Sitting Duck

if you go down the mosfet route there are pro's and cons...... best pro example I can think of is like with a prog mosfet you can set the 3-7 rnd burst to 1 rnd burst in this mode you need to ensure the delay from burst to auto is set to max Resume full auto delay to 1 sec or more hence if you have the sod in auto by mistake as long as you don't hold trigger down longer than 1 sec she will only fire 1 shot burst Another advantage is if you get a lockup in the cut off lever dead zone - you can switch to auto and she will fire 1rnd burst even if cut off half raised NOTE - some sites state electric/mosfet/burst lock is not allowed on DMR's If that is the case then mechanical lock is needed but still use a basic mosfet.... Why - well if you fit a safe but hidden micro-switch say in battery compartment basically another trigger switch circuit but out of the way so can't be used in game easily Then if you get a lock-up - you can press the micro-switch which will in effect be a full auto switch (not governed by cut off lever) So if on mechanical lock - the gun locks... you could retire briefly out into dead zone, remove mag, carefully aim gun away or to ground, hit switch and not have to strip stuff down (can't really go to safe zone coz clearing gun with a bb in chamber is not allowed coz it is fucking dangerous in safe zone) Anyway - there are some ideas if making a dmr - deffo mofet & extra hidden micro-switch to clear lockups

I did sort of - linked him to Legacy's guide which is very good bit of info look I like to type but sod typing that much crap everytime somebody asks...... However there a few differences between that guide for USA & us Limey's We have lower fps so we can't quite use m120 springs in normal aeg's unless we are Shortstroking to lower fps So when Legacy says use this n that - it will often be a tad hot for some examples The problem with increased rof is double cycling and PE - on lower spring setups this takes place earlier at lower rps eg: 25rps = over running - double cycle & 30rps PE on a 340fps UK gun This won't happen on a US gun with a stock m110 to m120 spring as they are not hot for many of their sites So though it is a very very very good guide it is not to be taken completely 101% gospel for us over here HOWEVER - it does go into depth about various stages of increasing rof and work involved especially at higher speeds often depending how fast you really want to go very little needs to change - so you don't have to replace it all with Lonex etc..... Service ya gun, AoE, increase seals maybe fit spring guide if trying to lighten piston for quicker return blah blah blah..... Then if getting into 20's leave the stock 18:1 gears in there and heck you could leave a good stock ferrite motor there as well run on 11.1v is one way but seriously advise fitting fet if going down that amount of juice..... The extra juice will boost aprox 50% over a 7.4v lipo from extra cell eg: 13rps to 20rps or fit a faster powerful motor - it really depends on budget and how far/fast you wanna go However I could go into loads and loads of MY RECOMMENDATIONS - and they may be different to others a little But I can honestly say to anybody thinking of going nutz...... IT IS NOT THAT EASY - the tolerances and attention to detail on every single poxy little bastid part inside is critical I learnt - still learning that it isn't a simple case of duplo/meccano of just dropping a new go faster part and it will just work All them bits n bobs are manufactured with $hit tolerances that fit into $hit gearbox tolerances and furthermore.... EVERY SINGLE BOX IS DIFFERENT TO EACH OTHER - even 2 G&G builds may be shimmed differently if done properly Each motor can have its pinion at slightly different heights - won't completely affect the shimming a great massive deal but will affect motor height shimming itself can only be as good as the time and level of detail taken when shimming and even a good guess of motor height is no match for a dial guage measurement - even a rough measurement is going to be better than many people's guess (except Mr Spock teching a box) The guide needs to be read though to fully understand the detail required and even on a modest 20+ build the same detail applies Well if you really want it to last as long as possible - coz one part in particular WILL fail - it WILL Often - very very often the reliability is down to mainly 2 things: Shimming - I know this gets said every time but so true as bad shimming increases wear on box/gears and especially motor & Just how strong your weakest part is - coz it will fail eventually Normally - pistons strip/snap, bearings start failing and when they do the play can destroy gears also So when going to higher 20's eg getting to 30 or more a full metal rack is needed and use bushings I have tried a few pistons but on 13:1 gears pushing it many pistons start to fail but make sure you did ya homework as full metal rack + PE or bad bb jam slowing a high speed piston will smash f*ck out of box but try to get the whole piston as truely light as possible to return asap no bearing in piston - swiss cheese but it only saves about 1.5gms I found - depends on how heavy the piston is to begin with Bushings - all or nearly all in box especially under the gears - left side of gearbox an absolute must tbh bushings - will lose a round or two a second but will greatly prolong/prevent failure in gears in the long run Oh f*ck it my fingers are killing me - the long story trying to shorten it a bit ..... gun is firing 30rps+ f*ck yeah that's great..... ooh hold up - should of fitted a delay clip maybe coz it ain't feeding properly fits delay clip - better but still not perfect.... uhmm ergh new tappet spring or lop coils off.... hmmm a little better but just now n then still splutters.... Another reason could be ya fitted a slightly longer o-ring nozzle (that just so ever so slightly slghtly impedes the bb feeding into hop) replace/file nozzle coz you didn't check when building it all..... yeah getting there but just now n then splutters the odd one out.... Oh crap stock high cap mag is $hit, borrow a m8's mid cap or Lonex mag and works flawlessly So gets new mags - the tech bill is getting higher n higher...... Funny thing is all this attention to detail for higher rof and yet gun still shoots with mediocre accuracy on stock barrel & bucking Ok to compensate for not considering anything outside the box....... hmmm I wonder if I put a bigger battery in there - famous last words....... BANG - OH $HIT !!!!!! famous last words indeed the story of me taking the pi$$ again and again Hence the simplest advice it go easy and get to twenties in plenty a quick question for you all: What goes: "peck peck peck - BANG !!!!!!" NOPE - not a chicken in a minefield you might think but ME getting gun chrono'd and starting my first game of the day with one of my super duper rapid duck builds I've broke LOADS and learnt very little despite all the bollox I type

