Sitting Duck

All springs will lose a bit over time..... chrono's will vary a smidge - some more than others - but usually xcortech's are pretty much accurate as possible Though at TWA it was just on borders of 350 - 352 now it could be starting to break in now - no offense but I probably did more shots in morning than you did all day Mall is max 340 I think.... what you could do is leave gun precocked pop rear pin, slide top receiver forward on CM18 you should see the blue cylinder with a hole/port in it - one left/right side pull trigger and watch for piston going back past the port leave it in this precocked state overnight re-test Saturday - bet it would of dropped a bit more to be absolute honest if somebody's gun was a smidge smidge over on the Mall's chrono I ain't gonna worry about 5fps it is people shooting like dicks overkill etc... that pi$$ me off more than 5fps what is ya mp5 shooting coz that was on borders of the Mall you said so compare the two guns and see if they are similar or the chrono you got might be say 5% or so out... test ya mp5 first and see what ya get before doing owt if it ain't broke - give it to me I'll f*ck it up for sure

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100PCS-2-8mm-Uninsulated-Female-Right-Angle-Crimp-Spade-Terminal-Connectors-Hot-/151312487428 OR Shape the connectors - but re-enforce them with blob of solder at the bends NOTE - hold connector up/wires down whilst doing this as if excess solder runs into spade connector itself - ya f*cked to get it on later so any excess solder will run back - what ya doing it strengthening the elbow joint also giving it more conductive connection too as had these weakened connectors blow on me like a lame bladed fuse Only time I have ever soldered direct to motor was on a v3 with AK motor frame at least I can easily remove that - but a v2 M4 - pain in the ar$e if soldered either of those two ideas above should get you good connection and little resistance not much behind the die hard solder everything for least resistance and max response mofo's

Think that might have been most of your team it's fine - just their way of saying - We are right behind ya - OUCH

From the sounds of it, you got a SR25 G&G front end on a normal M4 So it looks DMR but without the bespoke hop nozzle bollox So you got easy to replace/upgrade basis with a "My M4 is bigger than yours" looks Sounds a good price to me

Damn it - read the title and thought it was a post about ovens.... Gas is what pro's use Electric - some of the newer ones have fan assist as for airsoft - aeg rifle for most people gas pistol (blowback nigh on most use/have)

Never used them or Gunfire no wait - oh those sods who made me buy more n more n more n more yes theyr'e sound 101% as long as you got ukara once you got that - kiss your wallet goodbye first order might take one or two days extra whilst they run a paypal check (sure both my first orders at TWG & GF were a bit slow but after the "few" other orders flew through) Rate TWG slightly faster shipping than GF - not much but Monday orders usually arrive by Friday from TWG Gunfire - hmm little hit n miss if they arrive Friday or following Monday Gunfire have bigger selection and when they have sale on prices go really mental - gimme gimme gimme But often TWG do stuff a bit cheaper than GF but limited range of spares I live at both websites - but keeping to my new years resolution of not buying any more guns - just spares now n then Don't care if we come out of EU now - got enough crap to last me for yonks

inside the hop is a little bit of plastic - the nub don't loose that ffs it goes in the arm and presses down on bucking... uhmm ergh I didn't quite mean strip down the hop completely I mean see if looks shagged but there is no spring on the hop unit pushing it back to box like I said M4 type - short version of your hop: see the spring - well you will need more than just one little o-ring that little o-ring is more like a stabilising o-ring or one used to steady it in a tube barrels are shipped in you have the brass collar used to steady the barrel at hop unit end but that o-ring I'd say is not gonna do much to push hop unit backwards not that the spring is that brilliant - see if you can find a similar spring maybe in a clicky ball point pen or something or add more o-rings whilst assembling bucking/hop a bit of ptfe wrapped around bucking - but very thinly done you can't wrap metres round bucking or she won't go in the hop but helps to stop leaks around bucking/barrel in hop google this mod and also the cylinder head mod - ptfe is very good for stopping leaks if done with care Also I did say make a fresh post to help attract other clever mofo's (mofo = motherf*cker but used in lighthearted terms) a good posting place would be: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/forum/27-electric-guns/

