MrTea

Quake 8-way can carry 7x .209 primers in each grenade so you don't have to reload each time. You simply twist the base to each numbered slot and twist to the safe position when finished with it. When I had one I never had an issue with it not going off. Can't speak for the Dynatex offering but given how they're pretty much the same price when new, I know which i'd go for. If I remember rightly, they also sell spares for the Quake grenades just in case anything breaks.

So after more than a few hours trawling the internet and weighing up my options i've decided to go for an optic that wasn't in the initial list which may be a gamble. I've put in an order for the RedWin Torero HD 1-6x24 IR (SFP). On sale with $56 off bringing it down to $103.35 (about £82) this includes a one-piece mount, killflash, lens caps and cleaning cloths. I ordered a throw lever/ring they have for this model of their optics for another $10. Shipping to the UK is $6.30. I woke up to an email this morning with a partial refund and another email to let me know the optic actually comes with a throw lever/ring for free and they just refunded me the cost of the it. That's pretty decent customer service right off the bat. I would have just went for the Victoptics ZOD but Evike Europe wanted $150 in shipping. Every other store I found it at were priced higher than the RedWin option so i've taken the gamble especially which is offset a fair bit when the total is <£90. Edit: Interestingly the tracking just updated an hour or so ago and it's journey is starting in the Netherlands. If this is correct it might only take a few days to arrive.

Thanks for the info. It just seemed like a too good to be true for £80. That's a nice mount too, did it come with the optic or was it extra? Are adjustments under the caps or are they the one's where you pull them up to adjust? I was concerned about the optics windage/elevation adjustment being under the caps which is why one's i've listed (with the exception of the Visionking which i'm not sure about) have their adjustment on the 'turret' itself and not under a cap. The mil-dot reticule is a good piece of advice rather than adjusting all the time so thanks. The Victoptic ZOD has all of these features and is the cheapest of the lot while being a 1x rather than 1.2-1.5x. I'm trying to do more research about this as it's apparently not widely known about but this could also be because it's an older & discontinued optic. The RedWin Rynox again has these features but is 1.2x minimum and only £2 more so it could be a contender.

As i'm currently in the process of building a DMR, I sold the 3-9x Nuprol optic that came with the base AEG as it only had a minimum magnification of 3x. I briefly considered using a 3x flip down/to side magnifier but would like the ability to have A. adjust windage and elevation for the longer shots and B. have a smooth adjustment through the magnification range so I can have a suitable magnification for the situation. My current options are as follows; Visionking 1.25-5x26 - £80 - No throw lever Victoptics ZOD 1-4x20 - £100 - £60 was from evike europe and they wanted $150 shipping RedWin Rynox 1.2-6x24 - £62 <- a recommendation from user on Reddit I found - No throw lever Redwin Torero HD 1-6x24 - On sale for $103.35 (£81.35) - Seller has throw arms/rings specifically for this model Vector Optics Forester 1-5x24 Gen 2 - £130 - no mil-dots Vector Optics Mustang GENII 1-4x30 - £130 - chevron optic Vector Optics Grimlock GENII 1-6x24 - £135 Novritsch 1-4x25 - £85 (I know I know Novritsch bad but i've seen favourable reviews of this) Thoughts, recommendations i've overlooked or general advice?

Thanks for the input and confirming what I already thought. Your link doesn't work due to the "." at the end of your link btw

Would you say you benefitted from the 3-9x more than you would a 1-4x? Asking as i'm building a DMR and can only ever imagine needing 4x as a maximum but looking for others views.

Apparently I read the thread wrong. Ignore my stupidity. I would have expected a heavier BB to decrease FPS, not increase it. I can't say i've ever seen this personally.

Probably not. Most pistols in Airsoft are gas powered. Most are GBB (Gas Blow Back) and some are Non-Blow back (NBB). There are some that are AEP but are, from what i've seen, shunned in terms of performance versus the prior mentioned methods. Also, as @Shamal said, prepare your wallet. I said i'd never buy anything other than needed to play and now i'm at nine guns with overhead to expand. Send help.

