Sitting Duck

Ere just a quick thought... Didn't buy this from GunFire ??? They had a G&G shipment in recently and their guns are direct worldwide imports Plus they are usually a bit more pricey on G&G's than UK G&G's I've found Cyma JG plus some others yes GunFire n Taiwangun are places to but from with free downgrade But G&G they always seemed a bit more than what you can get combat machines for in UK But would explain such a hot mofo FH Edit - hmmm according to GF their FH's are 320ish http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152205604-Fire-Hawk-carbine-replica.html Yet quite a few of their other G&G's say 400fps Hmmmm the mystery continues......

Also that is a tiny little less fps drip per 0.05gms than expected... Normally I have found 30 to 40fps drop per 0.05 or 0.20 vs 0.25's but every gun is different Plus long or very short barrels produce odd fps gains or slight loss on short pdw lengths Is it your chrono or some site's chrono And what does same mag in the GC16 30th say ??? Soz just trying to check all possible things first Heck even quirky chrono or dying battery inside it or something. G&G's are "normally" pretty good in UK So kinda wondering how this hot momma came about

2nd one is the HC05 dual sector no semi firehawk and that is around 270fps in Germany to 310 max in UK box even says under 1 joule The muzzle velocity bit is kinda generic copy/paste from most of their guns...... (plus HC05 has 9mm ceramics - crap ceramics in there not 8mm bronzey bushing or bearings) To get a normal FireHawk at 378+ is going some - I wonder where you got it from ??? coz that has gotta a hefty spring in there to push that out on a titchy barrel I believe you but reckon that was an import for possible USA or worldwide sites On the box label there is about 3 or 4 boxes and exact model numbers I'd say you got a mofo m125 spring or something in there destined for yanks or something or they made a major major balls up at factory plus every seal is near as damn it etc etc..... I doubt if it is the HC05 - but put it in semi and see if fires one single shot if it goes full auto on semi it is the dsg hc05 but I think it is a conventional ssg fh for usa Sacarathe though has a slightly slighty hot CM18 from LWA but only a smidge over or TWA would not allow him to play Actually his MP5K is just a hairline over too Lucky so & so - most of my G&G's are 320-330 but speak to retailer or something.

f*ck it - pic says 1,000 words: poxy pic wouldn't copy over so had to upload to imgur crap others pics were a bit too far back and tappet cam could be starting to pull back tappet plate (bit of resistance or risk of damage - ics good design but not completely fool proof) maybe perhaps a tiny tiny bit more backwards but just a smidge to ensure last tooth is a whisker more clear of piston = perfection oh and make something idiot proof... Life then creates a better idiot as you guessed the teeth was starting to reappear so tappet cam was shifting to say 1 or 12 o'clock and as you clipped box back you was feeling the tappet or rather the tappet spring's resistance pulling the tappet backwards Wait until you open your first normal gearbox and springs n gears n $hit shoot EVERYWHERE !!!!!

You need to have the sector's gears at the bottom and the tappet cam/lug at about 2 o'clock (on a normal gearbox) But being an ICS m4 v2 gearbox is split what you should be aiming for is last tooth on sector gear dissappeared so that it has fully released piston - in this state the teeth on sector gear sit at 10 to 4 and cam for tappet is at 3 o'clock That way the tappet cam is nowhere near tappet at all..... Yes as long as no sector gear's teeth are showing you can clip the gearbox back together but if the teeth are just starting to come around again - say sector's teeth at 20 to 2 o'clock then the tappet cam is nearly at 12 o'clock and will be showing a fair bit of resistance so ideally get teeth showing - then you should be able to pull the sector's teeth backwards to rear of box until last tooth disappears This should be at 10 to 4 and as long as no teeth are showing upwards then the 2 piece v2 box will plop back together with no tappet grief uhm - hope this kinda makes sense - yes 1/4 to 3 will be ok too but past that point the tappet is starting to get pulled back This was probably a bit of resistance if you was say 20 to 2 o'clock

