Sitting Duck

Yeah ok - now try that on our other half's yeah luv, you keep buying shoes, clothes, bags, coz you got no idea about fashion or looking good or the fact you fail to realise you got older and have started to go around the edges a bit so you ain't gonna fit in size 8 no more uhmmm - if you wanna say that to your missus first, then I will follow soon after I have packed my bags For the record I buy all sorts of $hite, not just G&G (that was for my jolly G&G fanboy friend - I still love G&G's btw)

yeah buy loads and still not have a clue what ones you really like Same as cars - get a nice expensive one and it should be a bloomin' nice one - especially for the price you paid (unless its VW Diesel) Or get a cheaper runaround and maybe a nice convertible for the summer or classic car or whatever floats your boat Apples n Oranges scenario - there is no 101% perfect answer as the question is just too vast and then aeg, gbbr, hpa thrown in, give it a stir - call any other makes people have - pure crap and so the debate goes on....... never to be fully resolved or answered TM, Krytac, PolarStar, JBBG - if you like it then that is all that matters

or get it built by a mofo best M4 - wow if there was just one clear winner for price, looks, performance, reliabiliity, sex appeal to women THEN WHY THE HECK DO WE ALL KEEP BUYING ALL SORTS OF GUNS ??? to put it another way - if anybody is happy with their particular gun, then to hell with what others think (reality - us big kids will never be happy & truely content, hence the "ooh that looks nice" problem arises time n time again)

it's fine as it is, you not have to hit 349.9999fps TM's often are about 300-ish but still bad ass mofo's I'd rather have 300fps accuracy than 349.99999 all over the f*cking place give barrel a little clean may help (dirty barrels lose fps) (if you are not sure just clean 85% of barrel length to avoid dirt/contaminating hop bucking) eventually if/when she drops below 300 or it don't seem so great then start to consider options but for now: deans & clean barrel with help

Ahhhh that might have had them weird 21:1 gears in there too. You could of changed to say 16:1 or something but gotta watch for PE on them longer stroke boxes. (Presume it was a longer v2 box like A&K 25's) Anyway it's jacked now so job done

8mm bronzey bushings usually on 99% of them (FireHawk has 8mm bearings for some reason) These softer bronzey bushins do wear so replace with shs bushings over time Gear ratios are "usually" 18:1 - though oddly FireHawk seems to be 21:1 most gearboxes use 18:1 as stock std gears - a few makes may use 16:1 but reckon 85% use 18:1 (some other types like L85's M14's may use 21:1 gears in longer stroke gearboxes but 18:1 is the "norm") Piston is a 16 tooth type - well sometimes referred as a 15 tooth if 2nd tooth is removed/missing for AoE But it is still a 16 tooth piston really coz sector gear has 16 teeth on std aeg gearbox Think the cylinder spec is about 72mm x 23.8mm internal diameter - yup think that is about it I guess screws to open G&G v2's are located on opposite side to a std non blowback box don't know why but G&G put screws underneath on regular v2's - though think blowback's are on top screws 90% will be allen key types - but some are still the odd phillips screws Upgrades...... double o-ring cylinder head o-ring nozzle new piston head - better plastic one cylinder - usually fine unless port is incorrect Correct AoE, sorbo/neoprene pad check seals etc...... grease blah blah blah you have a mosfet fitted anyway - can't say how robust it all is but a fet is there all the same so donkey work is done TBH - leave it as it is for now - you have a fet so you could run on higher juice for a while Then eventually when it NEEDS to, either it needs a service or she wears a bit or something busts.. THEN - re-do the box with tweaks/service/repair etc......... That is my best advice - if it ain't broke.... etc..... Even if you buy another "enhanced" or "upgraded" box it will still most likely need a tweak here n there Quick change spring boxes are nice but on M4's you still gotta remove most stuff to change spring just you haven't got to open box - but still gotta do 90% or removal to get to rear of box (unless you wanna drill out a big dirty hole at back of receiver and need a stock change/adapter) yes on some other guns (APS UAR) the quick change spring works great and 30 sec spring change but not on M4's on a tweaked box you are gonna be looking at £100 aprox for a mofo lonex box a £40/£50 gearbox will be nigh on just a std box and G&G boxes are pretty nice to work on with good compatibility Leave it as is for now, run a bit more juice maybe then say 6 months or so then get her tweaked and serviced a bit, drop in a neo motor and she will be lovely BTW not saying run on 11.1v with a high speed neo motor trying to hit 30rps - that is silly doing that will lead to piston pickup tooth snapping off - coz did that twice at first but a little more juice or maybe a motor on 7.4v getting up near 20rps should be ok for a little while probably replace small tamiya connectors with deans is cheap easy tweak

