Adolf Hamster

Tbh at this point i'm not sure how the argument started, what its about or how its continuing, it seems to be mostly arguing about how people are being argumentative in their arguments from argumenters who argue they arent argumentative as an an argument to the argumenter they're arguing against.

For the benefit of the curious we have established via pm that the problem in this case is my atrocious memory.....

See i'm not the only one who got this. Although i dont rightly remember ever signing up to ukapu so one is wondering where they got their hands on my email?

Whilst i appreciate the dedication, and thoroughly endorse this idea as being fucking awesome, i might be inclined to suggest that if you don't have the confidence to work on a mechbox, this might not bode so well for the mountain of fabrication work that will be involved in such a project. However, i say that in the hope that i will be proved wrong

Cordless, although corded woulda been fine for what we were doing

was using a dewalt sds a few months back and i couldnt help but feel the resemblance to a vector If we're talking guns we need more of we need some more old school stuff, nice m1 carbine (as an aeg that is) or sks.

I love the look of it, but wasnt much of a fan shooting something that had less trigger feel than a dewalt.....

The f2000 is already a thing, g&g, cyma and jg do them?

for me it was covid. it didn't make me want to stop playing, far from it i couldn't wait to get back on the field. and then everything opened up again and i got back on the field, looking forward to having some fun again. except it was ruined, by the same old shit that's bugged me about this hobby since day 1. wasn't the first time i'd felt like this, but thanks to the enforced break it made me realise the value of it even more. that is to say that this hobby lacks consistency, that all it takes is one group of bad apples to rock up and even sites that are generally good can fail to provide an experience that lifts the spirits. the hobby you do to have a good time becomes a source of annoyance, and if you ain't having fun then why do it? so decided to pack it in for now, not saying i won't be back but tbh i suspect without some major changes to how sites/the community organises itself i can't see the situation improving to a point where i'll not end up feeling the same again.

Damn, there seems to be no wide options in my size i mean i dont need em, both pairs of lowas i have are perfectly servicable and mans has recently jumped on the heritage boot bandwagon so i really dont need them. if i repeat that enough i'll be ok...... probably..... Their hiking sock is warm but very comfortable, although tbh the longevity doesnt quite match up to the boots.

i'm a tad old school, i prefer to use an earcrometer for measuring how laboured a gun is

Always did wonder why people cared about charging rates, sure other hobbies like rc you have a good reason to care about charging fast but in airsoft just buy enough batteries to last a days pewing and be organised enough to charge the night before. Plus i'd wager the lions share of sites wont have plugs for general use and even those that do will have stiff competition. Op- in addition to a good charger, a tool that i've found invaluable for lipo usage is a cell checker, can be used to troubleshoot if you've got a balance issue, a dead cell, or simply a quick test to see if its charged.

Ahh yes, the french style, can't go wrong with a classic.

Ooh, a duel, what we going for? Slapsies? Handbags at 20 paces?

Whilst i can certainly vouch for lowa's comfort and durability, and certainly feel like i've got my moneys worth out of the past ~7 years, i'm not sure they're the right choice in this case. You've already got a set for going through the mucky stuff and i'll be honest the renegades don't grip so well on hard surfaces. Walking onto something like polished concrete with them wet is like walking on ice and even dry they're not that grippy.

Huh, can't say i've seen that one before. The only purpose i can possibly see it serving outside of maybe some optimisation of mould tooling during manufacture is for it to be a recess to let the top bb sit neatly in position until pushed by the nozzle. Although i can't say i've ever seen the feed lips on the bucking fail to perform this duty. If that it its purpose it's clearly failing.....

No definately the kid, you can see the hit markers and everything......

You mean the first 20 shots hit but the kid didnt call it.......

If you have the sector rotated to keep the delayer unengaged from the tappet then as you close the halves a little push back on the nozzle usually takes the pressure off and lets it pop into place. Usually the final stage of closing up a box is poking/prodding various gear shafts, the trigger and the nozzle to see which one of them is causing the binding.

I find lamb tends to be recieved more favourably than goat, although ymmv depending on the particular spirit you're trying to appease.

So i did manage to hpa one of those things. Engine i used was a polarstar jack, took an sr25 nozzle and machined it down to the right length (sorry cant remember the number) Wiring wise polarstar does a plug board that lets you solder into existing trigger connections, fortunately you've only got one fire mode to worry about. Fortunately there's tons of room inside the gearbox casing/rear of the reciever for the controller, battery and associated wiring gubbins and you can just run the wire out the hole for the mainspring. End result wasnt great accuracy wise although to be fair i have abnormally high standards in that department and for a support gun a little spread isnt the end of the world. If you care about accuracy there's no reason you couldn't do basically the same treatment but using a polarstar f2, which if you do a good job machining the nozzle to the right length and a good seal should be tunable to get some real good accuracy. For me i found the 42 whilst quite the head turner in the safe zone was pretty useless on the field, entirely down to how unweildy the platform is whilst offering no more firepower than you could have gotten from an arp9 at a third the length and quarter the weight. I'd also caution be very very careful not to be too rough with it or drop it, the reciever is not nearly as strong as it needs to be and will bend very easily. You can modify it with steel bars bolted on the inside which helps a ton, but also sadly weighs a ton.....

Not sure its possible to get enough backspin to be firing medicine balls at uk power limits.......

A very vague and not always accurate "test" for motors is to turn it by hand and feel how notchy it is to turn, which gives an indication on the strength of the magnets. Stronger magnets typically associates with more better (a lot of aftermarket motors like shs, asg, warhead etc will feel stronger) but that doesnt necessarily mean that a motor with weak feel can't be decent in-practice. That won't tell you anything about its notional speed rating, although presumably you already have an idea what sort of speed its putting out with your usual battery. If the motor polarity is reversed and the motor drives backwards the anti reversal latch will stop it, although symptomatically if that's whats happening you can usually hear/feel the motor "clicking" as it tries to start before getting blocked (unless the motor engagement is way too tight) The clicking will also occurr if for example the piston is jammed mid-cycle and locking the gearbox. If theres no reaction from pulling the trigger then it's going to be a break in connection, which could be anywhere in the wiring loom, although motor contacts being loose/broken and trigger contacts carboning up are both very common areas to go. Contacts can carbon up, hitting it with sandpaper will solve that, although make sure that they arent/dont get bent to the point they won't connect when the trolley is forward. You can test the electrics with the motor connected outside the gun, but make sure it's well secured to something because inertia is a thing.

As above, grip and maybe bolt release need to go. Tip for reassembly (and dissassembly) is it's better to install the pins first then grip then stock bolt, as the latter will pull the gearbox tight against the pins making it difficult or even impossible to push them in (certainly without damaging it). The reverse is true for dissassembly take the bolts out first then the pins should be relatively loose to pull. Like leo i tend to pull gearboxes out set to safe, but tbh whatever setting lets the gearbox come free/slide in is the one you want to use.

Eh, hamster's financial insensibility has been a life long ailment..... I did complete the original robot but iirc it broke pretty soon after that.