Sitting Duck

my wife: Mrs Duck from Dartford 2013 I love the title " Wild Ride " wheeeyy heeey down boyy phwarrrrr

She is the boss, the brains, the peacemaker, my soulmate I just go with the flow - It is a partnership and all that crap besides - nobody in my house takes a blind bit of notice of me they all go to mum - I only get asked/informed of stuff, so that if/when it goes wrong Well we did tell/ask you about it.....

7.4v lipo 25c or 30c 13:1 will get you about 26 - 27 on VERY THICK 16 awg wire, mosfet deans etc.... 12:1 will get you near 30's....... additional boosts depend on using very fast torquey motors like Big Dragon M160 SHS torque is not quite as fast but close and easier to get hold of other crazy motors like G&P Satan I can't comment on not even got a Lonex motor Speed motors get very very hot pushing past m100 springs - so don't think of a shs high speed some torque motors are not much faster than stock ferrite motors but designed for pulling crazy mofo springs m150+ even frankentorque motors are not ultra quick - just ultra strong bushings are a must in high rof but will be slower than bearings - 5 to 8% ceramics offer speed & strength but jeez not cheap and still mofo builds need bushings under spur gear the choice of neodym motor can make a big difference but it can only unleash its full power if all the wiring homework is done - often a dremmel to squeeze in thick wire the box will just die quicker - much quicker unless you get EVERYTHING as close to perfection as possible (not easy) plus after all that crap - you can still find it feeds crap coz it needs a stiffer tappet spring to load bb's quicker etc.... it is a MASSIVE learning curve and no I am no expert - just broke LOADS taking the pi$$ if you wanna go nutz - do it in stages is my advice read: http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/legacys-guide-building-high-speed-aeg-87504/ go easy and take your time try to learn to walk before you try and run later builds will be much better than your first few attempts - well mine were $hite overcoming problems - learning from mistakes etc.... airsoft teching is no way as easy as them youtube vids look and still I think there is a sprinkle of luck required (or loads of luck in mine & many others builds)

Behind every good man - stands a good woman... And behind every good woman - stands another man clocking her ar$e I just call my wife - Yes Dear

oooh heck - I don't reckon your one.... so don't get too drunk tonight or you might wake up with something you may regret

12:1 gears SS 3 or 4 teeth can get about 30rps on 7.4v lipo if done well with a m115/120 get into 40's on 11.1v and with a 3or4 SS setup you got volume for most barrels to lift stuff dsg can or should start at near 40 or what's the point ??? the faster gun cycles in general more friction/heat/wear/strain mini hammer drills banging away etc.... plus faster you go - more of your mag collection won't feed so well unless high quality hi caps or mid-caps trust me it is not easy getting a gun to fire faster but still shoot well AND last http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/25944-g-g-fire-hawk-firehawk-hc05-dsg/#entry194945 its bollox and I know it won't last so only been out once or twice for giggles I stick in mid 20's usually

how fast do you really wanna go (please don't say trigger response coz you can always get gun precocking) 20 is average to good rof 30 is going some 40 is everybody on a UK field calling you a show off or a c**t yes it can be done but m140/150 spring - dmr mofo or mega short stroke/dsg bollox ???

yup I'd say so or shs torque but jeez wtf you wanna buy them expensive mofo's for ? think shs 12:1 would do and if not enough go for 11.1v Seigtek 10:1 are 10.44 actual ratio SHS 12:1 are 12.65:1 and should assist in getting the balance right (good response without the motor's nutz falling off) plus shs motor + shs gears mesh very nicely together

FFFFFFFffffffforget Yoda... its Neo from the Matrix: ps - luv the shades

I like the mini or stubby fixed stocks as not a long armed gorilla myself fixed stocks mean almost any battery can go in there even a mars bar on full stock when you change to crane stock then you need thin stick or nunchuck batteries and if going for magpul type or the G&G GOS-V1 or V2 the battery goes in stock tube (which really limits battery options) but nicey nicey adjustable stocks so you can't always have it all

From the sounds of it you got a M4 carbiney thingy majigy poohs 363mm barrel- ish running to rear with maybe a full size stock - black or painted 2-tone ??? if that is the case on the rear stock part you will need stock tube and then magpul copy or crane adjustable stock I think if the full size stock is a tad too long then a stubby M4 stock perhaps - but still be a 363mm front end not much wrong with that though normally you may have a stubby-ier m4 using up to a 275/300 barrel max still don't matter - its your gun do what you like..... But like I said the front end can/could be a ball-ache like jcheeseright said plus the adapting of the rear end too..... if its actually working even in its thrown together mish mash form - so what ? if anything - see if you can get some of the other bits n bobs running or flog the bits and save time/money getting another starter gun that nearly ticks all your boxes know your limits, learn what you can easily change and more importantly what you can not (or in other words - don't make a bigger headache for yourself) post a pic up - seriously its gotta be better than my Bulldog B500A1 it sounds like an old R20 or R21 - made by Well which me thinks is a low end JG brand of M4

wait until it is all up n running and handguard sorted - see what room ya got tbh - cheap ris or something might be a consideration as ak2m4 charges very modest shipping but that might entail rewiring to rear or a peq box etc..... see how you go, get her functioning ok, and by then you may have a good idea on what your next step might be