actually got shot right on the ol' chap at epsom yes all the jokes - wow he must have a bloody good scope with night vision to shoot something so small but right on the meat rather than 2 veg - stung a bit for a split sec but luckily my jeans took most of sting and we both saw the funny side of it...... as for any heated discussions starting - jeeeez look I like a fast gun and I run with high caps mainly and yes I can shoot a bit trigger happy sometimes but at my local it is just a nooby basic mess about place I over look most of kids, hirers, non-hit takers, over inflated ego players coz it is just a basic mess about run round the woods place plus I'm f*cking $hit at it all - often games like closet to flag is just a crazy mofo let rip stopping anybody get near flag but if I hit somebody I ease up straight away - honest well unless they refuse to call it, then I also suffer from dementia forgetting what I was supposed to do...... But Mall is gonna be semi - no problem just as at my site the buildings/village is semi only so we all abide by that but still could spam a sod if we choose but not my style - well I guess I'm not in the game long enough anyway I see why a high rof is nice up to point But if at more serious sites with players not needing to spray n pray so much you do tend to adjust your playstyle a little according to each situation The original post was about an insane rof - what exactly people call insane can vary but originally it was about trying to inform the OP about learning to crawl-walk before they attempt to run/sprint I'll still stand by the player themselves and way they conduct themselves is what really matters I am not too bothered if some mofo has a PolarStar cranked up on rof - not fps btw but yeah he & others can shoot like f*ck if they wish - however if you start to shoot my ar$e can you please ease up a little when you have hit me once or twice - trust me I will be calling it (or calling that player something if he keeps overkilling me & the others) The danger comes when inexperienced or sadistic players think its "fun" to shoot the $hit out of enemy This leads to rows that need not be there and things getting out of hand ruin it for loads of us wanting a bit of fun 20 to 30 is the max I think most UK sites would need if you must have 40+ for a normal aeg - yes even I think they must be overcompensating for something even with pre-cocking, instance response, 14.8v - ffs its a toy gun not a fanny magnet on wheels Mind you I suppose we can meet up for a monthly cruise and get our toy guns featured in Hot Gun Magazine with some ol' tarts posing with them... Ergh - nah - they are just toy guns, even I don't take them that seriously - jeeeez

