Sitting Duck

tbh - I don't really give a f*ck just doing it for fame and provoke a reaction which my first reaction is looks gay and the guy must be a c*nt anyway he could run around as a KKK, Bin Laden, the devil himself, or who ever he chooses all I would see if some c*nt looking gay pretending to be something he is not looking for a reaction and to anybody else - nope I'm sorry if that is an insult to anybody's sexuality it was just a general stereotype observation Merry Christmas - even gay looking c*nts seeking attention (hope you get your fame fix & medication/help you need in 2016) peace x x x maybe close thread - delete it coz its all bollox from a nob/bell end

google: " how does an aeg cut off lever work " in semi the selector plate is allowing the cut off lever to rise up (cam on sector gear) and as it rises with switch engaged/trigger pulled it lifts the switch trolley up/away from trigger which flies backwards cutting off switch circuit stopping the gun cycling the little spring returns the cut off lever to rest allowing the switch to drop so trigger can relatch onto it in auto the cut off lever is disengaged as it is pulled up out of the way (said google it coz it probably will get a bit confusing as I try to explain it) However...... on most old skool mechanical switch aeg's there is a "dead zone" this is where when firing on semi the trigger is released too early and the cut off lever has not fully returned Trying to fire gun is this state will have the trigger & switch trolley not latching correctly - often slipping off each other or feeling a bit stiff.... DO NOT FORCE IT you can damage it which sounds like it may have happened perhaps to give odd symptoms what you are supposed to do in this instance is switch to auto - fire once or nudge gun's cycle past this dead zone (it is where cam is still lifting the cut off lever a smidge) The operation of semi/auto is basically where the cut off lever is slipping under the switch to lift/disengage it on semi or slipping over the switch on auto so the cut off lever has no effect on the trigger/switch mechanism spring itself - not normally sold on its own, normally in a v2 spring set for about fiver http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/zci-gearbox-spring-set-v2 you could chop up say a clicky biro pen or something like that to find a similar spring (yeah that bastid spring is tiny and boy does she fly well - lost a couple of those mofo's) The only concern is that if the trigger/switch has been forced a number of times in the " dead zone " it may have caused a little wear on the switch trolley or other parts involved was gun new or s/hand - most parts will fit in a G&G ok but some parts are more compatible than others and may need a tiny modification to get them working perfectly.... either new and been forced in dead zone or s/hand and not serviced/repaired 101% correctly on mechanical side of switch some M4 selector plates are slightly slightly different to others I have noticed not just some are thicker/thinner but the selector cut out or semi point can be different (an area that is modded/removed to disable auto firing on dmr's) so the selector plate might have worn or failed to lift the cut off lever 101% correctly impossible to say the exact single cause - take a few pics maybe so we can see & maybe rule out stuff c'mon Santa - where's my f*ckin' bike !!!!!! (04:30am xmas morning and no pressies yet - geriatric old fart) Merry Christmas

looks a bit gay holding a G&G GC16 - possible 30th edition and if Trigger says stuff like: "Well it is a G&G...." - bollox

Some paint - some don't sometimes its to do with camo others its just to add ya own touch or blend in to compliment your loadout or other reasons like - I was bored.... add your own grip/sights/scope - its your gun do what ya want with it me I ain't too bothered if it still looks quite stock many wrap some camo tape or black duct tape to a 2-toner just go easy on accessories perhaps:

gas - if ya use it enough then propane/colemans gas with a drop of silicone cost of glock mags - well you can get WE G18 type for £20 or less aeg mags aprox £10 to £20 depending on type/make/gun - can pay a lot more (check out mag costs & availability on any gun you are thinking of buying) hpa/gas/electric - there are pro's n cons for all of them tbh be it initial outlay, running costs, reliability, cold weather etc.....

Just to add.... find local site, hire gun & play a few times first this will allow to get defense/ukara etc.... also it will help to test the water then if you can see yourself getting hooked THEN flogg ya air-rifle setup..... Now you may wanna go down the hpa route being paintball/air rifle player by that time you know if ya gonna go nutz then you will have defense blah blah blah to get yourself setup with either aeg or save more for hpa mofo normally I wouldn't even suggest hpa - but your history you might be wishing to consider it at some point welcome to forum - best of luck getting married and finally when the boss says " FINE " - yeah that means anything but (it is not fine - but she hasn't thought of way to make you pay - yet)

