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THE TM MWS thread


Wo1f

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Seems plausible. To be honest, I thought this was for the GM mags, which look to be a bit of a faff to break down 😆

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Tokyo Marui MWS SOCOM URG-I Build

 

Having started purchasing parts in February, having had some time off last week, I finally got round to building her.

 

Parts list:

 

·        Tokyo Marui MWS M4A1 Carbine base

·        HAO Mk16 13.5” handguard

·        HAO SOCOM Daniel Defense 14.5” outer barrel

·        HAO Surefire 4-prong flash hider

·        HAO Geiselle low profile gas block

·        HAO Geiselle Ultra Precision trigger guard

·        HAO Geiselle Super Precision 1.93” scope mount

·        HAO SF 556 SOCOM suppressor (hardcore version)

·        Angry Gun Geiselle Airborne Charging Handle

·        Magpul K2+ grip

·        Magpul M-LOK hand stop

·        Magpul SL Stock

·        Magpul BAD lever

·        BavTac Magic Hop Nub

·        Bavtac Titanium Zet Plate

·        BavTac 140% nozzle return spring

·        Vortex Crossfire II 1-4x 24 scope

·        WADSN metal NGAL

·        Element Surefire M600C Scout light

·        Blue Force Gear padded VCAS (Olive Drab)

·        Blue Force Gear QD sling swivel x2

 

The build took a bit longer than I anticipated for a couple of reasons, mainly removing the trigger box to install the BavTac Zet plate. What an absolute bastard to remove and it took an age. In the process I also managed to dislodge one of the sear springs, so I had to open the trigger box to re-seat it.

 

Fitting the HAO rail was more troublesome than I remember when I installed the 9.3” version. Getting one of the bolts to slide through the groove on the barrel nut wasn’t as slick this time.

 

The rest of the externals were fine, standfast the trigger guard, which needed material removing to fir properly. This was slightly annoying/disappointing as HAO are usually ninjas with their products. Anyway, a few minutes filing got it fitted nice and flush.

 

Apart from the Zet plate, hop nub and nozzle return spring, the gun has stock internals.

 

Out of the box, on ASG Ultrair, the gun was pinging .28s out to 60m at around 1.1j, with the effective range being around 50-55m.

 

Range and power-wise, it’s still in the same ballpark as out of the box, with the GM Pmags giving a 5-8 fps increase, adding barely noticeable increase to the power output. Using heavier ammo though, wow! Using .32s it was getting to the 70m mark with loads of adjustment left on the hop.

 

However, accuracy was all over the place, with BBs pinging every which way with no consistency. Tearing the front end down again, the hop rubber and hop chamber were covered in silicon oil. Rookie mistake! Hoping that’s solved it because when they flew straight it was awesome.

 

So, what’s good and what’s bad about the latest addition to my arsenal? The good; well, it’s an MWS! It works and works and works. The BavTac Zet plate is awesome, with the bolt catching every time, even with the Guns Modify Pmags, and the MHN is a serious contender for the SixG brass nub. The finished gun, although fairly commonplace, also looks incredible IMHO.

 

The bad? Apart from the hop/silicon debacle, not much more than the suppressor really. I made a huge mistake getting the hardcore version. It’s beautifully finished and the QD system is great, compared with the Angry Gun version I have. It’s just too damned heavy though at 525g. I really should have bought the standard version.

 

How I’ll feel lugging this around an airsoft field tomorrow I don’t know, but I’m chuffed with the result!

 

 

 

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So, you know how you've got to be an absolute tool to take out the BCG, but leave your buffer and spring in, then close the receiver? 

 

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1 minute ago, C-Diddy said:

So, you know how you've got to be an absolute tool to take out the BCG, but leave your buffer and spring in, then close the receiver? 

 

I have done this more times than I wish to admit...

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On 01/10/2023 at 21:24, Impulse said:

 

I have done this more times than I wish to admit...

Mate, I've done it once before and thought "Christ, that's a ballache to sort..won't be doing that again!"

 

The long boi I posted above was still not behaving, so I swapped the optic out onto the shorty, and headed to the range. Only then I noticed my charging handle was missing...then I realised why 🙄

 

I've still no idea why I removed the bolt in the first place. I'd just chronoed ffs! 

 

**edit** Joy of joys!!! Instead of having to unscrew the buffer like I did last time, using an allen key to push the buffer back into place worked a treat!  

Edited by C-Diddy
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Every time I do it, I immediately think "oh why the hell did I do this I know better..." literally as I'm snapping it shut.

 

And yeah, allen key pushing it back into place is an easy fix for it.

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On 01/10/2023 at 21:22, C-Diddy said:

So, you know how you've got to be an absolute tool to take out the BCG, but leave your buffer and spring in, then close the receiver? 

 

 

Certainly done that a few times! Thankfully been a while since the last time. Think I've remembered now... touch wood. 

