should last you ages just don't f*ck with them if they look iffy - seriously it f*cking burst into flames (almost as quick as I $hit myself) yeah - DO NOT stick a pin/pen thinking to release a bit of trapped air.... punctured cell - hisss hisss fizzz fizzz - whoooaahhhhh f*ck that dropping on carpet reaction WWWHHHOOOOOOFFFFF - bursting into flames - fire alarms going off - lol funny now but I got scorched carpet - paranoid missus and me owning up what a c@nt I am

you don't have all the internal wiring to watch out for and ensure it ain't pinched or popped out like v2's or the wire passing behind motor to keep low & in place on v2's V3's are much more test firendly - even rewire for mosfet after box is closed up the 2 part trigger is what took me a few attempts to put back together on my first AK but like most things there is a knack you soon suss out

Sigh - at a guess coz not that sad to run it through sound/wave tester like audio city thingy majig..... 33rps to 35 max on Single Sector Gear - not a dsg coz barrel is way past 250mm limit (they say up to 300mm barrels but imho it is 250 as in ak74, g36c & short M4 dsg builds) gears are GOOD 12:1 or 13:1 most likely, unlikely to be using Riot's 10:1 set @ $100 or £100 a set SHS Gen 4 or ak2m4's core 13:1 are doing well in some of mine good decent neodym motor & being yanks running 11.1v most likely you can get close to this 30 to 33 on 7.4v if you use mofo 16 to 14awg wire and a bloody good torquey fast motor Lonex A1 or a BD M160 - maybe SHS torque is a cheaper easy to get option YOU WILL NEED A MOSFET EVEN ON 7.4V - if done with M120 & SS two teeth a normal fet will be fine in fact the box must be built with ultra mega care at the very very best you can possible build to - really proper sorbothane, AoE or piston will just snap clean off - it WILL btw a decent robust piston with 3 to 7 full metal teeth - all metal is optional but another area you will must do: Shortstroke 2 teeth off back of piston and fit a m115 or m120 spring or Pre Engagement WILL happen on 30+ rps builds 2 teeth off the START or first couple teeth of sector gear - NOT BACK OFF SECTOR (back off piston's metal teeth - must have 1 metal tooth min left on piston and start of sector - take it off the back and tappet timing goes pear shape) would add delay clip to sector gear to assist with feeding - fit it correct way round, shs metal delay is what I use They built that using bearings which helps it run freely but I would not use bearings on sector gear as this turns slower under stain of piston LCT I think use bearings on bevel & spur but solid bushings on sector me - I have started to test out bushings mostly especially on sector but have used 8mm bearings on top/left side of gearbox for bevel/spur checking that runs quite smooth & free but bearings can/will fail before bushings so shimmimg must be bang on to prolong the life In fact the whole box is gonna have a shorter life than a 20rps box generally speaking as it is have the life knocked out of it more Another factor even with box running very very well - you will probably find a number of your mags may not feed very well most likely very good high caps like Lonex or good mid caps like ASG will be required to feed at 30+rps You WILL need to shortstroke & use a slightly higher spring best gearbox build you can ever possibly do and have good decent mags 20 to 24rps is max you can go with m100 full stroke - or she double cylcles and would need AB fet but 30rps on m100 you will very likely get PE or be on the absolute limit sailing so close to the wind parts wise it is about £50+ for gears & motor, then add in some more for piston/spring and fet (bearing spring guide etc....) getting near £75 to £100 I reckon plus a weekend of careful assembly test on 7.4v 25c min lipo and see how fast she cycles first - eg 30-ish can be achieved on 11.1v expect nearly 50% more but going past 35rps - deffo 40rps you will need to shortstroke a 3rd tooth off I feel this may drop fps a bit but a m120 & SS 2 teeth could still be putting you a smidge over 350fps if seals are perfect Not that tricky but it must be done very well to get 30+ rps and last a while