yeah - don't What I mean is a good number of CO2 pistols are too hot to use at most sites often on a fresh bulb you will be well over 500fps even near 1,000fps on your very first shot - but comes down to around 400fps after half a dozen or so shots but still way over so many people find they can't use them Now there are ways to lower the fps, valve mod, even hammer mod plus you can get a refillable bulb and fill with propane/Green Gas Plus some of the Dan Wesson revolvers can lower the fps with certain shells I think But quite a number of them CO2 mofo's are a bit hot like I said now if you are lucky and do some research you can get some guns that have co2 mags but also a GreenGas mag option too Still - a bit of a pain and many just use GreenGas or propane/coleman gas with a drop of silicone unless you are up north and extreme cold GG guns should be ok a few degrees above freezing though some prefer the plastic lighter mags as opposed to metal that may be more prone to failure in cold weather Other than that Electric - but few get much over 220fps Sorry but there is a catch with most types - but often people prefer GreenGas over co2 pistols

Indeed, even if on full auto in woods You can give the trigger a quick flick to take out somebody but still have the option of returning a burst of fire if his team mates over there start letting rip in your direction. All in moderation.... Double tap or 1 or 2 burst is all you need unless you aim is that $hit. In that case improve your aim or hop not rof Is down to the players themselves to help reduce the bell-end ratio

The whole pain factor varies greatly.... Depends where you get shot for a start Back, face, fingers even the crown jewels Even then it can vary so much also You can drop a solid glass ashtray on ya nutz and it barely hurts, then drop a matchbox or something so light and wriggle in agony. Police have been lifted airbourne almost by thugs yet have given chase and restrained the person. Minutes later collapsing in agony Kidneys are a much more accurate reliable area to strike as it will drop almost anybody if done correctly... What I'm saying is it varies so much from different places and still the same place can be agony or just a slight tap Just pisses me right off when some peeps say it don't hurt Most of the time it don't, but now n then the odd single shot stings like F*CK !!!! On top of that, a high rof is OK if used in moderation Eg not empty a mag in seconds but single shots or small 3-5 round burst when suppressing so teams can move up.... It is all about how people conduct themselves You could have a stock 12rps gun and be a bigger w@nker than a guy with a 30rps gun that just wants controlled quick response with a short burst now n then Then the 12rps hire noob fails to take hits keeps shooting you on auto at close quartets yet will tell his m8's where your team is as he walks to respawn dead zone Not having a go at new comers just used the above to demonstrate a difference in players attitudes Chill, go easy, love your gun's rof/rps/make/colour whatever you want - just remember if you was really that f*cking good you could still kick ar$e with a crappy JBBG But yup sometimes just a single shot can f*cking hurt Yet a 10rnd in the chubby belly means little discomfort

Ian uses them in AK's and yes it is still a bit tight - poxy mp5k's do NOT be tempted to get a twin stick version it will be that bit fatter once you lay the 2 haribo lipo sticks together they do a small 1200mah single stick one but think the 166mm long mofo one linked to is the one many go for just wish they made that battery tube just a smidge bigger just a smidge to say 20mm tube - make life so much easier

