Sitting Duck

HobbyKing is great but the buyer has to do a bit more homework/research themselves..... There is a LOT of battery options - some at very cheap prices but have to check the dimensions Yes they do some airsoft batteries - though the airsoft batteries they sell are limited in burst rating = C and some of them are 166mm long which is too long for crane stocks - aprox 125-ish for crane stocks diameters also vary - G&G cranes are a bit narrow 18mm max tubes - others have a diameter in tube of 22mm MP5k's - jeeeeeeez they are like 17.999999mmm diamter and a number of single stick batteries are f*cking tight If the buyer measures their battery compartment - and I STRONGLY advise checking by making up a dummy battery from cardboard, sticky back plastic washing up bottle or something ffs to triple check.... Then they "may" find they can get a small compact block type battery which is a bit cheaper and more mah than HobbyKing's Airsoft ones Also buyer beware you can easily order 1 battery from UK and another battery/charger from HongKong If UK are out of stock - next place is to get them from EU (Netherlands) in fact last time I checked HobbyKing Airsoft batteries come from HongKong or EU - not sold on HobbyKing UK Yes an Imax B6 (genuine) is a good mofo charger but will need psu unless you buy the B6 AC version plus if on mini tamiya you may need to get some adapter leads to charge the mini tamiya lipo on a B6 hence for ease of use the B3 type is a lot easier to use out of box no matter what connector your gun uses on lipo's So for an ease of life - component shop if buying in bulk loads and upgrading - HobbyKing but do ya homework properly first

http://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1450mah-25c-continuous-discharge-cranestock-lipo-battery.html YOU WANT MINI-TAMIYA CONNECTOR BTW - GET 2 BATTERIES BTW http://www.componentshop.co.uk/1000ma-1500ma-li-po-li-fe-charger-for-2s-3s-lipo-life-battery-packs-complete-with-psu.html These are some options and better than buying an old skool nimah battery & crappy basic smart charger. You could go nutz and get a Imax B6 and other lipo's from hobbyking for example.... You can squeeze a longer 160mm twin stick lipo in the front handguard but the batteries listed should fit easy and provide a decent punch

DMR - you got quick change spring so go back to aeg when you get the hump option Sniper - bolt action is what mofo's go for, will cost time & money and you are stuck with a sniper (or sell it, shelve it etc.....) I'd test the water with DMR first and see how you get on

if its 420fps on a 230mm barrel then my hunch is its a bit over a proper m120 tbh (should be on the 400max maybe 390 on a 230 say 390fps - spring ratings do vary a lot) plus add in a bearing spring guide + piston bearing = 2 x 5mm extra spring compression increasing fps though tbh piston bearing is not what I use as it adds weight and comes undone unless you use threadlock (bearing spring guide & drop piston bearing is fine - recommended for higher rof setups) soz but just pointing it out as each of them bearings can add 15-20 fps each due to compressing spring more Gate's are nearly all AB's once you get into the mid range - though think one or two of them can turned on/off Be careful if dropping spring down too low in case you get close to PE tbh - what you could do is short stroke it a couple of teeth roughly speaking each tooth will drop ABOUT - I say about coz its hard to calculate exactly..... each tooth could reduce fps by "about" 15fps or 6%-ish (multiply fps by 0.94 for each tooth) SS a couple of teeth could drop say 30fps and help to avoid PE As long as she fires properly in semi if trigger held down = then the trigger switch is working correctly Some v2 switches need the selector plate's copper strip to make full contact on them 2 prongs behind switch others like shs - have these contacts bridged so selector plate's copper strip isn't needed others like G&P - maybe D-Boys don't have these prongs at back of switch at all... Just saying if on semi she spluttered to fire these contacts "could" be not making proper contact 101% but if she fires correctly by holding down the trigger a tiny bit longer then that rules that out and yes it is you releasing trigger that tiny bit too early - leaving the cut off lever slightly raised in the dead zone see how you go - Kong ain't bad - not tried Gate mosfets but plenty have them or just retrain your itchy trigger finger SS though might be a wise consideration rather that drop in a too low spring and get overspin or PE trouble