you mean this: https://www.justbbguns.co.uk/product/544/RECON-GUNS/448/2-TONE-BB-GUNS/2261/SRC-M4-RIS-RECON-AIRSOFT-GUN I bought that and though it wasn't quite a completely crap gun - the seller deffo is pure utter $hite btw I really saw a big difference when buying a G&G or ICS in the build quality Assuming you get ukara'd - you can ahem wear the 2-tone off a snakeskin vcra gun from airsoftworld quite easily I've been told a Zero One free 2-tone job is coated on there but does wear if you happen to spill by pure accident some Fairy Power Spray (though it don't wear that easy so a few accidents-leave to soak-scrub & repeat etc is required to get off Z1's coating but have done it) SRC - DEFFO NOT WISE Have bought many cheapy guns - many suck loads hence reason most of us push G&G Raider - plenty of rails and a pretty nicely built starter gun ICS are very nice too but their sportsline range isn't as as extensive as the common G&G CM range of guns Yes everybody has them but it is because they are good safe bet starter gun to start out with heck even to keep as a spare backup gun as people's collections grow Higher end G&G's - hmmmm there are other makes to consider but doubt if you could get a better gun for £150 new in UK Factor in shipping & customs from USA - which will happen - buy a new UK G&G is best advice

for a split second I thought it was gonna be another TH's G&G highly rated posting though running a stock gun on 12v pc psu is a fun way to wreck a gun need a long extension lead if gonna go skirmishing though

SMG's might be ok but very few will have any decent range/grouping with a 110/140mm barrel yeah you might get it shooting better with tweaks but not out of box ok for cqb but out in woodland in medium-long range gunfights you will find it won't perform quite as expected 230mm min barrel length imho if going outside I would suggest - eg: short raider or ak74 or g36c etc..... yup somebody will chime in in with a Glock GBB or something..... But in general I'd suggest for a first gun an aeg with 230mm+ barrel upwards rather than smg

stock std 18,000rpm G&G motors are quite lame indeed ICS's stock guns shoot a bit quicker on stock motors even G&G's called blue "Powerful Motor" are only a slight improvement over stock std G&G ferrites put any half decent neodym motor in and the difference is wow wtf etc.... not too nutz juice required or replacement pistons n stuff required Stateside they might love 11.1v but they are usually pulling m120/130 springs and want crazy high rof Us lot lower fps, 7.4v & a decent neodym at some point will usually do ya proud 20's is plenty up to 30rps if ya want to tweak - any more and people are over compensating for something (and like breaking guns)

buy a £123 short raider from Zero One 2-toned free

Agree - get a 7.4v min 20c to 25c burst and that will be plenty..... if people buy s/hand 8.4v nimah's that hold f*ck all charge then perhaps you could have trouble with duff battery but decent 7.4v lipo 25c will pull plenty I mean you could use 11.1v as it has a fet on a stock motor but if you ever change motor you could smash that box to bits on 11.1v + neodym Only reason G&G or retailer might suggest 11.1v is coz their motors are still a bit lame

Fixed stubby stock for mars bar batteries or Full fixed for lunch & lipo

Nah - shot to sh*t in the back hurts at close range I mean go nutz on somebody is one thing... But in the back - safe zone - hpa = way ott Wonder if the 15yr old would of punished a 6ft 18yr old the same way for burnish his patch ??? yeah - me thinks not - spineless spiteful c*nt DMR the dude in the nutz and see if he think that don't hurt that much plus remember that America often has fps limits a bit higher than we have.... 30+ bb's in the back with little padding - that is gonna sting quite a bit +1 for Sacarathe.... F*cking frightening that that tw*t could soon buy a real firearm.... God help any poor bastid that prangs his nice new car daddy buys him.... A very worrying thought when you look at it like that edit - getting way too carried away - most unlike me

yup but just remember my dumbass dog enjoying the snow many moons ago..... Snowball - here boy - look look look - get it boy - throw.... Dog sits there and wonders where the f*ck that white ball went in all that snow....

Dogs are great dumbasses in snow - throw a snowball up they catch it in their mouths then think.... where the f*ck did that go ????? not snow related but sure as dumb as f*ck.... http://i.imgur.com/L9aIsow.gif

Let's get the Mall one out of the way first.... There's been numerous attempts for a meet up but this is first time it has started to come together But yeah could do a Sussex meet up say about Easter as I'm not too far away

ask your site is the true correct answer Somebody - a regular player got his ukara on his 18th Birthday technically on your 18th birthday - you are 18 - well yeah dooohh but also you have played 3 games (if you have played them of course) I don't think it clearly states that you have to have played 3 games whilst you was 18yrs old but more like 18 and have played 3 games blah blah blah......... Therefore = regular player from 17.75yrs old & turning 18 you "could" be eligible to be entered on database but all down to site - they could be picky and demand this n that I guess - it is their recommendation & form processing etc....

