Adolf Hamster

As 'borg says its a timed system. Pretty much it's a case of run until theres no trigger signal, then run x milliseconds longer before you stop. You'll need to dial it in, not sure on the exact programming steps for the perun but effectively you're just incrementing a timer until one of 3 things happens: 1. You're satisfied with the snappyness 2. The motor stalls (possible, although unlikely) 3. You get a double fire (ie the additional time is enough for it to fire a whole extra shot) For what its worth burst fire modes are functionally identical to just setting a precock timer long enough for fire multiple shots. This means it will run slightly longer after releasing the trigger in full auto, but its not noticable. What is noticable is that the first round of semi after a burst of auto wont have a consistent timing as the gearbox will be wherever it stopped after you last released the trigger as opposed to the defined point in the cycle from the cutoff lever. Cycle detection mosfets (ie the opticals that know where the sector gear is) can make sure they're always in the desired precock state but that comes at the cost of extra expense and faff. This, you dont want to be removing that little disk unless your motor has a solid closed end cap

You dont have to rivet, you can get threaded side rails just drill a couple holes and bolt on, ofc if you want to rivet for authenticity that's fine. Alignment wise the one i did years ago went very much with the "eh, looks square to me guvnor" approach and i cant say i had any issues with getting airsoft grade scopes to zero. But maybe my eyecrometers are better calibrated than i thought.

Wonder is the larger bottle actually filled up all the way? Or have they been skimming off the top and the smaller bottle is just to hide it

I mean for the sake of science i'm curious how it pans out. However for practicality the issue in airsoft generally isnt a lack of horsepower, its getting the gearbox to survive it. Even on 11.1v you get a speediboi motor it'll eat a gearbox on standard gears let alone any high speed shenanigans. And realistically a 7.4 with brushless and precocking is gonna serve up all the practical response you'd realistically want, after that you gotta sell that soul to the hpa devil.

To add to this adding to this. When adding anything on the outside of the hop bucking when pushing the barrel into the hop unit it can create too much pressure on the bucking pulling it forward on the barrel. It will be hop unit dependant, some buckings eg maple leaf have intentional ridges to provide a bit more pressure, and some hop units are intentionally tight, even too much so (looking squarely at you madbull).

Tbh if he's happy with the external build quality then there's nothing wrong with spending a bit to jazz up the internals and frankly the g36 is an under represented platform, guess folk feel their use as a common rental gun must somehow mean they're bad or not worth a bit of spicing up. In terms of the actual spicing up there's 3 main avenues to consider: 1. Mosfet, something like a perun ab++/gate warfet or equivalent mosfet with precocking could do a lot of work with the percieved snappyness. On the v3 you can access the trigger contacts from the outside of the box to do the wiring but you'll need to be familiar with a soldering iron. 2. Motor, budget seems to preclude the brushless options, but a decent neo brushed motor paired with the above will also add to snap and/or auto rof If you dont go too crazy with the end rof figure then a plastic toothed piston isn't the end of the world, indeed there are those that would argue it's a good thing to have an intentional weak spot that lets a cheap part die to save more expensive parts. The stock shimming will likely be ok, improvable yes, likely to explode or cause serious issues no, so it could be skipped depending on your confidence level working on the box.

Same as when guns have "custom" paintjobs. It's not that, if they are done well or by a known name that has a reputation for quality work, that such things aren't of negligible value. It's that as you say, you've got 2 kinds of people who will be looking at the advert: -people who share your taste to whom the custom work may well be worth more money. -people who don't to whom the custom work is at best something that adds no value or at worst (especially the case with paint jobs) an annoyance that will take effort to revert/replace. Needless to say the second group is going to be significantly larger than the first.

Why'd they tell you off? Seems like a perfectly reasonable tactic that isnt particularly dickish given you're by definition going to be at range.

pretty much sums up what i'd have expected, better than just boresighting when creeping around with your gun at the correctly tacticool angle which in and of itself is useful in some situations. ofc even with a regular sight it's often useful to tilt the gun one way or another to compensate for wind or shoot around corners, the latter of which is particularly amusing when it pays off.

I found i could get it to just about lift 0.32's. the way the outer barrel assembly fits into the gun i'm not remotely surprised a slightly loose fit could make the dispersion go crazy, although i got lucky and had one that had decent performance for a regular pistol let alone a cocktail gun i bought as a joke. Op- this is one of those guns you might not want to run on stronger gases, nuprol green is ok but i found the base seal in the mag really wasnt happy with anything stronger.

Screeching noise sounds more like a mechanical issue than a stalled motor. I'm tempted to think the motor height adjustment is backing out gradually when firing until eventually it's enough to slip on the bevel.

