Sitting Duck

Geezers Only Ladies F*ck off (well something like that) who in their right mind whacks a ball 150yards (still further than a bb travels) then walks after it and hits it again.... repeat above last line all day I like the 19th hole idea though

each of them 6 or 7 cells are 1.2v each cell is aprox 18mm in diameter and 30mm in length so in effect you have a stock battery of about 90mm x 18mm x 36mm (2x18mm) the connector is called small or mini tamiya (there is a large tamiya but mainly used for RC and jumbo airsoft guns) The size is an aprox guess of your battery dimensions, depends what might lay best up front usually the wires can just be tucked up on top of battery in handguard As I explained YOU and you alone have to check before ordering up anything it sounds daft but even with digital calipers nothing beats getting something similar size and doing a final check that it fits in there ok - with a little room to spare buy a battery that 1mm too big and you will be struggling or forcing it in which isn't wise so have a look around on various sites/ebay for a nice size lipo also consider getting 2 x batteries - one may do you ok especially if 2000mah but depending on trigger happy or not - its a pi$$er running out of juice 3/4 way through ya day (most just swap battery at lunchtime) besides if ya paying for postage of 1 battery then may as well see if you can run to a spare chargers - can get a B3 type charger for about £12 to £15 (little slower to charger but easy to use and just plug into mains - no psu required for most of them) or a B6 genuine for about £20 from hobbyking nearly all B6's on fleabay will be fakes - often they aren't too bad but clones can over charge - not good read up on lipo common safety sense - they are very powerful so ffs don't be a dumbass and go and puncture them like some ar$ehole did (moi btw) they are f*cking dangerous if they get damaged !!!! Arnie in Terminator 3 obviously ran on Lipo's have fun not wishing to $hit you up, but showing them warnings/precautions are all about

first off you gotta measure ya battery space..... then armed with that you can order up a battery if you have a crane stock - battery in rear check the tubes so you can get a 2 stick nunchuk type battery if your gun is front wired check what can squeeze under handguard/barrel area some hanguards can squeeze in a thin but slightly longer 166mm battery rather than say a 140mm long battery type most "stick" batteries are about 18mm diameter by ooh ergh depends on gun often 135/140mm is about length available.... but other guns may take longer stick batteries - especially single stick ones eg: ak's & mp5k's though some can be a tight fit so like I say measure up, make some rough test shapes to see if stock/handguard closes ok then you can work out what your options are...... this should fit - note SHOULD but only 1200mah http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=44772 charger: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31467__IMAX_B6_50W_5A_Charger_Discharger_1_6_Cells_GENUINE_EU_Warehouse_.html note this is a little more expensive from EU but if buying battery from EU you may as well save on shipping cost for a uk b6 charger you may need to get psu and some adapter if sticking on tamiya connectors other battery options: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idProduct=84544 but is a bit long at 168mm plus deans connector http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31977__ZIPPY_Compact_2200mAh_2S_25C_Lipo_Pack_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=ZIPPY%20COMPACT - xt60 connectors - cut & replace with deans but may only fit in some front wired handguards there are $hitload of options but first you gotta check where ya battery is and what space you got to play with..... or if going old skool: http://www.componentshop.co.uk/batteries/airsoft your gun ???? if this your gun - battery up front measure old block battery - might be able to get a slightly longer one in there but see how tight it is and what room ya got - as actress said to the bishop reason I asked/posted pic is coz sometimes people say I got a G&G CM16...... yeah what bloody one coz there's all sorts/variations out there plus they may have misquoted exact model

batteries: Lipo - 7.4v or 11.1v (2 cells of 3.7v or 3 cells - max charge of 4.2v) so a fresh 7.4v comes off charge at 8.4v 11.1v can be 12.6v :0 LiFe - similar to lipo but cells are 3.3v people use 3 cell - 9.9v but tbh don't bother LiFe's are not all they are cracked up to be imho the range/size/capacity is limited compared to Lipo's The above 2 types have a burst or C rating what is a decent battery is say 7.4v 20 or 25c - no lower if it says 15-25c it is 15c really I have been told chargers for lipo's are cheapy B3 type charging through balance lead or B6 type that can charge all types of batteries - but buy a Genuine B6 original battery was probably a 1200-1500mah 8.4v nimah these are old skool and they don't hold charge over time often old nimah's lose charge very quickly so don't go nutz buying lots of s/hand ones and don't pay loads on new nimah's either lipo's kick ass - even 7.4v to obtain max modest performance from batterys a possible option is to replace tamiya with deans connector on gun+battery easy to do if you can solder - maybe 10 min mod if iron up to temp ffs do NOT cut both leads at same time - cut 1 lead - solder, cut other solder (remember shrink wrap before soldering) see youtube on fitting deans connectors this mod will improve response/rate of fire by aprox 10% or at least 1 rps aprox tamiya - especially small tamiya creates a bit of resistance and restricts the flow to motor component shop or hobby king for getting stuff cheap measure what space you got in gun subtract a few mm's to allow for leads buy genuine B6 charger about £20, can use old laptop psu or buy a psu cheapy lipo's start from about £7:50 in the block form or they do "airsoft" batteries too at hobbyking but think they come from Hong Kong or EU/Netherlands for airsoft be careful where in world you order from if using hobbyking - they do most stuff from UK if ya in a hurry or get from EU site don't get ripped off buying £20 nimah's from airsoft shops with a further £15/£20 for a w@nky smart charger have a look around and all that.... where is the guns battery compartment - up front or in rear "crane" type stock ??? measure the area - heck even roll up cardboard, pack of 10 cigarettes, mars bar or something to see if the mofo fits ok - measure dummy battery etc.... order up - save money BUT don't buy battery that won't fit - I've done that and I am supposed to know what I'm doing - lol

