Sitting Duck

Got a similar headache too SS 2 teeth, ergh & uhm about ported/full cylinder thought wtf shortstroke 2 teeth it will be fine to lift heavier .25 or .28's went with a full cylinder as it was SS 2 anyway using a 407mm tbb.... bad idea - 390fps using tbb 407 prommy flat hop 355-360 on short stock 300mm barrel crappy old dirty G&G 357mm & G&G plastic hop gives 344fps but shoots like crap (if I clean barrel or change out hop I know I'm gonna be over) really don't wanna rip her open - again but I know I gotta full cylinder and outstanding piston seal has screwed me over stock spring was easy to fit in so don't think it is a true 115/120 spring (even left it 95% cocked overnight but hardly any drop this morning) poxy f*cking toy guns sorry moaning and derail your thread but I feel ya pain n wtf frustration

Oh soz thought the tbb was fitted to an old gun and new bucking to replace old bucking on old stock barrel etc..... Wow that is a mofo jump, was ya stock barrel dirty or something ? 50fps is a mofo jump just from tbb barrel according to LWA spec stock is about 215mm vs 300mm but a 50fps is a big jump all the same

ahhhh - bummer on that spring tester gun idea....... try an o-ring on there first tbh 50 is a big jump - normally 15-20 is a tbb increase I'm lead to believe I'm guessing you probably fitted a new hop bucking so either the old bucking was a bit worn or maybe not seated/sealing properly M100's vary lots - often a bit extra & 350 is obtainable with decent seals (could have a m105 in there perhaps to allow for so-so stock seals) now with good bucking seal & tbb you are up to 380 try an o-ring if you can but otherwise you may have to go back to old barrel (clean/polish it and you probably get close to 350fps)

ok - how about this...... get a 9mm x 7mm (1mm thick) o-ring place this around the hop at the gearbox end (hop outer diameter is about 10-11mm so stretch o-ring onto hop/nozzle entry) this will push the hop a minor minor smidge forward so you lose a whisper of seal though to be honest I don't think you will lose 30fps but maybe somewhere near that The important thing is make sure she feeds - which she should do, (its when you push hop back to gearbox more the nozzle may not fully clear) see if she feeds and fps drops a little if all else fails - remove o-ring and she should be back to 380fps if you get her down to 355 then pre-cock spring etc...... try to get a thin o-ring as possible - maybe an o-ring used to steady inner barrel you don't want a mega thick one or mags may not clip in ok or fps drops to 150fps if nozzle/bucking seal is pi$$ poor worth a shot before you rip her open or power up ya tools you can also place some tape around front of box to do the same thing but if you got a thin o-ring like sometimes found on tbb - use that as its easier Problem with trimming up barrel is you don't know how much you gotta cut it and you could end up with a very very short barrel as little air is being lost on tbb long or short (you could end up with a 229 or less barrel and may not be ideal for gun you was hoping it was gonna be)

Use your APS UAR's quick change box to test out a milder spring's fps get lowest one you can find around..... open hot box up, test spring in UAR & compare with possible lower spring then refit best spring back into box other options: AoE corrected - that may lose 10fps perhaps replace bearing spring guide with std spring guide - maybe 15fps lose bearing on piston head ??? the above 3 are questions or examples but tbh aoe is a wise idea could chop off couple of coils from a spring could short stroke it a couple of teeth need to get her down to about 355 or less if a smidge over leave it pre-cocked overnight main thing if barrel is decent & hop is working & feeding well then leave it as is then go to spring/gearbox problem

That is quite a jump, but if you cut it you could balls it up

only if you are dumb ar$e to think..... ooh that looks a little puffy (was an old brand X lipo btw not a pukka zippy/turnigy) I'll let a bit of air out of that plastic wrapping with this pin........... FIZZZZ FIZZZZZ SPARK SPARK FIZZLE FIZZLE SPARK SPARK...... WTF !!!!! - drops it in the hall....... WOOOOOOOOOOFFFFFFFFFF - FLAMES N $HIT OPEN THE DOOR - OPEN THE F*CKING DOOOORRRRRRR !!!!!! BOOOT - phew it went out perfectly, could of clipped the frame and rebounded into front room Yeah - as far as dumb ar$e things I've done this year or two - that has gotta be in top 3 Decent brands, a little puffy is ok but don't think of maybe letting air out I own up to being a massive bell-end - more than usual as a stark warning of the dangers of being a dick with lipo's or really any battery they are safe - as long as you don't attempt to try voodoo on them Honest, they are fine as long as you don't f*ck about with them (stupidly funny now but absolutely $hit myself, missus screaming, smoke alarm going nutz, scorched carpet - yeah not one of best ideas) THIS IS A BIG BANG VIDEO - like they said they never seen one go like that mine fizzed and sparked for about 5-10 secs then a modest fire about 12 to 18 inches high but this is what I mean don't be a dick with lipo's:

