Adolf Hamster

that type of mag catch looks to be the type that the bar is threaded into the button, so you gotta push the button all the way in then unscrew the other side. they're a bit of a pain as often the bolt catch paddle needs to be removed to give clearance. as for the spring, sounds like initially it got kinked and dropped downwards, not really a big deal unless it gets stuck or bent permanently, just pull it out and reinstall. for the piston in the rear position, the lazy way to solve that without cracking the gearbox is to use a flat ended tool (a punch or a flat ground hex driver, basically anything that won't scratch the piston head more than you're happy with) up through the nozzle to push the piston all the way back then it'll usually be able slide forward again. you don't have to pull the motor, but doing so will reduce the force required to push the piston back. at the risk of creating a "do'h" moment the clicking after reinstalling the motor, sounds very much like the polarity of the motor is reversed, so it's running backwards into the arl before the mosfet kicks in and starts complaining.

gonna need some more to go on, was anything done to the gun first? or has it just drifted out with use?

no apology necessary, there's no mic on the akg's they're purely audio headphones. i get around this on pc with an external mike, afaik there are add-on mic's available but might not be so compatible with console.

budget unspecified? i'm currently using a set of akg702's, they're open backed so my biggest problem is determining if the background noise is from whatever game i'm playing or the neighbors having a domestic. comfort wise they're great, no trouble wearing them for hours on end, and with my current sound setup (pc soundcard+headphone amp) the audio quality is excellent, as above i have trouble distinguishing between certain media sounds and actual real-world ambeince.

worst- agm mg42, in it's stock form the gearbox design meant it'd average about 1.074 shredded pistons per bb fired, the reciever was weak and incredibly easy to bend and the magazine mechanism was laughable literally relying on it's weak motor stalling out to prevent overfeeding. even after fixing all of these issues using in order; hpa, steel bars and an entirely different magazine all you ended up with was a pew that was far too unweildy to have any effectiveness firing from the shoulder and frankly i've never found airsoft to be very conducive to emplaced fire. it's one redeeming feature was scoring "cool points" in the safe zone. in contention- cybergun (i wanna say kwc oem?) 1911, because even if you could get it to hold co2 long enough to actually fire you couldn't hit the broad side of a barn from inside said barn. was pretty though best was my jg aksu, because whilst i've had pews that were better in just about every way, that came as a result of significant expenditure of both money and effort, and when you've emptied your wallet labouring over getting a pew to shoot really well then it shooting nicely becomes a case of "well of course it does", whereas the jg always got given second place, it was assembled entirely out of secondhand parts that i either got cheap or were leftovers from other builds. it shouldn't have been good, and yet it would consistently and reliably punch well above it's weight, not sure i can ever recall fielding it and being dissappointed. in contention, the "king arms" m4, not because the gun as i got it was actually any good, quite the opposite, and not because the hideous Frankenstein it became was even really a king arms, but because it represented a journey for me. it was the gun into which i ended up becoming obsessed, chasing the fever dream that is an accurate airsoft pew, trying to acheive peak bb lobbing performance, the full circle from making all the dumb mistakes we all make in the beginning right through to the epiphany that achieving perfection was pointless in a world where the target will just shrug and play on.

as a general rule for accuracy overall barrel quality is more important than the nominal diameter. the limiting factor (at least mechanically) far more likely to have issues from other effects, like gas sealing, cooldown, loose barrel mounting (as in the whole hop unit/barrel subassembly not being held solid to the frame) etc.

Certainly true for the agm version, it's a question of when, not if, the split box messes up the aoe enough to eat a piston. The magazine mechanism is also incredibly weak, relying on the motor stalling out to prevent overfeeding. And the reciever as described by the fella i sold mine to is "pasta" although it is possible to fit reinforcing bars inside. Can't comment on the g&g version but it's out of budget anyways.