Bit of rubber - inner tube or something or rubber washer - depending how thick or big the wobble super glue, epoxy JB weld or something ????

yup - smaller basic fet will do if your gun is not double cycling (AB is an option but imho only if your really need it) I doubt if you will be running a blowback ultra quick yup you gotta open up the box to rewire on V2's decide where fet will go and perhaps use existing wire + 1 extra signal wire at switch (2 posi go on same contact then signal on other running back to fet) try and disturb as little as possible - ensure spring has least tension when you open it 10mm round earth magnet under AR latch and she open quite easily with minimal explosion Would advise AoE or at least look into it, neoprene/sorbothane check piston o-ring seal, cylinder head seal etc.... (if using ptfe tape ensure not to block the port for blowback on cylinder head etc..) possible o-ring nozzle and maybe bearing spring guide if gun is not too close to site fps You lose a bit of fps doing AoE but good seals claw that back spring guide is ok but can add 15 or so fps - hence see how gun shoots fps wise first It is all a question of where do start n stop but most of the above are basic wise tweaks to consider Your gun atm might be running ok - I mean fit deans connectors will help for now and see how she goes as your running 7.4v lipo If and when she starts to play up - THEN open her up to service and mess about with unless you are mechanically confident and want it done sooner than later Just pointing out - if it ain't broke don't try to fix it - well not just yet coz I'd hate to see anybody pop back and say: "where the f*ck does thit bit go ?" or "now she won't fire/feed"

cm515 does not beat a G&G cm18 or 30th GC16 or Raider £70 - yeah its pretty good for money from TaiwanGun (I mean yeah it is half the price of a G&G Raider with shipping plus TWG do free ship on 100 Euro atm - but UKARA required coz TWG don't 2-tone ) £120 ??? - ffs no way - that is G&G or ICS starter money http://www.onlybbguns.co.uk/210733-cyma-cm515-m4-long-ris-aeg-sports-line.html#.Vhz9dm7p8i4 £110 - use RC10 to get 10% off = £99 delivered but "might" be a tad hot or over 350fps - often up to 400 tbh - £85-£90 absolute tops for a cm515 - you get over £100 and G&G are a safer bet for a bit more money Don't get me wrong it ain't a bad gun - but plastic is brittle type as opposed to G&G polymer receiver it usually runs a bit hot for most sites so needs a tweak/downgrade gearbox isn't bad - a few things like slight mod to a replacement tappet plate, removal of safety arm to open box etc... (soz getting carried away - did review one and yeah pretty decent starter box with 8mm bushings etc...) Looks nice but it needs a bit of work - fine if you like tinkering with stuff on the cheap like me but for most peeps who want a decent ready to use out of box gun - G&G is perhaps a safer/wiser choice my cm515 started to play up Saturday misfeeding - but have put some rounds through it I just dropped another barrel/hop in there for moment and is fine - well other barrel/hop curves a bit it was quite good on old barrel for such a cheap gun lifting .25's but think bucking or lip got a bit squiffy (this sort of stuff can happen on any gun btw) Still think G&G might be better option though their keymod range is a lot more than cm515 Other reason for maybe G&G is maybe easier to sell on if you decide than a cheapy 515 Still if you can get a 2-tone cm515 for £99 - that would come with a crappy battery n charger to get started Hmmmmm - tough call but think save a bit more n go for a G&G short Raider, CM18 or GC16 30th etc.... (but gotta factor in battery/charger on top of G&G) if £100 is your absolute budget max hmmm maybe but spring might be too hot (reason I say this is that cm515 certainly pi$$es over JBBG bulldog or cheapy crappy SRC M4's) So yes if I'm really honest it might be one of the few sub £100 guns perhaps that is worth a shot (what cyma should of done is drop in a 275-300mm barrel instead of 380mm and it would looked better plus fps should of dropped a smidge too barrel ending at end of keymod, add a cheapy suppresor perhaps - its a bit longer than the 363mm M4's but light as f*ck) anybody else with a bit more cash then perhaps get a G&G

