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Maple Leaf MLC S2 Chassis

Spotted in my local airsoft group; a G&G MP5-A4 with EBB and 7 magazines, 6 midcaps and 1 hicap. Initially it was £80 but when going to test it before buying, the gun is jammed up. It clicks and sounds like the motor is trying to work but the gear box is locked tight apparently. Rear drum sight is damaged and flash hider is missing. Dropped the price to £50. Interestingly, the hop up adjustment is a linear/sliding type. Not seen that before. Going to try and remedy the locked up gearbox over the weekend. Thankfully the gun is easy to strip and i'm sure it uses a standard V2 gearbox which should be simple enough to work on. I found a good video showing a full disassembly of the same gun. Hopefully all the parts are okay however the fire selector was loose so I suspect someone has already been inside it. I'm hoping that they've just got the motor screwed too high and it's stopping the gears spinning which is possible from what i've read. UPDATE: The gun works! I unscrewed the motor all the way and incrementally screwed it back in until it engaged and cycled the gun then fine tuned it a bit more from there however it was still fairly 'whiney'. It's only running on 7.4v lipo so it's slower than what i'm used to but it still sounds poor. I disassembled the gun to find that the base of the gearbox hadn't been closed properly from whoever was in there previously. After opening and inspecting it looks like the gears have (what i'd assume is) normal wear, they don't looked stripped/snapped/chipped or damaged excessively. The tappet plate looks like it's taken some hits (it's plastic) but this is easily fixed, same with the gears. I reassembled the gearbox (even got the case closed properly) and reassembled the gun. It actually sounds less 'whiney' than before so I must have done something right. Will look into getting a new gearset and tappet plate and try my hand at shimming it on payday.

Must. Have. Gustav.

Morning all, hope all are well. Just a quick hello to the group and how i got to where i am, in brief. Started like most, went to a few meets, got hooked then brought my first rif. An S&T M4, which was poo, gearbox was a mess, grease so old it was like concrete. Why not return you might ask, well i enjoy learning, fixing and rebuilding just as much as skirmish. So it began, now there isnt a great deal left from the orignal rif and a large hole in my bank account and apologies ahead, yes i turned the M4 in to a DMR, sorry, i was new and didnt know any better lol. However it is absolutely bad ass. Now i have a resonable collection M249 4 or 5 different M4's M40a5 M9 3 shotguns Highly modded M4 to DMR. The M40a5 was another noob buy, highly modded so snatched it up for £300, only to find it was dog ****, so i have now stripped, repaired, painted and rebuilt. Missing springs, paint in the working parts, just generally an unholy mess. The last missing spring will be installed today and testing begins. Hmmm, i intended that to be shorter ha. Thats me though, stupid purchases but then loads of enjoyment repairing, improving and painting to rebuild and test. Just love that side of it. Thank you for reading. Doc

Hello & welcome! This is certainly the place to find a group of fellow airsoft enthusiasts Buying someone else's modded kit is always a leap into the unknown but as you like teching I expect you secretly quite enjoyed it.

Not according to economists. 😉

My own E&L AKS74 is a pretty solid gun, although you need to look after the externals as they are metal and may rust if you don't . I use a bit of Abbey Gun Oil 35 after a game, and it's survived Cold War games in some pretty awful weather for a few years now. The furniture is all real wood and the selector is crisp, even after use. My gun internals are still stock, and shoot 0.28 and 0.3 bbs perfectly adequately. I bought an E&L AK74M afterwards for a more 90s look, as I really liked the gun. E&L mags are OK, but I find they don't feed to the end to the last bb, which is slightly annoying, and part of the design of the mag. The gun is also weighty, given all the metal. I sometimes run a GP25 with the gun and it's very heavy and unbalanced as a result. I have CYMA guns as well (although not AK74s) and they are also perfectly fine stock guns. I think in the end it'll come down to cost and availability as I think all three versions are pretty good. Anyway here is a pic of my E&L.

Really regretting teaching my dog to play classical music on the piano. All day long it's Bach, Bach, Bach, Bach, Bach Go on then. I'll get it.

Well, they were the only .30 bio BB my local store had in stock, and let me tell you, they are a pain in the ass. It is so fucking hard to spot them in order adjust hop-up. I'll never make that mistake again...

MAS Modele 36. Yes, very disappointed in King Arms; however, I suspect that they are aware of the limited market for the L1A1 and FAL.

If it’s polymer, I’d be tempted to try the dots on it A small drill 3mm or so and a small “dimple” made with a dremmel etc Then fill the dimples with a red enamel paint from humbrol or tamiya You only need to go .5 - 1mm deep

I hear Blacks, Millets and Go Outdoors have started a price war. I think we're in for a winter of discount tents.

Well the JG Works RPK arrived, full metal and wood with EBB. It is quite the weapon at nearly 5kg.. I will get some better pictures but this is it for now.

With just printed markings that have worn away I’d be inclined to leave it But you could go for red & green dots if you wanted a visual reference - which would work but not be ‘real’ Art skills would work to be more realistic. A car type paint would be among the longest to last, but will still be subject to wear

Another successfull spray job. Forend, carry handle and stock were all the same blue polymer as the UMP. Once again, the black was built up with several light coats, with about 20 minutes drying time between. Once the coverage looked right I left it for 24 hours and then gave it a couple of coats of matt laquer. Once I'd sprayed the laquer there were a couple of spots that went cloudy, but letting It all dry for another 24 hours and then buffing it out with a drop of olive oil on a kitchen towel got rid of it entirely.

🤫

There was someone on here a month or two back who dyed a couple of FNX slides. Believe it was pretty straightforward but some care was needed not to have the plastic slide touch the bottom of the pan or whatever container you're heating it in.

Well, it took a while to setup the web store that'd actually do the job and it doesn't look fancy by any means but I got there in the end and it functions and has all the info so that's the main thing. I've not actually announced the release on social media or on my site yet and right now they're only available in the states, but if anyone was interested at all in seeing more info to include the pricing feel free to take a gander. https://thefull9.net/ah-a1/

Oh hai, I'm from the Tabletop Gamers thread, I'm appropriating this meme for the Imperium of Man.