Oooooh just noticed something interesting............... these B6 chargers genuine and fake ones plus Turnigy chargers seem to come with XT60 charge leads (bananna plug from B6 to XT60 plug) so you WILL need that adapter thingy majig: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__43762__MEGA_ADAPTER_Connect_almost_anything_to_anything_US_Warehouse_.html coz it won't have the male deans charge lead but a XT60 type my snidey clone one came with a male deans charge lead plus female deans to others adapter leads (the clones voltage is not always as accurate as a genuine B6 btw but on one of mine if was 0.015v lower - I can live with that) weird that I got all deans leads etc.. but others gen/fake may ship with XT leads well I guess it is RC shop and XT connectors are quite popular for RC's but never thought of this until I was looking at leads n stuff supplied on the AC versions soz best double/triple check on the EXACT leads you get in the box - maybe get the charge anything lead set ignore my specs of what leads came with mine as I bought it from fleabay along with some universal laptop chargers (does the job cheaply but then that is me all over)

oh right - well did say about psu needed but they do one with a built in psu - B6 AC mofo..... http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__53900__IMAX_B6_AC_Charger_Discharger_1_6_Cells_GENUINE_AU_plug_.html?strSearch=b6%20ac http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__58285__IMAX_B6AC_V2_Professional_Balance_Charger_Discharger.html just a transformer plopped inside the bigger case more money but I guess if the transformer craps out you can still use a seperate psu like the normal B6 heck even I guess a car cigarette lighter 12v power lead to charge batteries whilst driving to game

eh ??? http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__36905__IMAX_B6_50W_5A_Charger_Discharger_1_6_Cells_GENUINE_US_Warehouse_.html top right window of main pic shows a bunch of wires n bits n bobs....... croc leads - so should have the psu connector if needed watch video and box has a flap with bits bobs leads in there I'm 99.999% sure (they show you difference in clone vs genuine ones etc...) as for getting a deans - small tamiya adapter, yup should be able to get one off the shelf (should be a female deans to uhmm ergh - damn not used tamiya for a while so not gonna say for deffo which adapter is required) maybe this would charge most batteries if you aren't confident in knocking something up yourself: http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/__43762__MEGA_ADAPTER_Connect_almost_anything_to_anything_US_Warehouse_.html so the B6 should then charge almost anything with tamiya xt60 deans etc.... and it charges lipo's, LiFe's & old skool nimah's etc..... (read manual/youtube guides for selecting correct battery type etc) mofo charger at a good decent price - numerous others paid more money and got clone B6's instead (I paid £10 for my clones but thought gen B6's were like nearly £30 or more, would of got gen B6's if I'd known better) Actually it still ain't as bad as me buying a smart nimah charger & 2 x 8.4v 1600mah old skool batteries when I first started at about £16:99 a pop x 3 plus shipping - over £50 gone :blink: :blink:

You can knock up an adapter quite easily as you said The B6 comes with a few leads - or my clone B6 did.... You get a bannana connectors to male deans lead that does the charging to deans battery and the lipo's balance lead goes into the same side of B6 (right side) On the other side (right) you got what I think is a 2.5mm / 5.5mm socket for psu..... (centre of psu jack is positive polarity btw - but like most electronic stuff if unsure get a nerdy tech to check polarity first) On mine I got a 2.5/5.5 lead with crocodile connector leads that can be used/spliced for a psu input (if say a 12v to 18v psu's connector isn't correct one) Plus I got a few other leads with female deans connectors on them to plug on the male charging lead These can be spliced and used for tamiya adapter or just ripped off and fitted to a couple of lipo batteries if needed These should be supplied - or failing that a lead can be bought or knocked very easily Any splicing/adapters should be done properly or well insulated with little connecting blocks blah blah blah Not rocket science - just easy basic common sense like most stuff (says the guy who sets out to puncture lipo's and wonders why his hall is on fire - seriously don't be that stupid) If unsure get a geeky m8 to help check it all over - better safe than sorry B6 charges them lipo's through the deans connectors and even at a modest 1A charge it charges much quicker than the basic cheaper chargers that charge through just the thin balance connector (kinda understandable when you compare the difference in wire thickness for charging)

