Adolf Hamster

There's also ensuring that the lips remain square and dont have blemishes etc that could cause an air leak. much like trimming a nozzle its often easier to just buy a different part. It's relatively common to see some variation in what for want of a better term i'm going to call skirt length on a hop rubber. Too long generally is an issue if you can't get the c clip to stay put, within reason shorter is ok. Some guns just dont like some buckings, typically i like pdi w-hold when a gun doesnt want to play ball with maple leaf, although certainly at 1j the w hold can struggle to lift north of ~.32's, you might be ok at dmr power though.

Assuming the col etc is functioning as intended, it is possible that a weaker motor might struggle to brake effectively. Yep, the exact breed of intermediate mosfet that i tend to advise people reconsider as active braking alone in a gun that doesnt need it can have a nasty habit of stopping the box too soon and causing lockups. That said, the op has evidently dodged that particular bullet. Definately the better move. For budget conciousness anything without active brake will do, i'm a fan of the nanoasr as it shares wiring with the warfet making for an easy upgrade path but that's mostly personal preference. For function concious you want at least an ab++/warfet with adjustable precocking In between those i dont see much point, either you cant turn off the ab which might make the gun unusable, or you can turn it off in which case you could save money and get the cheaper option.

Its one of g&g's old versions of blowback. It uses a pneumatic cylinder mounted on top of the gearbox, air from the main cylinder (the one pushing the bb out the barrel) bleeds off through a rubber seal into the blowback cylinder causing it to push the visual gubbins attatched to it to look like it's cycling and simulate "recoil". The issue is that it adds a whole bunch of places where air from the cylinder can escape, which is bad for a consistent muzzle velocity and by extension accuracy (which is as necessary as raw power for good effective range). The symptom will be a wide range of fps figures when firing a few shots through a chrono and vertical dispersion of shots in-game. The good news is its possible to de-activate it by removing the rubber seal and replacing the stock cylinder for one without a vent hole. Its probable a spring change may be necessary, i suspect the spring is a bit meatier than strictly necessary to maintain velocity whilst also powering the recoil system, last one i worked on had other issues so i can't be sure the spring was the proper power level.

That their pneumatic blowback shenanigans that's one mahoosive air leak waiting to happen?

Maybe a little on the tight side, hard to tell with a shorter burst but not too bad.

As 'borg says its a timed system. Pretty much it's a case of run until theres no trigger signal, then run x milliseconds longer before you stop. You'll need to dial it in, not sure on the exact programming steps for the perun but effectively you're just incrementing a timer until one of 3 things happens: 1. You're satisfied with the snappyness 2. The motor stalls (possible, although unlikely) 3. You get a double fire (ie the additional time is enough for it to fire a whole extra shot) For what its worth burst fire modes are functionally identical to just setting a precock timer long enough for fire multiple shots. This means it will run slightly longer after releasing the trigger in full auto, but its not noticable. What is noticable is that the first round of semi after a burst of auto wont have a consistent timing as the gearbox will be wherever it stopped after you last released the trigger as opposed to the defined point in the cycle from the cutoff lever. Cycle detection mosfets (ie the opticals that know where the sector gear is) can make sure they're always in the desired precock state but that comes at the cost of extra expense and faff. This, you dont want to be removing that little disk unless your motor has a solid closed end cap

You dont have to rivet, you can get threaded side rails just drill a couple holes and bolt on, ofc if you want to rivet for authenticity that's fine. Alignment wise the one i did years ago went very much with the "eh, looks square to me guvnor" approach and i cant say i had any issues with getting airsoft grade scopes to zero. But maybe my eyecrometers are better calibrated than i thought.

Wonder is the larger bottle actually filled up all the way? Or have they been skimming off the top and the smaller bottle is just to hide it

I mean for the sake of science i'm curious how it pans out. However for practicality the issue in airsoft generally isnt a lack of horsepower, its getting the gearbox to survive it. Even on 11.1v you get a speediboi motor it'll eat a gearbox on standard gears let alone any high speed shenanigans. And realistically a 7.4 with brushless and precocking is gonna serve up all the practical response you'd realistically want, after that you gotta sell that soul to the hpa devil.

To add to this adding to this. When adding anything on the outside of the hop bucking when pushing the barrel into the hop unit it can create too much pressure on the bucking pulling it forward on the barrel. It will be hop unit dependant, some buckings eg maple leaf have intentional ridges to provide a bit more pressure, and some hop units are intentionally tight, even too much so (looking squarely at you madbull).

