Adolf Hamster

So i did manage to hpa one of those things. Engine i used was a polarstar jack, took an sr25 nozzle and machined it down to the right length (sorry cant remember the number) Wiring wise polarstar does a plug board that lets you solder into existing trigger connections, fortunately you've only got one fire mode to worry about. Fortunately there's tons of room inside the gearbox casing/rear of the reciever for the controller, battery and associated wiring gubbins and you can just run the wire out the hole for the mainspring. End result wasnt great accuracy wise although to be fair i have abnormally high standards in that department and for a support gun a little spread isnt the end of the world. If you care about accuracy there's no reason you couldn't do basically the same treatment but using a polarstar f2, which if you do a good job machining the nozzle to the right length and a good seal should be tunable to get some real good accuracy. For me i found the 42 whilst quite the head turner in the safe zone was pretty useless on the field, entirely down to how unweildy the platform is whilst offering no more firepower than you could have gotten from an arp9 at a third the length and quarter the weight. I'd also caution be very very careful not to be too rough with it or drop it, the reciever is not nearly as strong as it needs to be and will bend very easily. You can modify it with steel bars bolted on the inside which helps a ton, but also sadly weighs a ton.....

Not sure its possible to get enough backspin to be firing medicine balls at uk power limits.......

A very vague and not always accurate "test" for motors is to turn it by hand and feel how notchy it is to turn, which gives an indication on the strength of the magnets. Stronger magnets typically associates with more better (a lot of aftermarket motors like shs, asg, warhead etc will feel stronger) but that doesnt necessarily mean that a motor with weak feel can't be decent in-practice. That won't tell you anything about its notional speed rating, although presumably you already have an idea what sort of speed its putting out with your usual battery. If the motor polarity is reversed and the motor drives backwards the anti reversal latch will stop it, although symptomatically if that's whats happening you can usually hear/feel the motor "clicking" as it tries to start before getting blocked (unless the motor engagement is way too tight) The clicking will also occurr if for example the piston is jammed mid-cycle and locking the gearbox. If theres no reaction from pulling the trigger then it's going to be a break in connection, which could be anywhere in the wiring loom, although motor contacts being loose/broken and trigger contacts carboning up are both very common areas to go. Contacts can carbon up, hitting it with sandpaper will solve that, although make sure that they arent/dont get bent to the point they won't connect when the trolley is forward. You can test the electrics with the motor connected outside the gun, but make sure it's well secured to something because inertia is a thing.

As above, grip and maybe bolt release need to go. Tip for reassembly (and dissassembly) is it's better to install the pins first then grip then stock bolt, as the latter will pull the gearbox tight against the pins making it difficult or even impossible to push them in (certainly without damaging it). The reverse is true for dissassembly take the bolts out first then the pins should be relatively loose to pull. Like leo i tend to pull gearboxes out set to safe, but tbh whatever setting lets the gearbox come free/slide in is the one you want to use.

Eh, hamster's financial insensibility has been a life long ailment..... I did complete the original robot but iirc it broke pretty soon after that.

[trigger warning] I may have been using the 40w fixed heat soldering iron from the real robots magazine kit since that was a thing that existed. I may have just used random solder from amazon for everything I may have never used flux, ever It may have worked just fine [/Trigger warning]

If it makes a good connection and can handle the current then use whatever your comfortable with. Only real argument for deans versus others is there's a non-zero chance someone else on site will be running them, which is a boon if you need to borrow a battery.

Watched this exact series of events unfold, admittedly the majority of the stricken team took the l, but a sneaky hamster was awaiting out of range of the mine and tagged the mines owner about 3s after it had finally gone off........

Shhhh Don't want them knowing all it does is tell us where to shoot........

Above is solid advice. "Quick change" springs in airsoft often arent actually that quick to change, sure it's a handy thing that makes working on a gearbox easier but often not much more than that. I wouldnt let that put you off buying a gun you actually want. Same with rotary hops, nominally capable of finer adjustment than conventional hops but once you're at the level to leverage that advantage changing the unit will be a formality. Same again with barrels, the effect of nominal bore diameter on accuracy is very much secondary to overall manufacturing quality (consistency of bore along the length, straightness, interior finish etc) and pales in comparison to the requirement for the rest of the gun to be good enough to even notice the difference a "better" barrel can provide. Mosfets aren't the worst if you have basic soldering skills, even if you don't there are options to get around it, although learning to solder remains a useful skill in this hobby. Chasing accuracy is an entertaining pursuit, but no matter what you buy going in it'll be an expensive and difficult route filled with regret, pride and rage in equal measures.

The bit i found was when you have a bipod fitted and realise you've just been mono-podding on the magazine the whole game....... New one for the list: landmines The sequence of events is as follows: 1. Plant landmine in sneaky spot 2. Inform team of location of landmine, to prevent freindly fire 3. Play game trying to be in vicinty of landmine, to watch the results. 4. One of 2 things happens: A. Freindly trips landmine, takes hit once he remembers you warned him landmines were a thing B. Enemy trips landmine, looks around confused, sees mine, plays on anyway

Proof if there were needed they walk among us.... Ooh good pick. Having been on both sending and recieving ends of various gas shells they've always been underwhelming. Even the dreaded 40-mike when used as-intended (ie at some distance, not point-blank to the throat) is thoroughly underwhelming and suffers from airsoft innovations curse of working at best 50% of the time. Ofc the answer foll will put forward is tags, but from what i've seen of the impact detonating breed of tag (as in insta-boom) that's something that imo has limited place on a regular skirmish. While we're ranting about boomy things, we can add basically all non-pyro (in this case i count blanks as pyro) grenades, if a good one exists i've not met it.

