MrTea

Depends on what GBB pistol you have; AirTac UK have a range of magazine adapters available as found here. After that you'd need a tank, line & regulator as a starting minimum.

Valken ASL are the standard rental at NTAC, my local outdoors site, and what played my first three games with to get my UKARA. They're half-decent and run well. They really need a bucking/nub upgrade to be competitive.

It's a rite of passage. Was playing a few weeks ago, opened a new 1kg bag of BLS 0.28g BBs to put into my Odin and dropped more than half the bag onto the table & floor 🙃 I think I may invest in a few of those fabric BB bags that have the rigid spouts.

It doesn't. At least, i've never found mine turned off between games but my Holy Warrior must have narcolepsy because within 30 seconds of having my rifle hanging then bringing up to aim it's already off and i've got to use my clumsy big gloved finger to try and press the brightness to turn it back on. Annoying when you aim at someone and there's just empty glass framing them. That said, the first thing I do at the end of every session is remove batteries from everything.

Well that's a brand new sentence I didn't think i'd read today.

Not really. I've seen guides on the internet of people using PTFE tape to things like scotch tape and just layering it up. Companies such as Airtech Studios make Inner Barrel Stabilisers but i've bought their stuff and it's super picky with fitment. I tried fitting one (out of curiousity more than anything else) to my Krytac LVOA-C and it wouldn't even fit around the Laylax/Prometheus stainless barrel which is a direct replacement for the stock brass barrel. I'd have to measure the diameter with my calipers before i'd call their stuff a complete bust though. I imagine you could stretch the plastic around the outer barrel if you heated it up enough... 🤔 I tried fitting their L85A2 stabiliser to my G&G L85A2 and that fit fine (stock barrel)... but it will only fit with the standard flash hider due to it's design. Only way around that is to turn it into a sleeve but then there's no guarantee of it staying in place. This post might interest you on the Airsoft Sniper forums.

New hop unit from AirsoftPro ordered. Hopefully this one actually works. Prolly going to take 2 weeks to arrive so the DMR won't be viable for my next outdoors session.

Try using a 60 degree bucking (the yellow one) for 350fps and test again? As Leo Greer suggests, stabilising the inner barrel inside the outer may be required to improve accuracy further. Currently working on this myself but i'm waiting on more parts to arrive.

I used these. These should also work. I will say, the actual spade connector which goes onto the motor tab is crimped a touch too tight and I had to use a small flathead to pry them open a bit more so they went onto the motor tab without forcing it on and potentially damaging the motor. If you don't have one already, i'd suggest getting a crimping tool.

--- UPDATE --- Halfords saves the day. Got a box of spade connectors and they fit the motor tab perfectly fine and there was plenty of wire left to clip the old one off and replace it with this new one. Banged the motor in and test fired. Gearbox is working nicely. Now the hop unit. The wiitech hop unit is trash, despite looking very nice. The hop arm gets stuck in the body of the hop unit with full hop is applied. The hop adjustment piece doesn't actually fit on the hop unit and pops off at a whim. The tabs/wings on the hop unit which lock into the Masada outer barrel are too wide and even with a fair bit of force will not go into the outer barrel. I've had to take the metal hop arm and brass nub from the Wiitech hop unit and put it in the stock plastic hop unit for now just to get a functioning gun. I'll have to search around for the AirsoftPro version. The loading ramp and nozzle were fine, no problems with them and function fine with the stock hop unit. I grabbed a bottle of 0.2g BBs and tested the FPS. I got a few wonky readings because I had no hop applied and was pointing the gun down allowing some BBs to escape but it's sitting between the 400fps-405fps area. My site limit is 420fps for DMRs so unless I can get a better airseal to grab those last few FPS, i'm okay with it sitting here power wise. A new/better hop unit (that actually fits) may improve the airseal to the point of hitting the site limit, hopefully, maybe. Will have to do some reliable testing once i've sourced another hop unit. Here's a nice pic of the bevel gear too, looks like it's had a hard life.

I've never had an item not turn up with Aliexpress or similar. Usually it takes 8-14 days to deliver but it's always been within that timeframe, Royal Mail issues not included. Temu deliver their stuff with Evri once it's in country and they've been great but their selection is lacking compared to Aliexpress and others.

If you want a Holographic style optic, I have a SOTAC branded XPS3 from Ebay and it works a treat. Bright enough for use outdoors on a sunny day but doesn't have huge issues with parallax in my experience but it does exist, it always will with cheap airsoft optics. They're pushing the top end of 'budget' in airsoft but it's worth it. Between that and my HolyWarrior S1 XPS3 I struggle to choose which is better. The HW S1 has an annoying habbit of not turning on/not accepting CR123A batteries, i've spent 20+ min finger fucking it before it works where the SOTAC one just turns on instantly, zero issues. The HW however has light levels low enough to be used with NVGs (for the ultra larpers that use them which rules out 99% of players) The SOTAC can be green or red reticule, whichever you prefer. There's an ebay store called "mk1_tactical" who sells a lot of SOTAC branded gear. You'd likely benefit from their Comp M2 offering. A mistake people often mistake is buying an optic that is too low (due to face protection) meaning they have to bend their neck into a strange place to get a good sight picture. After realising their mistake they buy a riser. The Comp M2 i've linked earlier comes with the riser/mount meaning you're unlikely to have this issue.