The guides in new players section is a must read no really they will answer most questions and others you haven't thought of yet saving a lot of time & money - wish I read them earlier welcome to forum & UK weather is crap but at least you get to play with toy guns warning - it can get VERY addictive this pee pew pew stuff

Cyma 028 min.... many go for the cm04x ones but the 028 range is a good budget one do not go for a cm52x series as they are too cheap imho APS have got better but only have a UAR - weird mags/magwell EBB - more crap to go wrong especially as you tweak gun to a higher rof (just shout clakety clack when firing and stuff won't fly off is my view)

Try another hop unit, some of them can vary a smidge Sometimes the lips can distort but this can cause poor feed or fps loss Others can sit slightly further back and seal better against nozzle but again the nozzle may not clear enough to feed properly especially at auto speed One thing to try is stick say an o-ring in front of hop, or piece of card to push back the hop unit to help bucking nozzle seal. But might restrict feeding if pushed to far back. Tappet spring, could lop a coil off to increase tension to help seal firmly Also loosen stock a bit as sometimes as stock is tightened tightly it can pull box back and front raises up that can knock the nozzle -hop out of alignment Doubt if that was the problem but it might have got knocked out of whack Trying to think of any things to check/try next

Clean barrel, check m4 unit has tiny spring at hop unit pushing back to gearbox thought hop must be torn (had that a couple of times) but you said you changed hop rubber but that is a ton of air loss - like a girly silent fart coming out of air nozzle/front of box not saying guru's walking on water can chrono by just putting their hand up in front of nozzle but you get the idea that very little is coming out if box is barely farting out air yup could be dry seals but still a friggin' lot of loss - many stock guns still produce 300 with not so great seals and poor cylinder head/nozzle sealing depends if you wanna strip the box down and grease/polish cylinder, new o-ring, nozzle, ptfe tape etc.... (if not get a tech to look at it) sounds like hop/bucking area and dirty as f*ck barrel, as first area to check out further unless box is barely passing wind out of nozzle another area is its been knocked out alignment box to hop causing nozzle to rub against hop and crap seal but both guns go pear shape is a bit weird but not unusual.... says my my teching guru: (soz it's a bit quiet lately and I'm stuck in with kids driving me nutz) if it ain't hop/bucking/barrel area or defective nozzle failing to seal 101% (could be snagging or weak tappet spring but this usually affects feeding) it is gonna be a bugger/number of things to fully check out - might be a few things but very likely it is gonna one stupid dumb a$$ thing - oooh yeahhh.... that must be really causing it to drop so much M4 hop/barrel out pushed up against gearbox - blow down barrel and see if airtight retract these slowly apart to see if it seals well or just barely seals when pushed home soz I'm just trying to think of things to check coz not got it front of me yup got some loss on some guns but nowhere that bad

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/3779-the-beginners-guide-to-airsoft/ http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ basically...... http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/12854-new-player-guides-info/ ps - welcome to forum, loads of good info above

f*ck me for £29:99 I'll knock you a professional suppressor bollox plus it will reduce your heating bills too..... http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p57097?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=shF5jhR3U_dc&pcrid=66162905543&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=Cj0KEQiA496zBRDoi5OY3p2xmaUBEiQA fitting is easy but you may need a grown up to help using round nosed scissors washing bottle, sticky back plastic, cable ties & duct tape - solves everything free Blue Peter velcro patch with all orders over £50

yeah good luck with a new little 'un on the way airsoft can get expensive - if you let it but tbh you can get by without going too nutz kids though very draining on finance, patience, stress levels etc.... 2016 will be quite a year for you then best wishes you can get anyway from kids at home to play with bigger kids with expensive toy guns

Think many woodland places allow up to 500 bolt (some may only allow 450 unless you can clearly define accurately 30m MED) 425 dmr locked to semi 350 aeg that is the norm - might help if you say where abouts you are looking to play rather than a complete list of sites from Land's End to John O' Groats Long & short self answer: Locate a site, go to website, check info/rules - in there it should say fps limits ricochets, gun hits, blah blah blah and any other specific guidelines blah blah blah

Think I left it primed for a while and that is reason why its a bit w@nked impact gives 'em no time to leg it, won't blow yourself up or ya m8's if ya get taken out just as you are about to chuck/cook a timed bfg but softer ground timed has advantages though - unless its a bit boned like mine horses for courses as they say

if you chuck impact bfg out on long wet grassy field - no chance sundance might try dynatex in new year - what was the Mall's ruling on BFG's thought some BFG's are only allowed in some places a solid metal oshi won't do any nice polished floors any favour but might be confused now but thought timed bfg's were are bit more ok at Mall than say oshi's any regulars enlighten us or am I talking out of my duck's ar$e again ??

