Sitting Duck

would this work - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__67727__Turnigy_nano_tech_1300mAh_2S_25_50C_Lipo_AIRSOFT_Pack_T_connector_.html just a smidge over but reckon it might be ok to fit in ak dust cover sure Ian uses these or stuff like it check out hobbyking's airsoft stick batteries

http://www.firestormsystems.com/shop/electronics/mosfet-switch.html bloody good little mofo there ready to rock n roll for a tenner delivered or make your own 3034 fet but only get true genuine 3034's from places like farnell or rswww you need to buy a number of fets but if you go in with a few people the bits come down to about £3:50 plus you can make the fets as to each spec of gun - though tbh build a few fets at same time whilst iron is out tbh - it is a bit of work to make just one single mosfet the f-storm one is one of cheapest best value one around and for doing one gun or two whybother building ya own there are others like nano gates, some may like AB but a straight forward non ab will do most people yes you can get debounce but if the operation of switch is true, strong and correct it will be fine so unless it is pi$$ poor switch or maybe AB fets could start to reverse polarity for a tiny nano split second on bouncey signals a normal simple fet will be fine - well I think so

V3 deffo has long trigger pull due to wear in the 2piece trigger an old JG G36c, a Galaxy mp5k plus another one I was tinkering with was a joke with loads of slack finally switch engages right near the absolute very end of travel there was considerable wear/slack on the 2nd "cam lever" of mechanism so replacing that helped but can reduce the total travel further with some glue & thin 1mm to 2mm plastic mine wasn't not exactly ultra hairline - but reduced travel for sure V2's are not that bad but think they are an easier mod than v3 one for people who want absolute instant response, hairline trigger, precocking blah blah blah but yeah an experienced player can kick ar$e even without all the crazy stuff I looked into some of the v3 trigger stuff coz some boxes were quite full of play/wear/slack and like said only just about seemed to engage at end of travel The trigger mod is not a must do mod, but many assume a microswitch will give shorter trigger pull but if keeping cut off lever then any old skool type trigger system still needs close careful tweaking as every box/trigger is different only attempt if you are quite sensible, ready to spend time & time checking and above have some spares to start over if you totally screw up

And if you fit a mosfet your contacts won't burn out again Which on any gearbox with microswitch they burn out like f*ck without a fet So fit a mosfet, stick to old skool trigger setup - not 101% perfect but works quite well cheap n easy to replace etc.... microswitch - hairline trigger crap etc.... can be done on old skool triggers quite well if you have half a brain and a little time.... http://www.ptairsoft.org/forum/index.php?topic=44665.0 yes you will need to translate it but this is similar to what I started looking into and this method I think is best all round mod to reduce trigger pull on v2's and V3's still a bit of mod-test-mod a bit more but does seem best method so far JB Weld or epoxy glue is better than using superglue imho bit of plastic - bloody neat trigger mod (mosfet of course) sod microswitch imho As Samurai said learn trigger discipline if contacts are charred & carbon'd - but seems like it still works then after a clean up they will be fine if cut-off & trigger works ok then fit fet and contacts should be fine reason I say this is that "sometimes" fitting a new switch may just need a slight check/file to get new switch to work 101% correctly heard shs switches - that are good needs a tiny mod in some guns & others they work perfectly as is just the norm with all stuff as many many times TM compatible is rarely 101% TM compatible for every box out there sounds to me - existing switch is still ok but just a bit dirty - though I haven't got it in front of me if it still works - then clean it and keep it afterthought.... yes some people have replaced the "prongs" or contacts with a 6mm or smaller tactile switch but this makes a little clicky noise when in use that many microswitches do but obviously like all microswitches you MUST use a fet and even then you won't get a hairline trigger until you do the mod properly eg: takes out the slack in trigger travel carefully checking and slight modding to cut off lever or without the mod the travel will be too short for correct operation both semi & auto so yeah you can fit a microswitch using a tactile like above, replacing the contacts but keeping most of existing switch system but still will need a bit of modding if trying to do it properly with hairline trigger me - may as well stick to old skool if it works, fit fet and at least take out slack a little to reduce trigger pull a bit

maybe but think more a case of way way too often years ago I earn't the nickname of Mavis Beacon (teaches typing) or Sir Type-a-Lot can't imagine why ??????

Just to point out if you are upgrading your gun if you choose to increase its rof quite a bit then expect also quite a bit of wear quickly and bits wearing loose & coming adrift at higher speeds personally me thinks its just a gimmick and more to go wrong on aeg's if I want to hear clackety clack I'll put my toy gun away and dig out my old Hornby train set But whatever floats ya boat

I'm fine but think yet another laptop keyboard is on its way out so kept it to my usual short concise answer I have no idea why I go through so many keyboards ???