At the very least - play one game ffs You might end up hating it - unlikely but you might. Also sites do vary a bit too - some are more serious & others less (safety is still high priority) So as you have never even played - COD & Youtube will only give you a rough idea Actually trying to play is a LOT different than you could begin to imagine Apart from all that, you will be running around like you haven't got a clue covered in sweat & mud plus apart from all that you will have to quickly work as a team with people you have never met before Most of them will be quite friendly but you will experience a few to$$ers and not all people play the same way either So with all that in mind - you will be thrown into a place of saddo's with toy guns that you have never met before You will be expected to take your hits and call yourself out - just do it even if you are not sure & ignore the non-hitakers Leave your ego at home and play for fun trying to enjoy yourself...... Now after your first game, if you and your parents are ok with you getting shot to $hit (well at least you getting out for a full day of crazy exercise, trying to act responsible & mature etc...) Then THEY could consider buying YOU a 2-tone gun at some point...... Do not under any circumstances think that you can get by with a JBBG for about £70 - £80 (you really will regret it and the resale value if it doesn't break is sweet F*ck All - but bet it breaks) Besides the guns from a site with BB in like JustBBGuns or BBguns4less are usually very poor (yes some guns are ok but there is a lot of crap they sell to noobs and younger first time players) If you do eventually decide to buy - well your parents for that matter you will need to spend around £150+ a good starter gun like G&G or ICS starts at about £120+ but then you got battery/charger/mask/bb's etc..... Some possible good decent starter packs to consider..... http://www.fire-support.co.uk/category/starter-packs-clear-bb-gun/ or http://airsoftzone.co.uk/airsoft-guns/starter-packs This seems to offer good value for money plus 2 mags - not brilliant mags but 2 mags all the same.... http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ics-m4-commando-clear-starter-pack-aeg-airsoft-gun-set You might be able to pick up a decent s/hand starter but you need to know what you are buying All the same you gotta get out there, test the water to see if YOU and more importantly if your parents are ok with this Then if you get your own gun - it is a big outlay but as long you keep it simple you can keep the ongoing costs quite low eg: walk on fee say £25 for a game each fortnight plus a £10 bag of bb's which should see you ok for 2 or 3 full game days so say £30 each game you play...... But deffo play a game or two before splashing out..... Youngsters have many things going on in their lives - exams, girls, going out & growing up etc.... But if you & your family are loaded - the wtf go for it - just be careful if money is tight trying to pursue another 5 min wonder

Well first you would have to be 18+ (you have to be 18 or over to buy a 2-tone gun) Next it is down to seller to satisfy themselves the adult purchaser has a valid defense Yes UKARA is not the only defense but it is the most widely accepted and easiest to verify (UKARA retailers have direct access to the UKARA database - a more up to date than the self check ukara) The seller has to decide if the buyer passes the vcra requirements or they themselves may face action and/or their own ukara being revoked A gun membership does NOT clearly pass the actual requirements just because a person holds a valid firearms license or a member of armed forces that does not entitle them to purchase a RIF Kind of crazy if you already own a real friggin' gun locked away in gun case but going 101% by the vcra book it does not guarantee you the right to purchase a RIF airsoft toy gun (though I would reckon most retailers may at least consider it if joining a airsoft skirmish site and avoid 3 game waiting) JBBG - they are clowns at best often selling to kids & noobs quite $hit guns at daft prices often is the first place newcomers buy from - quickly learning it will be the last place on earth they will buy from again JambWow talks more bollox than me - so I wouldn't hold your breath coz he is fluent in 101% pure bull$hit Join a club - do 3 games and then buy from a decent retailer rather than some clown talking out of his ar$e (Jambwow btw - I talk out my ar$e but I'm a pratt not some chubby clown liar bastid) As for member of shooting club.... my m8 has 30 years experience in IT but as he is a delivery driver & teaboy for PC World - he is the last person to ask about computer problems

