MrTea

It definitely is. You can just about see the DE emblem on the side of the receiver.

So, I haven't shared this yet despite having it sat around for a few months. For context this was a boneyard A&K Masada/ACR. When I got it, the exterior of the rifle was scuffed, chipped and dented beyond belief and the previous owner had even super glued rails to the handguard. Instead of fixing the ambi fire selector properly, they had also super glued the fire selector on which I've since fixed. Since it was already destroyed externally I decided to go the absolute opposite way of what I normally go for, so I went with the brightest colours I could think of. Is it cursed? I think I actually prefer it to the standard look of most of my RIFs.

To throw something else cheap into the mix. I've got a Redwin Torero 1-6x24 and the glass quality is very similar to, if not better than (imo), the VisionKing 1.25-5x. It's $103 (right now on their own site) with a one-piece mount and you can pick from two different reticule choices. I haven't actually used the optic in anger yet as I still haven't finished my DMR build in favour of turning around some boneyard items... 5 months ago. I should really get on that.

TTI make a TDC unit that includes a drilling guide, drill bit, hop unit (that's very similar to the Action Army one) and an external hop adjustment wheel for about the same price as the Action Army hop unit. Generally it's around £50. As for ParHunter, if it's of any interest to you; AirsoftWorld are selling the Action Army T11 for £110. If i'm not mistaken, it comes standard with a 90 degree trigger which are pretty pricey on their own. Buying cheaper and upgrading could be worth a look.

Aren't they expensive? I have also read online that the stock one is good and the upgrade would be as minimal as changing the barrel. I built a mk18 style AEG from a Specna Arms Core 04 and still run the standard blue plastic hop unit in it to this day and that AEG has some good range on it. The hop unit very rarely ever needs changing unless it's adjusting itself when in use. Changing the bucking & nub is all you need to do - I mostly always use Macaron 60 degree and the Omega nub. Inner barrels are subject to a lot of arguments. Some claim that the stock brass are fine and probably just need a quick polishing. Some inner barrels are cheap enough that you can buy one and see if theres much difference. AK2M4 has his own range of inner barrels that appear to have a massively better polish/finish than the similarly priced ZCI offering.

True. I was fixing an ARP556 where a ETU++ worked and cured the issues it was having until the G&G trigger board itself decided to crap out and just stop working entirely. Replaced the lot with a Hybrid V2 in the end. Dreading the moment when my L85 decides to do the same.

The L85 Cylinder head is non-standard so it's hard to find aftermarket/upgrade ones. Here's a link to, what I believe is, a direct replacement should you ever need it.

M110 will take you over the limit i've found in my L85. I got right on the 340-345 mark using a M105 spring from AK2M4 which leaves some room for a sensitive chrono however, you need to diagnose your problem first. I've had guns shooting at 280fps and still firing BBs the distance of my indoors arena. Diagnose and fix the poor performance first then start boosting performance.

Holy. What a thread to read through. I didn't expect this level of entertainment. Given the way the guy has conducted themselves, I'd never play at a field they had any influence on.

I'd suggest avoiding helmets that only offer one size based purely on my sample size of 1. I had an Emersongear one and it didn't fit well, it got uncomfortable after an hour or two. I swapped to an 'FMA FAST SF Tactical Helmet' which has multiple size options and the padding/lining is way way better and I can wear it for hours on end with no issue. Helmets always get warm/hot, you can't escape that even with vents/holes in the top.

In top right corner, click your name and it's the second to bottom option.

I agree with the underarm only and no higher that waist height. It's a big ol chunk of metal so it's still gonna suck if you kneecap someone with it, nevermind anywhere else. I've never used my impact BFGs (or any BFGs) outdoors for fear of losing it. Never had one not go off when indoors with the exception of dud blanks.

Yeah, Ebay has removed that listing. You'd be best off posting more info here. Must admit, i'd be interested in testing these. Was very happy with the 12g large flashbangs I got from you. Will be interesting to see how much of a flash the 9mm can produce.