7.4v lipo comes off charge @ 8.4v and is fine lipo's are the way to go if buying new battery/charger 9.6v nimah old skool is the most I would go to mosfet requires soldering and in v2 boxes opening up of gearbox it is one of the upgrade options to consider at a later stage...... you don't really need a 11.1v lipo imho if you shove in 11.1v too much juice it will run faster but often a faster stock gun will break quickly if pushed too much (truth is many guns running faster n faster will be likely to break quicker - like thrashing ya motor you could say) use gun for 6 months, up to 9.6v see how she goes if/when the spring/fps drops see about some mild tweaks/service if she shoots crap - look at hop/bucking - 99% of accuracy/range is there not mega fps please do not think like many of us did: gotta upgrade this that and everything else I must have a MadBull Tight Bore Barrel it has to have 12:1 gears or Dual Sector Gear and must all be replaced with Lonex Ultimate stuff inside with £50+ motor like a car - if you want a mofo gun/car - buy one ya suped up Ford Focus or G&G/Cyma will ergh still be a Ford Focus so don't get too carried away with upgrades straight away but you will coz you are a bloke - lol seriously - just get out there - use it have fun, see how you go don't go too nutz on upgrades too quickly a few tweaks cost very little and not many parts have to be all replaced plus if it breaks - and it could/will at some point like a car battered up ford escort you have a go at fixing/tweaking/bodging it it ain't rocket science but often not quite as easy as you might think if it is still shagged - cut ya losses buy another box/gun etc....... just get out there, meet other people and shoot 'em (in a friendly airsoft way of course) how long gun will last - impossible to answer might notice a little drop in performance say 6 months time from seals/spring/bucking but depends how much you use it and if you abuse or take a little common sense care like a pc - works fine before internet - go online then it will get shagged from virus/malware/crap over time aeg - hang it on ya wall, lasts ages (until the high quality pot metal gearbox crumbles over years) high end guns will/should last longer or their owners take more care of them in my book if anybody has a "starter gun" lasting years n years n years - you ain't using it much or giving it abuse but I like breaking things - always push stuff - always have to ignore the wet paint sign.... Yup - they are right - it is still wet that paint

it is 101% true..... That guy with a PolarStar will get the right hump when that little 13yr old keeps taking him out with a JBBG gun it is a fact that does happen...... £1,000 doesn't buy fun - well maybe a load of hookers but in airsoft it doesn't guarantee you will own the field just on buying all the top $hit I've seen it myself and I'm sure many if not most of us have airsoft is like motoring Porsche might be the bollox on M1 but around town there will ALWAYS be that little bastid dominoes pizza twat on his moped right up your ar$e

F*CK ME I've met my long lost twin brother Uhmm yeah what he said Wow did ya get a new keyboard for chrimbo and just breaking it in - kidding Great info post - mega likey Mags if they operate OK leave alone Make sure you empty them of bb's release tension as spring in mag if left wound will perform crap if left full & wound.

just like to add...... tbh I dunno about locking it - just delete this whole post I see all sides but the slim 0.0001% relation to airsoft in the post the rest is envoking a reaction that the c*nt has set out to do from the start so this whole thread is giving him more attention plus squabbles perhaps the whole thread is nearly as $hit as most of my posts ffs yes the Nazi's/Germans were horrible c*nts too but the world has tried to move on and learn from it all The "joke" or just having a laugh..... yup even Prince Harry was snapped as a Nazi.... However - very often "jokes" are at somebody's expensive be it the one about the 3 irishmen, 2 black guys, a blonde woman etc.... But this "joke" is deemed by many to be in bad taste just to seek attention imho This is my last word on the matter - ffs just forget the post along with the w@nker just giving it more attention and fanning fires etc....... I really don't believe in deleting posts but this one I wouldn't mind not seeing again if I could edit a poll but I didn't start the post - this post should be removed if you wanna remember anything - buy a poppy but forget this crap