Tbh if he's happy with the external build quality then there's nothing wrong with spending a bit to jazz up the internals and frankly the g36 is an under represented platform, guess folk feel their use as a common rental gun must somehow mean they're bad or not worth a bit of spicing up. In terms of the actual spicing up there's 3 main avenues to consider: 1. Mosfet, something like a perun ab++/gate warfet or equivalent mosfet with precocking could do a lot of work with the percieved snappyness. On the v3 you can access the trigger contacts from the outside of the box to do the wiring but you'll need to be familiar with a soldering iron. 2. Motor, budget seems to preclude the brushless options, but a decent neo brushed motor paired with the above will also add to snap and/or auto rof If you dont go too crazy with the end rof figure then a plastic toothed piston isn't the end of the world, indeed there are those that would argue it's a good thing to have an intentional weak spot that lets a cheap part die to save more expensive parts. The stock shimming will likely be ok, improvable yes, likely to explode or cause serious issues no, so it could be skipped depending on your confidence level working on the box.

Same as when guns have "custom" paintjobs. It's not that, if they are done well or by a known name that has a reputation for quality work, that such things aren't of negligible value. It's that as you say, you've got 2 kinds of people who will be looking at the advert: -people who share your taste to whom the custom work may well be worth more money. -people who don't to whom the custom work is at best something that adds no value or at worst (especially the case with paint jobs) an annoyance that will take effort to revert/replace. Needless to say the second group is going to be significantly larger than the first.

Why'd they tell you off? Seems like a perfectly reasonable tactic that isnt particularly dickish given you're by definition going to be at range.

pretty much sums up what i'd have expected, better than just boresighting when creeping around with your gun at the correctly tacticool angle which in and of itself is useful in some situations. ofc even with a regular sight it's often useful to tilt the gun one way or another to compensate for wind or shoot around corners, the latter of which is particularly amusing when it pays off.

I found i could get it to just about lift 0.32's. the way the outer barrel assembly fits into the gun i'm not remotely surprised a slightly loose fit could make the dispersion go crazy, although i got lucky and had one that had decent performance for a regular pistol let alone a cocktail gun i bought as a joke. Op- this is one of those guns you might not want to run on stronger gases, nuprol green is ok but i found the base seal in the mag really wasnt happy with anything stronger.

Screeching noise sounds more like a mechanical issue than a stalled motor. I'm tempted to think the motor height adjustment is backing out gradually when firing until eventually it's enough to slip on the bevel.

If this is a recent enough purchase to be covered by consumer protection then i would first and foremost be asking for a refund/replacement. You've given them a chance to fix it, they failed, it's a them problem. This is the one reason people want to buy new is to benefit from the consumer protection/warranty so if you've got that to leverage i'd say use it. It is dissapointing, but what's more dissapponting is spending time, money and energy trying to fix a gun only for that not to be the fix. Bad enough when you have to fix a mistake you've made yourself (made that walk of shame a time or ten shit gets old fast) but even worse when it wasnt your fault. If you're dead set on keeping the gun and taking it somewhere else i'd suggest doing the following: Give them a clear breif on what the gun is currently doing/not doing Give them a clear breif on what you want it to do Let them give you a list of parts, and if they're coming up with that list before looking inside the gun then walk away.

So if i'm reading this right; you bought a gun It has an issue You gave it back to the retailer to fix the issue The retailer failed to fix the issue, delivering an unusable product And the solution is to spend a bunch of money you dont really want to have to spend, to fix an undisclosed fuckup by the retailer that may or may not be fixable with the parts you intend to buy? I feel like if we replaced the term "airsoft gun" with "washing machine" or for that matter basically any modern purchase i wouldnt need to explain the difference in tone the conversation would be taking. However to directly answer the question being asked, you've listed a lot of parts but without necessarily being sure you're replacing the right ones, this very much feels like what i like to call the "coat it in superglue and drag it through the prometheus catalogue" approach to airsoft tinkering. For example one thing not on your list that theoretically could be the cause of the synptoms you see is the cylinder, i have seen guns with holes drilled in the cylinder as an incredibly lazy and frankly negligent "fix" for reducing energy output. If the rest of the box in such a gun was in good order then it could be properly fixed for minimal cost. Now there are multiple things that could be causing your problem and i'm not suggesting that someone has actually drilled a hole in your cylinder, but it is an example of the sort of thing that could happen and makes throwing a bunch of expensive parts that might not necessarily play well together into a gearbox without someone properly diagnosing the real fault will merely result in an empty bank balance and a broken gun. An airsoft tech worth their salt is almost certainly going to need nowhere near all that to fix an air seal issue, and it does seem that a not insignificant secondary objective with your basket is to get a snappier feeling gun, and there's nothing wrong with that if the justification is "i want a snappier gun", indeed that's all you need but perhaps not when it's "my guns broken and i just want it fixed".