Hi all. I have someone interested in buying my custom 'Mk18' style AEG but haven't a clue what to value it at. Can anyone throw out some prices what they think it's worth to help me out? Details below; **EXTERNALS** Specna Arms Polymer Receiver with RRA trademarks. Nuprol Bocca Series 2 handguard 12" - Bronze. Magpul CTR style stock. 4x Tan Battleaxe mid-cap magazines. KAC style 3-prong flash hider with QD suppressor. Tan AFG. Polymer folding iron sights. RIS rail QD sling mount. Raptor style charging handle. Generic sling plate. **INTERNALS** Perun Hybrid V2 MOSFET - wired to deans. Quick change bearing spring guide. M100 Spring. Maple Leaf Macaron 60 degree bucking and Omega nub. ZCI Cylinder. ZCI Cylinder head - double O-rings. ZCI Piston - 14 teeth metal rack. ZCI Piston head - 6 vents. ZCI Aluminium Nozzle with O-ring - 21.4mm. Standard Specna Arms 18:1 gears. Re-shimmed & Re-greased. SHS High Torque motor. 310mm ZCI 6.02mm Inner Barrel. The person has seen the pics and a video of it firing and is very happy with the semi trigger response and ROF but won't make me an offer for fear of low-balling and I have no idea what it's worth. Apologies for any shoddy formatting, I'm posting on mobile. Ty.

Can't say I ever have. It's not a huge amount of air that's being blasted into your goggles, it's just enough circulation to stop them fogging up. I've played a full 6 hours with it on it's highest setting and not had an issue.

I have an Exfog. It has two open ended tubes that I just stuff into the top of my goggles, one each side. I had already pulled the foam off for better ventilation. The rubber that the foam was attached to is soft enough to push aside and slide the tube in and then route it through my helmet and cut to size. I bought the velcro pouch and just stuck it to the back of my helmet under the bungees so it didn't go anywhere. I believe the tubing is just some generic PVC tubing used in aquariums and such but I can't remember what size it is. I pair my Exfog with some Revision anti-fog wipes which are cheap as chips and last for months at a time as long as you don't get it dirty and re-seal it. Only downside i've ever found is that when using active hearing protection, that's mounted to the helmet, it'll amplify the vibration from the fan/motor and be really annoying.

When in CQB sites I use whatever i'm using in my AEG because I don't have to bother with two bags of BBs. Never had an issue firing 0.25g or 0.28g BBs though I know things like my MK23 can easily hop way heavier.

Strange. I used a Specna Arms core-04 with the standard 's-mag' mid caps, Nuprol n-mag mid caps and Battleaxe mid caps and never had an issue. Like Colin said, try holding the mag in a couple of different positions and see what works, you can then either use velcro or even layers of electrical tape on the magazine so it always goes into the position it feeds best in.

Krytac LVOA-C. Used in 3/4 outdoors games. Comes in original box and is fitted with; Standard iron sights Standard stock changed to Magpul CTR style stock Prometheus 6.03mm tight-bore inner barrel Prometheus metal wide-use hop unit Maple leaf Macaron Yellow bucking Maple leaf Omega nub Magpul style RIS QD sling mount Cosmetically there's some scuffing on top RIS rail where I was mounting/removing optics (see pictures). Selling due to not getting used any more as I prefer using my DMR outdoors and have other AEGs if I wanted to use one so this is surplus to requirements. Not sure what to list it for.

If you want in-ear protection; i've used the Earmor M20. They work, don't cause your ears/side of the head to get hot but at the same time, you can still got shot in the ear which sucks. Can pick these ones up on ebay for about £40 new. If you want over-ear, i've used the Earmor M31. Again, they work. They protect your ears but your head/ears tends to get hot. As a note for both Earmor offerings; they don't go completely silent when they detect loud noises. The best way I can describe is that they cut out all of the top end so you can hear the 'loud' noise but at a safe volume level. In comparison, I have an unbranded headset (comtac knock offs) that cut all sound completely (depending on how loud it is) and fades sound back in afterwards.

I see you fellow man of culture! I've bought one of those retro emulation console devices so I can play old stuff like this.

I played it offline the whole way through and it was a quality time because I wasn't taken out of my immersion by other people. On console, this wouldn't surprise me at all.

It has a few bronze bristles but not a lot. That section of the bore snake seems narrower than the rest of the snake too. I've mainly used it on my MP5 which has a stainless barrel and i've never noticed any degredation in performance if it was damaging the inner barrel. If you really want something like this without brushes at all, you can get something called a 'bore-whip' or trying pulling out as many of the brushes as possible.