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L108A1 MK1 MINIMI. Mine is a take on the minimis used by the ill fated SAS team "Bravo two zero" during Gulf War 1 The pic below is their actual weapons that were captured!. The weapon system itself was just a standard Mk1 minimi. You may notice in the pics there is one difference! it was fitted with a gpmg flash hider. Which was also adopted by the Australians on their minimi's. (Designation F89) The L108 was only ever really used by the SAS. It was some years later before the minimi would become issued among the regular army. But that was the PARA version which was later designated the L110A1/A2 However the L108 was, and believed still is held in stores. My L108 is an original TOP M249. Has been upgraded externally with Guarder steel gas block & front sight, guarder steel upgrade body parts, guarder steel barrel/top cover block, g&p steel cocking lever, g&p steel bipod. Replica steel gpmg flash hider. I will eventually get round to doing internal, and convert the original gearbox over to a classic army one. Was then sprayed and weathered. L7A2 GENERAL PURPOSE MACHINE GUN WARNING.... EXTREMELY LONG READ!!! I've tried to keep this as short as possible without losing too much needed info. An even deeper version will be done at a later stage, which will also focus on the early FN and newer HK versions. This is a complete custom build, made of full steel, and is currently 99.9% accurate to a real L7 I know that for some of you, who have seen some of this build before, we’re covering old ground - but please don’t run away just yet! Now, with the final piece of my puzzle, an accurate custom made steel barrel arriving. I've decided it was time to sort it all out, and refresh the build for a more informative experience. And to help explain why the L7 isn't just another M240..... Also, having done so much research over the course of this project, I’d thought it was time to share some of what I’ve learned and hopefully shed some light on why the changes I’m making were necessary. I’d also like this post to be able to aid others in their builds, and to hopefully shine a light for those with a particular eye for detail upon the things that might otherwise be overlooked. So, let’s begin. The basis for this project was originally an Inokatsu’s M240B. However, over time, this changed, and I had to have a completely new body and barrel made due to the amount of differences. The old inokatsu bits ended up being used in exchanges of parts. So as I got thinking about making a British variant, I did decide to do a bit of light reading (so I thought) - and I was completely astonished by just how much history surrounds the GPMG. So, for the history lesson! THE FN MAG 58 The first Fabrique Nationale d’Herstal (FN) MAG was designed in the early Fifties by a guy called Ernest Vervier. It combines the trigger mechanism and belt feed system from the WWII-era German Maschinengewehr 42 (MG42) with a more updated take on the gas-operated mechanism from the WWI-era American Browning Automatic Rifle (M1918 BAR). It was called the MAG 60-20, later the ‘MAG 58’; MAG being the acronym for "Mitrailleuse d'Appui Général’ or “Mitrailleuse á gaz”, French for ‘General Purpose Machine Gun’, and “58” denoting the year production commenced. The 3 primary MAG variants were: • MAG 60-20 Infantry version • MAG 60-30 Fixed aircraft version with either left or right feed • MAG 60-40 Coaxial version Specifications: • Calibre: 7.62x51mm NATO • Action: Gas operated, open bolt • Feed: NATO M13 ammunition belt or the non-disintegrating DM1 • Weight: 10.9kg (24Ib) • Length: 1,232mm (48.5 inches) • Rate of Fire: 625 - 900 rpm • Muzzle Velocity: 838m/s (2,749ft/s) • Range: 800m (2,625ft, light role) - 1,800m (5,905ft, sustained fire role/tripod mounted) THE L7 The original British variant of the MAG 58 (technically the MAG 60-20 T3), the L7(A1), was brought into service in 1957 and produced by FN. Then in 1962, under license by FN, the Royal Small Arms Factory (RSAF) in Enfield Lock, took over production making further improvements and incorporated into the L7(A2) (MAG 60-20 T6). In 1984 the RSAF became Royal Ordnance Plc., which four years later was bought out by BAE Systems, resulting shortly thereafter in the closure of the original site. After that, it fell to several sub-contractors, notably Manroy Engineering (now FN UK), to oversee both the production of spare parts, and general refurbishment of the GPMGs until mid-2008. In late 2008, Heckler & Koch were given the contract to produce all spare parts and accessories, having had the task of producing new barrels for the gun since 2003. In 2011 HK won an additional three year contract for a mid-life improvement program (MLI). In 2008-09 the MoD solicited tenders for manufacture and support of the GPMG; by this point the original design copyright owned by Fabrique Nationale d’Herstal had expired. The three main respondents were HK, FN, and Manroy. The tender required the entrants to submit guns for testing, with HK’s version being the most publicised. Finally, after years of testing in the laboratory, training and in the field, in late 2014 the MoD announced that HK had won the contract to produce the L7s and their spares for the next few years. The L7 GPMG, nicknamed “the General” or “the Gimpy” (pronounced ‘Jimpy’), has seen every British military engagement since entering service, including action in Aden, Borneo, Rhodesia, Northern Ireland, Oman, Falklands, Bosnia, Kosovo, Sierra Leone, Afghanistan, and Iraq. THE MAG 58 WORLDWIDE Over 200,000 examples of the MAG series and other variants have been used by more than 80 other countries over a similar period under different designations. For example: • Austria - 7.62mm MG MAG/Pz • Argentina - 7.62 ametralladora Tipo 20-60 MAG • Brazil - M971 • Canada - C6 • India 7.62 2A1 • Indonesia - SPM2 • Republic of China - CQ 7.62x51 • Sweden - KSP 58 • Taiwan - Type 74 THE M240 America did eventually jump onto the bandwagon, but relatively late and not until it had designed its own version of the MAG series. Known as the M240, it was put in service in 1977 and was used only as a co-axial