Observation is best, an overwatch of enemies approaching or attempting a flank. From a modest safe distance perhaps still within sniping range but passing on numbers direction etc... Unsure how players would feel about this in normal reg/mil sim games.... But suppose it could be fun to incorporate into a terminator skynet type game. But shooting down some higher end drones can be costly with possible go-pro damage. Idea can be built upon but tbh I just go for pew peeew pew. Airsoft I'd just my escape from being Dumbass Daft Vader in real life I play airsoft when I man up this $hit got real well as real as it can be with a toy gun At home I play COD blops 2 when I feel like I want play silly far fetched crap May the farce be with us

perfectly normal - my motto yes dear - this is my last gun I'm buying

tbh - I don't really give a f*ck just doing it for fame and provoke a reaction which my first reaction is looks gay and the guy must be a c*nt anyway he could run around as a KKK, Bin Laden, the devil himself, or who ever he chooses all I would see if some c*nt looking gay pretending to be something he is not looking for a reaction and to anybody else - nope I'm sorry if that is an insult to anybody's sexuality it was just a general stereotype observation Merry Christmas - even gay looking c*nts seeking attention (hope you get your fame fix & medication/help you need in 2016) peace x x x maybe close thread - delete it coz its all bollox from a nob/bell end

google: " how does an aeg cut off lever work " in semi the selector plate is allowing the cut off lever to rise up (cam on sector gear) and as it rises with switch engaged/trigger pulled it lifts the switch trolley up/away from trigger which flies backwards cutting off switch circuit stopping the gun cycling the little spring returns the cut off lever to rest allowing the switch to drop so trigger can relatch onto it in auto the cut off lever is disengaged as it is pulled up out of the way (said google it coz it probably will get a bit confusing as I try to explain it) However...... on most old skool mechanical switch aeg's there is a "dead zone" this is where when firing on semi the trigger is released too early and the cut off lever has not fully returned Trying to fire gun is this state will have the trigger & switch trolley not latching correctly - often slipping off each other or feeling a bit stiff.... DO NOT FORCE IT you can damage it which sounds like it may have happened perhaps to give odd symptoms what you are supposed to do in this instance is switch to auto - fire once or nudge gun's cycle past this dead zone (it is where cam is still lifting the cut off lever a smidge) The operation of semi/auto is basically where the cut off lever is slipping under the switch to lift/disengage it on semi or slipping over the switch on auto so the cut off lever has no effect on the trigger/switch mechanism spring itself - not normally sold on its own, normally in a v2 spring set for about fiver http://www.ak2m4.co.uk/zci-gearbox-spring-set-v2 you could chop up say a clicky biro pen or something like that to find a similar spring (yeah that bastid spring is tiny and boy does she fly well - lost a couple of those mofo's) The only concern is that if the trigger/switch has been forced a number of times in the " dead zone " it may have caused a little wear on the switch trolley or other parts involved was gun new or s/hand - most parts will fit in a G&G ok but some parts are more compatible than others and may need a tiny modification to get them working perfectly.... either new and been forced in dead zone or s/hand and not serviced/repaired 101% correctly on mechanical side of switch some M4 selector plates are slightly slightly different to others I have noticed not just some are thicker/thinner but the selector cut out or semi point can be different (an area that is modded/removed to disable auto firing on dmr's) so the selector plate might have worn or failed to lift the cut off lever 101% correctly impossible to say the exact single cause - take a few pics maybe so we can see & maybe rule out stuff c'mon Santa - where's my f*ckin' bike !!!!!! (04:30am xmas morning and no pressies yet - geriatric old fart) Merry Christmas

looks a bit gay holding a G&G GC16 - possible 30th edition and if Trigger says stuff like: "Well it is a G&G...." - bollox

Some paint - some don't sometimes its to do with camo others its just to add ya own touch or blend in to compliment your loadout or other reasons like - I was bored.... add your own grip/sights/scope - its your gun do what ya want with it me I ain't too bothered if it still looks quite stock many wrap some camo tape or black duct tape to a 2-toner just go easy on accessories perhaps:

gas - if ya use it enough then propane/colemans gas with a drop of silicone cost of glock mags - well you can get WE G18 type for £20 or less aeg mags aprox £10 to £20 depending on type/make/gun - can pay a lot more (check out mag costs & availability on any gun you are thinking of buying) hpa/gas/electric - there are pro's n cons for all of them tbh be it initial outlay, running costs, reliability, cold weather etc.....