agreed - length doesn't always mean more (I keep telling Mrs Duck that one - but she still laughs at my excuses) Sometimes you can feel a strong short spring when closing up box but often that means only a rough rough guide reason I say that is one time I was fitting a m105 and thought wtf this is a bit beefy.... turns out I grabbed a m115 and wondered why I was shooting 380fps - ahhh the m105 still inits packet but missing m115 spring enlightened me to one of my many many foolish mistakes

F*ck me that is $hit !!! you got air pi$$ing out eveywhere on that one if it was some lame ar$e spring you'd be going 10 to the dozen even with a lame G&G motor now the GR25 uses or should a long metal mofo hop unit and a mega long mofo nozzle too How old is the gun and if you bought new ?? just saying speak to retailer if quite new if old then see if still has the spring on hop unit pushing it back to gearbox to seal it (they can come adrift or just dissappear) separate the 2 halves of gun and look at hop unit/barrel - check spring is there on the nipple/lug pushing it back to box to seal Also check nozzle condition - plastic mofo length - could be chipped or cracked it's a long bastid like the friggin' hop unit - normal v2 box but some bitch decided to use bespoke hop/nozzle ffs an Aug type nozzle "might" fit as they are quite long but this is still a silly guess at best (replacement nozzles can be sourced from Z1 or LWA + others) check whilst you got the 2 halves separated - see if bucking looks ok though it may look ok but could be damaged/torn/worn - see if the bulge from the nub pressing down is working at least you could have a torn bucking or probably a couple of issues so see if owt looks iffy then try to cycle gun - leaving nozzle fully released - max nozzle showing (this may have to be half cocked or nearly ready to fire coz moment piston fires by the time cut off lever kicks in the nozzle is starting to retract again to load a bb) anyway try and get nozzle as far forward as possible right up against the front of gearbox now place the hop against the box and you should feel the nozzle sealing - should feel a bit of resistance and suppose you could blow down barrel with hop pressed against box - should seal pulling barrel/hop a smidge away - and I mean a smidge - you should have about 1mm before you lose seal I'm trying to give you some ideas where to look for such a big leak before you go nutz and rip box open - a fair bit of loss is likely to be hop related could be also inside box but reckon 75% is going to be outside the box (though cracked nozzle - cracked piston or damaged o-ring is going to need opening of gearbox) the piston head on G&G's is crap imho but not that bad to lose that much compression especially on a long barrel where you would expect if anything a bit of creep or slightly higher fps than shorter barrel guns conduct numerous tests and examinations on the hop sealing against box - it could be badly aligned causing nozzle to seal off centre often the box can tip backwards and nozzle rides high, rubbing on hop at 12 o'clock - but usually you would see some tell tale signs marks on nozzle or bits of black where nozzle was rubbing..... look at gearbox sitting in receiver - if pulled backwards & upwards you can begin to see the lines may not be true to each other also where the trigger is underneath a gap appears in front of trigger - another indicator the box was gone backwards and up at front How does the box sound - trying see if something has broke inside box like piston/spring even but still think most is going to nozzle/hop area related let us know any history of this gun - anybody ripped her open before and bodged it up how old is it etc.... and if possible take some pictures - I'm not an expert on G&G 25's - don't own one but maybe others might have had one and can shed some light on their common faults a bit do some basic checks like see how the hop seals against box etc.... yes some ptfe will help to stop or reduce some leaks but only if they need them and it is easier if you know where the main fault(s) might be don't think it is a blowback box - the G&G pbb boxes can crack a bit easier than the normal non blowback boxes but you will see quite quickly if box is cracked at front.... My money is on the nozzle & hop not meeting that they are nigh on divorced let alone seperated the spring can be missing - but some small o-rings infront of hop can help push the hop back to box and seal properly I am not a guru on these long nozzle long hop and long cylinder head mofo's so I am not the best person to advise - not gonna fill ya with bull$hit in an area I know f*ck all about (shut up the rest of ya) What I do suggest is you run some tests and examinations yourself post some pictures up in a new thread so the experienced GR25 chaps out there can concentrate on helping you further a quick searchy brings up pi$$ poor seals could be inside the box on the weird long mofo cylinder head http://forums.zeroin.co.uk/showthread.php?256875-Urgent-G-amp-G-GR25-DMR-help but check that hop unit seal first - then move onto testing other areas like inside box afterwards do some checks - post some pics I'm sure it is a daft $hit seal causing this drop