variant fitted to armoured vehicles. An infantry variant - the M240G - wasn't introduced until 1991 by the USMC as a replacement for the dated and unreliable M60. The US Army adopted the weapon in 1995 as the M240E4, later the M240B. As in British service, several variants were to follow, including the M240C, M240D (E1), M240H (E5) and M240L, which is a new lightweight variant. Compared to the L7 the M240 infantry variant has only seen a few engagements mainly, Somalia, Kosovo, Afghanistan and Iraq (1991 and 2003). THE PARTS Like myself at first, many people don't realise just how different the L7A2 and M240 are, despite being the machinegun equivalent of siblings. After extensive research and months spent studying plans, photos and parts lists, I was left with a list almost an A4 page long of parts and work that would be needed to turn my M240 into an L7A2. Over the course of a few years, I gradually acquired all the parts necessary to complete the build. They were: • Inokatsu original style replica flash hider • Barrel washer • Foresight & Foresight block (early type) • Sling swivel • Bipod with height adjuster • Bipod retaining latch • Gas block & gas plug replica • Gas regulator • Top cover • Top cover plunger • Top retaining bolt and castle nut • Carry handle assembly • Barrel release catch • Cocking lever and knob • Feed tray • Ejection port cover • Trigger Group retaining pin • Rear sight aperture and slide • Trigger grips • C2 sight side mount • Stock • 50rd belt tin • Sling Later came things like my tripod, carry cases and all the other ancillary parts associated with the gpmg. As the build started to unfold, I took the opportunity to actually show you some of the major and minor differences between the L7 and the M240 parts, to help explain why I needed to change or alter so many of them. Now, not just the parts, but even the body differences are quite drastic. • Rear sights (M240 straight, L7 curved with finger grooves) • Reinforcement for stock on side plates (M240 bigger gaps, L7 more Reinforced) • Cocking lever support bar (M240 grooved, L7 more reinforced) • Front trunnion (M240 has a small ridge, L7 rounded) • Gas tube (M240 has large rear section, L7 slimmer rear and 2 vent holes. Also to note the L7 variant has grooves both sides to allow for an ambidextrous mounting of sling swivel. M240 will only sit on the left side) • Barrel (M240 is smooth behind Gas block, L7 has 2 grooves that allow for a better seating on Gas tube) MARKINGS The top row speaks for itself; the next row is the first important bit. The first two letters denote the country then factory; "BL" for ‘Belgium Liège’ (meaning the gun was made by FN), "UE" for ‘UK Enfield’ (meaning the gun was made by RSAF), Additionally, "HK" for ‘Heckler & Koch’ along with their test batches will be engraved on all future GPMGs. The next two numbers denote the year of manufacture, e.g. 75 for 1975. The possible combinations are 57-73 (BL), 62-88 (UE) and 08-11 12-present (HK). The "A" prefix is a batch number and was just added to the sequential sequence to allow the 4 digit serial number to remain (e.g. A0001-A9999, then rolling over to B0001 if the production for an individual year exceeded 9999 guns). Then next the four numbers are the last four digits of the weapon’s serial number. Newer Heckler & Koch made examples have 6 digits followed by three proof marks. The bottom row of numbers is the NSN (NATO Stock Number) for the weapon. The NSN is a 13-digit code used to identify more or less everything purchased by NATO forces. Individual components and whole weapons are listed (for example, the GPMGs carry handle alone consists of six individually-NSN numbered parts; the entire assembly is also listed as a single NSN). The weapons themselves are listed whole: L7A2 - C1/1005-13-103-2524 L85A2 - C1/1005-99-250-9030 L119A1 - C1/1005-21-920-6546 BARREL MARKINGS Early Barrels ( before HK) were stamped with a “L” designation along with the weapon’s serial number, which should be within 6” of the chamber on the right side using a 5-6mm (⅛”) stamp. This would normally be the weapon’s full serial (‘UE84 A2912’) and barrel calibre. So the infantry barrel was designated L1A2. My original barrel has been done, just need to get the new steel one done. The reason why barrels are normally stamped with the serial number is because each barrel is paired to a specific parent gun, and not supposed to be used with other guns. This is because of cartridge headspacing (CHS) matching between the barrel and body. So over time the barrel locking thread on the body wears, and to counter this various size locking nuts with different thread thicknesses are in use. On the locking nut itself, there are some serrations that the barrel locking latch will use to keep the barrel from coming free, and these cause the latch to click repeatedly as the barrel is locked home. The number of clicks is important - the minimum is three and maximum is 7 - as it demonstrates whether the barrel nut is too worn. If the latch clicks fewer than three times, the barrel will not be held or locked sufficiently. If it clicks more than 7 times, then the thread on the gun has become worn and the locking nut must be changed for the barrel to stay positioned correctly. Because one gun may have to use barrel nut size 2, it may fit perfect on that gun, but it will possibly be too tight or too loose to fit onto another gun; hence, the pairing arrangement. PAINTING Early gpmgs were painted with a paint called Suncorite 259. This was then changed in mid 2000s, having been phased out under new EU environmental regulations. All contractors - the likes of Manroy and HK - are now free to use their own firearm coatings, so long as they meet the standard, which in the UK is called ‘DEF STAN 80-56’. Mine was sprayed with what’s called ‘Small Arms Black’. However, I have also sprayed parts with Halfords satin black and can tell you there's not that much of a difference. BALANCING MARK On British GPMGs they have a white line placed towards the rear right side of the weapon, called a balancing mark. The white line corresponds to the position the cocking handle should be in when ‘balancing’ the weapon. It acts as a visual guide to show where the working parts make contact with the second sear (the former being the safety sear). The safety sear was put in on later models to stop what’s known as a ‘runaway gun’, a condition where the bolt doesn’t engage the sear and the gun will fire uncontrollably without trigger input until the ammunition is exhausted, you have a stoppage, or bits of the gun begin to melt. These would be placed from new or fresh refurb, when the weapon was balanced with it’s parent barrel, and its spare barrels matched. The mark can vary in size with Tippex or a white paint pen. The line itself will always be placed directly above the last rivet. UNIT MARKS/BUTT NUMBERS These are basic armoury numbers for quick counting and easy identification, and are normally referred to as “Butt numbers”. These are most commonly found on feed covers & buttstocks. The numbers are there for ease of retrieving a particular weapon from the rack. For example, L7A2 BL69A073249 could be rack number 55. It’s easier, when looking at a rack of 100+ weapons, to just grab the one with the big 55 number on it, instead of having to go through each weapon to check for the serial number. These would often just be written on with a paint pen, but is becoming more common to see them done with a label machine. Other number/marks will include: Vehicle or unit call sign, e.g. "10B", "33A", "24C" with the exception of "11" and "22" in an armoured battalion. The number plate if mounted on a vehicle, as has been seen on some wmiks in afghan. "Sf(followed by butt number)" if part of a Support fire role (with tripod) Zap number; the individual soldier’s casualty identification number, this is the first 2 letters of the surname and the last four from their service number. For example, Davis 25015598 would be DA5598. Some people had this written on a bit of scapa/sniper tape, which was wrapped around the stock just in case in Afghanistan, but it was not standard procedure. Units have also been known to paint colours on the top covers. This is sometimes done to identify a company or squadron within a regiment, battalion or battle group. Coloured patches are normally placed on the top cover, and although it’s not commonly done, it is more often seen on L85s & SUSATs The usual main colours are red, green, blue or yellow. I've kept mine simple, and just added the number "13". Originally I had it marked with red to symbolise A COY 3 PARA in afghan 2008. But later removed it. Barrels Some times the carry handle is marked to determine if its the main, spare or even blank barrel. Some are even marked with the weapons serial or sf number. I've added the number "1" to mine to determine its the main barrel. GEARBOX AND FEED SYSTEM Having devoted so much of this thread to the externals, it's time to show the beating heart of the beast. The gearbox was originally built up when I purchased the M240. Since then I’ve had to replace a few bits due to general wear and tear, but this is how the internals stand at present: Guarder SP110 mainspring Ultimate piston head (ventilated hexachrome aluminium) Systema Area 1000 v.3 cylinder head Systema Area 1000 Teflon cylinder Systema Area 1000 oilless 6mm bushings Systema Energy v.3 tappet plate Systema v.2 flat gear set Systema Jet AK nozzle TM AK hop-up chamber parts Madbull Blue hop-up rubber TM EG1000 short-shaft motor TM 509mm (M16-length) inner barrel It currently chronographs at 337fps with Blaster 0.20g BB’s; consistency is excellent and the range is wicked on 0.20's, although trying to get it to fire individual shots is very hard as it’s either safe or cyclic! I've kept the standard barrel on this and not upgraded it for the simple reason that I want to use it how a support weapon should be used. With work I could have it DMR accurate, but I like to harass a whole barricade, not just one person. The inside of the Inokatsu is a fairly typical AEG gearbox; what complicates the gun is - as usual for box-fed airsoft guns - the feed system. I had originally wanted to use a G&P M249 auto-winding box magazine. Unfortunately, after receiving a donated one I found that the mechanism itself was just too big to fit into the smaller 50rd ammunition tin fitted to my gun. I looked at other types of box and drum magazines, but nothing stood out until a forum member approached me with a spare Echo1 M240 box magazine for sale. Having received it, I promptly ripped it apart for the feed mechanism. Unhappy with the wiring I decided to strip the G&P box for parts too, and soon a Frankensteinian monster was in the making. The chief reason for trying to marry the G&P’s electronics to the Echo1’s mechanics was my decision to power the gun with a 9.9v LiFe. The Echo1’s harness is made of extremely thin wire, and I’m worried that the stress of long bursts of fire may cause it to overheat. The G&P harness is heavier-duty, and also has a circuit board with an integrated transformer to vary the battery’s high voltage to the lower voltage required by the winding mechanism’s motor. Usefully, the circuit board also continues to wind the magazine for a few seconds after you release the trigger, ensuring there are BBs fed for the next burst. I cut and bent a metal plate to act as a makeshift reservoir, and cut a rectangle in the side of it to hold the LiFe. I'm still looking for other ways to store the battery, so this isn’t necessarily final. I also tried to think of a way to hide the feed tube, but there wasn't enough room to do so; for the moment at least I've had to stick with the feed sticking out the bottom. The feed tube may have been too big but the wiring wasn’t, so that has now been hidden after making a cut out in both the body under the feed tray and on the edge of the ammo box lid. Bear in mind that this magazine is really only a prototype and still under development. I need to make sure things work reliably, and I would like to simplify the wiring at some point before I make something more permanent Hope you've enjoyed this build and all the info that makes the L7 unique, and you haven't fallen asleep yet. Thank you for taking the time to read. Now for the finished item...