Actually about a month to 6 weeks ago a kid turned up with a 2-tone JBBG sniper shooting at 285fps (think it was a mediocre Well one but might have had the restricter installed) Anyway - think it was wrong but they said to him about MED which I thought was bollox (I mean come on ffs - the kid has a long nosed shotgun really) Their argument was if he engaged people at close range it was cause rows about MED so they said still stick to it This is one time I feel the decision was so very wrong - I'm not sure how many kills the kid got but probably very very few (I'd have probably lent an aeg but stupidly chucked in an AK74 as a spare but no mags I discovered - another bell-end duck balls up) I could kinda see their possible view but still very very wrong to impose this - heck 10m MED would be plenty ffs and just let everybody know about the lame 2-tone sniper (ain't as if we have dozens of snipers anyway)

under 350fps bolt action sniper ??? you been shopping at JBBG again or something ???

EU is better/quicker http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=44626 charger was crap, a GENUINE B6 is best http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=31467 you "might" need some adapters to charge various battery types: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=31457 psu unit to power B6 - 99.999% sure this will do the job: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-IBM-Lenovo-Thinkpad-08K8203-72W-16V-4-5A-Power-AC-Adapter-Laptop-Charger-/400423702601?hash=item5d3b1cd049 have listed stuff at HobbyKing EU - easy to end up buying stuff from UK+ EU + Hong Kong call up charger first and wait 5 mins - you should get a box pop up and offer you it at discount of £20.47 Alas you can only get 1 item or the same item(s) discounted anything else is at normal price hence charger is most expensive so get discount on that maybe then add 2 or 3 lipo's - still good price and maybe the adapters EU do one shipping price no matter how much crap you buy it seems and not bad Hong Kong's so called free shipping is coz they have just bumped up their prices at HK recently - crafty bastids UK Hobby don't do - or didn't do the airsoft batteries - hence EU Hobby is ya best bet maybe have posted lots on lipo's and chargers here - funny lipo explosion on bottom of pg2 http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/28401-moving-to-lipos-whadda-i-need-to-know/ best of luck

oops soz misread - thought it was feed issue dooohhh yup trigger switch area, carbon build up maybe and trigger contacts getting stuck (could be cut off but to keep firing on auto means the plunger is remaining closed) it should stop firing on auto when trigger released so it is getting wedged on the contacts for some reason and spring not pulling it back (spring must be still there but maybe a bit weak or the contacts are pinching and grabbing the switch too tightly ?) new switch may be needed, the old one might be ok to clean up but wise to have a new one in case it is shot to crap

welcome and yup there's a couple on here that play at Worthing seems like you have done your homework and got ya head screwed on with ya approach too

Think the photo is mirrored or back to front btw is this a gen G&G lower receiver ??? coz it looks like a lot of modding n hacking to remove old stock thingy mounty majig that was on there once I'm wondering was it like a M4 pistol reciever that the previous owner got something knocked up on a lathe or something or was there a rare short bespoke M4 reciever that had the stock tube mount as an option Your stock ring seems to be the main problem here perhaps.... (black piece hanging down) you seem to have one that might be solid like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M4-STOCK-PLATE-for-AIRSOFT-/301757727787?hash=item464229842b where as you may need one with a cut out underneath to allow for wires to pass through like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Airsoft-Tactical-ASAP-Sling-Plate-Mount-Metal-for-AEG-UK-stock-/291549859231?hash=item43e1b9cd9f or adapt the one you have already HOWEVER a couple of things perhaps the silver mount may not have a groove that it may need for wires to slip under and into stock tube Also the amount of thread on the sliver mount is maybe too much for what it needs - the stock ring will be sitting on threads not on the grooves Another possible option is maybe a full size fixed stock a stubby would need work and the grooves at start for ring to fit on correctly What stock was fitted on there previously ??? Was it front wired/peq box or pistol thingy receiver any more pics of old stock and stuff previously fitted ??? looks a little of a mod project atm so your options may be limited without some further adaptations chuck up some more pics and I'm sure some techy enginner mofo might come up with best option(s)

