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I got my complete G&P bolt today 1 hour before leaving for my CQB game and so was able to test it. As @AlphaBear mentioned before, the machining is of very high quality. The screw with the C-clip also sits around 1mm away from the bolt instead of flush, so I reckon this is some kind of design decision. Initial thoughts are that it is indeed completely drop-in unlike the Angrygun bolt was for me (dodgy sealing buffer meant shitty firing rate and sticky nozzle). I got a 0.30J increase in power which was unexpected and not entirely welcome since I originally intended to use this bolt for my CQB arena and install the G&P adjustable valve in my stock bolt to use outdoors as a DMR, but it seems like I'll have to figure something else out. I only tested with 0.25g bb's, but I was consistently getting between 98 and 101 m/s, so around 1.28 and 1.32 joules. It was very consistent , I would get 101-102 m/s with a fully filled mag with green gas, and after 10-15 shots, it would settle to around 98-99m/s. Also, I noticed a distinct change in how the gun sounds when firing. I'm pretty sure this bolt is louder the stock MTR bolt, and it has a distinct metallic sound when firing which is really satisfying which the Angrygun bolt definitely didn't have. I wonder if this is due to the roller bolt design? Overall, I'm pretty happy with how it turned out! I'm glad that it worked OOTB and didn't require any fitting or anything. Also interesting to note, the G&P bolt didn't engage my hop up dial like the Angrygun one did (the AG bolt would literally decrease my hop from 60% to 0% in a magazine or two), so I'm staying well away from AG internals for the MWS to be honest.

I think I am going to try a test run with an old WE GBBR barrel I have sitting in my parts bin. It’s pretty long (370mm from memory) so I should get several tries out of it I am fortunate enough to have access to a milling machine so actually cutting the hop window is probably the easiest part of the operation. A couple of passes at right angles to the barrel at the correct depth should do it. I’m more concerned with cutting and fixing the hop rubber as I can see no way of doing it other than by hand with a razor blade a good eye and a very steady hand. I also don’t have any spares kicking around so will need to order a couple specifically for this purpose.

Decided to slap my tracer on my AAP-01 and turn on the “Fun Switch” sorry for wobbly piccie couldn’t see jack till I started to fire

Hopefully this is cheaper than a gym membership:

Don't suppose you fancy copying a sheet tab and filling in the spreadsheet on page 144? And letting us know how you get on?

I doubt this has anything to do with adjustment. You can’t twist the spring, also it would not do anything honestly. I just don’t see what the c clip is for if the whole thing screws in/out.

Mine has arrived, looks good. As soon as the weather improves a bit I'll get it outside to test.

generally these folks can be seen about 20m behind the line yeeting .2's with their hop turned off.

【CUSTOM GBB WORKSHOP】 Beretta M1934 FS 0623 base deep marking, deep 0.3mm custom grip remove paint Handmade black dye detail fix after & before

Sounds good. I'd like to get a spare hop unit so I can try to modify the hop adjustment too.

Ok so after reading some of the comments and having a closer look at the parts laid out in front of me I think I have a plan for an upgraded hop solution. Basically I plan to buy a new barrel (probably a crazy jet) that is at least 30 mm longer than the current stock barrel. I’ll cut it to length and then modify it fit it using the existing fixing. I can then cut a proper hop window in it and glue a bit of hop rubber into the space (basically an R hop), but I might actually use the bit of a ML with the contact patch as I don’t think the tiny brass set screw offers enough travel for a true R-hop to work. The other option being drilling out the hole for the hop adjuster to use a longer set screw, but I’d like to avoid this so I can change it back to stock. I can then glue a 5mm (Ish) square cut from a tin can to the top of the hop to spread the pressure from the brass screw evenly. if it works it will be a big improvement, will be totally reversible and will only cost the price of a barrel and hop rubber. If it doesn’t then I’ll only have wasted £20 ish. I won’t be able to get round to it for a week or two, but I’ll try and take some photos when I do and report back.

Hi, ALL! 👋 Just got my new winter BDU loadout top today, a parka, Czech surplus, what a bargain! 💷😆👍 Can’t wait to test this in the field and wear casually, also can take the thermal layer out, remove the collar and hood, for any occasion! 🔫😎👍 Not easy to get at the moment, but thankfully I bought mine in the UK, without any issues! 🤔 💷GAMBLE💷

New Specna for my wanker gun project

Probably not something you screw in/out with the spring under load. and its a different design nothing is wrong with it if you just can't understand it otherwise we'd all be without cars or modern technology. I'd say do your own digging for information like asking G&P and then make a decision on it.

This is mine out there box so to speak. The circlip isn’t flush with the bolt carrier

Well mine arrived, and out of the box it was utter rubbish. I had the same issue with BBs hooking to the left. It also wouldn’t get though a mag without venting gas and the mag dropped out every other shot. Taking apart the hop and putting it back together seemed to have fixed the hooking to the left issue (there was also way too much hop out of the box, it was over hopping .3g BBs) The mag catch screw was loose and tightening that seems to have fixed the random mag drops. A spray of silicone into the BBU seems to have improved the gas efficiency so it will at least finish a mag. (I also expect this to get better with more use as the piston head swells to a better seal). Is it the best airsoft pistol I have ever had, no it’s a long long way short. Even a bog standard WE Glock will out perform it in every way, however I can’t help but like it, because it is a skirmishable MK3 hi-power and it feels just right. I even like the trigger as it really does feel like a real HP (which is the first RS pistol I learned to shoot with) it has the same slightly long and ‘grindy’ take up which releases the mag safety and then a break like a glass rod. I don’t think it is fair to crono it or test accuracy until it’s broken in a bit, but I expect both to be no more than ok, but fine for a skirmish back-up, that will go awesomely with my MP5 GBBR for that full SAS vibe. As noted above The hop is beyond primitive, so the only replacements are going to be OEM WE Parts. The brass grub screw that applies the hop is also comically tiny, I can see that working its way lose and disappearing into thin air at a skirmish so once the hop is set right I’ll use a pin to dab a tiny blob of thread lock into the edge of the tread in the hope that it will work it’s way down a bit and it is enough to stop it vanishing.