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Need to drop some FPS? Superglue and baking powder on the back of the rocket valve will knock some power off. Mine went from 290 down to 240fps on a 0.32g

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In my ongoing obsession to take a perfectly good, functioning gun, and see just how many ways I can interfere with its fantastic stock performance,  let's talk bolts, buffers and nubs.

 

When I say bolts, I mean bolt weights. I'm a big fan of the BavTac MWS parts and notice he has a brass bolt weight, and is working on a titanium version too.

 

Jaeger Precision also has new bolt weights, in stainless and titanium. Any thoughts, experiences, recommendations or warnings with changing bolt weights? BTW, I'm not the sort of person after 'realistic' recoil or kick. Anyone who's shot 5.56 knows the recoil is minimal anyway.

 

With buffers, I've recently bought but not fitted the GM high tenacity polymer buffer. I plan on running higher power gas during the winter, so thought it best to have a spare. Again, thoughts, recommendations etc.

 

Finally, nubs. I've used stock, SixG brass and BavTac MHN. All work well, but the stock limits BB weight to .28, possibly .3s in my experience. Anyone used the Jaeger Titan nub?

 

 

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2 hours ago, C-Diddy said:

Finally, nubs. I've used stock, SixG brass and BavTac MHN. All work well, but the stock limits BB weight to .28, possibly .3s in my experience. Anyone used the Jaeger Titan nub?

 

 

 

I'm using it in my build at the moment and it works very well with a ML MR hop rubber, but was awful with an autobot rubber.

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Re bolt weight, it’s all relative to buffer spring strength, and how real you want your fake gun to feel.

 

Honestly a heavier bolt has zero performance benefits.

You using more gas, slowing the cycle rate and wearing things faster.

 

Lightweight bolt is the way to go, paired with correct buffer spring


The only true hop upgrade from SixG Super Nub is Rhop

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I have settled on the stock TM bolt with:

 

HAO steel bolt end, AG alu buffer and 110% buffer spring - this is great in warm weather, still lets me get 70+ shots from a mag and gives a nice kick.

 

Winter set up is the stock bolt end, stock plastic buffer and G&P buffer spring (comparable to TM stock) - this gets maximum from the gas efficiency without removing all feedback and turning it into a glorified NGRS with extra steps.

 

Unless you have shares in propane manufacturers I would steer clear of AG steel buffer and / or 130% buffer spring.

It still isn’t close to the feel of a 5.56 M4 plus you will never have the “fun” of the 10” barrel fireball 😂

 

My MWS came with the Laylax hop arm with inbuilt nub so not played about with other options as happy with it. Think there is a ML MR hop in there at the moment, stock TM and Modify Tan are both good.

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Appreciate the responses fellas, thank you.

 

For no other reason than curiosity, my futures purchases are likely to be:

 

Jaeger Titan nub

Jaeger bolt weight set

SixG HSB (they in stock @Davegolf?)

 

and possibly the HAO Geissele bolt and steel weight.

 

I blame @SSPKalientirely for sparking this curiosity, and both hate and thank him in equal measures 😂

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Silent fill valve o-rings removed and fill tubes replaced with 7mm ID stainless steel tube, 50mm length from the brass threads. This is a bit less than stock but still gives a good space for the gas to fill above the liquid.

 

The stainless tube is a snug push fit over the alu tube so with some grease and percussive maintenance it goes on and stays on 👍

 

I filled the mag with ASG beige gas until it spluttered, then tilted and got another 1s worth of fill. Bearing in mind it is quite cool today I was able to fire 140 shots and still have it lock back, the mag was pretty cold by then so I popped it in my pocket for 30sec while I got some BBs and turned on the chrono. It was putting out 230fps on 0.32g and locked back after the 14 shots I fired. Pretty damn amazing!

 

Right, beer o’clock 🍺


 “Tell me you know nothing about GBBRs, without telling me you know nothing about GBBRs” 😂

IMG_0081.jpeg

Edited by SSPKali
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  • 4 weeks later...

I'm about to throw my beloved MWS L119A2 out of the window.

 

This wee monster (HAO kit) had been uber reliable but somehow it's now chopping BBs, double feeding and the bolt jams around 2cm to the rear when cocking, whether a mag is present or not.

I've fiddled with the buffer tube, I've stripped and cleaned but I can't get the problems to go away. If anyone has any good ideas, I'd love to hear them!

 

Thanks!

 

 

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Thanks dude - Nothing obvious, sadly. The problems started with a loose buffer tube but now seem to have expanded. I'll see about taking it entirely to pieces tomorrow, trigger mech and everything and then working back from there. It's annoying because it was super reliable!

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Is there any damage to the front of the nozzle? Sometimes the square bit at the front of the bolt bends upwards which causes jams.

 

You can gently heat it and bend it back down if this has happened.

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On 12/11/2023 at 13:39, Danhc92 said:

Is there any damage to the front of the nozzle? Sometimes the square bit at the front of the bolt bends upwards which causes jams.

 

You can gently heat it and bend it back down if this has happened.

Had this happen to me, fix is as mentioned but if it still does it with no mag then I'd assume it's a different problem?

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