get a mosfet in there asap - luckily v3's means the fet gets fitted without having to reopen box like on v2's Lipo's really offer $hitloads more grunt which you will need on 13:1 gearing and the motor will draw as much juice as you can give it so for sake of contacts in the trigger get that fet fitted sooner rather than later http://www.firestormsystems.com/shop/electronics/mosfet-switch.html is one of many good small fets out there - gate pico or airfet plus others (could make your own but for 1 or 2 guns it really ain't worth it) Lipo link was for HobbyKing EU search around the UK HobbyKing now sells them "airsoft" batteries normally buy from UK or EU HobbyKing as quicker and no chance of import duty be careful very easy to click and end up buying stuff from HongKong so ensure you click UK or EU warehouse apart from shipping costs - nobody should be paying silly money for batteries and nobody should spend £20 for a nimah you will need a new charger a B3 or B6 type but yeah lipo's depending on type/style/format/cells you should easily get stuff under £10 on normal M4's it pays the measure your battery space and use HobbyKing's battery finder Then you can see loads of options If people got a fixed stubby or full stock they can fit really cheap block lipo's in there you should buy a lipo with at least 20c - I'd say 25c tbh if lipo says 25c-50c = 25c is what its real rating is I've been told Turginy, Zippy are good brands of lipo's the one I linked is a popular coz it is a nice stick lipo for AK's as well under the dust cover you do not need a 11.1v lipo - your motor & gears should be hitting 26rps+ once fetted & rewired etc... your spring in a 110mm - 140mm barrel is likely to be about a m110 if hitting 330-350fps so you should not be getting overspin or little go down 11.1v you will hit near 40rps and smash f*ck out of your gearbox with Pre Engagement so unless you are a real nutter speed freak keep it in moderation and coz of extra work involved many keep guns firing into the 20's twenties is plenty as they say yes you can go nutz - but faster guns need a lot more work and simply fail quicker could waffle and repeat $hitloads - do a search on here for one of my war n peace novels on lipo's n warnings but the real answer is drop nimah and go lipo (with mosfet)

It is kinda going backwards in the end not being funny but yes it would work though I'd make sure the cells are same type/capacity and if possible same make would be a right bollock-ache to change n charge but all cells should be charged at same time mp5k I would suggest: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idProduct=84544 change motor to long shs torque fit the mosfet up in handguard with hop unit fit actual mini deans as these still offer less resistance than small tamiya - and are very compact connectors fit the battery ar$e end first with thin alpha eco wire and wires should squeeze in ok with connector near rear of v3 box This is the type of stuff I'm looking to do on my Galaxy mp5k (in bits coz keep looking at other stuff & mods) & the poxy G5M mofo with ris that has to be removed every time to change battery (the ris Galaxy mp5 is a REALLY crap design) I haven't done it myself yet but that is what I'm looking at doing - jeez the mp5k's have crap battery space I know Gun would seriously kick ar$e then and at £5 a battery - why pi$$ball about with nimah's

ultra long barrel is out the window for a start DSG's can only provide enough volume of air for about 275mm (tbh I'd say 250 that is why most dsg's are either ak74 G36c or short M4's) DSG's are really for poops n giggles project - they really ain't used that much in UK I feel we don't have to inflate our ego's or rof as much as some others..... plus I don't wanna be know as that w@nker (I'm known as some w@nker but not THAT w@nker) If you go down the short stroking route I'd say ya barrel max is gonna be 400mm ish tbh keep it at 365mm M4 size that should allow you to SS 4 teeth if most of the above makes little sense - google some tutorials up http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/legacys-guide-building-high-speed-aeg-87504/ BUT KNOW THIS - your gun will crap out quicker your mags probably won't feed very well at 30+rps and you will be called a dick if you spray n pray or light people up with overkill Many on here go down the more sensible route on getting into 20's 21rps on stock gears up to say 29rps on 12:1 gears but there is more work to be done with higher speed even high 20's The best players often just use semi only having a slightly faster gun only for trigger response than actual high rof on auto watch a good player at work and see how they often switch to pistol - gas blowback but nigh on most are single shot only as they switch to pistol they glide and really is an awsome sight site to watch from the dead zone it is the PLAYER - not the gun that wins the game I have broke loads taking the pi$$ and learnt a lot - still learning so the last thing I'd advise anybody to do is simply go nutz unless you really like seeing the errors of bad teching and simply just taking the pi$$ too much ease up - tweak a stock gun to 20 to 25 and it will last, your mags should feed ok and you won't look like a w@nker