I'm a nooby hi-cap shake rattle n roll samba de amigo mofo But as I am now wanting to test my skills - or rather lack of some may say.... Anyway I was saying..... If I want to up the ante a little I have now started only half filling my hi-caps to appease any mid-cap mofo's who think I just spray & pray now I only half fill it to 2,500 bb's mind you pouches were a bitch to find but think I finally got it sorted: drop the sprog - mega mag pouch for box mags - though think if loaded up I may be a little unstable (nothing new there you may say)

some bigger batteries can actually lower your OWN fps I found.... lasted ages but was maybe a liitle to large & a right bitch to use as some cqb sites (soz I'll get me coat)

speedloaders not working... mainly use hi-caps but on m4 got elite force flash bastid loader though m4 only Airsoft bag - everything gets dumped... my organised chaos routine - easy answer buy 2 bags or take less crap but I start organised then 5 mins before I leave - ooh better grab that & that - uhm maybe that too etc.... Lipo's - 1 in gun and spare in gun bag pocket away from any sharp objects.... Ammo - only get mediocre ammo for my mediocre guns but would avoid buying in bulk as batches may change also some say swelling occurs especially more on bio's Innovations - think little "new" brilliant "wow" stuff emerges that often but small minor improvements or slightly better guns/equipment appear we got hpa, more guns are coming with mosfets as std, yup think many good improvements are being implemented into off shelf items now What is wrong with Airsoft - apart from moi...... uhm ergh apart from some people's attitudes at some places or media trying to whip up terrorist sport bollox..... Not much really - most stuff in this world has its faults and us old bastids will moan about most stuff like weather too hot/cold etc... if site is crap or players are nobs - try different site if gun is crap - fix it or buy a better one if you get too stressed - chill and find something or some site that don't get ya so worked up if I'm a pain in the ar$e - ergh soz, I'm done but there are a few things here n there but nothing that bad but I try not to take these toy guns too seriously - just a bit of fun for me EDIT - mega mega way way too serious ego inflated players who think they are so superior to everybody else on field and this earth yup - that gets my goat up a bit but I try to just laugh at them knowing they are a bigger pratt than me (yeah I know that is going some)

metal - plastic don't matter, if it fits great if a bit of wobble - bit of tape or velcro tape for a snug fit main thing - does it feed - as long as it works and feeds properly that is what really counts..... happy shooting

Think the weak £ to $ ain't screaming at me to buy buy buy.... what did ya get in the end ???

Just to add.... Don't get me wrong, I'm not gonna pile on the SRC hate, I'll gladly slate even G&G - their badly done DSG FH, the way their newer range of guns seem to dropping their blowback in predator & hog series. Plus other makes especially good & bad lower end guns. Don't do higher end guns just cheapo ones I don't think - and I say think as I don't know as not got one, don't think Krytac and others are absolute dog bollox parts wise walking on water leagues above most others More so they are assembled better using similar parts but they have spent time researching and test decent stuff that just works well along with other decent parts but the teal quality when they are assembled by more skilled workers rather than just slapping it all together by workers paid for piece work. G&G mosfet's had a bad reputation but think they have finally learnt not to cut costs too much or spread it to thinnly for profits. Well when something is of poor quality it can't get much worse so it has to improve eventually. There are good guns and there are bad guns, gof knows why cyma & JG still make some really nasty cheap fall apart lpeg's but they do. Me personally I can't see why most makers do at least half the little tweaks anyway, AoE for example, cylinder heads that actually seal and a better hop/bucking, if this is sorted at assembly then stuff like this would help improve quality for about $10 or $15 more, gun performs better and maybe lasts longer which results in better reviews and ratings which in turn leads to more sales and market share Soz, waffle overload again OK it might take a bit more time perhaps $20 but think it would be worth some manufacturers considering improving their guns even if they aren't that bad anyway There is always room for improvement even slight improvements may reap rewards for market share and sales I'm done me thinks... http://i.imgur.com/dD6Snj0.gif

Bought a couple from JBBG, need I say more Was lead to believe they were gen 2 boxes and full metal receivers.... Turns out they were gen 1 6mm green bushings that don't last too long, the metal used for box was poor the trigger stop snapped clean off. The gears were cheap alloy looking, the width of the sector was too narrow and when used in ak12 v3 box it crunched. They are not stocked by many retailers and yes they may have improved and maybe stopped shipping out the bad budget type 1 boxes and gone with type 3 8mm bushings/bearings now but it will take a lot for them to reclaim any ground lost. Especially difficult when Chinese cyma & JG do good bang for buck guns Also some of the SRC dragon's have a plastic gearbox in some models and metal type 1 in others, the Dragon plastic outer barrel was bent, plus still using the 2 piece hop unit - are they still using this in new models ?? OK it can be modded to put in a 1 piece hop The middle range guns weren't too bad, but think for what they were there was/are plenty of other makes that imho seemed to be a bit better built. The above experiences of mine where like nearly 2 yrs ago but I'm not itching to try another SRC M4 in the near future Dunno about AK's or G36's, some say the v3 SRC's where better than their old v2 boxes Probably have improved, but a bit late for me I'll agree on their metal rails though, very solid no wobble up front but the type 1 box is what let my m4 ris diwn