Hi guys. So instead of clogging up the standard pics thread, though it was time to do a separate one specifically. So this is for any weapon that has/ is seen in use with UK forces. This is open to anyone wanting to show off builds or get knowledge on the specifics of a British weapon, and so forth. So I'll start. My collection so far. L9A1 MK2 BROWNING L9A1 MK3 L9A1 MK3 DS L105A1 SIG 226 L105A2 SIG 226R L117A1 SIG 229 L131A1 GEN 4 GLOCK 17 L22A2 L85A2 AFGHAN 09 L85A2 TES L85A2/L123A2 UGL L85A3 L86A2 LSW L1A1 SLR L129A1 SHARPSHOOTER L115A3 AI338 L119A1 CQB L119A1 SFW COLT MODEL 725 COLT MODEL 715 COLT MODEL 701 COLT MODEL 604 COLT MODEL 603 L2A3 SMG L91A1 MP5SD L92A1 MP5A3 L74A1 M870 L128A1 M1014 L101A1 HK53 MC51SD G3A4 L1A1 66mm LAW66 L7A2 GPMG L108A1 MK1 MINIMI So first up we have both the shotguns. The L128A1, which is a based on a M1014 combat shotgun. This was brought in during operations in Afghanistan, and I believe it's still in service. This model is the cheap DE m56 model. I am planning on doing some work to this to make it a bit more realistic and less plastic looking. Plus just waiting on someone to do a metal body version. I know cyma did, but front end was wrong. Next up is the L74A1, which is an M870 shotgun. The SAS used both the short and long versions. Was brought in around the 80's and was still seen in use a few years back for door breaching in Afghanistan. This model is the G&P version, and I've added the folding stock and torch handguard. The standard end cap was removed and replaced with a genuine one that allows a sling swivel onto it. Some work to do in this too, but the quality is far superior to the DE. Next on the list is the 2 Sig P226's. One is the L105A1 and the other is the L105A2. The difference between the 2 visually is the A1 is the non railed version and the A2 is railed. The A1 was used by the SAS in the late 80s to early 90s. The A2 was brought in on a UOR (Urgent Operational Requirement) when we went into Afghanistan. The MoD at the time were looking at replacing the ageing browning HI power for something more modern. But the tender hadn't been released. So the sig was used as a quick fix for a short duration before we finally opted for the Glock 17 Gen 4. Both these pistols have full guarder kits and steel outer barrel. The railed version has the full tune up kit and steel external parts. The non railed is still to be worked on. The A1 boasts a real surefire torch, real early west german grips and early style sig rear sight. Both surefire and grips took alot of work to fit. Only work to do on these is on the uppers. Both of these unfortunately are U.S marked, where the British ones came straight from sig Europe. So trades will be filled then possibly cerakoted Still in the sig family, is the L117A1 or P229. I have very little info on these pistols other than was used by SAS and close protection teams. But have no pics of these in action. With mine, nothing special to report on this at the moment. It's just a box standard WE. I will be looking at getting correct trades done lown the line. But as no pics about of the 229 in service, it's hard to say what those trades are. But I would guess european/ West german, same as the P226 came with.