On paper yes, but nowhere near as impactful as you'll get from the gas powered stuff, enough to where it's drowned out by all the other shenanigans going on. You can get more significant creep by weighting the piston which the bolt actions can exhibit, but that's counterproductive to the aims of most aeg users when it comes to avoiding pme in auto fire. All other things being equal, more energy does mean more range. The reason tm's seem to buck this trend is because some guns are built more equal than others. It's worth noting that the whole "fps doesnt matter with a tm argument" always seems to fall flat on its face when the gun in question is a vsr. That said, the general point that raw fps alone making for more range is not the same as effective range, which is what you're going to percieve as i aimed, i fired, the hit landed, the target felt it.

It's to do with an aeg being a fixed energy system whereas a gbb/hpa is a fixed pressure system. If you make the bb stay in the barrel longer (wether it be a longer barrel or a heavier round being slower to accellerate) then the gas gun/hpa is just going to keep adding more pressurised air until the bb leaves. Whereas with an aeg it can't have more energy than was stored in the spring to begin with. That's a bit of an oversimplification as there's all sorts of gas expansion shenanigans going on and there's the whole thing with weighted pistons but its close enough for government work.

This is the case for gas and hpa guns, but not really so much in aeg's

Outside of the extremes, not really. Or at least it's generally hard enough to get a gun dialled in well enough to where the nominal barrel length is something to care about. So no need to stick a longer barrel in, if anything doing so will change the voluming requirements so unless the cylinder volume is changed to match the new length a longer barrel is as likely to make the gun shoot worse.

The colour from some brands like maple leaf is just an identifier as to the particular compound, so meaningful but not because of the colour if that makes sense. By angle i assume you mean rubbers being quoted in degrees, eg 50 degree 60 degree. That's not an angle, it's a measurement of the hardness of the rubber, if you think of hardness in aeg rubbers as being similar to car tyres it's not too far off. A softer (lower degree) rubber will be grippier and more effective at spinning a bb, especially heavier bb's, but can more easily deform which might cause sealing problems in higher energy builds with more chamber pressure. For aeg rubbers they're generally universal, or at least as universal as anything in this hobby is. You can find some buckings wont play well with some brands of barrel or hop unit etc. A good example is maple leaf buckings tend to have longer than usual feedlips, a good thing for better sealing but can in some guns protrude too far into the feed tube making it harder for the magazine to push rounds past. There's not much of a guaranteed rule for if a particular gun will get along with a particular bucking but in most cases it's not an issue. In terms of which one to buy well you ask 10 different people and you'll get 17 different answers. I typically reccommend the maple leaf macaron with omega nub to lift anything you can throw at it, or if the gun doesnt play ball then pdi w hold with standard nub if you're not lobbing over 0.32g. Before you try changing bucking, try some good quality heavier ammo first, how heavy is up to you how much money you're happy to send downrange per trigger pull but a lot of folk tend to settle on the 0.28-0.32g range for a balance between cost and performance. Changing hop rubber is mainly an excercise in allowing a given gun to lift heavier ammo to then get the range/accuracy benefits the heavy rounds provide, but tbh a lot of stock guns aren't too bad out of the box and can often be ok to lift up to the 0.32g range.

In principle any active braking will cause additional strain on the motor, it ends up a tradeoff between how long you expect your pew to last before needing new contacts and the in game performance. Ofc with brushless you dont have to worry about contacts so might as well max out. In real use i've only met one pew where contact degradation was a real thing and that was a secondhand purchase. Yes motor heat comes hand in hand with the motor load mentioned above. Imo if it's not so bad that you can't hold the grip then it's fine. The key is the battery, more load on the motor means more load on the battery but if it's well rated for the current you're drawing then crack on. Ultimately it boils down to your personal experience, but if the gearbox is in good order (ie shimming etc not putting undue load on the gb) then the choice of motor/battery/precocking is a see-saw of how much snappyness you want against how often you want to change brushes (where applicable) or charge batteries or hold off until the grip cools a tad.