http://www.airsoftworld.net/g-g-gc16-30th-anniversary-limited-edition-aeg-airsoft-rifle-black.html if you got ukara then you can get good cheap G36c & AK's at TaiwanGun & Gunfire G&G's are best bought in UK as they are no cheaper elsewhere really plus UK retailer if owt goes wrong most guns can be upgraded if you wish and go as easy or as nutz as you like the GC16 30th is metal and is a very worthy consideration but most of the G&G guns around £150 are pretty decent it is all down to what looks you prefer they are all the same inside - just not easy picking just one (so true my bank balance says)

On a stock weak ferrite motor, to pull heavier springs over the m100 to m110 normal rating you may/will need torque gears with ratios above the normal 18:1 gears used in most stock guns otherwise weak ferrite motors may struggle on m120+ springs Note not all ferrite motors are that weak but they do not have the raw grunt/speed/response that neodym motors have On higher torque gears your trigger response will be lowered and do not even consider 32:1 gears crap at all - way too lame and will need a half tooth rack on piston it just ain't worth the hassle.... In fact even the helical cut 200:100 & 300:1 gear sets are not worth it Lozart and some others tried to use them - one of them is about a 23:1 set and think the other is about 27:1 but can't remember which is which - to be honest unless you are gonna try and pull something really daft eg: 600 fps upwards with a m180 spring or something you will be fine on stock gears but use a high torque neodym motor Most DMR people will be sticking with m130 to m140 springs so 18:1 gears will be fine though cheap nasty cheapo stock gears should be replaced if going nutz Higher speed gears help in increasing rate of fire & response but not quite as much as you might expect a 12:1 gear set should offer a 50% increase in rof but in reality often this is say 45% at best as the motor is having to work a little harder especially at from standstill I think your G&G 25 uses just a conventional v2 gearbox - not an extended v2 or v2.5 but don't quote me 101% - sure the G&G m14's use std piston/cylinder and think the sr25 use normal cylinder/piston lengths too if this is correct do not be tempted to get a great bit long STFU barrel longest you can go is around 450/469mm - ak size length but tbh numerous DMR's stay at 400mm or so long barrels mean little over this length - most stuff is all down to bucking n hop n a good clean barrel all set up very well What you need to decide is if you will use this as a DMR @ 425-450fps locked to semi or AEG @ 349.999fps and keep full auto Now according to G&G it comes as a 510mm barrel on the GR25 Sniper or a slightly shorter 465mm on the SPR version Shorter barrel would probably be best if turning into DMR as you have a normal V2 box yes you could just scrape by on volume on a 510mm barrel but if trying to shoot heavier 30gms then I would be looking at a bore up kit for piston cylinder and possibly only half correct AoE to try and ensure a decent amount of air volume is created for the mofo 510mm barrel Some say it will be ok - but it is pushing it on that longer barrel on a normal v2 gearbox Your accuracy comes from bucking/hop/barrel - roughly in that order unless something is badly out of whack Your fps, rof & efficiency & reliabilty comes from the gearbox (and a decent motor to pull heavier springs) plus good wiring, mosfet, lipo on deans etc...... The list is quite long and a classic example of where do start/stop You need to decide what type of gun you want improve the bucking area - see what you gun is shooting at fps wise increase spring and service gun with a few minor tweaks to improve seals and after that then go from there..... Not everybody likes the DMR role of hanging back, 30m single shot, doing less, crawling around but providing good overwatch & support can make or break a game but not as easy as many think, often many choose to forget this for a game of soldiers and go back to getting stuck in If you get your gun shooting well out to 50 or 60m as an aeg - that is pretty bloody good and can kick ar$e in most situations However getting accuracy is not quite as easy as slapping in a madbull barrel n crap get your gun @ 349.99 fps with good bucking/barrel and see how you go gearing if you wish 16:1 is a minor improvement that std guns will pull no problem when you want to go faster there is a bit more homework to be done as going above 20rps will lead to over running or double cycle if say above 25rps on m100 setups So I say to anybody decide on what you want, how far you want to go and do it stages at first very easy to screw it all up - done this & still doing this so if you want it to work & last then go steady and see each improvement bit by bit rather than replace everything - make it go like f*ck and wonder why she smashed herself to bits so quickly bucking - maybe flat hop, clean barrel or replace with a decent barrel if yours is crap but try just cleaning the stock barrel first and fix any leaks - see how she shoots - then decide on next stage Also try experimenting with different bb's - at least 0.25's up to 0.30's on 350fps aeg's (there are some inbetween weights like 0.23 & 0.28 but usually many use .25's at least for woodland) note some makes are great and some are crap - plus some guns hate some makes but other guns love them decent ammo helps but what weight & make - you will have to have a go yourself and see what works/doesn't Jeez - am I on a bollox roll today now I understand why my keyboards break quicker than my guns soz - got carried away - again

