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My Tokyo Marui NGRS URG-I 11.3 😊

Green gas should be fine especially this time of year. The only time I'd be careful about it is in the middle of summer when temperatures are high. Using a more powerful gas will cause parts to wear quicker but, unlike the claims some make, it won't explode into a million pieces on the first trigger pull. I've found a toothbrush is useful for getting dirt and grease out of the little books and crannies

I'm all ready to rock now, getting around 2.22J on 0.48g. Itching to use it in anger but now the weather this weekend looks poop for the Battlesim Lite at Red Alert I also had my son's old Viper ready rig, he just runs a belt now, now fitted with a couple of Kydex Customs TAC-41 extended mag holders.

Close enough anyway. Purchased the initial PTS kit release in March 2010 prior to them coming out with complete replicas. So I'd imagine this was manufactured in late 09 or very early 10. I have to say a big thanks to @JCB181 who turned the tub full of busted-looking parts I sent him back in to a complete gun that can actually fold and shoot. I've got no intention of even regularly plinking this let alone taking it to games, but I did want to keep it and have it be whole at least. Even though I've got the Aegis version now to actually use, this original version is dear to my heart. Despite only being taken to maybe 1 or 2 games, this thing has been through the wars. I'd say that out of the 15 years it's existed, it has spent at least 12 of them being either broken or just sat in a box in bits. It has a 'dusty' look as an overly enthusiastic, much younger version of myself decided to give it a camo paint job not too long after I bought it. I'd just spray painted my PTS ACR at the time and I was on a camo paint kick I recall. I had someone try to remove the paint and they got most of it, but the Krylon seems to have really worked its' way in to the pores of the plastic and I don't think there is any way of getting it back to black at this point. The selector looks ground down because it has been. The FPG needs a proprietary super low-profile G18 selector that's far slimmer than the usual one in order for the Glock slide to fit inside the plastic kit. When I initially put the kit together it had an issue where by in use it would not stay in one of the 2 fire mode positions (either semi or full). My idiot self in 2010 super-glued the original part in place to permanently fix it to semi, and over the next few years that particular brand of glue somehow hardened in to a Vibranium type material. The actual internal parts of the Glock pistol have broken in a couple of different ways over the years, both up in the slide and down in the frame, meaning that the slide needed to be fully disassembled. The original selector had to be cut off and the low profile FPG-specific selector pieces for KWA/KSC G18s don't exactly grow on trees to put it mildly. Hence JCB has very kindly modified a regular KSC G18 selector to fit. In terms of the kit, many parts have broken from just the small amount of usage it's seen. The catch that holds the whole upper shroud with the pic rail closed had snapped, but luckily that was such a common issue that an aftermarket company sold a stronger replacement part (back when these guns were actually in common circulation). Also another spring loaded hook piece in the hand web area that locks the pistol grip in place broke after a few opens/closes, and there's currently a 1-off replacement machined from scratch in there instead. The gun has the aftermarket extended inner/outer barrel kit that was available for a short time, along with the optional sling attachment point on the main hinge, which was either Beta Project or a PTS accessory I think. Thinking now, I also have the pic mounted carry handle/iron sights in a box somewhere, need to dig that out. Anyway, mainly wanted to post this to give credit to JCB for putting this old thing back together. I've not done much internal work on GBB pistols myself and I definitely don't know much about KWA Glocks or the proprietary guts of the FPG. I took this to a couple of different guys I know who do work on RIFs and neither could get it sorted or really were interested in taking the time to do so, which is frankly quite understandable if you're not already familiar with this specific gun. When JCB messaged me out of the blue on here and managed to see the whole thing through to the end I was chuffed to say the least. Thanks mate 👌

- clean regularly: wipe down surfaces and remove excess dirt and oil from all the moving part surfaces. - clean the barrel regularly (I clean the barrel after every game day) using a strip of microfibre cloth and an airsoft barrel cleaner. - reapply oil to the moving parts. Silicone oil for plastic-plastic or metal-plastic parts. Using something like white lithium or PTFE spray. You only need a tiny amount.