on Airsoft GI you can pre-pay the duty at checkout trouble is that $225 gun will come near $275 with aprox $50 shipping + import duty (could get close to $350 - at least $325 all inc I reckon) You could probably get a tweaked up JG 608 with a program fet for that money tbh but won't have trademarks or blowback - so kinda see where ya extra money goes on licensed Umarex stuff I placed an order on Evike once but cancelled coz took too long to prepare/ship order I paid for got my full refund but just found they couldn't get their act together quickly on my order 10months ago

Nerf or nothing

tweak ya dmr a bit then pick up a either a cheapy CM short Raider, AK74, G36c etc for cqb if you like to test that water later on don't have to be laser $hit hot accurate or mega ultra rapid fire as real close is semi only anyway Then go down to Epsom Tunnels and $hit yaself in the dark (some hot guns f*ckin' hurt though) or The Mall in Reading many on here love that place

Yeah that is the line many of us ask ourselves poor sod - your hooked & bye bye wallet glad you had a great time

Go back to old barrel & stock hop unit on the shorter 220-ish barrel coz barrel length can REALLY alter crap I just discovered..... just got through testing about a dozen springs and interesting results..... Also I noticed no real difference which way round the springs went either ??? which is a bit unexpected You are supposed to fit spring with tightest coils at spring guide end to allow easier starting on irregular springs and it is supposed to make a difference or lower fps if it goes back to front (tight coils at piston) - NOPE For the record these springs were tested on a APS UAR that is supposed to have a full stroke 410-ish stock barrel Some were std regular or linear or same crap coil spacing & others were irregular springs but no difference seen on either ??? (also worth noting the m100 fitted to UAR from TWG was hitting a bit over too 348 - 355 so a bit over its official 328 rating) Also tested the old cm515 spring which was 400-405fps on 380mm barrel and it gave 405-410fps so kinda about right on 407mm Also the Element M105 used to give me 350fps on a CM18 with a 275mm barrel with AoE done but stock spring guide (probably hit 365fps with spring guide is my gut feeling) But 1 - maybe 2 of these (found another in a bag of old springs that looked same) was hitting 390 to nearly 400fps on UAR if I fitted spring guide to CM18 and expected 365 - that is still a 25 to 35fps increase on the longer barrel in UAR Going by a list of figures n crap from these springs tested it does seem to indicate there is joule creep as barrel gets longer (Well don't know if it is exact same joule creep as some gas guns get lifting heavier 0.25's bb's at similar or close fps to 0.20's) But fps does seem to rise the longer the barrel gets showing an increase in Kinetic energy - lol God I love that word and had to squeeze it in somehow coz you always see that kinetic energy crap being used in spring/fps posts etc.... What is odd that my gun was able to stay below 350 previously but piston seal might not have been 101% perfect plus I did recently change bucking as it showed a slight nick looking where the lips where - so this may explain some stuff (same spring, different pistons but still short stroked 2 teeth - rof has dropped a smidge but now using all bushings & bit heavier piston weight) Anyway....... Springs tested - most I haven't got a bloody clue wtf their ratings are/where: 440 fps - same both ways 432 fps - same both ways 425 fps - same both ways * my gut feeling these 3 could be m120's hitting say 30fps more on longer barrel * 410 fps - cm515 spring so sounds about same/similar fps in UAR (same both ways) - might be a m115 ???? 390 - 395 - Element M105 - irregular spring but same both ways ??? 385 - 390 - Element M105 - maybe - well looks very similar and probably chucked in spring bag coz unsure if 105 or 115 spring * could be rated a m105 but might be a smidge over / worn m110 * 380 - 385 - same both ways 380 fps - same both ways * these could be used m105 or over rated m100 ??? * (one of these came out of a used broken G36c I'm lead to think) 340 - 345 - same both ways - Hmmmm, this could be a m95 or so spring and could come in handy later........ 325 - 330 - this could be a m90 or m95 slightly worn spring...... The last 2 springs are quite possible lower springs than m100's if the Element M105 is anything to go by These might show a small minor increase if installed say in an AK47 with 455/469mm barrel ???? So these might save me a major headache when I downgrade my cm28a AK's perhaps (would be good to get somebody like Ian's experience on this though) Think Sp00n had an L85 & R85 thingy majig and had to drop in a m90 or m95 spring in there (stock barrel length of 510mm me thinks) as he was too hot to use .25's at around 310fps (aprox 350 on 0.20's - ah to hell with it - KINETIC ENERGY Phew...... Now I still gotta rip my box apart - pull spring out, and test this mofo that hit 385/390 even though it is short stroked 2 teeth and then when tested in UAR try and get something 30-35 less perhaps, I'll try 30 is my gut feeling atm..... Getting back to your own problem it seems that the 50 fps increase is half tbb & maybe half barrel length increase Though you say you tried the old barrel I think - so the mystery deepens if you put back all the stock stuff though the flat hop has probably pushed it up a smidge but jeez...... I'm really sorry I do not have a perfect solution other than complete stock barrel & hop, clean barrel and wait for a bit of fps drop before doing any further tweaks - not what you wanted to hear but just a little alteration can make a big difference I have just found out and can increase fps but so much it places us over site limits Damn Kinetic Energy bollox But atm my hunch, and that is all it is btw seems to show that there "might" be a 20-30fps increase when you extend barrel lengths by 100mm This could equate to say about 8 to 10% increase in fps per 100mm but tbh this crap & my findings has proven only one thing Trying to work out rough expected fps is a major guessing game as so many factors can alter $hit Think I'll cancel my degree in airsoft mathematics for now coz as soon as I find something that works another curve ball gets thrown at me and knocks me on my ar$e that I feel like an England Rugby player atm edit/update thought or conclussion based on f*ck actual knowledge but here we go..... G&P gun has 215mm barrel so to ensure it has a bit of oomph they bung in a m105 or maybe m110 to compensate for fps lost You fit in 300mm which bumps it up to normal fps level of 350-360 but coz tbb it goes up a further 15-20fps this might explain where the hell that extra 50fps came from this is all duck speculation and end of day it don't change $hit that its running hot but might shed some light or idea wtf all these weird figures are coming from maybe I'm off to get some Nurofen coz I got a major headache and my own crap to sort out still