Ahhh - dmr or a pdw size gun ??? (all the same think a pdw 110-140mm barrel would still be a tad hot on a m120 unless you losing fps somewhere) though some sites allow up to 370fps I think I've seen on aeg's anyway no matter - there are a few like in the Gate range of fet's also Kong II or Kong 3 burst mosfets @ Airsoftworld or at a push Zero One also stock them a bit of a headache getting ya head round them at first but can add bells n whistles 1-2-3-4-5 rnd burst all with or without the one touch flick option... Will take a little configuring and on higher rof guns it will be different to program as opposed to stock rof guns but worth a look.... or go nutz down the BTC route

top top mofo always worth shooting him a pm on here or FB down to earth bloke with down to earth prices - yet shipping is bloody quick without silly postage costs already covered: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/20130-wwwak2m4couk/#entry138973 but well respected on here (if that don't get a super duper grovelling bonus loyalty discount then I don't know what will )

You do understand that that spec is a 40rps build 13:1, shs torque, fet + deans & a whopping 11.1v lipo With that in mind you must have a bloomin' quick trigger finger to release it that bit too quickly and leave it stuck it dead zone If you leave it pulled for a split second she should fire very nicely but at 40rps you gotta be just flicking that trigger if she is working correctly at that speed without the flick of the trigger then it is just you being too hasty on the release of trigger if you ain't hitting at least 35rps something ain't right but even at that speed you had best done your homework to avoid PE (Short Stroke & m115+ spring) if you proceed running a build like that on 11.1v on stock m100-ish spring......

As this has gone off topic - then back on, then off again..... Airsoft is a little like married sex - just a little Now if you are lucky you get to sample the above loadout - very very few times (on ya GF I meant but if you like to cross dress I suppose whatever floats ya boat) helps to make the event more enjoyable but as we all know it is the taking part that counts and after a while you ain't gonna so no if their kit isn't as good yes its nice all kitted/strapped up etc... but if its basic loadout & you get to play or not playing at all.... you just pick up ya weapon and go for it - that is what counts Final thought thought chaps.... If Mrs Duck is gonna show me a loadout like the above end of Feb - our anniversary btw 29-02-92 = leap year then you will not be seeing me at the Mall I'm afraid I might be daft and act the fool but even I ain't that f*cking stupid somebody try and steer it back on course but leave you with another pic to consider if thinking of getting hitched AND NO MRS DUCK HASN'T LET HERSELF GO THAT MUCH !!!! it is not our pics before you ask (before any smart ar$e chimes in)

Base M4 - any one as long as take the general TM stuff 300 to 409mm I guess though a base M4 should not have the fixed front sight unless your optics are on risers though you can replace the fixed M4 front sight with fold/removable one http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ics-metal-cxp16-long-version-airsoft-gun-aeg nice looking gun, 2 part gearbox to allow you to go from 350 to 450 spring change can add on longer outer extension and barrel to look bad ass but say a 350 barrel in supressor will be fine.... great uk seller for ics stuff hop/barrel - hmmm avoid madbull - if spending money pdi barrel, prowin hop (though ics hop/bucking is a little bespoke and might not work in ics) motor shs torque - strength and not too silly speed gearset - well stock 18:1 should be ok at a push 16:1 or 13:1 if snappy response is plenty mofo's - just general term aka mother f*cker usually when something is damn bloody good Not saying the ics one is the be all & end all you could get krytac or others TM etc.... but tbh it might be worth two things: 1 - see what others may say - always good to research and get opinions etc.... 2 - you could just approach firesupport and get them to build your gun for you to a dmr spec (note there is a sportsline (plastic version) that is £50 cheaper but tbh get the metal for £50 more) I would of said this or that gun but the ics will allow you to swap springs yes some have a very quick change spring, but on M4's you have to half remove the gearbox unless you drill out a bloody big hole where stock tube goes to get to QD spring guide the ics - not quite as quick but lower box/wiring/motor stays put Wait a while - somebody else will chime in with other suggestions and I might even change my mind also but put on spot the long cxp might be one I'd consider then have the dmr/aeg quick spring change option - drop down to 350fps and overkill that little 12yr old $hit with his JBBG that's not taking his long range hits all morning (yes I'm a sick bastid/mofo)