Bollox scrap that idea..... Different motors think the TAR is a short motor And Krytac would be using long motor Ah well it was just a thought.... Soz

TBH the 16:1 gears don't make that much difference... Stock 18:1 are actually 18.65-18.75:1 16:1 gears are in fact around 17.25:1 So they are only about 8% quicker Well in actual fact you may as well say 7% As there is a slightly slightly slower start using higher speed gears - 12:1's are never a full 50% faster than stock on their own So gears are finest 16:1 The main thing is just how much stronger the Lonex A2 is compared to which stock motor.... Eg: crappy basic G&G red ferrite vs ICS stock motor... G&G does say 12-13, ICS seems to get near 15 rps Some Neodym's vary a LOT too... M140 motor is just stronger but not really much faster than a good stock ferrite -just capable of pulling higher springs. Don't think the Lonex A2 is as mental as the A1 or A1 supreme but I ain't got Lonex motors myself So can't confirm 101% I'm afraid However you could go nutz with 16:1 MOSFET deans rewire and stick on a average ferrite Keep Lonex for Krytac perhaps.... Doing some maths on a ferrite... Stock 13rps on ferrite motor Redo with 16:1 gets to 14 Redo further with deans n fet etc.. 16.25 Now if you get a figure on stock rps... Multiply that figure by 1.25 So if so just shove in a Lonex A2 If that is like a SHS torque then expect a 1.33333 from motor alone So placing motor gets you to 17.3333 then leave it But tbh like I said see about a not too crazy neo or good ferrite then redo box with gears n fet What might be worth a look is maybe try the A2 in Krytac See which is more crazy.... Then take the slightly slower motor for ya rebuild And ya Krytac has an upgraded motor too.... Hope some of this bollocks helps a little bit

HobbyKing is great but the buyer has to do a bit more homework/research themselves..... There is a LOT of battery options - some at very cheap prices but have to check the dimensions Yes they do some airsoft batteries - though the airsoft batteries they sell are limited in burst rating = C and some of them are 166mm long which is too long for crane stocks - aprox 125-ish for crane stocks diameters also vary - G&G cranes are a bit narrow 18mm max tubes - others have a diameter in tube of 22mm MP5k's - jeeeeeeez they are like 17.999999mmm diamter and a number of single stick batteries are f*cking tight If the buyer measures their battery compartment - and I STRONGLY advise checking by making up a dummy battery from cardboard, sticky back plastic washing up bottle or something ffs to triple check.... Then they "may" find they can get a small compact block type battery which is a bit cheaper and more mah than HobbyKing's Airsoft ones Also buyer beware you can easily order 1 battery from UK and another battery/charger from HongKong If UK are out of stock - next place is to get them from EU (Netherlands) in fact last time I checked HobbyKing Airsoft batteries come from HongKong or EU - not sold on HobbyKing UK Yes an Imax B6 (genuine) is a good mofo charger but will need psu unless you buy the B6 AC version plus if on mini tamiya you may need to get some adapter leads to charge the mini tamiya lipo on a B6 hence for ease of use the B3 type is a lot easier to use out of box no matter what connector your gun uses on lipo's So for an ease of life - component shop if buying in bulk loads and upgrading - HobbyKing but do ya homework properly first

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1450mah-25c-continuous-discharge-cranestock-lipo-battery.html YOU WANT MINI-TAMIYA CONNECTOR BTW - GET 2 BATTERIES BTW http://www.componentshop.co.uk/1000ma-1500ma-li-po-li-fe-charger-for-2s-3s-lipo-life-battery-packs-complete-with-psu.html These are some options and better than buying an old skool nimah battery & crappy basic smart charger. You could go nutz and get a Imax B6 and other lipo's from hobbyking for example.... You can squeeze a longer 160mm twin stick lipo in the front handguard but the batteries listed should fit easy and provide a decent punch

DMR - you got quick change spring so go back to aeg when you get the hump option Sniper - bolt action is what mofo's go for, will cost time & money and you are stuck with a sniper (or sell it, shelve it etc.....) I'd test the water with DMR first and see how you get on