Why do you want to drop fps for DMR ??? thought most places have AEG DMR's at 425-450 & bolt snipers at 450 - 500 absolute max normal aeg's run at about 350 but ya SR25 is hardly a easy to wield gun for cqb/taking buildings etc..... some places might allow a bit over 350 for aeg's but a DMR @ 350-400 is a little low

Yeah but I'm still boned with mine - put ported cylinder back in - dropped at last 390 to 385 How the heck that was under 350 with that setup, but gotta be a 101% perfection seal now (this has been a bollock-ache, bearings broke the piston snapped off - yes AoE was done) new full metal piston swiss cheeses SS 2 teeth as before..... erhh ummm but went with new lighter poly piston head due to heavier metal rack piston... 407mm tbb - full or old ported cylinder - went with full cylinder somehow gain 40fps - the piston seal is only thing I mainly can put it down to Now got my APS UAR out and testing various springs out first before I open her up yet again brand new Element m105 produced 398fps - wtf ??? SHS M125 430fps (yeah didn't think they did the " 5 " increments) but the m125 is kinda right but the Element M105 at nearly 400fps :blink: :blink: No wonder crap ain't adding up - think springs must be female coz I just don't understand them like I thought I did especially in longer barrels (407tbb gun is similar to APS UAR tester I'm using) I know like the MK23 gas pistol had a barrel extension which pushed it over 350 to say 400 but thought stuff like joule creep was mainly on gas/co2 stuff coz never seen weird $hit like this before Soz gate crashing thread again thinking of doing something easier than aeg's - like a double sided bake bean jigsaw puzzle in the dark