[contraversial take] Anything noticably 3d printed, especially in an incongruous colour. "If all you have is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail" You've all seen the pews i'm referring to..... [/Contraversial take] More realistically, bipods, because very few airsoft pews are capable of actually benefiting from having them fitted and they are otherwise dead weight. Although i suppose for some aesthetics is worth the penalty.

Waterproofness will be no better or worse than an aeg with a fancy mosfet. For installation etc have a little read here, it's mostly focused on polaratar but has some details on the tuning: As a starter engine i'd lean towards reccommending the f2 over the fusion, less shenanigans to get dialed in and can be taken to a wider range of platforms in the future.

Whilst this is entirely true, and there's a lot you can do by being a careful custodian there are some points to consider; -there's the ever present risk of tripping etc, and theres never a guarantee you wont land on it in just the right way to break something. -even just the normal course of shooting you can get broken or worn out parts, for run of the mill stuff you just replace what breaks but if the gun has uncommon proprietary parts go they can be a pain to source. -babying a gun can detract from the gameplay experience, as you'll be too distracted to play the way you really want to if you're forever being careful not to scrape it against barricades or drop it in the dirt. -there remains the risk of it being pinched if left unattended, although that said i've only ever heard of guns going walkies anecdotally. If the gun has rarity value, with it being difficult to repair/replace parts if they break (internal or external) then it's maybe better to leave it at home, not like a cheaper more common gat is gonna be massively worse at the fundamental task of bb lobbing. End of the day a pew that you aren't afraid of picking up some battlescars is the one you want to be taking to the field, where you draw the line on the cost/rarity graph is something that's entirely personal.

I imagine that might not be that massively hard if you can deal with the entire body being 3d printed. Certainly the hpa gubbins wouldnt be too hard, imagine there's plenty of room for a 13ci tank in there. Always did wonder why no manufacturer took a crack at the g11, it's not as if its any harder to make or has less demand than the likes of the f2000.

Money spent on gats isnt really the barrier to having a decent times pewing imo. Some of my most enjoyable days have been running gats that are definately not what would conventionally be considered premium. Indeed i'd argue that the more premium the gat, the more good performance from said gat becomes "well of course it should be good". If it brings you joy running gucci gear then by all means go for it, but you can still have fun on the cheap. If money were no object methinks i wouldn't be spending money on gats, but instead on the site, both in terms of renting/buying an interesting venue and putting the money into trained and motivated staff to try and minimise the impact of those who's enjoyment stems from spoiling the enjoyment of others.

There's some debate on how accurate testing gas effeciency is when dry firing. As for working out how much gas your mag takes/is using, weigh it. You can for example with a fresh bottle of gas and an empty mag, weigh the bottle before and after filling the mag, then after firing that mag (with bb's) dry, you can work out a ballpark for how many shots you're gonna get per can, at least for the gun, ammo and ambient conditions you're testing in. Ofc grams of gas per shot expended isn't the only metric that affects running costs. One thing to consider for co2 is that outside of the normal flow of events (ie install bulb, shoot until bulb is expended, replace bulb) then your consumption is gonna be dramatically higher; End of the day and you wanna remove a half-discharged bulb? That gas is gone Maybe you didn't remove the bulb from last game day, how much gas is left? Is it near full or are you gonna run out in 3 shots? Better change it to be sure. Is there a leak? Well every time you try to fix it and don't succeed that's a bulb. Whereas green gas? Just leave em at the end of the day, top em up the following weekend, and if there's a leak you don't need to waste an entire mag full of gas to test.

Had a set of these that one of the bearings was mixed up, instead of having the flange on the topside (as viewed during installation) of the gear it was on the underside. The practical upshot of which was the equivalent of dropping a 1mm shim under the gear which massively restricted the ability to put the gear where it needed to be. In my case it meant i couldn't get the bevel in the right spot for a decent mesh but could just as easily cause tappet squishing.

think this is a good comparison. as with anything cosmetic done to pews it's gonna add value for those who share your tastes, and detract for those who don't. but if your target demographic is willing to pay the extra then it's not really dreaming to be charging it.

Play several games with the gun as-stock, do nothing but clean the barrel. Figure out your playstyle, are you getting up close and personal? plinking from distance? Have a good notion in mind of how the gun is performing, and what about its current performance needs improving. Then its time to start talking about how to go about improving the performance to make it better at doing what you need it to do.

memory is rather vague on this one, i think it ended up on my warhead build but honestly can't recall how i ended up fitting it, but i suspect a significant amount of bodging was involved.

brass can be susceptible to corrosion that a stainless barrel wouldn't, i've always leaned towards stainless for that reason although if you're keeping your barrel regularly cleaned it shouldn't make much difference. as for diameter, i wouldn't worry too much about it, overall barrel quality (ie the straightness, consistency of diameter and surface finish) of the barrel tend to be the more important factors. yes tighter diameters eg 6.01 can foul more quickly affecting accuracy, but this can be solved by regular cleaning. you're unlikely to be getting enough rounds through a mk23 to need mid-day cleaning if you're showing up with the bore spotless.

sort of yes and sort of no. whilst yes a bb will be using gas for its propulsion, if you consider the effeciency of nbb platforms versus blowbacks it's evident that the lions share of gas usage in the gbb is in actually cycling the thing, and tests with no bb fired do still demonstrate that the relevant sealing surfaces are doing a decent job of not sending half the reservoir into the atmosphere every shot. that said, an element that firing a bb will bring to the table is an increase in backpressure, one thing i found running heavier than your average ammo in pistols is that one side effect is the bulging (and i've heard albeit only anecdotally catastrophic bursting) of the nozzle due to the pressure, needless to say, this is gonna be putting more strain on the sealing surfaces which wouldn't be there in a dry fire test.

More expensive, does not always mean better performing