You don't need to rewire the gun - just cut off tamiya & fit deans on the present wiring...... (if at any point you rewire later on - you can desolder the gun's connector & fit to 16awg rewiring) Male connector on gun, positive is the "top" of T (some connectors do have a " + " marked on them) Female on battery - see Google & YouTube for more info/clarification yup you could fit any end you wish but may as well follow the standard wiring spec on the connectors (in case you get a new battery pre-wired with deans already) I'm no soldering mofo guru, done bits n bobs & repairs on consoles/toys/electronics in the past I'm ok but deffo not what I'd call great when I've seen some people who do rework & stuff decent solder and maybe flux really helps - cheap $hit solder from Poundland/Dollar Tree is not ideal

ahem - deans is best if you can solder Solder in kitchen where it should be more solder or grilled cripy bacon sandwich friendly ??? loads of guides on you tube - BUT ONE WIRE AT A TIME !!!! cut both and you will see what a punch them lipo's can privide - BANG !!!!! cut 1 wire (fit shrink wrap) solder - when done and insulated move onto second one At a push if mini vice/helping hands ain't available...... push both connectors together, tape to worktop to keep deans steady etc... scratch the connector a bit to key it up, if possible use some flux but decent solder I reckon deans offer a 10% increase over small tamiya (when rewired fully and fetted this goes up to about 15% I have found) to use lipo's on small tamiya is kinda like driving along motorway/freeway in 4th gear instead of 5th yeah you can stay in 4th but wiser to move up a gear if possible 7.4v 20c to 25c on stock guns 11.1v is gonna push a stock gun a bit boring maths bit coming up....... stock gun firing at say 13 or 14ish on small tamiya - ok say 13.5rps on 7.4v deans it and you could get another round or nearly 15rps on 7.4v now chuck in 11.1v and that is another 3.7v cell so a 50% increase = 22 or 22.5rps quite an increase but long term you may get...... carbon build up on trigger piston failure from pick up tooth pulling off (most stock pistons are plastic with 1 to 3 metal teeth) little bit more wear but should be ok - though bearings might start to fail quicker than bushings Now you could say wtf - and go for 11.1v and look to rebuild stuff as n when However - this 15 or 22.5rps is a ROUGH GUIDE on stock ferrite motors pushing 13-ish out of box you could have a neodym motor that gives a bit more kick in that vfc Rule of thumb see what it fires like on 7.4v first then add on 50% if thinking of 11.1v but for us lot in UK with a 350fps limit 25rps onwards with a m100/105 and guns may start to overrun or double cycle - fire 2 shots sometimes on semi Not that are near that but 30rps & risk of Pre Engagement may start appearing BUT - being USA your gun may have a m110 or m120 spring in there so some of the above stats and warnings may not apply just yet Though 11.1v is really gonna need some tweaks like mosfet AoE etc in the long term of things Phew

DEANS !!!!!!

plastic or polymer aeg's are about 2 to 2.5kg all metal are "about" 4kg there was a post about gun weights then somebody posted about 7kg for a mofo m249 with box mag stamina - well depends on site and your own play style A lot of games involves careful (quick) evaluation, a bit of sprinting (you sprint to cover and use it - well that is the theory) but most succesful tactics is involving just pure clever sneaky stealth or WTF - LETS JUST 'AVE SOME - though this is really for the time based games with unlimited re-spawn for attacking side just get playing - you will soon knock yourself into or in my case out of shape

Genuine B6 charger as said at beginning Well impressed with my clone one and tbh the price HobbyKing do them for you may as well get a gen B6 (I found out what a good price they offer AFTER I bought my snide ones) Charges quick - even at a modest charge setting Them slow cheapo ones I used before will be included on any future gun sales (if I can bare to part with my toys - no they are mine for keeps, always hated getting rid of my stuff but I'm hoarding way way too much) anyway - back on track - Genuine B6 is what you want

3cm wide that is the stock tube itself It is the two tubes ya need to measure INTERNALLY They might be tight 17mm round tubes on G&G or bigger 22mm square inside like on cyma n D-Boys M4 Well that is what I recently discovered They are not all the same size INTERNALLY Poke a pen stick or something down the tubes and you will get a 140mm maybe but remember it may taper a bit so about 125mm or 5 inch to allow room for wires I would be surprised if you have 30mm or 3cm internal space in them 2 crane tubes coz that is quite big Have been wrong before but if you got 2 x 30mm size tubes you will have loads of options getting a 25x25x125 stick in each of them 2 tubes Which would mean a biggy mah/C rating 7.4v very easily If not then hopefully you might have say 22mm square/round tubes to give you some options As always really measure battery space carefully Take off a couple mm to be sure it fits in ok