Not unless they've updated something? I know the build i had was running a titan with precocking and ab dialed up to "reasonable" (read: excessive) levels and it didnt have any issues. All precocking is for the likes of the warfet/ab++ is just a timer that shuts the motor off a little later than the cutoff lever trips, which you can adjust the timing to get your desired amount of precocking.

if you're aiming for a snappy build then you'll want a mosfet with precocking, something like a warfet or ab++ will be fine if you're not switching between semi and auto often. the warhead is definately the motor you'd want for this, i'd go with a standard speed and as mentioned above if that's not enough for you then upping the gearing and/or battery voltage remains an open possibility.

Dodged that particular bullet so far

in your most recent post you seemed pretty confident it was one specific person, so not hard to point out? i know the feeling, but the message you're giving the site currently is "don't worry about mr airsniper complaining about certain players, he'll grumble and moan on the internet and be back with a fresh set of green fee's next week" yes it does, which is why the unfortunate truth is that whilst some venues might be able to maintain a better average, even an otherwise good site can be ruined by a couple of cunts picking that place on that weekend to show up and ruin everyone else's fun. unfortunately, the human race's infinite ability to generate arseholes means this is a problem that airsoft will never be able to rid itself of. end of the day this is a hobby played for fun, to enjoy ourselves, and if it's not possible to maintain enough good times to overrule the bad then why keep doing it? why expend the time, money and effort to keep doing something that's just making you angry and frustrated?

If the players at the site you play at are breaking rules, then your first port of call is to report them to the marshalling staff. If the staff cant/wont do anything about it then vote with your wallet, show them that their failure directly results in loss of customers and revenue. Go somewhere else. If none of the sites you can travel to are able to provide a decent game then maybe it's time to consider other hobbies.

hmm, that's an interesting one, i can see it not dropping by much, but it should definately be dropping a tad. however if it hasn't then no reason not to keep it that way. lower capacity/current rating? that'll help, although wether or not it'll help enough is hard to say.

it's more how far the piston retracts during the shot before it slips off the sector gear, which isn't affected by precocking. that's definately pointing towards it being an over-currrent or similar system, lowering the precocking might help it enough, as will a weaker spring (if you're happy to take the energy drop that'd give). 11.1v won't be helping either, more current through the motor (and by extension the mosfet). other option is if your situation allows try using bursts of auto as opposed to semi-spamming, less of a stop-start loading will be less load on the motor.

hmm, it doesn't look like it's running and obvious levers that interact with a col (like the old school ascu's), and "cycle detection" generally inferrs something watching the sector teeth rather than relying on the cam. it might put notion to the idea of it being an over-current situation if the battery is meaty enough to feed what the motor's asking for. it really depends on the specific build and your preference. to me your picture is what i'd call "adequate", but then my hpa days kinda made me a tad obsessive about minimal lock time. mechanically, there's not really an issue with any level of precocking as long as you de-stress the spring before putting it in storage (afaik perun mosfets have a function for doing this), you'd want a build worth its salt to be able to start from any point in the cycle. electrically, the more precocking, the more load on the motor on startup, the more current it'll draw and if the mosfet doesn't like it then it'll either cutout (if it has overcurrent protection) or in the extreme go pop. i'm wondering about those compression rings, do they clear the piston ok? it might be worth looking at running a stronger spring without the rings to see if that helps, might be if the piston clips the rings it locks up (once had a box do that on the spring, when the spring was compressed it expanded just enough to bind up inside the piston and lock it to the rear)

I'm assuming the ssr is one of the gate optical mosfets? Typically a "lock up" is a function of the cutoff lever, so a gun with an optical cycle detection can't lock up the same way you'd get on a mechanical trigger unit. There can be a correlation with precocking, the stronger the spring/higher the precocking setting the more starting load the motor will be under, that'll also get augmented by high speed gearing. Motor might not fully stall but might draw enough current to trip the mosfet's current protection.