nomally dmr's go at 425-450 max ruling 50 less than sniper's max limit due to aeg and also the dmr can spam a bit on semi true milsim strict ruling may enforce a 3 sec delay (aprox time to recock a bolt sniper) m120 spring will get you to say 400+ m130 is what you should need to attain 425-450 (though this can vary on different springs) max gearing 13:1 and a VERY good motor pulling m130 full stroke normal gen gearbox basic service etc........ however - it is barrel and more importantly the hop that you need to spend time/money on R-hop is going to be the way to go but I haven't dabbled so can't offer much advice in that area I'm still learning but have found the alternative flat hop don't work too great on tight barrels 6.02 often the longer barrels seem to go 6.05 upwards rather than tighter and higher fps but hop/bucking/nub is critical area - the box is not so must be mental mofo - working well but not ultra critical I'm on the cheap mess about side of stuff - probably with a 50m range the area you need is probably pro-win hop R-hopped on a decent barrel - not mental one but lapped and polished to close perfection - that is what the mofo's have in their guns after numerous experiments with bb's and buckings - not easy to get that close to squeezing everything out of gun just saying higher fps is not the answer to everything.... too many keep bunging in a higher spring to get the fps rather than make seals airtight bad range - more power - nope TM's shoot very well they all say but often fps wise they are lower than most guns out of box so that example proves fps is not the be all n end all many think yes you will spend most of your budget on the hop/barrel to attain max possible range/accuracy/groupings the box itself is not any area than needs loads of work - just a bit servicing and motor/fet before you go nutz - check your site is not too picky on its dmr spec and a beefy M4 is allowed to me it should be but some sites/players get a bit picky

the longest barrel you can fit...... after about 350mm it does jack $hit but it looks bad ass to enemy mine is bigger than yours & no I'm not over compensating for something........ but there are limits - p90 mofo has gone ott me thinks: DMR - dmr the whole thing is kinda weird..... most guns can shoot better without the long mofo barrel or the higher fps you gain say 75fps but often without attention to detail to barrel/hop you get little over a decent normal aeg Yes you can "convert" a M4 to a "DMR" but some picky places may not accept that mofo single shot M4 as a true DMR but in effect a m130 spring, lock to semi if no auto ever available then an additional micro switch tucked away to trigger a mosfet to clear any semi lockup's - but mag needs to be removed if clearing a lock up & firing on full auto neo motor fet deans etc for response - really though it is just getting it shooting as best/accurately as you can really really messing with hop bucking barrel is where the attention to detail is..... no point shooting a heavier bb and still range and groupings being absolute $hite even with extra fps Before you embark on a M4 dmr project - check your site's specs more serious places don't allow just anybody with a beefy M4 and announce it as a dmr.... me personally and other not so serious sites couldn't care less if it is following the normal 425-450fps limit locked to semi - then fair enough to me tricky bit is getting a "dmr" to perform like a dmr ya average starter can shoot ok-ish but a poor dmr all over the place will just leave you annoyed

not saying these clowns but.... https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/a-k-sr-25k-full-metal-airsoft-aeg-rifle-with-crane-stock-in-black.html shame coz gunfire did a sr25 on offer at about 150 Euros couple of weeks before chrimbo: http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152192690-GF25-K-sniper-rifle-replica.html other options are cm032 or just go nutz on a normal slightly longer gun ffs its airsoft - screw what others think about a long nosed M4

bollox to all of it - this kinda sums up my thoughts...

ok but go easy on SS do 1 or 2 teeth max at first - can't put them back on and make sure they came off the side that first engages piston pick up tooth first I followed a bad guide and removed the teeth at the end of sector which messes up tappet timing best of luck sir