Australian Glock.

It will be slightly proprietary, as its an internal magazine. Similar to the vfc m249, but with the choice to buy a jungle tin if you want an actual box mag. I just hope they get it right. As I have been involved in this from day one. Infact it's my GPMG that has been used for all the measurements and all my info I've gathered over the years for them to get it right. Yes there maybe teething problems to start. As theyre hoping to have the prototype finished soon, and a working video of it shooting in next few weeks. (And no, I'm not affiliated with Dave. But I was sort out to help by both him and lambda with this, as I built my own gpmg from scratch. Hence I know what's gone into this project.)

Happy Christmas to all forum members. I hope you all get what you wish for. Have a good time?? Regards

L119A1 SFW & CQB Both of these are AEG's So lets go from tip to toe.... With the SFW first then CQB BARREL SFW The barrel on this is a rare (unknown brand) Steel with stampings. The heavy section of this barrel is a collar and can be removed, so had a more accurate collar made. The flash hider unfortunately for now is a TM aluminium one, where i am hoping to be able to source 2 steel 14mm negative flash hiders for both of these. Gas block is an original Army Code steel one, not the later Warlord tactical one. This also has a real circular type sight post fitted. CQB This has just a standard G&P barrel on for now, but do have a steel Guarder barrel waiting to go on. this is once ive managed to source a steel flash hider as mentioned above and also a steel type front sight block, as the one fitted at the moment is just a standard G&P one with the bayonet lug removed as per the real thing. Both rifles have real AR end caps fitted along with the Guarder Real delta rings. RAILS Both rails are genuine KAC ones, however they are actually different! The CQB has a standard type fitted, where as the SFW has the UK spec fitted. Now the difference is, that the standard type only has one screw located on the top rail at the back to retain against the delta ring teeth. On the UK spec type, they also have one fitted on the lower rail to allow for the weight of the UGL, so it wont fall off if the delta ring is caught or slid back. All panels and grips are genuine KAC ones. RECEIVERS The SFW one is an original dragon red, which comes engraved with correct markings from new. The CQb however is a G&P which has had to be engraved. Both have the correct key hole cast marks added along with the correct rail adaptions done. The alterations to both receivers are: Angle added to front section of rial. Extra slot added at rear of rail. the rail sides at rear have been made shorter. A drop/angle added at rear just above the carry handle. They both have the G&P small steel parts fitted. GRIPS The Sfw has a Guarder large AR grip fitted. these are nice for the larger hand guys like myslef, and is more realistic looking along with accurate markings. only down side is that unlike its real counterpart, it doesnt have the trap door on the bottom leaving the standard AEG motor plate visable. The CQB has the G&P storm grip, which I find ok but not comfortable. This is since the sides are flat, not rounded like the Guarder. It's also missing markings. only saving grace is that it simulates the trap door like on the real. I did try to alter a spare to fit the Guarder, but its too different and would require extensive modding to point of it been unusable. Just wish someone would make a more accurate one for a AEG. STOCK/TUBE So both stock tubes on these are the G&P ones, with the HAO canada type locking rings on (not pictured) The SFW has a real Diemaco sling plate added, where the CQB now has a real magpul ASAP plate (not pictured also) Both stocks are real with real butt pads, however the SFW has the correct Diemaco textured stock. The CQB has the normal CAR type stock. I do also have a spare Warlord tactical butt pad, and tbh, its pretty close to the real one. SIGHTS SFW has a genuine Diemaco D.I.S carry handle, where the CQB has a genuine Matech BUIS, but a cheap clone TA01 ACOG for now. The CQB also has a G&P PEQ2 fully working for now, but am looking to upgrade in the future to the PEQ15. And a genuine surefire scout light.

Look forward to see them showing up in Macks tread. Rare custom Khyber pass Glock 19.

L129A1 sharpshooter. The real rifle is a Lewis Machine & Tool (LMT) 7.62mm sharpshooter rifle. The British then gave it the designation L129A1. It features *LMT crane stock *LMT rail panel *LMT sling point *LMT Ergo grip *KAC flip up sights *Harris bipod with A.R.M.S QD mount *Surefire FH762K05 flash hider *TDI arms FFGB2 folding grip Most models came with the *Trijicon Acog 6x48 BAC .308 scope. But some others were also fitted with the *Schmidt & Bender PMII 5-25x56 scope. These were the main scope used on the L115A3 rifles. The airsoft one; These are not your run of the mill production models. Both the flash hider and rail, are custom made replicas of the real thing. Mine is fitted with *Clone KAC flip up sights. *Clone LMT panels *Clone LMT Ergo grip. *Genuine LMT stock *Genuine LMT sling mount & Rear plate *Clone TDI arms grip *Clone Harris bipod *G&P bipod mount The base rifle is a G&G SR25 E2 APU model. I've also added butt number with a white paint pen and also the British QR code to the magwell. This is where it is placed on the real rifle. There are a few things that needs doing to this. Mainly getting the correct trades done. A few other parts of the body changed. Then giving it a coat of FDE as per the real rifle. Next up is the 6X48 Acog. Mine is a 3D printed version. Lots of stuff has been done to this to make it as accurate as possible. A clone 4x acog was used as a donor internals. Whole thing was sprayed silver, then had several layers of black over the top. Then just weathered it back to look like it's really metal. Also added the QR code, serial numbers and butt number to the top.

