concretesnail
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Posts posted by concretesnail
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Welcome to the loony bin, I play Northern Midlands and Manchester sites wheni get a chance, there's some good folk about and I'm sure you'll find a groove.
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22 minutes ago, emilianoksa said:
Just an update.
I have withdrawn the gun from sale and told him that he was too late in giving me his details. According to what he has told me, I have no right to check them anyway.
He has said he will give me a negative feedback report, and that he will make an enquiry with the information commissioner to verify that I have "lawfully" - I assume he means unlawfully - obtained access to the UKARA database.
I have just checked and he has indeed given me a rotten feedback. He claims he has the transcript that will justify his complaint. So do I.
I wouldn't worry, someone with their head that far up their own arse will end up with shit on their face in the end.
Just be glad to be rid of them.
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The potential buyer is a prick.
Ukara wouldn't release any information he wouldn't be giving you already; name, address, etc. If you're shipping to him.
If a retailer confirms active or non active only then they aren't releasing any personal data either so aren't in breach of data protection, they are confirming only what you have offered.
If they have been a police officer in the past then the lack of intelligence seems to make me glad to think that they no longer are.
Forget them as a buyer, move on or keep the rif.
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Cyma are solid workhorse aeg wise and are often peoples "go to" especially the ak lines. The Specna range has been steadily getting over the years and are usually good value when compared to g&g who have somewhat stood still.
In all honesty I'd see if you can get your hands on the rifs you fancy. Something that looks about right on screen doesn't feel the same in hand. I have a g&g and hated the pistol grip, the idea of a moulded grip is great, if it fits your grip and form. On screen based aesthetics I'd likely opt for the specna h20. Fixed optics are no bad thing and they can easily be removed.
So head for good shop or find some folk on the field that have rifs you like the look of and ask them about it. Most folk will also let you have a crack with it too.
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Lots casual fun before but it got serious with the G3A3 in rainbow 6 multiplayer. Just shoot through the door if it starts to open.
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11 minutes ago, Lozart said:
Something worth remembering when spending money on real steel optics - airsoft rails are not always in spec so the real steel optics may just not grip properly so holding zero may be a bit pot luck regardless of how expensive your optics are!
Very true.
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I've had some replica optics repeatedly loose zero on gbbr with stronger recoil, so transitioned over to using optics for real steel shooting, as i dropped on a good deal. Better quality air rifle optics should be up to the job, something with lockable adjustment.
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With tamiya im sure it's the pins rather than the shell which genders the terminal.
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That's what I'm thinking right now. I've email perun to ask about the hybrid a retaining the empty mag cut-off. Thinking that if I reroute the signal wire via the mag switch....
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Thanks for the response davo but i know its not the battery, its a full charged 11.1v lipo. I know the motor is clearly strong enough as the rif cycles fine with the perun connected and isn't jammed. Currently both the semi position and the auto are firing in semi with the perun connected. But the perun won't go into setup mode, which is accessed by switching from semi into auto and back again very quickly at least twice.
This is why I think it migh be an etu fault. The perun runs semi on both as it doesn't 'see' the second switch, and goes with what it knows, fring in semi. While the g&g mosfet just has a hissey nd does nothing. How if it the micro switch that triggers full auto is dead then the perun won't know it's being asked to go into setup mode.
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As far as I'm aware the ukara only last 12months and then has to renewed by a site. I should be possible to for a retailer to see if that particular number is "active" or "dormant", then confirm either way for an enquiring party without having to divulge any details.
So the ukara number should be the only information passed to the third party. Then you yourself would be giving the name and address to the seller for shipping.
I believe that is how I should work, as the ukara is only there to facilitate distance selling. This is just how I understand it and and happy to be corrected/informed if it differs either way.
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Site rules apply but if its supposed to be an arm band it should remain an arm band.
If the site doesn't object to the armband moving shoot on sight.
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I have a possible issue and wondered of anyone has gone through it already.
G&g etu and perun etu++, rif runs fine in semi and is firing in semi in the second position too. Perun won't go into setting mode.
Then on a whim I popped the g&g mosfet back in and it just beeps (video of the g&g beeps to follow)
I'm thinking that the second switch which runs the second fire setting isn't working. Meaning that the perun is defaulting to single shot and the g&g mosfet is just refusing to cycle.
On visual inspection of the etu all the micro switches are intact and functional (move and return) but short of stripping the gear box and getting the multimeter on it I cant 100% confirm it.
How likely is the issue to be within the etu unit? -
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If you have an electronic trigger of sort or mosfet in the rif already then warhead brushless is a great drop in that will effectively improve response as it take less time to spin up and cycle. I appreciate they aren't cheap but they aren't rif specific and you could take it out and sell it on or move it to another rif.
Outside of the motor short stroke or precock mosfets can get the feel too but require more work.
I recently dropped a new motor into an older rif as I wanted a quicker cycle, I didn't go for the warhead. Its better than it was but I regret not opting for the warhead having now used one.
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I'd second the baofeng. I've been using them for years and they are still going. I run a fist mic attached to my rig then plug in my earpro when I wearing them. The only mod I did to the fist mic was to add a mute switch so I could sneak up to folk and not have the radio give me away.
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That's the sort of idea just too chunk.
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Not like those, I was thinking more of something that sits between the power connection and the rif, like gate mosfet style. I've tried the little, but they don't cut off just sound with voltage dips in the cells.
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Afternoon folks
Does anyone know of a low voltage cutoff unit that is standalone?
Something you can connect like an plug in mosfet type/style. My brain is puddled this afternoon, too tired and can't think of one.
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I used devil blasters in the past but moved over to Geoffs and been on thenm ever since.
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Emergencychimps has hit the nail straight on the head. Fit is everything. I'd spend in footware much readily than the latest kit, and a good pair will last and be versatile so you can wear them more.
- Tommikka and Emergencychimps
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Glad you enjoyed the lower round count and reloading.
A habit I began when playing gbbr was to drop a bag in the respawn area with a collection of magazines.
Rather than refilling the empties, for a quicker turnaround, drop the empties and load up in the full ones.
It's still something I do now when playing with aeg low caps. It's a lovely convenience.
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A new liner for one of the cases.
- RobHedley, Nick G and Skullchewer
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3
G&G etu L22 (the stubby SA80) only shooting full auto
in Electric Guns
Posted
Do you know which trigger unit it has? If it is the micro switch type the it be worth running the gear box outside if the rif and manually operating the selector plate. I had a build recently where the selector plate had warped slightly and would not put enough pressure on the switch to activate, similar symptoms to you, the same function in both possible positions.