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/11381-ics-l85a2/ they say his ics auto locks onto targets & shoots on its own think any info you need will be in there

Another ukara vcra war on the horizon......... I think technically you can't remanufacture an IF into a RIF somewhere in the vcra it states that but does not clearly state that even if you have a defense/ukara you are allowed to turn an IF into RIF yeah kind of sounds daft but sure it reads something like that in there pages and pages etc...... so we have various posts/wars on the exact word for wording of the vcra how this will all be policed and implemented remains open for question Plus most sites won't care too much if you posses a RIF or a repainted IF you could have obtained the gun before 2007 or been gifted it even if you are u18 From a Law point of view - you are not allowed to remanufacture but where this may lead to if you have a defense - ukara is only one type of defense blah blah blah if you are a regular skirmisher then you have a sort of defense so you have some sort of reason to possess a RIF - how valid this is remains open for questioning but all the same you would have a reason or defense to be in possesion of a RIF Another factor is if the prosecution could prove that YOU actually remanufactured it or did the 2-tone ahem wear off so to speak..... The easiest answer is cover with tape at your site remove tape when you leave = IF still it - the vcra is not quite so crystal clear in every detail and can be read a different way or interpreted slightly differently I will sate right here and now I myself may have got it so very very wrong and in no way am I saying yes it will be fine It is down to you to determine exactly where you stand on a legal side of things.... I'm no barrister - no way.... The most important thing above all else is to ensure that don't be a dick drawing attention to yourself gun in bag and act responsibly on & off the field - thus drawing little attention to yourself The police tbh - won't really give a toss as long as you ain't a dick and can prove your defense/ukara/skirmish site etc... (most of them won't even know the full vcra and where airsoft fits in anyway) As to spraying the gun - keep the 2-tone parts well away from Fairy Power Spray as this can remove or erode the paint away (so I am lead to think) If after all this we have have another ukara/vcra bloodbath - just remember, YOU started it

it is a good idea that G&P implement.... until you want to swap out a m120 motor for something better on v3's with motor cage I could solder if I wanted 101% contact but tbh on v3's with cage/frame the connectors are straight so don't break so much On v2's with pistol grip cramming it all in there it becomes an issue Anyway - there are a number of options available its your gun - use what you feel best

is balance board connected correctly ?? other than that watch this vid - ALL OF IT !!! (OK first 1:30 mins the bloke is dicking about a bit but watch the rest for sure) and CAREFULLY start charging to get it above the low voltage mark then it should attempt to work ok note your charger seems to be similar to B6 type but this is best I can offer - be careful and charge in a safe place on worktop in garage or deffo not on floor/bed etc.... hope this works - be careful I know there is a way to force charge lipo's for when some chargers/lipo's only take 90% charge and people top up to near the max 4.2v per cell BUT that is for people who know what they are doing What your lipo's have is a charge below its limit and in vid it will force some juice into them Then it should no longer get error and hopefully charge up normally on lipo program Other than than it is gonna be a case of getting dean-s.tamiya so you can use yours (or fit deans to yours but only if you can solder and cut+solder ONE WIRE AT A TIME)

What charger and have you used this charger/battery before ???

All springs will lose a bit over time..... chrono's will vary a smidge - some more than others - but usually xcortech's are pretty much accurate as possible Though at TWA it was just on borders of 350 - 352 now it could be starting to break in now - no offense but I probably did more shots in morning than you did all day Mall is max 340 I think.... what you could do is leave gun precocked pop rear pin, slide top receiver forward on CM18 you should see the blue cylinder with a hole/port in it - one left/right side pull trigger and watch for piston going back past the port leave it in this precocked state overnight re-test Saturday - bet it would of dropped a bit more to be absolute honest if somebody's gun was a smidge smidge over on the Mall's chrono I ain't gonna worry about 5fps it is people shooting like dicks overkill etc... that pi$$ me off more than 5fps what is ya mp5 shooting coz that was on borders of the Mall you said so compare the two guns and see if they are similar or the chrono you got might be say 5% or so out... test ya mp5 first and see what ya get before doing owt if it ain't broke - give it to me I'll f*ck it up for sure

