MrTea

Huh. That's smart. I wonder where's he's hiding the airtags in the grenade. Can't imagine it's just stuck to the outside somewhere in case it gets broken when thrown. Theft is also one of the reasons I sold off some of my BFGs. I'd rather be able to throw pyro/grenades then carry on with gameplay without worrying about it being stolen.

I doubt it is. I've used loads of different brands of mags through my Specna Arms hop unit and nozzle when I was doing testing. S-mags, battleaxe, nuprol, nuprol hex mags, valken, PTS and then again after i'd rebuilt the gearbox with new parts. Never had a feed issue. Disagree. I'm still using that hop rubber & nub combo in my build with the stock blue plastic hop unit and i've never had a feed issue. I would first suggest making sure the hop rubber itself has no oil/grease/lubrication on the outside or inside. This could be a potential cause. I'd also suggest checking how much play the hop arm has and turn it all the way off/on and check if there's excess play (and it's actually working). Look down the barrel with the hop fully on and make sure it's protruding into the barrel a good amount. I would have suggested cleaning the barrel in case there's anything in there causing inconsistency with the BBs but you say it's doing it on the stock barrel too. When I install hop rubbers I like to press down on the hop window (on the barrel) and make sure the contact patch is fully visible. I do this again once i've rebuilt the hop unit to make sure nothings moved.

I might be remembering wrongly here but Negative Airsoft did a test where he found 9.9v LiFe batteries were more thermally efficient with only negligible performance drop vs 11.1v lipo batteries and didn't heat up the motors/motor grips nearly as much. I think his video might be worth a watch.

Dumb question, have you tried this with a delayer chip on the 13:1 gears? I had one put on my MP5 as it wouldn't feed properly without it. I've seen people say they've still had feeding issues with one and all they did is put it in backwards so it pulls the tappet plate sooner and pulls it ever so slightly further back and this fixes their feeding issues. For the sake of £2, it's worth a try.

Same. For the few times i've spoke to him, he's always been helpful and insightful. Couldn't fault the guy over anything so far. I'm hoping he gets those new barrels in soon

I use them on my other stuff and tbh it's decent for the price except their longer barrels are a pretty penny and come into range of other, better, brands. You might be interested to know that AK2M4 is making (or getting made) his own inner barrels and they're supposed to be a similar price point to ZCI while having an ever better internal polish, he's calling them "XT standard and XT performance. He even bought a scope cam to show off the internal of the test pieces. Supposed to be arriving in September. Here's a link to his FB page where he shows the inner surface of stock brass, aluminium, ZCI and the test pieces he's received so far. My only gripe with ZCI is that they only make 6.02mm as far as I know.

That's what I was thinking. Most people associate weak gearboxes with brittle rather than soft metal. Radiusing was always on the cards as it's such an easy thing to do to alleviate pressure on the gearbox shell and it's basically just rounding the corners of the shell where the cylinder head meets it, especially when the gearbox is going to need totally stripping for cleaning anyway. When I took apart the AR Masada gearbox and cleaned it, my hands were black afterwards. I had to use 'industrial cleaner' to get the crap off. Not sure what they're using inside the gearbox for lube but it's awful to clean.

I've always thought the teeny tiny, sub-compact guns are cool. Things like the PX4 Bulldog, TM Ruger Compact, WE EU26 (also full auto).

Looks like i'm going to be the experiment then. Can you can remember how long yours lasted at 350fps or did you change it prematurely? I'm still running the stock gearbox shell in the AR version and i'll try seeing long the stock gearbox shell lasts in the DMR version obviously checking it after each time I play.

Is the contact patch too big for some barrel windows on the ML MR hop rubbers for brands like PDI or is it PDI have a smaller window? I usually use ML Macaron in everything I build as it's always served me well but fancied trying out their MR hop rubber. Yes and no. I've read that 'Radiusing' the gearbox is, more than likely, necessary however given it's a standard V2 gearbox shell i'm not too bothered if I prematurely destroy it. Also, given it's made in China and the stock parts on the gun are pretty crap (i.e. the nozzle, piston, spring guide etc.) it wouldn't surprise me if the gearbox shell is also crap. I've pulled a gearbox from an A&K Masada before and it felt like one of the poorest quality ones i've handled and had stange marks on the outside and inside, pic related from the boneyard Masada AR I bought ~6 month ago; I didn't jack up the wiring or double up the spring in the gearbox which is shown in the picture, that was all the previous 'tech' who 'fixed' the gun. Thanks again for all the help. Hopefully in a month or two i'll be back with an update on the build.

Got excited when I saw a F2000 for sale on there then noticed the condition it's in

Having had a quick read over that, the writer is saying the ideal barrel length (for a non ported cylinder) is 380mm when using 0.36g BBs where the cylinder to barrel volume ratio is 2.48:1. Using the calculator they linked, I've input the cylinder size that I was planning on buying 23.7mm inner diameter X 72mm length minus the length of the cylinder head/piston. While i'm not sure on the exact size, i'm using the 12mm measurement they provided in the article. Using the calculator, assuming I'm using 6.03mm barrels, the 380mm length they specify gives a ratio of 2.44:1. I tweaked the barrel length setting until I got the 2.48:1 ratio and ended up with a barrel length of 374mm. The writer also states that AEGs are 'forgiving' and during their testing you can go 50mm each way with only approx 0.05joule loss which would take me up to a maximum of 424mm. Am I using this information and the tools provided correctly or is the lack of sleep after a night shift addling my brain? If I buy an ideal barrel length of 374mm (or similar) within the plus/minus 50mm range depending on what is available, what are the chances of the BB striking the inside of the outer barrel? Edit: I've updated the shopping list with the relevant barrel choices moving forward. If you wouldn't mind casting your eye over it. I tried finding Lambda SMART ones in stock but had no luck.