Well I was trying being to be a little more subtle But suppose the honest & direct approach also known as blunt works the same I guess

http://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/armalite-140rd-m4-mid-caps-box-set-10-grey-m16-magazine-10476-p.asp or have a look around - mid caps will need speed loader though but they are pretty good plastic mid caps that feed very well inmost m4's get a m8 to go in with ya blah blah blah alternatively - if ya that good your accuracy is $hit hot so you won't need to keep winding so much or look at gimmicky drum/box mags electric winding blah blah blah but many use/have them armalites including moi

Not going to lecture but tbh if my budget was £350 I'd get a new bucking(s) to start with, maybe spend up to £50 getting shooting better - maybe hop and/or zci tbb (said all this earlier) Then buy a better gun like Krytac or something keeping the SRC as a half decent spare/backup gun rather than pour up to £350 into just one SRC up to you though but think I'd set say a £50 limit on the SRC myself these toy guns need a little money but mostly time and care if you want good performance chucking money at stuff doesn't always work - most of it is down to ensuring the stuff is fitted and working properly soz said I wasn't going to lecture - ooops

I've used acouple of various targets of junk... aprox 80ft there is an old rusty dustbin - get it hitting that and even if you fail to see every single shot you can hear it by the tang sound it makes..... Then move onto a 4pt plastic milk bottle near it - adjust/tweak to improve accuracy bit better makes a distinctive thud sound Finally a smaller target like a small thin aerosol deodorant can - little bit harder to hit but makes a nice tink sound when I'm starting to get there now this is only just under 25m but it is a rough quick check to get sights roughly set up if bb's are curving off at longer range then your sights won't help for curvey flyers yes if gun was shooting ultra true I'd be conducting longer target tests heck suppose a range if I had a really good gun or accurate sniper but is an easy basic test I use to help set it up a bit better without having to go trudging down to examine how good the groupings are or not if I hit that aerosol can with say 4 out 5 attempts I'm pretty happy with gun and sights