Safety First - I ain't watched the vid yet but that is the last bit of Safe-Zone as you head out to the combat zone/tunnels I made a couple of returns to Safe Zone to respawn with mag still in my gun and the head Marshal was on the ball He could of shot my ar$e but eventually the penny started to drop..... It is an easy mistake for many people to make - you can enter the Safe-Zone 2 ways though usually depending on game area you normally enter from the path into the tunnels rather than from the outer tunnels perimeter but as it is darker than most sites and all so new & different - lame excuse I know but often respawning is done from Safe Zone rather than Dead Zone in combat zone - so guess I failed to get into habit of keep taking out mag & clearing gun (as I suck at this airsoft this is & died loads n loads maybe more reminding needed than the pro tunnel rats) I would keep eye-pro on at all times when returning to respawn - only remove for lunchtime when all guns are left safe inside One time there was a battle going on where the outer perimeter or other side of Safe Zone was used I needed to pop out outside to squeeze my lemon but made sure my mask was on when I started to make my way outside It is FULL-ON, so ensure YOU are taking YOUR safety very very seriously as I put my hands I could of f*cked up they gave me a stern warning for mag in but they ripped me a new one when I did a quick dry fire - deffo no mag in there but gun's trigger was starting to stick - still firing when trigger released - think tight contacts binding switch when trigger pulled really tight well I forgot and stated to pull trigger - true safe dry firing but the head marshal was a LOT LOT MORE STERN as he bollocked me (rightly so too - silly twat me looking back at it - the safe zone is that and nearly all sites state not even dry firing should be done) reality is a short tiny couple of shots of dry firing you often hear, though usually at my local if I test a gun on dry fire it is done at my car - so my interior or windscreen would be at risk if my gun wasn't fully clear above all we rely on all players and ourselves to always try to play safe and put this safety before anything else Epsom are far from perfect on chrono maybe but I will say the marshal's - head Marshal was deffo on the ball in Safe Zone (could of light me up - and think he was gonna when I dry fired but that was my very very last warning I felt so I deffo complied afterwards)

Opening your first few gearboxes is a piece of pi$$ IT IS CLOSING THE BASTID'S UP THAT IS THE PROBLEM !!!! Kudos to Samurai - one or two 10-15mm round "earth" or "neodym" magnets under box where AR latch goes that REALLY helps to keep the AR latch in place so you only need 3 hands - not 4 now don't work on trigger as that ain't magnetic but at least you got one less thing to jump out Now all that is left is spring, yup sounds easy, couple of "dry runs" without spring seeing how it best closes up usually cylinder head side lowering into position first etc..... Then the spring with a nice fitting screwdriver or something helping to pivot & hold spring guide downwards If cylinder has port then this aligned with piston runners to ensure piston stays put and not jump off the guides Oh there is loads of stuff you suss out and pick up tips & techniques of your own along the way too M100 or M105 springs are a breeze, m115/120 you can feel the extra resistance when inserting springs Best one was the DSG with a m150 or M160 mofo in it - f*ck me that was "fun" on ya own no really - about 3 times I "thought" I had finally done it up only to find something had just popped out at last final closing of box we are talking about 15 attempts - maybe more and was really close to giving up a couple of times hands now covered in grease - even though they was dry & clean, slipping eveywhere, trying to get some grip/leverage to compress spring but the trigger/spring wants to jump right out the moment you even fart or breathe near it f*ckety f*ckety f*ck f*ck f*ck Yeah - the whole dsg stuff is way way over rated imho - slight shortstroke m120 with a 13 or 14:1 gear set is much easier to build and that is the easy bit - it is all the checking and sanding/file and checking that it all fits and works properly that takes the time (imho depending on work involved and how meticulous you are a box should take most of weekend to strip, rebuild totally and assemble/test) yup you can do it very quick if just replacing one or two parts - but a full box and getting everything as good as you can get it will take more than a day - often you will need to step back - look for something or a break to de-stress or rethink any issues etc.... Some crap just don't wanna go in & work quite how you expect it - some boxes/gears just sound $hit no matter how well you shim & reshim Well that is my take on them - but finding me taking more care/time is producing much better results than my first few builds Oh and v3 - at least you test the damn box very quickly, seeing the bevel gear's position shifting as you adjust motor height getting it as quiet and schreech free as possible - heck you can even loosen the motor frame/cage and slightly pull it a smidge to get angle as close to perfection as possible V2's not quite as "test" friendly before you find out how crap that build sounds

Fair enough - but always thought it was one of the normal guidelines of ukara helps to prevent sales/deliveries to kiddies or un-ukara'd players sure you have to bang in your email & postcode of reg. addy on ukara self check well I was lead to think it has to go to your normal regged addy but maybe some sellers may not stick to that guideline to the letter (it is them that is selling it so its their decision I guess if they feel it is legit and above board) anybody want a RIF - £50 + cost of rifle sent to any addy of your choice - pm me for more details..... (not really - f*ck off kiddies)

it is just one of the rules that it has to bought by and sent to the same addy on the ukara database (hence it is important to update any change of address as/when you move later on) is just one of them rules/regulations stuff - commercial place of work some may accept as legit addy if they know you others might deem any addy as no chance sun-dance