Big Dragon - cheapy china parts most is semi-crap to ok-ish, m160 motors are the bollox though the handguard is a clone of pts magpul only thing is getting the exact length right or it won't fit/clip together without some modding of guard or front ring in fact be prepared for little modding up towards the top front where sight might be you will need to fit a front sight on the outer barrel there are ones that bolt on or small front sight rail rather than the pins running through other types of barrel on fleabay have about 4 sections so you can make a number of outer length options just be prepared for a little modding if changing classic m4 carbine handguard to magpul type might get lucky but the APROX 7" really can vary a LOT your best bet is to post a pic of ya gun + some info n stuff others can give you an honest opinion of what's what some guns/receivers can be a ball ache to change front ends think Mr B had a cyma that didn't like some threads and a couple of others have had to "persuade" some stuff to fit so there comes a time when you weigh up where ya start/stop especially if a cosmetic look is gonna be a bollock-ache and offer little improvement in actual real term use if you know what I mean... sod what it looks like - you could get another gun along the lines of what you wish and keep that funny ol' thing as a backup/spare

mid caps don't need winding Well there are some smaller mags that are still a wind-up type but in general terms think mid caps holding up to say 120-140 are non-wind type (I call the others small capacity high caps) low caps - non wind-up with 30bb's for real mil sims mid caps - think they start at about 80 and go up to 120-140 (cyma do make a 190rd metal M4 mid cap but not stocked everywhere) the above are filled with speed-loaders in use - you should get all or nearly all bb's feeding nigh on no problem - but shorter supply so make shots count plus learn to count of course.... Hi caps - usually 300 to 450-ish can start as low as 190-ish and suppose you could go nutz up to 1k or even 5k box mag they need winding up by hand after say 15 shots aprox - varies on how good mag is silly box mag have the options of electric winding blah blah blah if mag doesn't have enough tension the bb's don't feed so you dry fire jack $hit (or if you try to insert an M4 in completely upside down and wonder why you ain't hitting anything) depends on you and the actual game you are playing 2 x 300 mags actually means about 500 or a bit less coz they never feed last 50 or so in mag but if you got pouches then 5 x 120 midcaps will probably be same if not better higher speed guns need very very good hi caps - most are not great at silly speeds or most half decent midcaps feed very well in silly speed guns - obviously not for spray n pray players plus the maraca effect on shakey shakey hi cap mags when running tbh - it don't matter unless the serious mil-sim site states low/mid caps only messing about use either suppose the mid cap offers ease of use to the more experienced player making their shots count but wtf - use what works for you - most have both types/spares that floats their own boats

Ya gun is front wired so you gotta go with that for now Maybe it could be rewired to rear but tbh any mega upgrades save for another gun.

Guns guns guns guns - where to begin....... main choices - there are more but the main choices and MY pro's con's M4 easy to use, ergonomic, mags and other bits easy to get 300 to 450 hi caps but blow me not another M4 especially with white CM that G&G put on their Combat Machines G36c - good little all rounder, ambidextrous selector switch (lefties & peeking left etc) higher mags 470 can't comment on cons coz not used mine as a tad hot until I tweak/break it AK's often the airsoft version can kick many a similar M4's ar$e, higher mags 500 world's most famous gun but damn it - I just can't seem to love the fire select - I just fumble my way - think undoing a bra one handed is easier (not that I wear them that much) MP5's - hmmmm me personally not a great fan but only got mp5k's (cheap nasty ones at that) its the mags that put me off but many on here love them other odd/special/unique guns/less common guns - L85, Tar, ARX160, G3 etc... always check out mags, parts & reviews first before buying often a fair amount of people stick with more common guns the novelty may wear off, they think nah I like my old ak/m4 etc..... G&G are the Fords of airsoft M4's - bloomin' everybody has got one luckily they do a very extensive range but still common as muck still they sell $hitloads of them so they can't be complete piles of $hit They ain't perfect but a very good starter gun - not an unwise purchase at all G&G's starter range is the Combat Machine - with white CM on side of the polymer receiver - good polymer receiver imho 30th edition is metal/partly metal and has a subtle 30th on receiver avoid a blow-back model - just more $hit to go wrong imho, normal G&G M4 starter will do ya M4 Carbine 357mm or 300mm comando/lite version Raider - long 357mm or short 233mm GC16 - 330mm barrel CM18 - 275MM (i think) oh sod it - look here for the range http://guay2.com/web/airsoft_gc.php?lang=en#aeg_banner ICS are also very very nice - see firesupport.co.uk for ICS guns JG & Cyma do great starters too mainly JG for G36 & Cyma for AK's

ok for cqb backup - but little power/range AEP's hit 200fps at best - gas about 300-ish if it gets to somebody further away they may not feel it easily electric works even in very cold weather can be lipo'd but if they break they can be fiddly to fix most use gas guns - if you are on a very very low budget...... read this http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/22839-first-gun-help-pistol/