Just to add.... find local site, hire gun & play a few times first this will allow to get defense/ukara etc.... also it will help to test the water then if you can see yourself getting hooked THEN flogg ya air-rifle setup..... Now you may wanna go down the hpa route being paintball/air rifle player by that time you know if ya gonna go nutz then you will have defense blah blah blah to get yourself setup with either aeg or save more for hpa mofo normally I wouldn't even suggest hpa - but your history you might be wishing to consider it at some point welcome to forum - best of luck getting married and finally when the boss says " FINE " - yeah that means anything but (it is not fine - but she hasn't thought of way to make you pay - yet)

The guides in new players section is a must read no really they will answer most questions and others you haven't thought of yet saving a lot of time & money - wish I read them earlier welcome to forum & UK weather is crap but at least you get to play with toy guns warning - it can get VERY addictive this pee pew pew stuff

Cyma 028 min.... many go for the cm04x ones but the 028 range is a good budget one do not go for a cm52x series as they are too cheap imho APS have got better but only have a UAR - weird mags/magwell EBB - more crap to go wrong especially as you tweak gun to a higher rof (just shout clakety clack when firing and stuff won't fly off is my view)

Try another hop unit, some of them can vary a smidge Sometimes the lips can distort but this can cause poor feed or fps loss Others can sit slightly further back and seal better against nozzle but again the nozzle may not clear enough to feed properly especially at auto speed One thing to try is stick say an o-ring in front of hop, or piece of card to push back the hop unit to help bucking nozzle seal. But might restrict feeding if pushed to far back. Tappet spring, could lop a coil off to increase tension to help seal firmly Also loosen stock a bit as sometimes as stock is tightened tightly it can pull box back and front raises up that can knock the nozzle -hop out of alignment Doubt if that was the problem but it might have got knocked out of whack Trying to think of any things to check/try next

Clean barrel, check m4 unit has tiny spring at hop unit pushing back to gearbox thought hop must be torn (had that a couple of times) but you said you changed hop rubber but that is a ton of air loss - like a girly silent fart coming out of air nozzle/front of box not saying guru's walking on water can chrono by just putting their hand up in front of nozzle but you get the idea that very little is coming out if box is barely farting out air yup could be dry seals but still a friggin' lot of loss - many stock guns still produce 300 with not so great seals and poor cylinder head/nozzle sealing depends if you wanna strip the box down and grease/polish cylinder, new o-ring, nozzle, ptfe tape etc.... (if not get a tech to look at it) sounds like hop/bucking area and dirty as f*ck barrel, as first area to check out further unless box is barely passing wind out of nozzle another area is its been knocked out alignment box to hop causing nozzle to rub against hop and crap seal but both guns go pear shape is a bit weird but not unusual.... says my my teching guru: (soz it's a bit quiet lately and I'm stuck in with kids driving me nutz) if it ain't hop/bucking/barrel area or defective nozzle failing to seal 101% (could be snagging or weak tappet spring but this usually affects feeding) it is gonna be a bugger/number of things to fully check out - might be a few things but very likely it is gonna one stupid dumb a$$ thing - oooh yeahhh.... that must be really causing it to drop so much M4 hop/barrel out pushed up against gearbox - blow down barrel and see if airtight retract these slowly apart to see if it seals well or just barely seals when pushed home soz I'm just trying to think of things to check coz not got it front of me yup got some loss on some guns but nowhere that bad

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/3779-the-beginners-guide-to-airsoft/ http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/ basically...... http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/12854-new-player-guides-info/ ps - welcome to forum, loads of good info above

f*ck me for £29:99 I'll knock you a professional suppressor bollox plus it will reduce your heating bills too..... http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p57097?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&mkwid=shF5jhR3U_dc&pcrid=66162905543&pkw=&pmt=&gclid=Cj0KEQiA496zBRDoi5OY3p2xmaUBEiQA fitting is easy but you may need a grown up to help using round nosed scissors washing bottle, sticky back plastic, cable ties & duct tape - solves everything free Blue Peter velcro patch with all orders over £50

yeah good luck with a new little 'un on the way airsoft can get expensive - if you let it but tbh you can get by without going too nutz kids though very draining on finance, patience, stress levels etc.... 2016 will be quite a year for you then best wishes you can get anyway from kids at home to play with bigger kids with expensive toy guns

Think many woodland places allow up to 500 bolt (some may only allow 450 unless you can clearly define accurately 30m MED) 425 dmr locked to semi 350 aeg that is the norm - might help if you say where abouts you are looking to play rather than a complete list of sites from Land's End to John O' Groats Long & short self answer: Locate a site, go to website, check info/rules - in there it should say fps limits ricochets, gun hits, blah blah blah and any other specific guidelines blah blah blah