Adolf Hamster

Usually that pin should be under load when the gearbox is in position. Both the rear bolt for the stock tube, and the screws in the grip will pull the gearbox back against the pin you have pictured and the rear body pin. It might be the grip isn't giving the proper tension?

the typical trigger pull bodge on a v2 box is to tap a hole in the gearbox casing behind the trigger and put a grub screw in. essentially lets you adjust the trigger as if it's being pre-pulled. however there are 2 downsides; -first is the safety, which you can either be patient and file down, or be impatient and remove. personally i don't see much problem given making an airsoft pew "safe" involves pulling the mag and clearing the chamber, and if you're in-game you're gonna be on fire anyway. -second is the trigger mech, the above method works really well when there's an internal mosfet or contact that means you can adjust the trigger to literal hair-width levels of pull, but with a mechanical trigger unit you're only gonna be able to go so far back before the trolley won't reset properly.

tbf, fire selectors have their place. once got asked at chrono if i could fire my gun in semi-auto. ordinarily this wouldn't be funny but the gun i was chrono'ing was an mg42.....

Not all heroes wear capes.....

when shooting on semi auto, the motor spools up, completes a cycle, the cutoff lever trips and the motor spools down. as the time when the motor stops is controlled by a mechanically timed cam from the sector gear, it usually stops in a consistent place every shot, depending on friction etc in the box. when firing in full auto, the cam is disengaged so the timing of when the motor stops running is dictated entirely by whenever you decide to release the trigger, which could be at any point in the cycle hence the nozzle stopping in seemingly random positions. for a gun in good health, this is just a normal part of how they work. depending on the state of the motor and gear train you can sometimes get instances where a gun might fire twice in semi auto (usually a fast motor that's not too strong at slowing down) as it's got enough momentum after the cutoff lever trips to freewheel round a whole second shot. likewise you can get the inverse of a motor that's not quite strong enough to do a standing start when the spring is compressed, which means if you get unlucky with the timing after a burst of auto, it'll stall when you try to fire the next shot. this can be controlled by some mosfets, the term "active brake" means a mosfet that uses electronic braking on the motor when it's disengaged, think of how a cordless drill can stop almost instantly from full speed. can be useful for curing double taps but more often than not it'll cause the opposite issue, stopping the motor so quickly the cutoff doesn't reset properly making the gun lock-up on semi. the term "precocking" applies to mosfets that intentionally run the motor a little longer than the normal cutoff time, by dialling this in you can have the gearbox stop with the spring very nearly about to release, with a motor strong enough to start in that state it means you can have a very quick response time (ie time between pulling the trigger and the gun going pew) without having to speed up the gun in auto (which can cause problems). if you take the same idea of a precocking timer and make it longer that's how you get burst fire. some mosfets can even do "cycle detection", which basically means they don't bother using a cutoff at all and instead use (usually optical) sensors to keep track of where the sector gear is and control it's position. they're expensive but it means you can control where the gun stops wether you're firing in semi, burst or auto meaning it always stops in the same place.

for a support gun there's not really much call for anything more than your basic contact-saving mosfet. motor wise as mentioned above brushless would be an option for more longevity, certainly make servicing a bit cleaner what with not spewing carbon everywhere. rof wise there's arguments that speed chasing on an lmg is counter productive, and will in any case be likely more limited by the magazine than the gearbox. as with any gun it'll benefit from a good consistent air seal, but given the higher ammo consumption of support guns lot of folks won't be running the heavies for cost reasons which would put a ceiling on how far it's worth chasing perfect accuracy.

might as well not be shipping then

they can be qc issues like the recievers being a little off-square. usually not an issue. they can be a bit of a bear to work on at the best of times but once you have the knack it's not too bad (tbh maybe it's just me but i tend to find ak's are easier to work on than m4's once you know the process). others can correct me on this, but afaik gunfire quit shipping to the uk thanks to brexit. cyma's will be cheap but effective parts, they're common choices of rental gun with a solid track record of reliability. the e&l's (the platinums at least) are a bit nicer especially for air seal but realistically they're both gonna be fine to pew with ootb and they're both gonna have headroom to tinker with should you feel so inclined. the way i'd put it is for general skirmishing the cyma is all the pew you'll need, with the e&l being the option for those who want to spend more for shiny things. you might consider if you're not fully locked into the ak platform that money saved on the cyma will be money for either upgrades or for expanding the collection with something else.