it don't work too well on very soft ground tricks are to aim for covered areas of woodland that aren't soaked like muddy open fields - even told give a flick to spin but didn't seem to do much tbh on softer wet ground it is a little hit n miss - great in summer but not good if you are washed out in Carlisle the poor sods The dynatex impact one is one I have come close to buying a couple of times it ain't bare solid metal like oshi - always wondered if oshi hit somebody on leg (has to be thrown under arm) - but still quick heavy n solid if it whacked a guys leg the dynatex impact seems covered in rubber/plastic but still detonates very well in test videos alas I don't use bfg's much - my son friggin' cleaned up in summer one day with oshi (he was aiming for a corner point - ground was hard but if it failed it would go off as it hit a wall of pallets) thought I'd wipe the smile off his face and dug out the timed one but failed to go off in a cqb battle (so yeah I and others got owned by the little $hit - again) as for adapters - cheap bit of imperial pipe allows ya to use .203 shotgun primers instead of 9mm blanks think it was something like a piece of alloy pipe say 1/4" inner by 3/8" outer diameter I bought n fits well could dig out the exact dimensions but you get the idea of a cheap 6mm x 9mm tube to chuck up cheapo adapter just measured a shotgun primer - 6.17ish so it is a bit over 6mm hence me refer to imperial sizes 1/4" = 6.35mm ain't got 9mm to hand - sounds daft but sure it was something weird coz 3/8" is 9.25 (might be 11/32" = 8.73mm or 23/64" = 9.21mm)

http://www.zerooneairsoft.com/product_info.php?products_id=2415 $hit tbh, the "timed" now has gone all female teenagery sometimes it just can't be ar$ed and very unpredictable spray wd40 silicone - works for a while but still unclear if 3sec or 7sec+ timer impact - oshiboom no problems buying that at all would like to try the dyantex impact maybe one day http://www.zerooneairsoft.com/product_info.php?products_id=4320 http://www.airsoftworld.net/dynatex-dominator-impact-blank-firing-grenade-bfg.html (no form crap to fill in at AW) but their timed bfg has a mind of its own

Always always try another mag or two. Tbh if you are on 7.4v or 8.6v you won't be going ultra mental past 20rps unless you rewiring deans n MOSFET etc... The high-speed motor produces aprox 50% over stock, sounds a lot but tbh it ain't mental getting to about 20rps 25rps and some mags/guns show feed issues 30rps and above stuff has be pretty decent So as long as you ain't pushing 9.6v to say 11.1v lipo it should of been OK as is Sounds like it might started playing up soon anyway Or if spring was downgraded at same time maybe nozzle changed or other stuff ??? Feed problems are a bit of headache at best of times Best of luck

2016 - busy year for many

All "melee" stuff "comes" from lovehoney ahem mods feel free to remove/edit this post as it is derailing and lowering the tone (need to remember there are younger players on here too) suppose now with we will see more light sabres being used I can just force choke them from 10ft like Darth Vader I'm so badass

Army R85 is CW - i think but nigh on most stuff is CCW (check just in case there is a tiny tiny grub screw on flash hider before ya muller it off) ps - some brands of tracer units are crap heard the big dragon ones don't last too long tight fisted saddo's with time on their hands make their own with uv leds & jb weld price up tracer bb's, not as cheap as normal 0.20's if ya like to spray n pray a lot

Think nowt beats a black rubber Dildo Ooh hang on that came out the wrong way I meant knife kill ffs

G36c TM or ICS if you like folding stock, large mag, non-M4, ambi selector mp5 or mp5k but not a fan of the little stick mags (my aim is crap so need all the bb's I can get in a mag) just my thoughts - by now you got loads of options so go with whatever floats ya boat the most

I did wonder that too but description said it varies 350-380 and I am assuming the site might have given him an ak mag of .20's at chrono but yup as Mack said - ya bb's are 0.20's or are they cheapy 0.12's flying all over the place soz it goes 340 to 390 - not only do they lie n bull$hit - more than moi but haven't a clue - bit like moi.... https://www.justbbguns.co.uk/product/549/2-TONE-GUNS-PRO/466/2-TONE-AEG-RIFLE/594/SRC-PRO-AK47-AIRSOFT-GUN