Building a great perfect box is not as easy as we all first think The gearbox shell's can vary so much for a start and the front of the gearbox can vary in thickness (I don't have a King Arms box) I'm sure I have an old VFC v2 which is 3.1mm thick at front and a D-Boys spare shell measures 2.65mm - does this matter - YES coz that 0.45mm means nozzle is projecting more or less into the hop resulting in a good seal but possible poor feeding or reliable feeding but loss of fps (though must state there are numerous other factors as well for poor feeding/seals etc... but nozzle lengths do matter) On top of that the red shs nozzle is one of the more longer M4 nozzles and people have found feed issues in some builds 7mm bearings - hmm ok if they are good quality ones and shimming is dogz nutz but may crap out over time - bushings are best or at least bushings under gears if piston is a shs blue metal full rack either complete or already lightened to f*ck - nice piston either way piston head - hopefully not metal one with bearing as it adds weight but suppose not too bad as shs blue full rack's are quite light (if you have a bearing on piston head - please ffs make sure you used threadlock on it - they WILL undo no matter how tight you tighten) After correcting AoE with sorbo/neoprene - which you should/must correct the rest of box seems very nice - but think a delay clip is wise The issue with feeding/double feed/cycling.... 7.4v should be ok - double cycling can take place on 11.1v and risk of PE The double firing issue is usually not quite double firing but more a case of it misfiring/part-jam then another bb is loaded which emits 2 bb's at once giving the impression of double firing eg: 1 - 1 - 0 - 2 - 1 - 1 - 0 - 2 bb's come out the end This is likely to be either the nozzle not clearing enough to allow a bb to feed into hop 101% everytime or bucking/bucking lips catching on bb or being a bit tight or tappet spring being way too weak etc....... test bb will pass the bucking lips with light moderate assistance (thin screwdriver pushing into hop nub) new tappet spring or lop a couple of coils off to increase the return force/speed Shs tappet plates usually are very good at pulling back but mat still need a delay or some other modding check operation - but think the nozzle itself "might" be a smidge too long perhaps for this build..... Before you go too nutz on this that n the other it seems you have more of a feeding problem than double cycling as first thought I suggest forget SS for the moment, stay on 7.4v and get you feeding issue sorted first at say 24rps once the gun is firing ok reliable and little variation - then and only then consider faster options The saying - Trying to run before you can walk springs to mind... It is very tricky - bloody very tricky getting a gun to fire faster and still feed great and last but in stages you may be able to make steady progress and achieve a nice performing improved gun which eventually after a lot of stress cursing and god knows how many times you opened her up... if/when you do get there you kinda feel like..... soz but meaning to add a couple of funny's I'm chiming out as Rock-climby-Dave is bound to be far more experienced than me who is still fumbling my way though

hang on guys - think it's started to rain - abort abort.... btw - I'm a girl's blouse anyway

FFS - test the gun on 7.4v first !!!!! 13:1 gearset + shs torque all fetted/deans/16awg etc.... you should be hitting about 25rps aprox on 7.4v 25c with a shs torque NOW if you shove in 11.1v with shs motor you should hit another 50% nearly 35 to 37rps - before you get all excited and stuff a warning....... m100 spring guns: as you get to 25rps guns start to over run a bit more and close to double fire on non ab fets even if AB kicks in to stop this over run - DO NOT THINK you can continue to push it more safely as gun starts to fire at 30rps the risk of Pre Engagement greatly increases More dangerous is when you have a full metal piston in there and not ultra light either (lighter pistons release/return a little quicker and help to avoid PE but don't mean you can keep going nutz) So if you connect up a beefy or even moderate 11.1v lipo on a m100 UK gun and pull trigger..... You may - well quite likely hit PE at 35rps plus as this takes place - a plastic toothed piston will usually just strip to bits and limit further failures However - on a full metal rack piston there is no weak point - solid metal motor pinion to gearset to metal tooth piston This can result in a bigger crunch and numerous metal teeth smashing f*ck out of each other inside The Short Stroke setup is required for normal 350fps guns trying to shoot at 30rps+ shorter piston stroke and stronger spring returning a light piston means the piston avoids getting smashed at high speeds though to be fair at 30rps you will probably need a delay clip if feeding becomes a problem (likely depending on mags used) Many of us have learnt the hard way when pushing guns too fast please check stuff first on 7.4v like I said and maybe stay at a steady 25rps aprox unless you do your homework going too nutz may result in.......

my guess is you have used a regular spring - m100-ish and are approaching aprox 25rps so she is overunning - double firing (or say 20rps on a weak/used spring of about m90 strength) This is quite normal - gun is running faster and failing to slow/stop very quickly your options are 1- stay on lower volts - easy one that 2 - if using a mosfet then use a mosfet with active braking as this reverses the polarity for a split second as trigger is released thus slowing the motor very very quickly - but can make motor run warmer due to the slight increase in stress 3 - on higher speed guns "Short Stroking" is performed This means fitting a heavier spring - say m120 which means the fps would be too high but to compensate for this some of the sector gear's teeth (at beginnng) ar removed So the higher spring is only pulled back say 85% of the way to obtain a more moderate fps The tension of the m120 slows the faster running gun very quickly and over spin is greatly reduced This is the way many mofo's setup higher speed guns... you barrel length needs to be a moderate length to still achieve the correct air volume ratio but unless you are running a 400+ barrel you should be able to short stroke or SS 2 or 3 teeth on a m120 spring (piston must be say 3 or 7 metal teeth as the last tooth used must be metal on release) get gun chrono'd at tell us the fps and rps delayer is only for feeding issues at higher speeds - don't stop over spin