Even then, the "seized" gun is a MyMateDaveCustomAirsoftUpgrade at Tier 3 which adds an additional £440 to the price of the AEG (holy fuck I would have done it for a crate of beer) for a gearbox overhaul, compression set overhaul, AOE correction, new inner barrel, bucking & nub and that's NOT including a MOSFET. He wants £400 for a gun that doesn't work after paying all that money for upgrades and paying £350 for the AEG itself. The parts list is also clearly listed on the site so he really didn't try his hardest there. But remember "THIS IS A ABSOLUTE BARGAIN … all this gear has seen only 5/6 games in its life and was all purchased from new". Don't miss out lads but why the fuck is some of the gear still dirty if you're trying to sell it?! I'd probably give him less than £200 for the LCT AK105 because it's likely scuffed to fuck and needs repair/new parts that actually make it work rather than seize.

Well that's interesting. Surely they can't be raffling off the same rifle whilst also having it up for sale here but it wouldn't surprise me. Also, £800 without a list of any upgrades?

Huh. That's smart. I wonder where's he's hiding the airtags in the grenade. Can't imagine it's just stuck to the outside somewhere in case it gets broken when thrown. Theft is also one of the reasons I sold off some of my BFGs. I'd rather be able to throw pyro/grenades then carry on with gameplay without worrying about it being stolen.

I doubt it is. I've used loads of different brands of mags through my Specna Arms hop unit and nozzle when I was doing testing. S-mags, battleaxe, nuprol, nuprol hex mags, valken, PTS and then again after i'd rebuilt the gearbox with new parts. Never had a feed issue. Disagree. I'm still using that hop rubber & nub combo in my build with the stock blue plastic hop unit and i've never had a feed issue. I would first suggest making sure the hop rubber itself has no oil/grease/lubrication on the outside or inside. This could be a potential cause. I'd also suggest checking how much play the hop arm has and turn it all the way off/on and check if there's excess play (and it's actually working). Look down the barrel with the hop fully on and make sure it's protruding into the barrel a good amount. I would have suggested cleaning the barrel in case there's anything in there causing inconsistency with the BBs but you say it's doing it on the stock barrel too. When I install hop rubbers I like to press down on the hop window (on the barrel) and make sure the contact patch is fully visible. I do this again once i've rebuilt the hop unit to make sure nothings moved.

I might be remembering wrongly here but Negative Airsoft did a test where he found 9.9v LiFe batteries were more thermally efficient with only negligible performance drop vs 11.1v lipo batteries and didn't heat up the motors/motor grips nearly as much. I think his video might be worth a watch.

Dumb question, have you tried this with a delayer chip on the 13:1 gears? I had one put on my MP5 as it wouldn't feed properly without it. I've seen people say they've still had feeding issues with one and all they did is put it in backwards so it pulls the tappet plate sooner and pulls it ever so slightly further back and this fixes their feeding issues. For the sake of £2, it's worth a try.

Same. For the few times i've spoke to him, he's always been helpful and insightful. Couldn't fault the guy over anything so far. I'm hoping he gets those new barrels in soon

I use them on my other stuff and tbh it's decent for the price except their longer barrels are a pretty penny and come into range of other, better, brands. You might be interested to know that AK2M4 is making (or getting made) his own inner barrels and they're supposed to be a similar price point to ZCI while having an ever better internal polish, he's calling them "XT standard and XT performance. He even bought a scope cam to show off the internal of the test pieces. Supposed to be arriving in September. Here's a link to his FB page where he shows the inner surface of stock brass, aluminium, ZCI and the test pieces he's received so far. My only gripe with ZCI is that they only make 6.02mm as far as I know.