SA80 Family So all my version are made by STAR/ARES. L85A3 I wasn't a fan of the original A3 front end. So swapped it out for the Angry gun version. However, this took quite a bit of work to fit. So things like the gas block and the area where the rail meets the body. Both had to be demelled and sanded down. the mount pin hole had to be elongated. New holes added to fit the angry gun top rail. Also engraved the C Reinforcement welds. I then had the LLM03 3d printed, along with a replica of the push button. Also fitted is the ARES OS4 replica and a genuine LLM01 push button mount. QR code and HKA3 stickers added to receiver. L85A2 TES (Theatre Entry Standard) In airsoft this is often refered to as the "Afghan spec". Boasts correct; * replica surefire flash hider * LLm01 * Grip pod * DD rail * Riser mount * Acog with wing mount. L85A2 (2008 3 para variant) This version comes with a genuine HK LLM01 adapted hand guard. This was only seen for a short period with some units before the DD rail was adopted. This rifle is based off a mates unit, who served with the paras. So all labels and marks are exactly as placed on his rifle during his tour. All I did was change the butt number. Then weathered the hell out of it and spent alot of time making the susat look real. L86A2 LSW Apart from weathering, this is completely standard and has had little work done. Only parts added it a genuine bipod latch. L22A2 This wasn't working and required a few parts. But they're all sorted. Also has a genuine HK grip as used on the real counterpart. Then do e the usual weathering to both body and susat sight. Also made a batch of correct UK weapon stickers for the SA80 and SUSAT. L85A2/L123A2 UGL This is still on my to finish list. The rifle itself needs alot of work. The launcher on the other hand has had the end of the launcher lathed down to resemble the real end and can now correctly fit the genuine dust cap. I've also had a real LLM01 pressure switch holder fitted, and re worked the side rail and bolts. I'm looking at getting the trades removed and having correct ones re laser engraved. Then will get the same weathering treatment as all the others. Then below those are the stickers I had made to replicate the HK markings on the rear of the receivers and the QR codes. Also a better look at the weathering on the susats.

L1A1 SLR This is the original King Arms version. This has had alot of work and real parts fitted. Real parts fitted; * stock & butt plate * rear sight * cocking lever * top dust cover * carry handle * handguard * sling and sling mounts. The work done so far; had a steel front sight/gas block made, along with a replica Steel flash hider. The receiver has been stamped in places with matching serial numbers. Same goes for the fake bolt. Only thing left is to have a steel barrel made. Not pictured is I've managed to convert real slr mags to fit and hold the king arms internals and feeds fine. L9A1 Browning HI powers. the 3 models i have are all the WE versions. and are based off a MKII, MKIII early & MKIII late version The MK2 was made some years ago long before WE released their MK3 model. For this MK2 build, I had to remote the original gp35 style rear sight, which was a pain!. Filled the gap with a putty called quiksteel, then smoothed down the upper to match the slimmer (later) profile Slide. I then added a genuine sights, sling loop and real mk2 grips. Both the grips and frame have to be altered a bit both both will marry up to a degree. I then went and had the correct L9 markings added to both upper and lower. Only issue was they were supposed to fully engrave it. But wires got crossed and they only laser engraved it. But will just have to live with it for now. Now both the MKIII's, these were purchased with the markings already done. Only differences between the 2, the early type (more side markings) now has real MK3 grips and rear sight. The latter type is just box standard for now.

Source "Trust the bro I trusted, bro."

Painted by Stevie Wonder after someone cut his fingers off.

Too tired to post pics so... I don't have the detailed knowledge about the specifics of pews I have & those with a close or a tenious connection to the British armed forces, so be prewarned... what I think I have is potentially wrong/incorrect. L96A1/L115A1 springer, bought as a basic two-tone before my ukara & now painted to resemble the Green Meanie. L96A2/L115A2 springer, another cheap wallhanger I've rattle canned with a 'Kewl' desert pattern cam. L96/Arcti Warfare, left stock & un painted simply coz I like it as it is. SMLE mk3, springer, previously a tow-tone but cleaned up fairly well by the previous owner. Thompson 1921, a denix replica in full 'gangster' mode with 50 rnd drum mag. Thompson M1A1, a rattled ex two-tone which needs a much better paint job. Sten mk2, denix replica (weighs a bloody tonne, in fact all the denix stuff is heavy). MP5SD6, retractable stock, had one years ago & craved another one. MP5, hard stock. MP5, based on an Iranian Embassy pic with slim hand guard,retractable stock & humungeous SL-20XL torch on a crane mount. Mp5K Sterling mk4 L2A3, rubber prop, Cleaned a couple in the TA in my youff but never got the chance to fire one (as a chef in the ACC attached to the RA my spatula skills took priority). Steyr Aug, does the Falklands defence force count? EM2, rubber prop but cool as F*^k. L22A2, springer wallhanger. L85A2, with Daniel Defense hand guard, LLM01 & SUSAT L85A3, with fore grip/bipod & Elcan scope with RMR. L85A1, springer with iron sights & bayonet. L85A1, replica with susat & BFA. L85A2, with L123A1 UGL M230 GLM/UGL L131A1 glock17, does exactly what it says on the tin. L9A1 Browning High power. Sig Sauer L105A2 Sig 226, aquired a couple recently. M1911, got a few in different styles including a denix. M16A1, more of an VN than a UK. C8, Canadian version really. L1A1 with bayonet & wooden furniture, well it's really a rubber prop in need of a better paint job. L1A1, ares make. My first entry into airsoft (second time round), Love it as it was my personal weapon in the TA. L86A2, yeah I like bullpups 18 in total. Most have scopes/sights accessories to a certain degree, & lots of slings boxed away(most slings look messy on wallhangers IMO). I'm sure more of my collection have a link to UK armed forces but with even more tenious links than those above.