You'd be correct about the BB weight. I was planning on using 0.36G. For the barrel, I can't measure the stock one until it arrives in the post but listings online are stating 509mm. How much of a reduction in length are we talking about? Would this make it harder to stabilise the inner barrel inside the outer barrel or is the tape method mentioned in your linked post still applicable? Secondly, my understanding is this where "bore-up" sets come into play specifically to avoid the reduction in performance with longer barrels however I've seen loads of conflicting comments from people saying that you only need bore up for 600mm+ and some saying they're used when your barrel exceeds 450mm+ The current cylinder I was planning to use is one without any ports and is advertised as being suitable for 450mm - 660mm barrels. Checking different brands I see a similar cylinder length and internal diameter and they're advertised as being suitable for 450mm-550mm barrels. Thanks for the advice so far and continued help.

Thanks for the reply! Delayer chip: That was my train of thought too. For £2 it's worth picking up just in case. Guarder Springs: These are SPxxx springs. Should I use a SP120 or SP130 or just buy and test both? Barrels: thanks for the info and suggestions. The barrel lengths I'm looking at are the stock barrel length which comes with the gun. I will look into potentially lapping the barrel depending on what the condition is like. I'll read your link to try and learn more about stabilising the hop, nozzle, hop arm and inner barrel.

As i've posted within the "what have you just bought" thread, i've bought an A&K Masada SPR/DMR from another player however it's still got full auto and is at AEG limits of 350fps. I've been theory crafting a shopping list for turning it into an actual DMR. The different playstyle and technical challenge of making something reliable/consistent enough to be used as a DMR should be fun however, as always when doing something new, I would appreciate advice from those more experienced with this type of thing. This is how it's currently looking. As always, any and all advice appreciated.

I already have an A&K Masada yes, but why not two? Edited out the sellers name. The seller slid into my Discord DMs asking if i'd be interested in taking it off their hands, all accessories and postage included for £150. Having just been paid with some overtime it was impossible to resist an early birthday present to myself. Gun works fine, apparently the selector is grinding which isn't a surprise having taken these apart before - the ambi selector kinda sucks and is a bit of a bastard when reassembling the gun. I'm now theory-crafting a shopping list to turn this into an actual DMR as it's currently at full-auto AEG limits (i've posted my shopping list in the electric guns section if anyone's interested). Might be nice to try out a different style of gameplay as well as the technical challenge of making a consistent DMR having not done this before. Local site limits for DMRs are 420fps so it gives me a nice bit of overhead for throwing heavier BBs.

I've often found that more and more pyro is the answer, depending on how far you can throw. If you can't throw that far, invest in taginn launchable pyro This is why I prefer my indoors CQB site. No one is moaning that the spawn is too far away and they spend a couple minutes walking back to the action to get killed and have to walk back again. Especially when the attackers are going up a decent incline, that gets tiring even for the fittest of guys.

I did this for the exact same reason. Almost all of boneyard guns I have bought have had shagged pistol grip screws.

Novritsch ventilated plates for my plate carrier. Hopefully these will help reduce the heat build up while carrying a bigger loadout for outdoors/extended play sessions without making me overheat like crazy. These are the only plates I could find that had the body curve rather than being flat from a 3d printer. I did try ordering a Condor Modular Chest System from an Italian (only place I could find it in stock in UK or Europe) company only to get refunded as they're out of stock despite saying that had plenty of stock on their site Only other option for this specific rig in Multicam or OCP is to pay a premium from the US. Must keep looking for a bigger loadout chest rig. I'm looking for a rig with 5-8 M4 mags + pistol mag/grenade pouches OR molle space for addtional pouches and it MUST have a back panel. The chest rigs i've tried with straps only across the back start to cause back pain in extended sessions when fully loaded.

Does that lad also reckon he got Cerakote done for £20? Even Fifewargames charge £75 for a rifle. I also like how he claims 45rps but the gun's broke atm because of the shredded piston teeth so he can't actually prove it's capable of that ROF. To boot, it's not even the full metal CG16 version of the Predator. Why are the pictures such low quality too?

😂 He's now edited his listing without all the BS and repriced it at £140 w/ postage.

Not that i've used them but i've read more than a few, albeit older, posts about the Bolt BRSS/heavy recoil systems being horridly unreliable and/or completely crap internals to the point stores were complaining to Bolt because they were having to repair so many of their AEGs. I saw a BRSS up for sale a while ago, dirt cheap, and wish I pulled the trigger on it then.

Like is it generally frowned upon if you get too close to enemy spawn because it is spawn camping? Yes. Should you call hits if your own team shot you? Yes. Does ricochet count as hits? Not at the sites I play. Direct hits only. How do you execute a knife kill, and does it only count if the enemy hasn't noticed you and if you do it , or can you engage a enemy around a corner and try to land a stab as they try to shoot you or is this not allowed? Engage however you want, they have to shoot to kill you. You cannot force their weapon "off line". The best way to get a knife kill is from a flank or be faster than them. A couple of personal ones I feel should be standard; If you shoot someone and they look hurt, you stop what you're doing as see if they're okay. This mainly applies to CQC sites and especially for rental players as they tend to be given crap gear by sites. If you can't figure out who shot who first because it was such a close call, you both take the hit (trade) and go back to spawn. Don't touch others gear without asking first. If you find anything on a field that's clerarly out of place/lost, you bring it to marshalls, not pocket it. Edit: Forgot the most important one; ALWAYS help your rentals. Balance teams so rentals are even spaced and actually have a chance, not constantly getting demolished by the more experienced players and/or speedsoft lads. They're the lifeblood of this hobby/sport and preventing them from having fun means they'll never come again.