If you value first round hits?

Sorry to hear its been tough, and certainly when it comes to sales a little bit of patience on both sides goes a long way. But given the circumstances it sounds like you've got enough on your plate that dealing with the expectations of buyers is too much. Perhaps stepping back and just pulling any sales ads is the way forward. I've been out of the hobby for pretty much a year now and i still havent got around to flogging the last bits of kit because as you put it, life outside of airsoft is taking enough of my energy right now. Unless you really need to sell gear to balance the books then there's no harm in letting it sit a while.

Welcome to airsoft *ahem* "qc" It's the reason for the existence of aftermarket hop units although sadly a lot of those can be as bad or even worse than stock units.

It can be very subtle, takes just a fraction of a mm to do it but this sounds like textbook clanging on the way out. If its well aligned and not clipping it wont unduly affect accuracy.

ahh, burst fire, that does make a difference. more rof will help with snappy response, and times were it was the main way to do it, but nowadays with the electronical sorcery that is precocking mosfets and brushless motors you can get that snappy responsive trigger without needing to go full brrt with all the issues therein.

Am i the only one that can hear that poor piston screaming for mercy? You could also just find a better quality target that doesnt need that much dakka to persuade them to take a walk in the direction of their respawn

No, theres nothing wrong with wanting something different. If you like it then you like it and that's all the validation you need. The only thing you might struggle with is parts that are proprietary, it's the downside of straying from the path of generic m4 or ak. But thats only if you're the type to tinker and try to squeeze every last drop of performance from your pew.

Tbf, neither is anyone else in this thread.....

let this be a lesson kids. generally we understand 2-toning is a necessary evil to allow us to have our hobby still, and mostly we don't care if you turn up with a generic m4/1k painted in bright colours. but if you 2-tone something nice we absolutely can, and will, judge you for that.

about ~0.5mm protruding through isn't a problem for airseal moreso if you couldn't see it at all. more protrusion is better for air seal but at a certain point will make the mag's job a lot harder, if your gun's feeding on the mags you have then don't worry about it.

Very common that, the upside is at least you can twiddle it to adjust the rotation looking down the barrel by eye. It is common to get leaks if the hop is sitting forward, or the nozzle is too short/has damage on the tip. One thing to check is looking up the feed tube is if the feedlips are visible, usually you're looking for too much protrusion as a cause of feeding issues but if there's too little then the feed lips are too short (admittedly unlikely for a ml bucking) or the barrel is sitting forward which can happen depending on where the cuts for the c clip line up with the c clip and the hop. If you're on 7.4v then that doesnt sound likely, although on 11.1 you might be nearing that territory. Light pme tends to manifest as a drop in fps on auto but not semi so probably not the issue here.

Aye the ml buckings are super sensitive to being setup properly square, worth it though. I find the non-maple leaf nubs can be off-square although the proper ones are generally pretty good. Ofc that only helps when the hop unit/arm is capable of holding the nub and barrel square in the first place.

And good quality heavy ammo. After that it becomes rather involved with air seal work, which is a recipe that isn't so easily prescribed.

It's become routine? Thats what did it for me, the bits i enjoyed became just usual but the bits i hated got no less annoying

that's god's way of telling you to use heavier ammo. for the most part @Rogerborg is spot on, although it's worth noting his numbers might not be what you'd see. as it's a gas gun, the assumption of more weight=more hop pressure=more bb resistance=less muzzle energy is being counteracted by the wonderful phenomenon of joule creep. this means you might see your energy rise with heavier ammo, possibly enough to put you foul of the limits, so be sure to chrono in joules with the ammo you're intending to use and have the appropriate weight set on the chrono (or know the conversion/limit for your chosen weight/site limit) quoted for truth

That has gotta be a typo, i refuse to beleive anyone is that crazy.....

Lets face it, fn doesnt know what colour its supposed to be let alone any airsoft manufacturer.....