Real bad asses just use their big thick mofo beards to stop them bb's (the bb's just stop dead coz they can't touch or mess with the beard) but I'm a girl's blouse - a Hello Kitty blouse at that

BTW G&G's don't normally come with battery But yes they can be bought as an extra Lipo's are better even 7.4v Don't go mega nutz on the juice A MOSFET stops trigger contacts burning or arcing out. Good gun but G&G motors are a bit sluggish. 7.4v lipo and SHS neodym is a good upgrade

Rate Of Fire increase a smidge But no increase in fps

Owner at my local had his front tooth cracked by bb Getting shot under 6ft at Epsom right on the jaw line on the extreme edge of the full face mask tells me I will continue with better safe than sorry approach. Still looking for better comfort but I want to keep my ugly but intact looks for now

Just looks so wrong mp5k's & FireHawks with stfu suppressors sticking out get a gun with a good starting point barrel to begin with imho... G3 SAS has a 230mm barrel like a short raider - v2 box with own pistol grip (trying to get bevel-pinion on a v2 mp5 can be a little tricky) though I do like the look of a slightly longer ris with a short stubby suppressor partly sticking out instead of a rail - long outer barrel showing with suppressor at the end but that is just my personal look. I like it looking like a tightly fitted compactly designed gun but to each their own and all that but don't go nutz on a Galaxy mp5 upgrade project imho they are like many cheap starter guns don't get me wrong they are not complete $hite but like many £100 guns says SRC M4's, you soon realise you might have been better saving up a bit more for a better base gun

stick a pin in a slightly puffed lipo thinking it will let some air out - yeah that will work.... NO - don't do this split second of pure f*cking stupidity fizz fizz spark spark as I come down the stairs.... F*CK THAT - drops on floor of carpetted stairs/hallway... WOOOOOOOOF - bursts in flames OPEN THE DOOR !!! "what ????" says the missus OPEN THE F*CKING DOOR !!!! I kicked the inferno football out the front door perfectly - bloody amazing coz I suck at free kicks jeeeez - that was not funny at time plus needed to change my pants but funny looking back it - though missus still don't think so chaps when they tell you not to play with stuff like do not puncture batteries - there is a very good reason especially on lipo's but I was always the stupid one that will always have to ignore the wet paint sign - oooh yeah, that paint is still wet and the reason why Brainiac puts it the extra warning - don't try this at home No really DON'T !!!! I wanna work for brainiac - I love blowing things up - lipo's gearboxes etc......

263 to 407 is a fair jump - 263 to 307 no problem but longer barrel will require more air volume - even on a tbb the port on cylinder should be further back to increase air volume - my gut feeling is that it may be under volumed but only way is to suck it n see when it shoots - this is figure of speech btw - don't shoot your mouth off firing twice - double firing - misfeeding and other crap are slightly different problems if the gun is cycling twice then either there is a lot of juice flowing to it like 11.1v or gun's cut off lever is not operating correctly - or other problems around that area What really needs to happen is a 6ft bold warning to owners not to force the gun's trigger in semi at any point !!! There is a point where going from auto to semi the cut off lever can still be partially raised and the way most aeg's are the trigger switch trolley won't slip into position correctly coz lever is slightly raised the lever slips under trolley so it can lift and disengage on semi but it can't sometimes if can came to rest in this "dead zone" Normally just flick to auto - fire a quick burst and then it should operate in semi just dandy as it should other times it is owner releasing trigger smidge too early, the gun doesn't park correctly but stops short of its full cycle in dead zone flick to auto and don't release trigger so early on semi next time - trigger discipline etc..... If people force the trigger in this dead zone - $hit will break or wear very quickly.... the switch itself is plastic and it has ridges where the metal trigger system latches onto it, switch lifts up on semi flies back and releasing trigger will then re-latch onto it to fire again... Forcing it will wear away the small little 1.5mm to 2mm ridge at most very quickly or round the edges off and eventually trolley at least will need replacing SO DON'T F*CKING FORCE TRIGGER - not aimed at you but this is for all people who think give it a wallop will fix it - it WON'T As to your problem on it jumping - try the auto a few times and see if the gun works on semi... hopefully it was stuck on dead zone - also you have forward assist button but tbh this probably won't roll back the gun as spring shouldn't be compressed in dead zone - so the flick to auto - quick burst and try semi again if still borked, then afraid the trigger switch, cut off lever or selector plate may not be operating correctly and will need investigating which will involve gearbox - lower gearbox removal and strip down..... Strongly suggest if this is the case - fire support as they walk on water for ICS they can quickly fix the problem and probably at same time drop in a cylinder ported for the longer barrel at same time once sorted - all owners in particular new owners please learn not to force triggers stuck in dead zone and at first sign think and refire the gun before giving it extra force thinking that will sort it - it just wears or breaks the gun's trigger quicker