I think it may still have the classic TM 2 piece hop unit in there... rear pin out andshe should lift/tilt upwards on 2 piece hop guns problem is when you slide off them 2 piece hop receivers like a 1 piece hop gun you can very easily snap off them tabs especially on plastic/polymer receivers BUT I don't know the whole SRC Range that well - just the crappy lower end stuff that I know used the 2-piece hop it might not have the tabs on upper reciever so can slide off - if its this type you should see a small lug at back of receiver that aligns into lower receiver (obviously to slide off the front receiver pin has to get removed and not needed to remove the rear pin) 2 piece was designed to quickly and easily gain access to top half of the 2-piece hop unit in old style guns but has nigh on been replaced by one piece hop units these days cheapest option is to experiment with different buckings and ensure nub is fitted along with hop spring pushing it back to seal those two things seem to dissappear. clean barrel, try a mediocre one like zci madbull I wasn't ultra impressed with myselfwhen I tried a long tbb one - python I think or at higher end Laylax Prometheus or PDI - but most of what you seek is going to need the hop/bucking as best as possible The bucking first, if it has a 2-piece hop unit on a plastic receiver it can be dremmel'd easily with care to accept the more common 1 piece hop unit then you can look at many different hop units like a pro-win hop perhaps metal receiver will require a little bit more careful work but can be done now if you got a 1 piece hop in there you can change it out anyway But the bucking and little barrel clean is first place to start would lay money the bucking £5 to £10 is torn or worn and is why you gun has gradually been getting worse could also be a fps drop which could come from bad seal - main culprit could be the bucking rather than a complete rebuild of gearbox so this is why we bang on so much about the hop/bucking - most loss of accuracy and also fps drop will happen if bucking is worn/torn/bad sealing try out a bucking or two - even cheap shs ok-ish bucking or guarder black or G&G green bucking should help Samurai may know a lot more about the middle range of SRC's as he may have more experience on them than me on lower end stuff He may be able to know exactly what they are internally stock wise and if upper receiver is old skool tabs or not SRC M4 RIS metal/plastic is tabbed SRC M4 Dragon (deffo plastic) doesn't have the 2 tabs at rear but still has 2 piece hop unit That is really all I know

m90 & correct AoE (AoE will drop 10-15 fps max) if/when fps drops a smidge in 6months or so then next service fit bearing spring guide that will put back 10-15fps once she drops to 325 or so

On AB fets the split nano second the signal may spike - the polarity will reverse - not good and continue to run correct direction again.... On normal non-AB fets you won't get the reverse polarity like on AB ones if there was any split second spike/signal bounce So I feel extra stuff like pull down resistors etc.. are not needed for most toy gun apllications Mofo spectres etc.. will have filtering as the tiny tiny proximity switches used are the same micro proximity switches used in dvd players to signal the limits of the dvd laser etc.... amongst many many other uses - these switches are very tiny with hardly much contacts so yes think they could spike and need a filter I'll accept that tactile switches - hmmm somewhere in between the conventional switch contacts and a micro proximity - might be ok I'd say on a 3034 End of the day it is just a basic mosfet - the TVS diode is to protect the fet from spikes the motor may benefit from additional protection perhaps on AB but think on normal fets it will be alright carbon will build up eventually and new brushes & re-cutting the communator is an option but tbh most may just get another motor and perhaps keep a old neodym handy to rebuild with some brushes/armature from a half decent stock ferrite if they wish end of day a fet is still gonna better than running with no fet and on smaller switches like even modest size microswitches some basic must be used or the contacts will fry well before the motor gives out yes in industry circuits need protecting and ensure clean signals are sent spike free basic toy guns - hmmm perhaps not always a must on basic 3034's - AB's might be different I'll admit but not used one to confirm Now I'm no expert - I will clearly admit to that but thinking about it you seem to be onto something on reflection.... On AB mosfets that can make motor run warmer from the Active Braking.... I wonder if the spikes are contributing to this further by possible spikes causing the AB to operate in reverse on each trigger pull just for a tiny microscopic nano second then cycling correctly as signal settles.... YES - that does seem to make, sense signal bounce especially on AB's could further increase wear/heat from the way the AB operates Very likely that if filtering was used on AB's especially it could very well reduce heat & wear like you said sir So I'll agree on the AB side of things Maybe not that important on basic fets But you would know a massive more about this than moi not gonna argue - I think we may be both correct depending on the type of mosfet used If I'm very wrong then I stand corrected - peace my way more techy member