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100PCS-2-8mm-Uninsulated-Female-Right-Angle-Crimp-Spade-Terminal-Connectors-Hot-/151312487428 OR Shape the connectors - but re-enforce them with blob of solder at the bends NOTE - hold connector up/wires down whilst doing this as if excess solder runs into spade connector itself - ya f*cked to get it on later so any excess solder will run back - what ya doing it strengthening the elbow joint also giving it more conductive connection too as had these weakened connectors blow on me like a lame bladed fuse Only time I have ever soldered direct to motor was on a v3 with AK motor frame at least I can easily remove that - but a v2 M4 - pain in the ar$e if soldered either of those two ideas above should get you good connection and little resistance not much behind the die hard solder everything for least resistance and max response mofo's

Think that might have been most of your team it's fine - just their way of saying - We are right behind ya - OUCH

From the sounds of it, you got a SR25 G&G front end on a normal M4 So it looks DMR but without the bespoke hop nozzle bollox So you got easy to replace/upgrade basis with a "My M4 is bigger than yours" looks Sounds a good price to me

Damn it - read the title and thought it was a post about ovens.... Gas is what pro's use Electric - some of the newer ones have fan assist as for airsoft - aeg rifle for most people gas pistol (blowback nigh on most use/have)

Never used them or Gunfire no wait - oh those sods who made me buy more n more n more n more yes theyr'e sound 101% as long as you got ukara once you got that - kiss your wallet goodbye first order might take one or two days extra whilst they run a paypal check (sure both my first orders at TWG & GF were a bit slow but after the "few" other orders flew through) Rate TWG slightly faster shipping than GF - not much but Monday orders usually arrive by Friday from TWG Gunfire - hmm little hit n miss if they arrive Friday or following Monday Gunfire have bigger selection and when they have sale on prices go really mental - gimme gimme gimme But often TWG do stuff a bit cheaper than GF but limited range of spares I live at both websites - but keeping to my new years resolution of not buying any more guns - just spares now n then Don't care if we come out of EU now - got enough crap to last me for yonks

inside the hop is a little bit of plastic - the nub don't loose that ffs it goes in the arm and presses down on bucking... uhmm ergh I didn't quite mean strip down the hop completely I mean see if looks shagged but there is no spring on the hop unit pushing it back to box like I said M4 type - short version of your hop: see the spring - well you will need more than just one little o-ring that little o-ring is more like a stabilising o-ring or one used to steady it in a tube barrels are shipped in you have the brass collar used to steady the barrel at hop unit end but that o-ring I'd say is not gonna do much to push hop unit backwards not that the spring is that brilliant - see if you can find a similar spring maybe in a clicky ball point pen or something or add more o-rings whilst assembling bucking/hop a bit of ptfe wrapped around bucking - but very thinly done you can't wrap metres round bucking or she won't go in the hop but helps to stop leaks around bucking/barrel in hop google this mod and also the cylinder head mod - ptfe is very good for stopping leaks if done with care Also I did say make a fresh post to help attract other clever mofo's (mofo = motherf*cker but used in lighthearted terms) a good posting place would be: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/forum/27-electric-guns/

agreed - length doesn't always mean more (I keep telling Mrs Duck that one - but she still laughs at my excuses) Sometimes you can feel a strong short spring when closing up box but often that means only a rough rough guide reason I say that is one time I was fitting a m105 and thought wtf this is a bit beefy.... turns out I grabbed a m115 and wondered why I was shooting 380fps - ahhh the m105 still inits packet but missing m115 spring enlightened me to one of my many many foolish mistakes