anyone will fit ccw - counter clock wise 14mm the FH flash hider is friggin' loud - gets on ya nerves a bit all day long (especially inside - and I reckon it very very easy for others to pinpoint exactly where you are in woodland) wouldn't say it ugly - well if it is - then with the duck beak amplifier you could call it the ugly duckling but seen much worse looking guns - but guess beauty is in the eye of the holder as they say though I quite like 'em as it was my first RIF I bought (please tell me you didn't get the HC05) other noisy mofo's: other options baby tiny 60mm suppresor though won't do much: http://www.actionhobbies.co.uk/Swiss-Arms-Stubby-Silencer-60-x-32-CCW_AZE5F.aspx#.VouLUbaLSt9 normally they are about 100mm to 150mm ish on that short front end go nutz and it really looks silly with a 250mm one on there

you can use the old spring - cut off the "hook" where it clips onto the spring lock That metal spring lock can weigh up to 7.5gms - so lose it The spring will now be compressed about 9mm less than it was originally once removed correcting AoE will lessen the piston stroke by about 4mm... but if adding a bearing spring guide then that adds 5mm to spring's starting spring compression (so AoE & bearing spring kinda cancel each other out - soft of) BUT you will still be that spring lock's 9mm out so think the old spring will be ok (might have been a m100/110 poor seals/port plus if been there a while lost a bit of power as all springs lose a bit over time) you can use a std spring guide if ya that worried and if say only shooting 300fps then adding a bearing spring guide after testing will bring up fps by aprox 15fps Alas you can try to use Mr Spock's best calculated vulcan "guess" in the whole universe.. but at the end of the day the real test is when you simply "suck it & see" as so many many variables to predict even 99% accurately

ya barrel length is 400mm to 500mm so port will be either port very near back or full cylinder in anycase the rof shouldn't drop massive coz it was still having to pull spring back all the way ?? (unless it was short stroked a few teeth - the spring still fully compressed) if you wish - see if you can weigh the complete piston assembly ideally no bearing to save weight not an alloy piston head - plastic/pom one piston can be swiss cheesed a bit but tbh only normally shaves off 2 to 2.5gms the bearing can weigh more so drop that if complete piston weighs in under 20gms that ain't bad lighter piston returns quicker and can help avoid PE and minor slight boost in fps than a sluggish piston but it is how smooth and how good the little bits n bobs all move and fitted together that is what makes a good box really

ahh that might help if was nearly a full cylinder - say 7/8th type 1 for 400mm or full type 0 for 500mm.... add cylinder on list coz it ain't scratched its got a friggin massive hole in it

if she is doing 23rps on 7.4v that is good mofo neodym motor in there soz thought she was running on weak ferrite one

madbull barrel - hold up hmmm, bit overated/priced imho clean old one and just check bucking first change barrel n stuff later if needed but check bucking/replace is cheap check out semi problem unsure if she is failing to fire electrics wise - contacts or mechanically wise - cut off, switch or selector or varying fps - was a bit vague fps issue is most likely seals plus possible bucking torn etc... Silent piston/head - yeah maybe if you wish but stock one might be ok as is but use a sorbothane/neoprene mix when doing AoE will reduce piston slapping correcting AoE will drop you 10-15fps so a bearing spring guide will claw it back good seals yes but check everything once you got box apart cylinder scratched - replace, polish it using silicone, soak good fitting piston o-ring in it too ensure piston head has good vent holes - 6 to 8 about 2mm to help seal quickly on release cylinder head ptfe tape or replace if still not happy with double o-ring type polishing inside box - don't have to go nutz just ensure the bits that move are smooth eg: piston rails, tappet, switch itself, cut off lever moves freely etc..... just time more than money is what works best money saved can be used for bits n bobs if/when needed after doing a good overhaul/service eg: new motor or barrel once box and fps is running better best of luck

well spotted sir yup not ALL Cyma's & JG's are built with metal boxes they do make terrible (why bother - low power plinkers) https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/broken-faulty-cm-023-mp5-electric-semi-automatic-aeg-bb-gun.html https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/broken-faulty-jg-239-electric-semi-automatic-ak-47-aeg.html