Thought most of us used HobbyKing and now I think HK UK sell the airsoft batteries now so you don't have to order their Airsoft ones from HK EU or Hong Kong oh well - live n learn for next time

ouch 14awg takes some modding..... yeah it can go in say a rear wired ak but routing it through a v2 - heck even G&G's have little room and need a bit of dremmel work to get 16awg in there Turnigy 16awg is about 3.0mm and is still a bit tightin G&G M4's especially if rear wired with 2 wires back to fet so you got a 16awg plus 2 thin fet wires - supply+signal wires to fet, plus negative wire than gets close to restricting the G&G AR latch operating 101% - swapping out a different ar latch but still a bit of dremmel n file work - pain major pain - but when done the thicker wire and mosfet with deans really improves response and unleashes hell over stock setup PTFE is ok and insulation is tougher - doesn't split like silicone can if trapped or nicked easily but is stiffer insulation so shape it well coz it doesn't flex like silicone so can pull on motor connectors and such if not shaped presume you are gonna light up the madbull tracer unit on the posi side rather than trigger side of switch or it will take a couple/few tracers to pop out lit up correctly some fit a small connector or switch to the tracer unit but this works better on front wired m4 as opposed to rear wired oooh there a number of ways to wire stuff in, even running the fet's signal wire outside the gearbox if needed and you think motor might catch wires inside box have a look around - google up some images of others work so you can get some possible options of what might work best with least agro if its your first build - don't worry too much it may be a bit untidy at first but your next build and others will be a lot neater & tidier I'm sure maybe wire in a tiny mico connector for hop unit - like a tiny micro deans or JST type connector so you can plug it in/out when needed or not - then concentrate on just the gearbox wiring then look at tracer unit later.... Don't wanna bite off too much at once - so you can get each bit sorted at a time or have lots of spaghetti wires everywhere trying to shim & close up box etc..... best of luck

no cons for 16:1 actual ratio is about 17.25:1 compared to 18.65 on 18:1 not quite a true 11% more like 8% but no real extra strain on motors would be all I'd go with a speed motor - they are quick but get warm on semi spamming 13:1 or 12:1 would be best only if you got torque motor next time you swap out a motor try and get a Big Dragon M160 motor = mental !!! faster than a shs torque and like a speed motor but with plenty of grunt like torquey one Back to 16:1 gear sets, I'm 99% certain it is only the spur gear that really changes slightly most sets seem to use a 10 tooth bevel to spur gear and pretty damn sure the sector gears are same or nigh on the same meaning..... If owt goes crunch, you "should" have the possible option of using old bevel gear and/or a spare sector gear that could be used to experiment with Short Stroking... Most gears use 10 tooth bevel, though the odd curve ball like G&G and some other makes do 9 or 8 teeth bevel that results in 20 or 22:1 ratios Real speed freaks search out the 11 teeth bevel gears but mostly 10 teeth are used in most sets.... Other higher speed sets use spurs & sector gears that are not so compatible eg: 12:1 sector or spur gear goes crunch - you are f*cked - new set required OK some gears may not mesh 101% butterly smooth with other gears but on 16:1 you "should" be able to use old 18:1 bevel & sector if it goes crunch and tetth break after a mega box lockup

would this work - http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__67727__Turnigy_nano_tech_1300mAh_2S_25_50C_Lipo_AIRSOFT_Pack_T_connector_.html just a smidge over but reckon it might be ok to fit in ak dust cover sure Ian uses these or stuff like it check out hobbyking's airsoft stick batteries

