Adolf Hamster

This, right here, is why the internet is awesome

If the clip fits don't worry about it. You might want to check the rubber isn't getting stretched when pushing the barrel into the hop unit. Made the mistake of buying a madbull hop unit which was so damn tight it would pull the hop unit over the end of the barrel when fitting.

It is true, money can't buy you happyness, but it can buy you bacon and that's pretty damn close.....

whilst they can sort of work with standard nubs, anything without the radial shape of the omega is gonna distort the bucking, reducing the effectiveness of the contact patch. how bad is the over-hop? if it's minor then jumping up the ammo weight might be worth considering.

it does amaze me how folk are happy to take the ridiculous depreciation hit that selling airsoft equipment secondhand provides, but then cheap out at the last minute for the sake of a few £.

think there was a topic recently about this, vague memories of the judgement being that the forum code didn't support ads expiring or somesuch. changing "completed" to "sold" would probably fix the issue of new joins contacting members about long sold items although it might be confusing when the ad is set to "sold" because the seller has withdrawn it only for them to re-list it later. i know i've done that if life stuff means i won't be engaging with the forum for a while and i just want to temporarily "pull" the ad.

replies to post about some new escape room with airsoft adjacent 2 posts later;

In that case it does really sound like the nub has ended up in an odd position/orientation, but you've already checked for that.....

you spelled "objectively superior" and "easy to use" wrong

the omega nub isn't designed to be used with anything but the maple leaf rubbers, so i wouldn't be surprised seeing those symptoms with a standard style bucking. that said, it shouldn't really be doing that with the maple leaf bucking. these are a rotary style hop aren't they, is it possible the tail end isn't engaging in the wheel in it's correct slot? also worth looking down the barrel whilst moving the hop through it's range of motion, see if it's actually moving as it should.

I mean 0.25 out of 2 aint bad?

oh dear, it's definately migrated it's way to outer mongolia by now.......

you tried measuring fps consistency with a chrono? especially if it's more vertical dispersion than horizontal could be a leak growing elsewhere in the system. you might be one step ahead here but cleaning a barrel in-situ with your typical cleaning rod can end up just pushing crap down the barrel into the hop chamber, good to give em a clean outside the gun when the opportunity presents itself. whilst 'borg doth jest bb manufacturers have been known to pull shenanigans turning ol'reliable into absolute garbage in the space of a single batch code.

depending on where it is tappet plate would be the most likely culprit just act casual and hope nobody noticed, that's what i always do

that's the joys of the m4 platform for you...... honestly motor wires are like usb sticks or unlabelled push/pull doors, despite there being only 2 ways to do it they unfailingly require 3 attempts to get right is it not just the sector still sitting in the "firing" point of it's cycle? or are you turning the gears over and it's not moving the piston?

that type of mag catch looks to be the type that the bar is threaded into the button, so you gotta push the button all the way in then unscrew the other side. they're a bit of a pain as often the bolt catch paddle needs to be removed to give clearance. as for the spring, sounds like initially it got kinked and dropped downwards, not really a big deal unless it gets stuck or bent permanently, just pull it out and reinstall. for the piston in the rear position, the lazy way to solve that without cracking the gearbox is to use a flat ended tool (a punch or a flat ground hex driver, basically anything that won't scratch the piston head more than you're happy with) up through the nozzle to push the piston all the way back then it'll usually be able slide forward again. you don't have to pull the motor, but doing so will reduce the force required to push the piston back. at the risk of creating a "do'h" moment the clicking after reinstalling the motor, sounds very much like the polarity of the motor is reversed, so it's running backwards into the arl before the mosfet kicks in and starts complaining.

gonna need some more to go on, was anything done to the gun first? or has it just drifted out with use?

no apology necessary, there's no mic on the akg's they're purely audio headphones. i get around this on pc with an external mike, afaik there are add-on mic's available but might not be so compatible with console.

budget unspecified? i'm currently using a set of akg702's, they're open backed so my biggest problem is determining if the background noise is from whatever game i'm playing or the neighbors having a domestic. comfort wise they're great, no trouble wearing them for hours on end, and with my current sound setup (pc soundcard+headphone amp) the audio quality is excellent, as above i have trouble distinguishing between certain media sounds and actual real-world ambeince.

worst- agm mg42, in it's stock form the gearbox design meant it'd average about 1.074 shredded pistons per bb fired, the reciever was weak and incredibly easy to bend and the magazine mechanism was laughable literally relying on it's weak motor stalling out to prevent overfeeding. even after fixing all of these issues using in order; hpa, steel bars and an entirely different magazine all you ended up with was a pew that was far too unweildy to have any effectiveness firing from the shoulder and frankly i've never found airsoft to be very conducive to emplaced fire. it's one redeeming feature was scoring "cool points" in the safe zone. in contention- cybergun (i wanna say kwc oem?) 1911, because even if you could get it to hold co2 long enough to actually fire you couldn't hit the broad side of a barn from inside said barn. was pretty though best was my jg aksu, because whilst i've had pews that were better in just about every way, that came as a result of significant expenditure of both money and effort, and when you've emptied your wallet labouring over getting a pew to shoot really well then it shooting nicely becomes a case of "well of course it does", whereas the jg always got given second place, it was assembled entirely out of secondhand parts that i either got cheap or were leftovers from other builds. it shouldn't have been good, and yet it would consistently and reliably punch well above it's weight, not sure i can ever recall fielding it and being dissappointed. in contention, the "king arms" m4, not because the gun as i got it was actually any good, quite the opposite, and not because the hideous Frankenstein it became was even really a king arms, but because it represented a journey for me. it was the gun into which i ended up becoming obsessed, chasing the fever dream that is an accurate airsoft pew, trying to acheive peak bb lobbing performance, the full circle from making all the dumb mistakes we all make in the beginning right through to the epiphany that achieving perfection was pointless in a world where the target will just shrug and play on.

as a general rule for accuracy overall barrel quality is more important than the nominal diameter. the limiting factor (at least mechanically) far more likely to have issues from other effects, like gas sealing, cooldown, loose barrel mounting (as in the whole hop unit/barrel subassembly not being held solid to the frame) etc.

Certainly true for the agm version, it's a question of when, not if, the split box messes up the aoe enough to eat a piston. The magazine mechanism is also incredibly weak, relying on the motor stalling out to prevent overfeeding. And the reciever as described by the fella i sold mine to is "pasta" although it is possible to fit reinforcing bars inside. Can't comment on the g&g version but it's out of budget anyways.

Not unless they've updated something? I know the build i had was running a titan with precocking and ab dialed up to "reasonable" (read: excessive) levels and it didnt have any issues. All precocking is for the likes of the warfet/ab++ is just a timer that shuts the motor off a little later than the cutoff lever trips, which you can adjust the timing to get your desired amount of precocking.

if you're aiming for a snappy build then you'll want a mosfet with precocking, something like a warfet or ab++ will be fine if you're not switching between semi and auto often. the warhead is definately the motor you'd want for this, i'd go with a standard speed and as mentioned above if that's not enough for you then upping the gearing and/or battery voltage remains an open possibility.

Dodged that particular bullet so far