Adolf Hamster

I did try the etched shims and even with maximum ocd engaged it was a bugger to keep track of them. So i opted for just stacks of 0.1 shims, dont gotta keep track of sizes if you only got one size

And depressingly it seems easy access to verifiable information was not the cure

You drill a hole and pin one end, then push the other into the mag like it's the feed tube of the hop unit. It might take a bit of wiggling but it'll pop the bb's right out.

As above A short term fix is to intentionally load 10-20 rounds short of capacity and just run them that way. A stub of inner barrel is a handy tool to extract a set number of rounds from a mag.

Afaik isnt it a holdover from it being a p90 box? G&g with the version 6 box Theres a lug with a screw on the bottom of the gearbox about where the fill hatch of a hicap mag is. Fine if your using hicaps or g&g's special midcaps with a hole in them but a regular mid cap mag with a flat top wont seat properly. But easy to cutoff the tab and it'll take regular mags.

I mean if its true about the mag incompatibility (not a drum mag guy) then filing the catch isnt the worst thing in the world to do. I remember the first thing i ever did on the f2000 was take a hacksaw to the bottom of the gearbox to remove the pointless tab that prevented you using regular midcaps. Same category of mod as snipping the mini tamiya of every single gun in the collection and putting an actual connector on it.

Thats a thing people beleive? Wait, its airsoft i shouldnt be surprised.....

It doesnt affect how fast the motor is spinning, but the back pressure would resist the piston more, slowing it down. Same idea as a heavier piston, as your rof limit before you get pme is dictated by how long it takes the piston to be in the proper position to be picked up again. But as i said i'm not sure just how significant that effect would be, it may well be negligible

As a sterilised "one motor manufacturer, one spring manufacturer, one gun built by one good tech and tested with one brand/weight of bb's" chart it certainly has the expected form. Of course there will be complications: -A taller gear ratio will move the curve to the right, likewise a shorter gear ratio will move it to the left -Short stroking (with the appropriate increase in spring strength) will shrink the pme zone -a higher voltage battery will move the curve to the right, lower to the left -a heavier piston setup will expand the pme zone -any sub optimal build that adds friction will move the curve to the left Heavier ammo is a curious one, intuitively it should expand the pme zone although by how much isnt something i could comment on, it could well be insignificant. As for individual motors, well a strong neo motor in good order isn't going to be placed in the same spot as a knackered ferrite motor even if they have the same nominal tpa. All that said, its still a useful illustrative tool for where the ballpark is.

It is a game changer. One option is ammo, used to have endless midcap syndrome before switching to geoffs. Other option is a stub of ~60mminner barrel (or similar pipe type material), drill and pin one end. Becomes a handy method of extracting a fixed number of bb's post fill

i have it in my head seeing a thing for this. was a drop-in module that basically functioned to replicate a trigger unit's functionality whilst wiring through to an external microswitch. i am damned if i can remember what it was called, or who made it, but i swear its a thing. kind of like a mechanical ascu unit designed to integrate with a conventional mosfet. sorry, probably not very helpful.

Sadly if theres one type of person guaranteed not to be sensible and get themselves into insensible circumstances its human people. The worry is that we're one dumbass and a media outrage away from the no fun allowed hammer descending on our hobby.

Yeah thats the test i was alluding to in my initial post. There is a part of me kind of wants to see it tested, it would suck for whoever the book is landing on but at least it would set a clear precedent for the community to work to. Maybe if it is towards the more extreme end of things sites might finally start putting some goddamn effort into enforcing limits. Ofc i accept i'm perhaps in the minority in wishing we had a more concrete definition of what we can or can't be doing.

Theoretically for a bolty or semi auto gun then it being treated like an air rifle makes sense. But for an auto capable pew does that mean being just a hair over the limit is going to get you the same kind of shitstorm that having an actual automatic firearm would net you?

By legal limit i mean the limit before the police start raising eyebrows and calling it a firearm, which is something us uk based folk have to consider even if afaik it has yet to be tested in court. field limits ofc are a different kettle of fish as they're mostly dictated by how much owch the playerbase considers acceptable.