I remember when these were released and all the hype around them. Has it really been 15 years? Cheers, now I feel old

Ive got a retention holster via the seler of the pistol so I will use that one Will clip it on to my vest belt and see if I can remove the inbuilt one

Nope I won it haha 😄 I can't believe it I should explain sorry, when you buy a new g&g product you get a qr code to enter a monthly prize draw then a yearly grand prize draw. I won the grand prize lol

Do I feel a dufuss or what? Got one of these well over a year ago and got it out to check the fps & j's of the toys I've recently bought but it wasn't working, was sure this had happened before & it just needed charging up so I plugged it in and went searching for reasons for the error on YouTube, as I was watching a review from an Aussie guy I realised the model I had could connect to the app on my phone (once I downloaded it). I'm on holiday this week so guess what I'll be doing all week... Nope, not the hoovering (that badly needs done) Nope, not the laundry (that badly needs doing) Nope, not the Eowyn garden tidy (that badly needs doing) or any other chore that I can ignore for a few days. This week, I'll mainly be saving data (that I really don't need) to an app on my phone.

The "BT" is for bluetooth. Stupidly i bought the non-bluetooth one. Still handy to have. I do have an Acetech tracer with a built-in chrono now that i need to try out. Are we still talking about chronos? 🤔

Airtac adapters need to use AEG mags with a significantly higher spring strength, cheap AEG mags are almost always not up to snuff. PTSEPM1/1S definitely work (what the adapters are designed around), older EPM's (Gen1) do not. Mags i've tested that do not work, anything made by KWA, Specna, Ares, Classic Army. Some CYMA's can work, but only more modern ones, G&G are hit and miss - if they have the follower that goes outside of the mag lip, forget it, G&P Troy mags will work, but you'll have to part fill. PSI wise, it'll depend solely on if the adapter in question has a built in expansion chamber, if it does you will be able to run it on 80-100PSI. If it feeds the line through the adapter direct to the output valve, it won't run on anything less than 120-130PSI, and probably more realistically 140-145psi (and if you've got heavy bolt, or other heavy recoil mods, higher PSI to overcome mass). Edit: Looked at them. Neither variant of airtac for VFC M4 has an expansion chamber, so its higher PSI almost certainly.

Made another little mod to the G3: I would say my hands are about average to slightly larger... wear medium of large gloves depending on the make. But the G3 selector throw from Safe to Semi was seemingly designed for people with five inch fingers... or Germans!? 🤔 I can just about snatch at the selector while I have the rifle shouldered, but only just - it's easier to slip it off into your arms which for some reason gives your hand a bit more reach. Anyway I drill and tapped the 'safe' detent, screwed in a 3mm grub screw, and then drilled a new detent slightly less than half way to the semi position. luckily the G3 offers you a lot of leeway before the safety actually comes off. Anyway, now anyone with normal sized hands can flip between safe and semi with about a 1 cm throw from the end of the selector without actually de-shouldering the rifle. Quite happy with how that turned out. Quite happy with how that turned out.

The CA scar does use a version two gearbox, I have worked on a few, mostly older M15 ones but also my brothers Nemesis, and the switch assembly location is pretty standard... No obvious reason it would not work.

I really didn't like how my wall looked in the pics above so I spent some time today fixing it. Still need to find a place for a G36C, Scar-L both two tones that I'll rattle can some day & an M4 I'll just put behind my Mk18mod1.

The less propellant you have to use to send the BB down the barrel the more that can be utilised to push the action rearward.

Thanks all. I did consider co2 and it starts strong but in 1 degree C night games it slugger later. Will be very careful starting 70psi moving slowly to 100/110ish to make sure its all good Thanks all! I think this is the one I need for my n4 https://airtac.me/products/vfc-apfg-m4-hpa-adapter-modular?variant=48572369010979

I'm not sure it 100% translates to this situation, but I read somewhere that at room temperature, normal green gas is around 120-130PSI. So on any GBB running on an HPA adapter, I treat this as the maximum PSI that i am prepared to go to without putting undue stress on the internals.