If this is a recent enough purchase to be covered by consumer protection then i would first and foremost be asking for a refund/replacement. You've given them a chance to fix it, they failed, it's a them problem. This is the one reason people want to buy new is to benefit from the consumer protection/warranty so if you've got that to leverage i'd say use it. It is dissapointing, but what's more dissapponting is spending time, money and energy trying to fix a gun only for that not to be the fix. Bad enough when you have to fix a mistake you've made yourself (made that walk of shame a time or ten shit gets old fast) but even worse when it wasnt your fault. If you're dead set on keeping the gun and taking it somewhere else i'd suggest doing the following: Give them a clear breif on what the gun is currently doing/not doing Give them a clear breif on what you want it to do Let them give you a list of parts, and if they're coming up with that list before looking inside the gun then walk away.

So if i'm reading this right; you bought a gun It has an issue You gave it back to the retailer to fix the issue The retailer failed to fix the issue, delivering an unusable product And the solution is to spend a bunch of money you dont really want to have to spend, to fix an undisclosed fuckup by the retailer that may or may not be fixable with the parts you intend to buy? I feel like if we replaced the term "airsoft gun" with "washing machine" or for that matter basically any modern purchase i wouldnt need to explain the difference in tone the conversation would be taking. However to directly answer the question being asked, you've listed a lot of parts but without necessarily being sure you're replacing the right ones, this very much feels like what i like to call the "coat it in superglue and drag it through the prometheus catalogue" approach to airsoft tinkering. For example one thing not on your list that theoretically could be the cause of the synptoms you see is the cylinder, i have seen guns with holes drilled in the cylinder as an incredibly lazy and frankly negligent "fix" for reducing energy output. If the rest of the box in such a gun was in good order then it could be properly fixed for minimal cost. Now there are multiple things that could be causing your problem and i'm not suggesting that someone has actually drilled a hole in your cylinder, but it is an example of the sort of thing that could happen and makes throwing a bunch of expensive parts that might not necessarily play well together into a gearbox without someone properly diagnosing the real fault will merely result in an empty bank balance and a broken gun. An airsoft tech worth their salt is almost certainly going to need nowhere near all that to fix an air seal issue, and it does seem that a not insignificant secondary objective with your basket is to get a snappier feeling gun, and there's nothing wrong with that if the justification is "i want a snappier gun", indeed that's all you need but perhaps not when it's "my guns broken and i just want it fixed".

On paper yes, but nowhere near as impactful as you'll get from the gas powered stuff, enough to where it's drowned out by all the other shenanigans going on. You can get more significant creep by weighting the piston which the bolt actions can exhibit, but that's counterproductive to the aims of most aeg users when it comes to avoiding pme in auto fire. All other things being equal, more energy does mean more range. The reason tm's seem to buck this trend is because some guns are built more equal than others. It's worth noting that the whole "fps doesnt matter with a tm argument" always seems to fall flat on its face when the gun in question is a vsr. That said, the general point that raw fps alone making for more range is not the same as effective range, which is what you're going to percieve as i aimed, i fired, the hit landed, the target felt it.

It's to do with an aeg being a fixed energy system whereas a gbb/hpa is a fixed pressure system. If you make the bb stay in the barrel longer (wether it be a longer barrel or a heavier round being slower to accellerate) then the gas gun/hpa is just going to keep adding more pressurised air until the bb leaves. Whereas with an aeg it can't have more energy than was stored in the spring to begin with. That's a bit of an oversimplification as there's all sorts of gas expansion shenanigans going on and there's the whole thing with weighted pistons but its close enough for government work.

This is the case for gas and hpa guns, but not really so much in aeg's

Outside of the extremes, not really. Or at least it's generally hard enough to get a gun dialled in well enough to where the nominal barrel length is something to care about. So no need to stick a longer barrel in, if anything doing so will change the voluming requirements so unless the cylinder volume is changed to match the new length a longer barrel is as likely to make the gun shoot worse.