He's in america Where i presume the legal limit is whatever he can get the gun to shoot

Made a couple abominations in my time: Yes that's an m249 box mag on an mg42, no i will not elaborate further. And this monstrousity puts a new meaning to the term "bore offset", forget a cheek weld or even a chin weld you couldnt even get a beard weld. And whilst the gun might have been a superb shooter with bb's flying as straight and true as you can realistically get in this hobby, it doesnt help when the optic isnt zeroed, you cant really get in the eyebox due to its position but thats fine because even if you could its a gen 1 so you can't see shit anyway. However with a red dot in daylight as ugly as that gun is it was a great thing to actually use. Tried to get a picture of what i lovingly called the "scaffolding pole" due to its resemblance to, well, a scaffolding pole welded onto an m4 reciever, another one of those looks like shit shoots like a dream builds, alas i could not find one.

thinking a bit more about this. the jg's i've worked on are exclusively ak's, but one thing i did notice was that in stock form they do seem to naturally halt at what would otherwise be considered a good precocked position. one wonders if jg boxes align the col to intentionally cause this (basically mechanically timing the box for precocking bu disengaging the contacts later in the cycle), which means they'd be prime candidates for the niche case of a mosfet (without ab) allowing more current flow to cause a tad of overspin. that said, i ran such a jg on 11.1v with a non ab mosfet for years with zero issues, the only reason it got upgraded to add controlled precocking is i happened to have a gate warfet sitting looking for a home. one of those mysteries like how they seem to run so much smoother than the notionally "better" boxes you'd find in an lct or e&l.

There's also ensuring that the lips remain square and dont have blemishes etc that could cause an air leak. much like trimming a nozzle its often easier to just buy a different part. It's relatively common to see some variation in what for want of a better term i'm going to call skirt length on a hop rubber. Too long generally is an issue if you can't get the c clip to stay put, within reason shorter is ok. Some guns just dont like some buckings, typically i like pdi w-hold when a gun doesnt want to play ball with maple leaf, although certainly at 1j the w hold can struggle to lift north of ~.32's, you might be ok at dmr power though.

Assuming the col etc is functioning as intended, it is possible that a weaker motor might struggle to brake effectively. Yep, the exact breed of intermediate mosfet that i tend to advise people reconsider as active braking alone in a gun that doesnt need it can have a nasty habit of stopping the box too soon and causing lockups. That said, the op has evidently dodged that particular bullet. Definately the better move. For budget conciousness anything without active brake will do, i'm a fan of the nanoasr as it shares wiring with the warfet making for an easy upgrade path but that's mostly personal preference. For function concious you want at least an ab++/warfet with adjustable precocking In between those i dont see much point, either you cant turn off the ab which might make the gun unusable, or you can turn it off in which case you could save money and get the cheaper option.

Its one of g&g's old versions of blowback. It uses a pneumatic cylinder mounted on top of the gearbox, air from the main cylinder (the one pushing the bb out the barrel) bleeds off through a rubber seal into the blowback cylinder causing it to push the visual gubbins attatched to it to look like it's cycling and simulate "recoil". The issue is that it adds a whole bunch of places where air from the cylinder can escape, which is bad for a consistent muzzle velocity and by extension accuracy (which is as necessary as raw power for good effective range). The symptom will be a wide range of fps figures when firing a few shots through a chrono and vertical dispersion of shots in-game. The good news is its possible to de-activate it by removing the rubber seal and replacing the stock cylinder for one without a vent hole. Its probable a spring change may be necessary, i suspect the spring is a bit meatier than strictly necessary to maintain velocity whilst also powering the recoil system, last one i worked on had other issues so i can't be sure the spring was the proper power level.

That their pneumatic blowback shenanigans that's one mahoosive air leak waiting to happen?

Maybe a little on the tight side, hard to tell with a shorter burst but not too bad.

As 'borg says its a timed system. Pretty much it's a case of run until theres no trigger signal, then run x milliseconds longer before you stop. You'll need to dial it in, not sure on the exact programming steps for the perun but effectively you're just incrementing a timer until one of 3 things happens: 1. You're satisfied with the snappyness 2. The motor stalls (possible, although unlikely) 3. You get a double fire (ie the additional time is enough for it to fire a whole extra shot) For what its worth burst fire modes are functionally identical to just setting a precock timer long enough for fire multiple shots. This means it will run slightly longer after releasing the trigger in full auto, but its not noticable. What is noticable is that the first round of semi after a burst of auto wont have a consistent timing as the gearbox will be wherever it stopped after you last released the trigger as opposed to the defined point in the cycle from the cutoff lever. Cycle detection mosfets (ie the opticals that know where the sector gear is) can make sure they're always in the desired precock state but that comes at the cost of extra expense and faff. This, you dont want to be removing that little disk unless your motor has a solid closed end cap