i can see breaking tappet plates if they're being engaged at full speed by a motor that's not been braked by a mainspring, but can't see the closing side having issues. if anything the reverse, as it gives the tappet plate the most time to return to battery after release before the mainspring is unleashed. but as you say weird things happening is inevitable, stuff that should shoot fine is all over the place and stuff that's nothing to write home about can punch well above its weight.

hmm, as i explained not sure how it'd get timing issues from a full release side (as it's basically the stock release time) but tbh unless you're going full brrt then i doubt it's gonna be that sensitive. whichever teeth you're removing though, if it's fine on a 300mm, then it'll not hurt a 200.

The main issue with short stroking is voluming, if you've got the gun volumed correctly then as long as the piston is clearing the front of the port then you're not gonna mess up the voluming from short stroking. If you're happy with that level on a longer barrel then you aint gonna have issues with shorter. As for pickup/release, i've always tend to go predominantly from pickup. The following paragraph is me trying (and probably failing) to explain my thinking: When its being released the tappet plate is under spring tension and takes time to close, and its not ideal for accuracy to be releasing the piston before then. If you only take from the pickup side then the tappet plate will be retracting earlier (relative to the piston) but releasing at the same time (as an un-modified sector) whereas if you take from the release side then the tappet plate will be closing later relative to the piston (ie less time between tappet closing and piston closing) and could mean it doesnt have time to close fully before the air starts coming. Needless to say for a snappier build this isn't ideal. Ofc main issue with taking from just the pickup is the sector might pick up the tappet before the piston, meaning there's no braking effect from the piston to slow the sector a tad before it engages the tappet. Although with a decently pokey motor odds are it wont be slowing that much on pickup anyway.

the only way i can think to get a pseudo semi auto in a fa gun would be to configure it to burst fire with a correctly timed pulse. there's no cutoff, so as far as the mosfet's concerned it's always in auto but when set to burst it'll cutout after the time you've set it to. downside is there's going to be nothing keeping phase with the box, so you might find unless dialled in perfectly (which may well be practically impossible) then you might get the odd double tap or failure to completely cycle.

Remember kids, fps doesnt matter and tm's will outrange anything on the field only if you dont mess with the internals. Except the vsr, apparently..... Meanwhile there's nothing special about tm's range, it's not pixie dust it's just matched parts manufactured to work well together. Theres also no secret to why they fall over when you start messing with them for the same reason any pew falls flat on its face if the teching approach is just shove in shiny parts and expect it to work better.

I think the pressure differences are a mix of propane/butane, the ratio determining the pressure, although i dont have any factual evidence to validate that theory. Do agree on the pressure, even if just at a standard temperature. I have had the odd thought experiment about what other gases might be good candidates, obv propane/butane are easily sourced being so commonly used in various industrial applications but there must surely be something with a lower boiling point that could handle the cold without going to the levels of co2.

Usually that pin should be under load when the gearbox is in position. Both the rear bolt for the stock tube, and the screws in the grip will pull the gearbox back against the pin you have pictured and the rear body pin. It might be the grip isn't giving the proper tension?

the typical trigger pull bodge on a v2 box is to tap a hole in the gearbox casing behind the trigger and put a grub screw in. essentially lets you adjust the trigger as if it's being pre-pulled. however there are 2 downsides; -first is the safety, which you can either be patient and file down, or be impatient and remove. personally i don't see much problem given making an airsoft pew "safe" involves pulling the mag and clearing the chamber, and if you're in-game you're gonna be on fire anyway. -second is the trigger mech, the above method works really well when there's an internal mosfet or contact that means you can adjust the trigger to literal hair-width levels of pull, but with a mechanical trigger unit you're only gonna be able to go so far back before the trolley won't reset properly.

tbf, fire selectors have their place. once got asked at chrono if i could fire my gun in semi-auto. ordinarily this wouldn't be funny but the gun i was chrono'ing was an mg42.....