Well now i feel like my whole life's been a lie. ☹️

IM AN IDIOT, DONT HELP ME BREAK THE LAW & CAUSE PROBLEMS FOR GENUINE AIRSOFTERS.

Your asking people here to help you break the law, not happening. I'm redacting & locking the thread, put another up like it & you'll be banned.

This pic... It catches a few people out. This photo is actually from a BBC documentary on the seige. Here's a pic of the same gun, different angle.

This one from the embassy seige is a Maglite. Taped up, so presumably a stand-in for a Streamlight.

I bought a couple GBBRs first, then a couple Marui NGRSs after. You can't beat a GBBR for the realism, the "feel" and recoil, the noise. If you want even more, fit a muzzle flash simulator and in the dark it'll light up the gas cloud coming out the barrel like a muzzle Flash. I've not had mine long enough to comment on the maintenance aspect, but the cost difference is significant. The gas mags are 2-3x the cost of AEG ones, with very limited capacity. (30 for my 553, 20 for my G3.) Then the cost of gas itself. The guns are heavier and the mags are heavier too. I did buy a set of CO2 mags for my 553, which makes it fine in cold weather. And as per a suggestion from @Enid_Puceflange i got an NPAS for it too, as on the standard nozzle it'd put out 0.4s @ over 4J! With that turned down to 1.1J, the extra gas goes into the recoil. (I think.) But despite all of that, they're still great fun and very satisfying. The NGRSs are a great compromise, all the ease of an AEG without the running cost or limited ammo capacity of a GBB. The recoil is obviously limited, but still good. I run both, and switch between them on game days.

One of the more interesting projects for 2025. As you point out, it would very much be a heart rather than brain purchase. The one concern I would have is that Lambda make their gearbox somewhat proprietary in its fit. One of the threads over at Arnies mentioned the gearbox mounting holes as being different spec than the A&K 249 box in one of their MK48 variants.

It’s not a perfect fit, little bit of wobble, but absolutely acceptable for airsoft, or operations…

Model 603. The model 603 is what later came to be called M16A1. The ones issued to UK forces was the Colt export version. These became the go to weapon for the SAS In many theatres for some time. The difference between this and other AR platforms in use, The 603 had a forward assist, aswell as a full fence side. Compared to the non forward assist AR's in use like the 604 (partial fence) and the early 602 used in borneo (slab side) They also did away with the duck bill flash hider for the standard A1 type and a phosphate bolt, where 604 and 602 were chrome plated bolts. Mine is a take on ones seen sprayed/taped during jungle warfare and the odd ones seen during the falklands. Only thing that is left to sort on this, is to get rid of the standard markings and get the Colt M16A1 export marking ls added. And for those looking for the extra little details. The 603s had their serial number crudely engrave on the left side l, inside the carry handle.

2 more UK AR platforms added. First up. COLT MODEL 604 Here I have started to build a colt model 604, As issued to the British army in the late 60s, early 70s. So the Model 604 is a slight variation from the original model 602 (XM16/M16 VN) The 604 comprises of a XM16 stock with a pivoting sling mount. Not the static version fitted to the later model 603 (M16A1) Compared to the model 602 (M16 VN) which had a slab side, and the full fence of the model 603 (M16A1). The Model 604 used a partial fence. Now despite being upgraded internally the same as the 603, the externals pretty much still resembled the 602, with it's 3 prong (duck bill) flash hider and lack of forward assist. The British version differed from it's U.S. counterpart, and only had the standard colt export markings. As Well as being painted black with a paint called Suncorite, which all UK weapons had at the time. Now mine is still a work in progress. Ive had the markings filled. I'm still to source the correct rear sling mount. I then tried to replicate the suncurite paint best I could. As the real paint was just slapped on. I tried the same but in the picture below, looks smoother than it actually is. Only other thing is slings. Early version came with AR15 slings. But very quickly guys swapped these out for L1A1 SLR slings. So will look at that in the future too. Next up. COLT MODEL 701 To most its just a M16A2.... It is, but not quite. Main difference being, the fire selection. The U.S. issued A2 was colt model 702. Which externally are identical apart from the 702 was 3 round burst. Where the British issued 701 was full auto. Pictured here in use during OP barras in 2000. As far as I'm aware these where only purchased in small numbers, compared to the earlier colt model 715 (C7) which is still in wide use today. With mine, I've replicated the correct export markings along with with the correct "auto" marking. Upper is just a standard G&P upper with a real A2 handguard.