http://www.firestormsystems.com/shop/electronics/mosfet-switch.html bloody good little mofo there ready to rock n roll for a tenner delivered or make your own 3034 fet but only get true genuine 3034's from places like farnell or rswww you need to buy a number of fets but if you go in with a few people the bits come down to about £3:50 plus you can make the fets as to each spec of gun - though tbh build a few fets at same time whilst iron is out tbh - it is a bit of work to make just one single mosfet the f-storm one is one of cheapest best value one around and for doing one gun or two whybother building ya own there are others like nano gates, some may like AB but a straight forward non ab will do most people yes you can get debounce but if the operation of switch is true, strong and correct it will be fine so unless it is pi$$ poor switch or maybe AB fets could start to reverse polarity for a tiny nano split second on bouncey signals a normal simple fet will be fine - well I think so

V3 deffo has long trigger pull due to wear in the 2piece trigger an old JG G36c, a Galaxy mp5k plus another one I was tinkering with was a joke with loads of slack finally switch engages right near the absolute very end of travel there was considerable wear/slack on the 2nd "cam lever" of mechanism so replacing that helped but can reduce the total travel further with some glue & thin 1mm to 2mm plastic mine wasn't not exactly ultra hairline - but reduced travel for sure V2's are not that bad but think they are an easier mod than v3 one for people who want absolute instant response, hairline trigger, precocking blah blah blah but yeah an experienced player can kick ar$e even without all the crazy stuff I looked into some of the v3 trigger stuff coz some boxes were quite full of play/wear/slack and like said only just about seemed to engage at end of travel The trigger mod is not a must do mod, but many assume a microswitch will give shorter trigger pull but if keeping cut off lever then any old skool type trigger system still needs close careful tweaking as every box/trigger is different only attempt if you are quite sensible, ready to spend time & time checking and above have some spares to start over if you totally screw up

And if you fit a mosfet your contacts won't burn out again Which on any gearbox with microswitch they burn out like f*ck without a fet So fit a mosfet, stick to old skool trigger setup - not 101% perfect but works quite well cheap n easy to replace etc.... microswitch - hairline trigger crap etc.... can be done on old skool triggers quite well if you have half a brain and a little time.... http://www.ptairsoft.org/forum/index.php?topic=44665.0 yes you will need to translate it but this is similar to what I started looking into and this method I think is best all round mod to reduce trigger pull on v2's and V3's still a bit of mod-test-mod a bit more but does seem best method so far JB Weld or epoxy glue is better than using superglue imho bit of plastic - bloody neat trigger mod (mosfet of course) sod microswitch imho As Samurai said learn trigger discipline if contacts are charred & carbon'd - but seems like it still works then after a clean up they will be fine if cut-off & trigger works ok then fit fet and contacts should be fine reason I say this is that "sometimes" fitting a new switch may just need a slight check/file to get new switch to work 101% correctly heard shs switches - that are good needs a tiny mod in some guns & others they work perfectly as is just the norm with all stuff as many many times TM compatible is rarely 101% TM compatible for every box out there sounds to me - existing switch is still ok but just a bit dirty - though I haven't got it in front of me if it still works - then clean it and keep it afterthought.... yes some people have replaced the "prongs" or contacts with a 6mm or smaller tactile switch but this makes a little clicky noise when in use that many microswitches do but obviously like all microswitches you MUST use a fet and even then you won't get a hairline trigger until you do the mod properly eg: takes out the slack in trigger travel carefully checking and slight modding to cut off lever or without the mod the travel will be too short for correct operation both semi & auto so yeah you can fit a microswitch using a tactile like above, replacing the contacts but keeping most of existing switch system but still will need a bit of modding if trying to do it properly with hairline trigger me - may as well stick to old skool if it works, fit fet and at least take out slack a little to reduce trigger pull a bit