That's what I was thinking. Most people associate weak gearboxes with brittle rather than soft metal. Radiusing was always on the cards as it's such an easy thing to do to alleviate pressure on the gearbox shell and it's basically just rounding the corners of the shell where the cylinder head meets it, especially when the gearbox is going to need totally stripping for cleaning anyway. When I took apart the AR Masada gearbox and cleaned it, my hands were black afterwards. I had to use 'industrial cleaner' to get the crap off. Not sure what they're using inside the gearbox for lube but it's awful to clean.

I've always thought the teeny tiny, sub-compact guns are cool. Things like the PX4 Bulldog, TM Ruger Compact, WE EU26 (also full auto).

Looks like i'm going to be the experiment then. Can you can remember how long yours lasted at 350fps or did you change it prematurely? I'm still running the stock gearbox shell in the AR version and i'll try seeing long the stock gearbox shell lasts in the DMR version obviously checking it after each time I play.

Is the contact patch too big for some barrel windows on the ML MR hop rubbers for brands like PDI or is it PDI have a smaller window? I usually use ML Macaron in everything I build as it's always served me well but fancied trying out their MR hop rubber. Yes and no. I've read that 'Radiusing' the gearbox is, more than likely, necessary however given it's a standard V2 gearbox shell i'm not too bothered if I prematurely destroy it. Also, given it's made in China and the stock parts on the gun are pretty crap (i.e. the nozzle, piston, spring guide etc.) it wouldn't surprise me if the gearbox shell is also crap. I've pulled a gearbox from an A&K Masada before and it felt like one of the poorest quality ones i've handled and had stange marks on the outside and inside, pic related from the boneyard Masada AR I bought ~6 month ago; I didn't jack up the wiring or double up the spring in the gearbox which is shown in the picture, that was all the previous 'tech' who 'fixed' the gun. Thanks again for all the help. Hopefully in a month or two i'll be back with an update on the build.

Got excited when I saw a F2000 for sale on there then noticed the condition it's in

Having had a quick read over that, the writer is saying the ideal barrel length (for a non ported cylinder) is 380mm when using 0.36g BBs where the cylinder to barrel volume ratio is 2.48:1. Using the calculator they linked, I've input the cylinder size that I was planning on buying 23.7mm inner diameter X 72mm length minus the length of the cylinder head/piston. While i'm not sure on the exact size, i'm using the 12mm measurement they provided in the article. Using the calculator, assuming I'm using 6.03mm barrels, the 380mm length they specify gives a ratio of 2.44:1. I tweaked the barrel length setting until I got the 2.48:1 ratio and ended up with a barrel length of 374mm. The writer also states that AEGs are 'forgiving' and during their testing you can go 50mm each way with only approx 0.05joule loss which would take me up to a maximum of 424mm. Am I using this information and the tools provided correctly or is the lack of sleep after a night shift addling my brain? If I buy an ideal barrel length of 374mm (or similar) within the plus/minus 50mm range depending on what is available, what are the chances of the BB striking the inside of the outer barrel? Edit: I've updated the shopping list with the relevant barrel choices moving forward. If you wouldn't mind casting your eye over it. I tried finding Lambda SMART ones in stock but had no luck.

You'd be correct about the BB weight. I was planning on using 0.36G. For the barrel, I can't measure the stock one until it arrives in the post but listings online are stating 509mm. How much of a reduction in length are we talking about? Would this make it harder to stabilise the inner barrel inside the outer barrel or is the tape method mentioned in your linked post still applicable? Secondly, my understanding is this where "bore-up" sets come into play specifically to avoid the reduction in performance with longer barrels however I've seen loads of conflicting comments from people saying that you only need bore up for 600mm+ and some saying they're used when your barrel exceeds 450mm+ The current cylinder I was planning to use is one without any ports and is advertised as being suitable for 450mm - 660mm barrels. Checking different brands I see a similar cylinder length and internal diameter and they're advertised as being suitable for 450mm-550mm barrels. Thanks for the advice so far and continued help.