The colour from some brands like maple leaf is just an identifier as to the particular compound, so meaningful but not because of the colour if that makes sense. By angle i assume you mean rubbers being quoted in degrees, eg 50 degree 60 degree. That's not an angle, it's a measurement of the hardness of the rubber, if you think of hardness in aeg rubbers as being similar to car tyres it's not too far off. A softer (lower degree) rubber will be grippier and more effective at spinning a bb, especially heavier bb's, but can more easily deform which might cause sealing problems in higher energy builds with more chamber pressure. For aeg rubbers they're generally universal, or at least as universal as anything in this hobby is. You can find some buckings wont play well with some brands of barrel or hop unit etc. A good example is maple leaf buckings tend to have longer than usual feedlips, a good thing for better sealing but can in some guns protrude too far into the feed tube making it harder for the magazine to push rounds past. There's not much of a guaranteed rule for if a particular gun will get along with a particular bucking but in most cases it's not an issue. In terms of which one to buy well you ask 10 different people and you'll get 17 different answers. I typically reccommend the maple leaf macaron with omega nub to lift anything you can throw at it, or if the gun doesnt play ball then pdi w hold with standard nub if you're not lobbing over 0.32g. Before you try changing bucking, try some good quality heavier ammo first, how heavy is up to you how much money you're happy to send downrange per trigger pull but a lot of folk tend to settle on the 0.28-0.32g range for a balance between cost and performance. Changing hop rubber is mainly an excercise in allowing a given gun to lift heavier ammo to then get the range/accuracy benefits the heavy rounds provide, but tbh a lot of stock guns aren't too bad out of the box and can often be ok to lift up to the 0.32g range.

In principle any active braking will cause additional strain on the motor, it ends up a tradeoff between how long you expect your pew to last before needing new contacts and the in game performance. Ofc with brushless you dont have to worry about contacts so might as well max out. In real use i've only met one pew where contact degradation was a real thing and that was a secondhand purchase. Yes motor heat comes hand in hand with the motor load mentioned above. Imo if it's not so bad that you can't hold the grip then it's fine. The key is the battery, more load on the motor means more load on the battery but if it's well rated for the current you're drawing then crack on. Ultimately it boils down to your personal experience, but if the gearbox is in good order (ie shimming etc not putting undue load on the gb) then the choice of motor/battery/precocking is a see-saw of how much snappyness you want against how often you want to change brushes (where applicable) or charge batteries or hold off until the grip cools a tad.

ftfy not sure on the actual weight, but the asg evo's are mean little gats in stock form, definitely worthy of consideration.

to be somewhat generic as i don't know the exact programming sequence of the jefftron: if you're going to use precocking, then set active brake to on, otherwise off will hopefully prevent cycling issues from the gb stopping too quickly, precocking off+no ab=standard aeg cycling to set precocking, a quick and somewhat easy way is to pull the upper reciever (or whatever you need to do to be able to see the back end of the gearbox whilst running) and do the following: 1. set precocking level to the minimum value 2. increment the precocking value by [appropriate feeling figure] 3. repeat step 2 until: -you feel the response on semi is adequate for your needs -the piston seems to reliably stop very near the end of travel -you get a double fire, in which case decrement until it doesn't 4. profit in terms of why to expend the effort, precocking is basically free "trigger response" ie it will make the gun "feel" snappy and responsive without it needing to have the brrrrrrt levels that typically come with a high rps build, for example an 18rps build (ie moderate in auto) with a brushless motor and copious precocking can feel in semi auto as snappy as you could realistically want a pew to be, but without the stripped pistons and other associated headaches a traditional high rof build entails. in terms of downsides, precocking means that especially if you play in semi your spring will always be left in a "cocked" state, some mosfets (idk if the jefftron is one of them) can alleviate this by holding the trigger to de-cock the gun, meaning that the spring shouldnt lose power during storage. in-game however there's no real downside to precocking as long as your motor is man enough to cold-start when there's tension on the spring (if it isn't, that's gods way of telling you to get a better motor because even without precocking it could stall after a burst of auto).

sounds like a polymer bodied m4 would be the logical choice, i'm tempted to say arp9 would suit quite well. although i must admit outside of the weight requirement or an absolute desire for dat blued steel an e&l provides the cm045 is a damn fine choice of gat.

About the only good thing i can say about the condition is at least he's declared it. This seems like a perfect example of why secondhand prices in this hobby tend to be so low, you can have a gun that doesnt look that bad in photos, it may well shoot, but that doesnt mean it can't still have a myriad of horrors lurking under the hood.

Kinda always been a fan of the maple leaf macaron, with a proper omega nub (the off brand ones i've seen tend to not be so square) or other appropriately radial block (eg the r block in a maxx unit) For gbb's again maple leaf autobot/decepticon with maybe an i-key and the odd bit of creative arm shimming can work wonders. As a secondary for the guns that dislike maple leaf feedlips i've had good results with the pdi w-hold buckings, although find they're not keen on heavier than 0.32g at least in the 1j energy category. G&g green are good as stock style buckings go, i'd put them in the same shelf spot as the prommy purple for guns that aren't expecting to be fed the heavies. Ofc as with all things airsoft ymmv, throwing the bestest bucking, barrel and nub in the universe is gonna be useless if the gun's idea of energy consistency isnt.