Jump to content

What have you made?


AK47frizzle
This thread is over three months old. Please be sure that your post is appropriate as it will revive this otherwise old (and possibly forgotten) topic.

Recommended Posts

10 hours ago, GothicGhost said:

Quick question, how hard would it be to replicate this 3D printed m4 stock adapter?

 

I would like to have another one at some point, thanks.

 

spacer.png

spacer.png

spacer.png

 

That is not difficult but is not going to be very strong. Have you used it yet? The main load is in it's weakest axis (i.e. between the layers). Drop the gun on it's stock and I can see that snapping very easily.

 

3D printing is good for a lot of things but you need to choose carefully where you use it. Is there no commercial version you could buy? I would expect it to not be much mire than the cost of a 3D print.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

51 minutes ago, Piman said:

That is not difficult but is not going to be very strong. Have you used it yet? The main load is in it's weakest axis (i.e. between the layers). Drop the gun on it's stock and I can see that snapping very easily.

 

3D printing is good for a lot of things but you need to choose carefully where you use it. Is there no commercial version you could buy? I would expect it to not be much mire than the cost of a 3D print.

 

It's for a hi-capa 3D printed carbine and I understand the stock adapater the weakpoint of the kit if I drop or something so I wanted to have some few spare to just replace it if that ever happens :D

 

What if the hole was more filled in to make it stronger and the bolt sits on the outside of the adapter.

Thank you any advice.

IMG_20210323_103626584.jpg

v1.jpg

IMG_20210323_103658285.jpg

IMG_20210323_103646877.jpg

IMG_20210323_103527671.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Adolf Hamster said:

looking at that, might be better to print it on it's side so the bolt holes are going through the layers too?

Agreed, that would make it stronger in the important directions but is a horrible print with supports. You can see it has been design to be printed the way it is.

 

14 minutes ago, GothicGhost said:

 

How do you think something like this to print?

I am not quite sure I understand the question but this is a simple 3D print in its current orientation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporters
1 hour ago, Piman said:

Agreed, that would make it stronger in the important directions but is a horrible print with supports. You can see it has been design to be printed the way it is.

 

yeah, question between convenience or performance i guess.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Piman said:

Agreed, that would make it stronger in the important directions but is a horrible print with supports. You can see it has been design to be printed the way it is.

 

I am not quite sure I understand the question but this is a simple 3D print in its current orientation.

Sorry I meant how much would something like the stock adapter cost to make?

 

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, GothicGhost said:

Sorry I meant how much would something like the stock adapter cost to make?

 

Thanks.

If you could find a friend with a printer it would be about £1 in material and some postage. I would offer if I weren't waiting on a replacement control board from china. Commercial printing can be quite expensive as it is the time on the machine. Something like that won't take too long so I would hope £20-30. However prices vary wildly depending on how 'professional' the printing service is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you I really need to buy myself a 3D printer even a small one for bits like this.

 

Not sure the wife would go for it 😁🤣😂

Edited by GothicGhost
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, since I had a few springs lying around I finally decided to making a spring power measuring device...

 

DSCN2402.thumb.JPG.be7d5f464b7f470b92673464fb2f4cec.JPG

Using a luggage scale you hold and pull on the orange hose fitting up to the orange line (piston length).  The scale holds the measurement so you can read it when it beeps.

 

Takes a few goes to get an average reading but I compared readings of known spring strengths with a friend who uses a slightly different method and our readings do correlate.

I will try to find an M10 bolt that only has threading at the top to make the pull smoother.

 

Edited by EDcase
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a quick question with regards mollee spacing

 

Do the horizontal always have a equal spec between each of the fixings or can they be stacked up?

 

 

 

Edited by MiK
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporters
5 hours ago, MiK said:

Just a quick question with regards mollee spacing

 

Do the horizontal always have a equal spec between each of the fixings or can they be stacked up?

 

PALS:
PALS_webbing_Size.png

Tbh I'm not sure I 100% understand the question but all spacings and dimensions should always be equal and the same.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, GenuineGerman said:

Cut this on our Waterjet today, so didn’t really make anything just drew it up. 10mm MS, now to keep it like that or do something with it 🤔

7F9E7E1A-E710-4D93-AC41-B4C6A95CD382.jpeg

Bit weighty for a walk hanging.lol

🙂

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporters
10 hours ago, TheFull9 said:

 

PALS:
PALS_webbing_Size.png

Tbh I'm not sure I 100% understand the question but all spacings and dimensions should always be equal and the same.

Glad I’m not the only one 😉👍

11 hours ago, GenuineGerman said:

Cut this on our Waterjet today, so didn’t really make anything just drew it up. 10mm MS, now to keep it like that or do something with it 🤔

7F9E7E1A-E710-4D93-AC41-B4C6A95CD382.jpeg

Definitely keep as is , got the whole cool Rammstein ‘vibe’ about it !  with perhaps a few passes of matte clear coat to stop the rust ? 🤔

Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, Druid799 said:

Definitely keep as is , got the whole cool Rammstein ‘vibe’ about it !  with perhaps a few passes of matte clear coat to stop the rust ? 🤔

Great idea, think I will do that 🙂 cheers 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

@TheFull9 Cheers matey, I thought as much but I’ve seen on tinterweb some plate carriers that don’t have a gap between the strips - not counting the laser cut panels - cuts down on the crafting by a third \o/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporters
3 minutes ago, MiK said:

@TheFull9 Cheers matey, I thought as much but I’ve seen on tinterweb some plate carriers that don’t have a gap between the strips - not counting the laser cut panels - cuts down on the crafting by a third \o/

 

i presume having no spacing is simply to allow you to mount things up/down in finer increments depending on taste.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Supporters
3 minutes ago, MiK said:

@Adolf Hamster Stop it!!! Don’t cause me a stressing by talking of aesthetics/taste  :P

 

i'm assuming from the context you're making something with molle yourself, so the ability to move a pouch up/down is probably not relevant given you're gonna be putting the strips where you want them anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This thread is over three months old. Please be sure that your post is appropriate as it will revive this otherwise old (and possibly forgotten) topic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...