MrTea

Thanks for the reply! Delayer chip: That was my train of thought too. For £2 it's worth picking up just in case. Guarder Springs: These are SPxxx springs. Should I use a SP120 or SP130 or just buy and test both? Barrels: thanks for the info and suggestions. The barrel lengths I'm looking at are the stock barrel length which comes with the gun. I will look into potentially lapping the barrel depending on what the condition is like. I'll read your link to try and learn more about stabilising the hop, nozzle, hop arm and inner barrel.

As i've posted within the "what have you just bought" thread, i've bought an A&K Masada SPR/DMR from another player however it's still got full auto and is at AEG limits of 350fps. I've been theory crafting a shopping list for turning it into an actual DMR. The different playstyle and technical challenge of making something reliable/consistent enough to be used as a DMR should be fun however, as always when doing something new, I would appreciate advice from those more experienced with this type of thing. This is how it's currently looking. As always, any and all advice appreciated.

I already have an A&K Masada yes, but why not two? Edited out the sellers name. The seller slid into my Discord DMs asking if i'd be interested in taking it off their hands, all accessories and postage included for £150. Having just been paid with some overtime it was impossible to resist an early birthday present to myself. Gun works fine, apparently the selector is grinding which isn't a surprise having taken these apart before - the ambi selector kinda sucks and is a bit of a bastard when reassembling the gun. I'm now theory-crafting a shopping list to turn this into an actual DMR as it's currently at full-auto AEG limits (i've posted my shopping list in the electric guns section if anyone's interested). Might be nice to try out a different style of gameplay as well as the technical challenge of making a consistent DMR having not done this before. Local site limits for DMRs are 420fps so it gives me a nice bit of overhead for throwing heavier BBs.

I've often found that more and more pyro is the answer, depending on how far you can throw. If you can't throw that far, invest in taginn launchable pyro This is why I prefer my indoors CQB site. No one is moaning that the spawn is too far away and they spend a couple minutes walking back to the action to get killed and have to walk back again. Especially when the attackers are going up a decent incline, that gets tiring even for the fittest of guys.

I did this for the exact same reason. Almost all of boneyard guns I have bought have had shagged pistol grip screws.

Novritsch ventilated plates for my plate carrier. Hopefully these will help reduce the heat build up while carrying a bigger loadout for outdoors/extended play sessions without making me overheat like crazy. These are the only plates I could find that had the body curve rather than being flat from a 3d printer. I did try ordering a Condor Modular Chest System from an Italian (only place I could find it in stock in UK or Europe) company only to get refunded as they're out of stock despite saying that had plenty of stock on their site Only other option for this specific rig in Multicam or OCP is to pay a premium from the US. Must keep looking for a bigger loadout chest rig. I'm looking for a rig with 5-8 M4 mags + pistol mag/grenade pouches OR molle space for addtional pouches and it MUST have a back panel. The chest rigs i've tried with straps only across the back start to cause back pain in extended sessions when fully loaded.

Does that lad also reckon he got Cerakote done for £20? Even Fifewargames charge £75 for a rifle. I also like how he claims 45rps but the gun's broke atm because of the shredded piston teeth so he can't actually prove it's capable of that ROF. To boot, it's not even the full metal CG16 version of the Predator. Why are the pictures such low quality too?

😂 He's now edited his listing without all the BS and repriced it at £140 w/ postage.

Not that i've used them but i've read more than a few, albeit older, posts about the Bolt BRSS/heavy recoil systems being horridly unreliable and/or completely crap internals to the point stores were complaining to Bolt because they were having to repair so many of their AEGs. I saw a BRSS up for sale a while ago, dirt cheap, and wish I pulled the trigger on it then.

Like is it generally frowned upon if you get too close to enemy spawn because it is spawn camping? Yes. Should you call hits if your own team shot you? Yes. Does ricochet count as hits? Not at the sites I play. Direct hits only. How do you execute a knife kill, and does it only count if the enemy hasn't noticed you and if you do it , or can you engage a enemy around a corner and try to land a stab as they try to shoot you or is this not allowed? Engage however you want, they have to shoot to kill you. You cannot force their weapon "off line". The best way to get a knife kill is from a flank or be faster than them. A couple of personal ones I feel should be standard; If you shoot someone and they look hurt, you stop what you're doing as see if they're okay. This mainly applies to CQC sites and especially for rental players as they tend to be given crap gear by sites. If you can't figure out who shot who first because it was such a close call, you both take the hit (trade) and go back to spawn. Don't touch others gear without asking first. If you find anything on a field that's clerarly out of place/lost, you bring it to marshalls, not pocket it. Edit: Forgot the most important one; ALWAYS help your rentals. Balance teams so rentals are even spaced and actually have a chance, not constantly getting demolished by the more experienced players and/or speedsoft lads. They're the lifeblood of this hobby/sport and preventing them from having fun means they'll never come again.

Haven't gone wrong with my Warrior Asssault System plate carrier yet to be honest. Only issue is, it gets hot fecking fast so i've switched to a chest rig for now. I even paid Novritsch for some of the ventilated hexagonal dummy plates he sells to help with the heat. A guy I was speaking to swears by the Bulldog Tactical plate carriers. There's plenty of options floating around in the classifieds, i'd have a mooch there to see what you like the look of.

What an interesting time for this thread to be revived. I have an A&K Masada that i've just about brought back from the dead and due to the previous owners negligence, it's pretty rough externally including glue on the handguard where they previously attached RIS rails. Was just going to rattle can it myself but this could be a worth a look. Where's best to contact you to get a quotation?

This is part of the reason why I don't go to big chains/branches. My local opticians has 2 stores and that's it. They've always been fantastic and i've never felt ripped off even when buying designer frames but this could be because my prescription is very weak.

WE Samurai Edge Gen 2 - Apparently the only Resident Evil movie it's been in has been the most recent one according to the wiki... still counts though. I've got an L85 as per Nick Gs eagle eye was in Aliens. I believe its the two racks in the rear of the shot.

By micro Lipo do you mean the PEQ box small square/rectangular batteries? Is there enough room to just drop them in? Pic related;

Another update; I was doing some extra testing with the handguard with only the bottom screw in place and pulling the handguard as far back towards the receiver as possible. After making the bottom screw hole (in the handguard) longer I was able to get the handguard flush with the receiver BUT this now meant that the screw hole for the sling loop was out of alignment and would not longer fit. The only options from here are to either make the holes in the handguard AND sling loop longer or grind down the screw that linked it all together. So I took a dremel with a grinding bit to the screw (not the threaded parts obviously) and ground off material from each 'side' of the screw making it almost square then rounding it off to finish. Once this was done it made small enough where it would just barely fit through the misaligned hole and allow it to screw into the sling loop on the other side. The key for anyone else trying this is to not take too much off at once, keep grinding off small amounts until it just to say fits. The handguard is now attached solidly and is just about flush as I think I could possibly get it. Annoying that you have to go through this on a ~£120 handguard but it is what it is.

Nothing new and still not finished but I managed to get the handguard mostly sorted on the G&G L85A2 ETU. Got a B&T/Airsoft Artisan dovetail to RIS optic rail coming in next couple of days. Airsoft Artisan flash hider coming in a couple weeks. Perun ETU++ to go into it tomorrow. The gun doesn't like my 11.1v buffer tube batteries and double cycles on semi however on my nunchuck 11.1v batteries it works flawlessly. On another topic, for owners of the gun, how do you arrange your batteries in this? There isn't a lot of space and i'm debating on taking out the gas block/gas tube to free up some space. Feedback on that appreciated. