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Adolf Hamster

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Everything posted by Adolf Hamster

  1. we've been here before too dammit sir! you have broken the chain!
  2. in fairness, that pic might be creative, but not sure i'd call it blind firing? still has an arm and a face to shoot at....
  3. this is kind of the point of the thread, north of 20 generally being considered faster than necessary. can confirm, fell for that trap and the simple version is against a sufficiently plot-armour clad target no volume of plastic is sufficient.
  4. whiteholespewingtimeenginesdeadadviceplease
  5. it's not necessarily the brand of bb's, but the majority of times i've seen this issue, better bb's have fixed the problem. particularly when it's binding in the magazine is the root cause. that said, it's typically an issue you'd see more often in midcaps with a double stack single-feed, as opposed to hicaps which are single stack single feed (and as such don't bind so much) there are other candidates, weak magazine or a pew running too fast without a delayer chip (typically manifests on auto but not semi). a longer nozzle can do it but usually that blocks everything.
  6. is this on the specna's? because that was the exact issue (using laser dots admittedly) that started me down the path of running geoffs.
  7. not to mention i ain't so sure that material is weldable.....
  8. oh god it's not just your taste..... and bearing in mind i find the offset of a pk1 to be within acceptable limits........ i have run a mini dot on a gas block rail before (doctor/rmr type/size) which is nice and low and works quite well, although i'm a sucker for the siderail stuff.
  9. i've never seen one before but i'm guessing it's a white hole
  10. getting into the territory of personal preference. generally for a forward mounted optic a gas block replacement with an integrated rail tend to have adjustments that let you lock everything down tight for zero retention. ofc how much zero retention you care about in an airsoft pew is a different story, and if you're moving the optic to other guns then it's irrelevant anyway as you'd need to readjust on fitting. you may find that fitment won't be ideal, it's pretty normal for ak furniture to have a degree of fettling required to fit nice and tight on a given body.
  11. Unless cyma have decided to be weird about it, and i dont see why they would then that is how its supposed to come off (copies the original)
  12. it's entirely plausible that some guns will be better at handling bad ammo. especially as you start pushing for more performance they can become fussier eaters.
  13. I'm inclined to agree. There may well be something else going on, but ammo is a relatively easy thing to take out of the equation.
  14. the skeptic in me does wonder how often this is genuinely an insurance requirement rather than a hand-waving exercise. because if the insurance were going into such specifics then it'd be more than just co2 on the list to be banned.
  15. i see the profile badges have been updated....

    1. Show previous comments  2 more
    2. Rogerborg

      Rogerborg

      I like to bait masters.

       

      60416q.jpg

    3. Adolf Hamster

      Adolf Hamster

      @Rogerborg i've heard tis a popular hobby

    4. Tactical Pith Helmet

      Tactical Pith Helmet

      image.jpeg.aac6216b8c9381048a1e8528bd4f5f96.jpeg

       

      After years teching rifs in the mountains of Shaolin, the rank of master is achieved.  

  16. which isn't an excuse.
  17. sounds like they've decided banning hardware is the easy solution to the problem of asshole players which fills me with confidence over the standard of play.....
  18. it's a tricky one, as all guns do tend to sound different naturally, depending on the gearing, the motor etc. can be very subtle. loose isn't so much the problem as tight, which would drag on the motor. that said, it doesn't sound like it'd be tight enough to halt a 7.4v.....
  19. does kinda sound like she's stopping a bit quicker than she should. shims can be tricksy hobbitses, one drops free when opening up and will almost always drop such that it looks like it came from a different spot to where it was originally.
  20. no mosfet and if as @MagpieTactical says this battery has suggested this battery has given issues in another gun then i'm inclined to blame that. a checker can be very handy for situations like these, see not only the total output but also if perhaps a cell has decided to give up (some chargers have been known to fail on one charging circuit and kill a battery this way). the only other explanation would be if it's been tinkered with and something like the shimming is tight, then it might not have the juice to spin on the 7.4, although it would also sound labored on the other batteries.
  21. is there a mosfet involved?
  22. just match to the battery then. tamiya connectors can be weird in airsoft, they tend to be wired reverse to RC batteries so it's not a given that the colours match. presumably for the same reason as the eclectic wire colouring- because electrical engineers are a strange bunch. as long as you keep track in your mind (write it down if needs be) which goes where then that'll do the job. if the motor runs backwards just swap the wires over problem solved. you could try swapping the o rings over, see if that does it, there's other tricks like stretching the o rings or swapping them out for one slightly oversize. that's an alu head isn't it? i know some of the plastic mushroom heads have issues with the texture of the plastic giving a poor seal but the alu one shouldn't. never needed to cut a window and the only box i've had the luxury of viewing the motor mesh is the open bottomed a&k mg boxes, which funnily enough are awful for accumulating dirt+crap in them. start by getting the idler and sector shimmed down as far as they'll go (working on the left hand half of the box) and such that they're running free even when the box is tightened up and tilted all different directions. that'll give you the most wiggle room on the bevel to go up/down as needed, then shim that as above (so you know your starting point of say 1mm total, then you can swap shims from one side to the other to move it up and down) you can try the bevel in the right half with the motor cage in position to give a very rough starting point, then it's just try it, adjust, try it again. running the motor with just the gears can give an idea of how much noise there is, how smooth everything is sounding etc. once you've got the bevel height where you want it, check how much overlap there is between the pinion and the idler and if necessary raise the idler/sector just to keep a decent overlap (ie that you're not driving on only half the teeth)
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