MP5's MP5's have been synonymous with the SAS/UKSF There have been many variants used. The 2 variants i have replicated are: L92A1 for the MP5A3 L91A1 For the SD version Both of these are the Classic army AEG versions. I'm not a fan tbh, if money was permitting I would rather GBBR versions. The L92 is a correct setup of the MP5's used during the Iranian Embassy siege. it has a genuine mount and torch, which is the streamlight SL20. Most people get this wrong and say they are maglites....... this is not the case!. Maglites came later with a special mount that had them mounted underneath the slim A3 handguard, which was the precursor to the later surefire handguard. As for the rest of it, there have been a few changes. Drilled out the body pin holes to fit real push pins. A steel Guarder cocking lever and custom steel tube made. The rear sight is a steel upgrade along with a Guarder steel early trigger (not pictured). Also a steel front sling loop and early steel flash hider fitted. A special adapter had to be made to fit the real A3 slim handguard. With the classic army/Tm and similar clones, the receivers are a tad too short. Where the WE/VFC GBBR will fit real grips no problems. The L91 is pretty much standard, other than adding a genuine surefire torch and L.P.E sd mount onto it. The scope isn't quite right, but left this on for now till I source the correct Aimpoint scope. The scope fitted at the moment is a Guarder 4x28 tactical scope (NB-28), which is a clone of the Hensoldt Z-24 scope mounted to MP5 & G3 platforms.

I love me a GBB. Pistol is still a GBB but after finding a good deal on here moved over to the DAS GDR15. Picked up two more since. Light magazines with up to 120 rounds all the fun of a GBB without the cool down or gas faff. Trigger took some time to get used to and mags are still a ball bag to fill but love it to death. Can get adapters that let you run off air tanks and whatever magazines you like (even shot shells) https://airtac.me/ my non gay life partner runs his this way and has loads of fun on walk on days. I think it takes all the fun manual of arms away but no denying it, mag dumping a 300 high cap gives one a semi. Tokyo Marui NGRS systems are really good. They have slight recoil and empty magazine detection so using them is fun. Really good hop and very reliable.

TBH, I got into gbbr’s by accident I always run a gbbr when the temp allows me to, but take an ngrs along for just in case……. At the start, I just couldn’t deal with the low ammo count, then one playing day it clicked and all came together, 6 mags saw me through to respawn quite happily and I would just bomb up before heading back out Changing my play style to semi only has also carried on to my ngrs playing too (but using midcaps) I would see if one of your playing buddies would let you try a game or two with a gbbr before you jump in! Ive easily now spent about £800 on mags, for just two gbbr’s so that gets expensive. Then, they do like to run on heavier ammo ( 0.36’s + heavier) so that adds to the cost too, but you are only pulling the trigger when you are almost guaranteed a hit! The immersion is totally different, and well worth it! A bit of extra maintenance, but it’s hardly ball busting and I find it quite therapeutic But it’s definitely worth trying Good luck ?

Try using 0.28g next time you play. Made a big difference when I switched.

Get a TM GBB URGI, I did & never looked back. Cons are the maintenance, cost of mags & cold weather but it’s so much more fun so shoot over electric. Few little upgrades makes it an amazing gun.

My wallet says "no". My back says "no" (maybe 20 years ago!). But my mind says "do it anyway".

Ah yes the Browning. Me firing the Browning. me loosing $10 cause it sucks.

Just watched a bit of "her majesty's secret service", lots of sterling's on show ??

You'd have to take the whole gearbox apart to change the trigger, can be done for sure but depends how confident you are taking the gun right down to components. It also comes with a copy of an early type Geissele Mk16 rail and it has a Geissele style charging handle already, so not sure why you'd change them? You can put on whichever airsoft or real stock you like but obviously it has to have room for your battery. Pistol grip is an easy swap with some screw drivers for any AR AEG grip and there's chinese copies of Magpul pistol grips out there under various names, but of course be sure to refit the motor properly and adjust accordingly.

Ahoy and welcome back. I'm also making a resolution to stop letting mere real life get in the way of daft hedonistic LARPing next year.

Meanwhile I take my stuff out to give it a once over after like 2 months of not using and somehow everything's exploded, set on fire, sold itself on prefired for 30% of what it's worth and exploded again. Lucky for some I guess

Welcome back!

Jesus H effin christ, the rule 5 thingamabob has taken a right pasting tonight, so many noobs that join & immediately post in the classifieds without reading the rules ffs ?

British Forces Collection updated. Now including SBS MC-51SD L101A1 (HK53) L9A1 DS (MK3 hi power) L117A1 (Sig P229) MODEL 603