That's the scientific bit - lol yup stock aeg's pull what Samurai says, tested an 330fps stock AK and got about 11.5amps (stock everything but with deans if that makes a minor difference to resistance) my tweaked one pulled 26amps on 7.4v (edit no need for crap info nobody cares about) reshimmed (again) and got it pulling 24.5amp through a meter so quite pleased (sounds great too - just hope it don't break (again)) 20c min if 25c is not an easy option Oh if it says 15c - 25c, take it as 15c not a 20c rating I'm lead to believe if it was a 20c it would state 20c on it Your gun can handle a 20c or 25c 7.4v lipo it is when you just chuck in a higher torque/speed neodym motor and try running 11.1v THAT is when things start happening like PE or ripping the back off piston if AoE not corrected etc.... (yeah I have broke loads by not following all the guides thinking it will be fine to take the pi$$ - it won't last going real nutz) but a lipo battery 7.4v will come off charge @ 8.4v and be fine for ya gun without a fuss as is just leave it there for now and further stuff as n when it needs/breaks

short stubby: http://www.evike.com/products/27100/ full or large fixed stock: http://www.evike.com/products/28751/ (get ya lunch in that mofo) me personally find them both either a tad too short or too long - especially the full fixed stock Duck jnr likes the stubby as he ADS with it pulled close into him - others like me wish for a medium full stock in between There is NO ADJUSTMENT - what you see is what you get Now don't follow my lead as is.... Yes they are ok on short to medium length M4's and some snipers or SR25 can have the full stock on but it might not be perfectly 101% ergonomic for others that need that smidge of personal adjustment in their stock some guns it looks ok on others it may look odd or out of place coz it just don't go or look 101% right Not that really bothers me it is more about just being able to fit a cheaper higher spec/capacity battery in me toys Your gun could have come with a folding or mofo type stock You really need to post a pic coz a stubby could alter the look a bit More importantly - as it has a crane on there you need to check a few things.... Does the stock tube come off or is it like some guns that have the stock tube as a single piece bolted on the back Yes you got wires running through it but does the stock tube actually fit onto the mount or an all in one mount (think some APS m4 stock ak's have an all-in-one tube/mount) probably seperate but you gotta check first...... remove battery of course remove carefully the crane stock - then you should see say a phillips screw holding the tube onto the rear of receiver/mount if this can slide off you should be left with a short tube with 2 guides etc.. like a normal M4 etc..... What you need to decide is is it gonna look ok-ish or will you care ? Some stocks on some guns are a main talking point and can really make a gun stand out Alas a number of sexy stocks are not that great for battery space or cost a friggin' bomb a stubby M4 will allow you to use cheap batteries of various sizes/specs I have the 25c 7.4v & 11.1v Zippy Compacts 2200mah and could fit in mental 60c's http://www.hobbyking.co.uk/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=73737 the 2700mah is a tad too long though with thick wires n fet in there - well It can go but requires a bit of modding to rear of receiver which I don't advise unless you are a freak like me But make no mistake it won't look as sexy as some of them lovely stocks with stock tube battery space or very little else room But then if you wanna use block batteries in M4's like Mp5's n G36's and some rear wired AK's Then you gotta weigh up the pro's n cons Check first what size ya crane stock has in its tubes Check also if your stock tube can deffo be removed or you won't get a fixed stock on there

You might have to use a 20c at a push depends on choices due to size dimensions of tube/battery space and just what you can actually get hold of easily Thin nimah's are about 18mm to 19mm in diameter Unless you got the jumbo mofo ones Many stick types are 18diameter See wtf you got in the stock and what your options are 20c is deffo better than a lame 15c

Burst rate Although it has 7.4v or up to a Max 8.4v fresh off charge It's kinda like how much zest or response it has the moment you pull the trigger.... 15c is maybe too low imho, maybe a lame stock gun but nahhh if you are buying new n got options of more zest 20c absolute min on a slightly tweaked gun 25c if possible but 20c if options are limited 35c is for whippy zippy tweaked setups And some you nutters that seek ultra trigger response go for like crazy 45-60c $hit. ... Jeez 35c Max for me tops I find When used a 25c n high speed motor I got a bit more overspin @say 26rps 20c brought it down just under 24 with next to no overspin (Yeah I need to short stroke on a 110 spring really) But there was a small difference it seemed to me

Have a butcher's around, somewhere I saw on some Philippines airsoft site about the avacado burst Either it worked with a basic 3034 or It didn't -lol Yeah I know that helps a lot but saw something but can't for life of me was it a yey or ney outcome Think the burst stuff was something to do with a Philippines guy programmer. No I wasn't look for a new bride or odd lady boy site But something about a Philippines AIRSOFT site n burst wizards If you end up on a totally different site do not blame moi

Wait you got a bells n whistle fet already ?? Then if its programmable then set it to one shot burst

Burst fet one of them plug in ones for quick fix Lock burst to single shot perhaps ? Actually might have one them crappy avacado burst bollox things around - small tamiya that might work Ask around or have a Google n see if it might work If so his a shout and maybe a fiver if it does the job in the end

Have ya got a picture of this ??? should of had a folding stock & peq box me thinks looking around a crane stock don't do this justice me thinks but hey I like G&G - so what do I know ??? anyway if you got it for a good price and ya happy then wtf in the end