The gearbox is cheapy weird one... The piston runners/guides only went halfway back if that Pretty sure the hole for AK fire selector linkage wasn't threaded - yes I know you don't need it in mp5k or G36 but just saying it ain't gonna be used inside an cheap AK as a backup box.... Think it was the piston guided being so short that shocked me the most - wtf ??? The nozzles on mp5k's vary a bit think cyma mp5k's are shorter but as luck would have it think clandestine airsoft said a SHS m4 nozzle is about the right length BUT the mofo hop unit is a bit tight to allow the SHS m4 nozzle to enter it so a small widening of hop unit is needed or sanding the nozzle itself on the wider "ridge" then it enters the hop unit and seals OK. 6mm bushings in box, and not the best quiet gears, I put some spare G&G gears in one of mine coz it sounded mega rough. If it is the mp5k it has the 110 barrel and that finishes flush at front If it is the mp5m with adjustable stock or the folding stock pdw it will have the 140mm barrel in and the snout at front. If it has the snout then it should have a 140mm barrel & ccw thread on snout. If it finishes flush you will need an adapter cw-ccw I think for about £7:50 to then pop on "normal" stuff or extend barrel blah blah blah..... On top of that the hop may be unique or another hop "may" need slight altering as nozzle is longer on galaxy than say cyma mp5k's though don't quote this as gospel as I have kept stock hop unit. The poxy tight battery problem is a pain with many mp5k's a number of batteries can be tight fit and limit your options plus on the mofo mp5m with ris it has to unscrew to fit battery -jeeeez what a pain You could maybe wire it so the battery connectors are at back of gearbox but there is very very little room at rear of gun and think if doing this the best compact connectors to use would be mini deans which take up very little space compared to small tamiya or regular deans As two_zero says, it is a cheap qwirky gun and think it has its limits like many cheap n cheerful guns. Not one to upgrade loads, you will change so much and still just a Galaxy mp5k that even going nutz is never gonna dominate at range - them titchy guns will always have wider groupings coz they are designed for cqb or sniper backup etc.... Phew - use it with maybe a few tweaks for what it is but keep in mind it has its limits compared to better brands Unless you really enjoy a challenge Think a service, neo motor and maybe a fet but room is tight - best look carefully at rewire options like fet by hop and tiny mini deans by rear of box - still a bit of work. But that would be about the Max I'd take it tbh Ps the trigger pull length is enormous ffs - jeez some trigger modding required on that v3. Yeah have a big rethink and at most just a few minor tweaks but no crazy time or money should be spent imho Give a sec and no doubt somebody will chime in with a hpa mod but me - ergh nah I'd get a G3 95 or something Mine might have been 6mm metal bushings in later guns but they may have used plastic bushings in earlier guns (can't remember off top of my head but a stock pic I grabbed to show such short piston guides - bloody short guides)

Have deffo noticed difference in the "zest" or response in 20, 25 & 30c lipo's too If a battery says 25-50c I have been told take it as 25c BTW On a stock 18:1 setup 7.4v with a mental neodym... 30c can double fire on a 350fps full stroke setup 25c can over-run a little pre-cocking but single shot 20c will behave itself better. RPS wise we are talking aprox 1 to maybe 1.5rps increase per extra 5c's eg: 21 on 20c to 24+rps on 30c Please note this aprox as it was noticed on different boxed/guns with a mix of bushings & bearings in most But if a lipo says 30c - its 30c If I says 25c-50c take it as 25c not something in between If you want 30 or 35 then get one that says 35c on it I like zippy compact ones they seem to perform very well and usually are a smidge smaller than turnigy lipo's of same spec. Got a few zippys 2200mah 25c plus some others that have provided quite a bit of punch when required Not really tried much beyond 30c Kong one Well that is my lipo experience except blowing one up in the house

You cold callous murderer - am now doing a minutes silence. That's all, just one minute I'm gonna shut up for then back to G&G waffle waffle G&G waffle waffle etc...

If you got a $hit stock ferrite motor you need more juice to get to 20rps. Neodym motor 7.4v lipo can hit 20+ quite easily if done properly Actually 30 on 12:1 gears - think I've been through all this Plus big battery needs more space etc... Nimah's suck imho