At the moment it's primarily Tanaka revolvers, the cheapest VFC GBBRs in the UK, for the most part and some other odds and sods sprinkled inbetween.

I bought an Airtac adapter, and with a simple twist of the regulator knob on the air tank, I made something inside my beloved VFC HK416 perform a Rapid Unscheduled Disassembly. It went from 'sluggish' to 'busted' with one ill-judged moment. A bit of metal broke off, not sure if it's from the bolt carrier or the trigger assembly, but the whole thing is jammed together and I've not been able to separate the upper from lower receiver (though I've not tried very hard yet). So what ever you do, take note of my hard won words of wisdom / caution: 1. Ensure your RIF is well lubed and shooting nicely at room temp from gas, so there's no internal stickiness to overcome. 2. Dial the air pressure in slowly (starting at 'way too low'), in small increments. The adapter will add a lot to the effective length of the mag well, so maybe invest in some VN mags for AR's, or short MP5 mags, as appropriate?

If it helps, I'm fairly certain PTS had already been doing Magpul stuff for at least a year or two by the time 2010 rolled around. At this point I'd say it's probably been pushing a decade since they lost the license and switched from 'Magpul PTS' to just the three letter acronym.

I just had the exact same thought 😂 back when the Magpul gear was all the rage, along with those 'Art of the Tactical x' videos they made!

Oh well then... I'll take it off your hands & you'll be £200 better off.

[Team killed coming through a door] "Sorry, mate, didn't know you were red!" OK, try saying that now. [Team killed coming through a door] "Sorry, mate, didn't know you were blue!" OK, try saying that now.

Excellent. We know who to give our shopping lists to now.

They’re retiring aren’t they?

Well that was a wet and windy one today, wasn't it? Went to Worthing for their annual tribute game called "Tom's game" in honour of Tom Andrews, the former owner and one of the real original airsoft guys in the UK who was an utter legend; he was the guy who got me into airsoft and was a lovely chap who just wanted to get people into the hobby. Got nothing but good things to say about the guy, but he unfortunately passed away about 9 years ago (I think, but could be wrong on the exact number), so every year the 2nd game day in January is in honour of him. That also said, I only played the first game (well, two games, but it was the same games but switching sides) today. Left my pistols, holsters, belt kit and ghillie (both my ghillie and rifle ghillie) in the car and just went out with my SRS. One mag in the gun, 4 mags in my pockets and no pistol for sub 30m engagements, so I had to be careful. It was a simple king of the hill style game at the tower base, and so I took up my favourite spot in the first game and got a load of kills from that spot, still totally invisible without my ghillie as nobody even shot at me, then 2nd game I... really started to feel the wind. I was trying to shoot at a guy through a gap, but the wind was catching my BBs before they even got to the gap and blew them way off course. It was during this game that it also started to rain fairly heavily, so I called it there. Had fun, games were simple but fun, no issues with anyone not taking their hits, and even the rentals were good today, both on hit taking and standard rental behaviours of giving your position away or friendly firing you; none of that happened! I knew I wasn't going to play too much with the forecast how it was, so the other guns I brought along were the Tanaka m700 AICS and my MTW 308. It's hard to say exactly because the wind was so strong, but both guns were performing flawlessly (all my shots were veering off to the right because of the wind, but the hop trajectory looked good!). I used my HPA tapped mag to test the m700 and with the parts I put in it it's shooting phenomenally well, then I set the MTW up for 1.82 - 1.84J on .43s as a DMR with the dwell appropriately set for the new 420mm 6.08 PDI barrel I had spare and so chucked in it (that was the power spread. Really consistent!). No longer having any issues with the inconsistent hop up either, so that is now (finally!) all sorted, so going forward that'll be my main gun until the weather warms up and I can go back to my mk12 MWS as my DMR and my various m700s as bolt actions. Very productive day, but far from ideal weather conditions for airsoft, especially sniping!

Took a pic while I temporarily owned 2 x 203s.

Good purchase choice Probably one of the only “out of the box” skirmishable sniper RIF’s that I have fired I’d be running it as it is to see if it actually needs anything upgraded to make you competitive on the field I was genuinely shocked how good it was as standard