Glad I could help! Like I said, the S.I stocks are (or appear to be) pretty hard to come by and expensive when you do unless you can find a cheap one on the likes of aliexpress or similar. Stock styled like the Magpul CTR are much more plentiful or like @Tackle said, the D-Day minimalist (or similar) stocks will fit your needs.

As much as i'd like to do that because I know i'm going to have to take it apart again at some point, my inner perfectionist refuses to do it and i'd rather spend an hour battling with it so it works rather than removing the functionality

It's annoying that they're just grub screws into a soft metal that deforms extremely easily. It can't be that hard to make them from a stronger material and tap a thread?

I used the thicker stuff in Halfords, the velcro in the while/black box.

Well. Things didn't go as planned... I sat down today to start work on the DMR. I cleaned the gearbox shell and everything in it. Replaced the bushings/bearings with the nice new bearings from AK2M4 and reshimmed. The etched shims make it really easy to tell what you're using. The extra 0.5mm in bearing height didn't cause any issues with the selector plate so i'm happy about that. Compression set changed and is fantastic. Interestingly, the DMR version of the Masada has a quick change spring where I don't think the Carbine versions does. The spring guide I ordered is a non-quick change one so i'll sort that whenever, it's a 2 minute job to get to. Fuck ambidextrous selectors. I got it working but it can fuck right off. Test the mosfet to make sure it's seeing the different selector positions. Bingo. Pop the new motor in and gently bend the motor connections----SNAP. Ah for fuck sake. The little spade connector for the positive tab snapped rather than bending. Thankfully there's loads of spare wire for me to put a new one on tomorrow once i've paid halfords a visit.

I use this battery however it's showing as no longer available so you may need to take the dimensions from this listing and use others on Amazon. If you have prime, you can order them with free delivery and their returns (if it doesn't fit) are super easy. The Strike Industries stocks are hard to find in stock. The main retailer won't ship to the UK from their shipping options and I can't find it anywhere other than Brownells who are asking £79.90. Specshop.pl are asking €93.75. I have a Strike Industries stock in my spares box. I'm surprised owners aren't trying to sell theirs at a huge premium. So you have mil-spec and com (commercial)-spec. Krytac, I believe, is mil-spec. Here's a comparison of the two. To fix any inaccuracies in measurements I use the 'soft' side of velcro on my buffer tube and force the stock onto it. Here's a couple pictures of my Krytac LVOA-C for reference. It wobbles a bit from left to right, only slightly but it doesn't "rattle like a MF". I had to do the same on my Specna Arms Mk18 custom build.

Christ, that's some riser!

Strike Industries Mod 1 (or it's knock off equivalent) stock might interest you. I hated my Krytac stock so I just swapped it to a Magpul CTR Style stock. Only annoying thing was having to find a battery that'd fit the buffer tube. I bought an Amazon special 11.1v LiPo and have since used that for my M4 style rifles as they all have CTR style stocks on them.

When I was looking into LPVOs for my DMR I found a lot of people use red dots alongside LPVOs (usually on the top of the scope rings (in airsoft)) because they're faster to bring on target in close quarters (than a 1x LPVO) and can be used with both eyes open which can be an issue with magnified optics like an LPVO alongside the requirement for proper eye relief/eye box alignment. Flip up iron sights are unlikely to work because they'd be blocked by the mount like you said. You can get some scope rings that act like an iron sight on the top but at that point you might as well use a red dot.

I got lazy and just bought what appears to be a legit (or at least uses the original design) HK MP5 sling but it's not as fast to adjust as a regular 2 or 3 point sling that you'd use on an M4 for example as you need to pop the 'slider' into that bit near the magwell if you don't want to drop it and have it smack you squarely in the nuts.

Guys please! Fire your stuff nowhere near your setups. I test mine in an empty garage with a mesh net wrapped around the chrono until it literally blew the zip out and i'm figuring out a new solution that can withstand 500fps.

OOF. Was it a ricochet or did you pull the trigger while it was pointed at the monitor? Regardless, why are all of your setups so cluttered? There's more than a few pics posted recently of peoples setups and they're all like this. It's agonising.

For reference; my custom Mk18, when playing outdoors, will last about 3-4 hours on a 1500mah 11.1v LiPo with a mix of semi and full auto fire. Usually run through about 10-12 150 round mid-caps. It's an Amazon special to boot to fit my stock tube. When playing indoors with it, it'll last all night in semi-auto without the LiPo alarm from the MOSFET coming on. I think there's something wrong with the battery. No way should it die that quick.