GAT air pistols - cor blimey that brings back memories echo one's GAT - hmmm not drawn to it myself - make sure you can get mags for it or the spectre mofo's http://www.airsoftworld.net/echo-1-gat-full-metal-general-assault-tool-aeg-airsoft-gun-jp-103.html

tbh - the green looks like puke green or zombie green the worst colour is vivid orange - that really sticks out if ya like camo then get a base tan/cyote/dark earth/olive gun add ya own touches here n there but in general tan/brown blends better than black but tbh consider the gun itself rather than the colour/2-tone scheme (its ya first gun - get one that will do ya proud rather than colour - girls/sheila's do that ultra colour crap) everybody has their favourites opinions are like ar$eholes - everybody has one no I ain't saying get this or that but a few considerations.... http://www.airsoftworld.net/g-g-gc16-30th-anniversary-limited-edition-aeg-airsoft-rifle-black.html http://www.airsoftworld.net/g-g-gc16-30th-anniversary-limited-edition-aeg-airsoft-rifle-dark-earth.html the 2-tone snake-skin looks different - unsure if it fully ticks the 51% coverage but they sell it it has been mentioned the effect can ahem "wear" off easily..... the tan looks horrible but if it wore off after a few months it could be ok to add ya own scheme maybe pistol - cheap starter one: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/22839-first-gun-help-pistol/ but you don't HAVE to have a pistol ffs.... you may be a little different if you have some experience but many newcomers - that still includes me... have enough trouble getting to grips with an AEG and pistol/rubber knife/bfg's and $hitloads more stuff just confuses them more most newbie hire peeps don't walk out on field kitted out to f*ck they just got an old aeg that been used more than an old whore tatty but safe full face mask, overalls that might have seen a wash last year maybe a bag/bottle of bb's so they sound like their shaking maracas playing samba de amigo and that is it..... chill a little - have a look around, don't rush to buy anything yet definately not a sniper and maybe wait for ukara for pistol - then get a nice RIF one when ya ready

general stuff - flogg to anybody anything that fires bb's though: 2-tone - buyer must be 18+ RIF - buyer MUST hold a valid defense eg: reg on ukara database (and 18+ as you have to be 18+ anyway to be entered on ukara database) just in case a spotty 12yr old gives you the old flannel he is ukara# SWAT1234567890 it can be checked by them informing you of their ukara details + postcode where they live/lived when obtaining defense http://www.loissoftware.co.uk/ukara/selfcheck/index.asp it isn't perfect the self check but YOU need to carry out some checks or to avoid any comebacks not gonna start a ukara war but it is what we & the sport abide by to protect it a little from looney regulators/politicians seeking to ban it if it sounds bollox see: http://news.sky.com/story/1613520/cleveland-cops-cleared-in-tamir-rice-shooting still a lot of kickback buzzing around RIF's - Realistic Imitation Firearm especially should be sold responsibly we haven't had a shooting in UK - YET but with heighten security more armed police and possible shoot to kill carry out a some checks please or if you are not sure ask a question on here or pm a mod 2-tone, payment via paypal and a note stating 18+ is usually what most request yes a kid can get hold of daddy's card but a 2-tone poses less lethal risk imho than a RIF but still seek something to state a 2-tone is sold to a 18+, just to cover ya ar$e hence why we are protective over our sport please ensure any airsoft guns are sold to responsible adults with valid defense (this also includes trades/swapping airsoft guns) if it is lame ar$e Just BB Gun 2-tone plinker half broken - you won't get much anyway for it (best off smashing it up and taking it down the dump) phew - hope this answers ya questions can't flogg airsoft guns on fleabay - some do but it is forbidden all other stuff can be flogged on there - just not guns officially

yeah but they buy them from ak2m4 - kidding might get a set in new year in case I get a FFR/SR for birthday near Easter

ouch on G&G dis but agree with ya last bit.... lol - ya right it does right, I'm off to Asda to get some more accessories in their year end sale 3for2 etc...

not got the SR or FFR new range of G&G's the SR and perhaps the FFR is metal keymod so presume it would be nice if a small single metal rail could/should be provided The GC16 30th edition comes with a few small mini rails to mount onto the front wired handguard so I would of thought what with the cheapo cm515 coming with cheapo rails pre-fitted I thought some makes including G&G SR Range would of just chucked one in but obviously I was wrong to assume that

The holes/slots "seem" to be spaced about 20mm I think when I did a quick measure all the same - they "could" chuck in 1 rail as a sweetener - hey its xmas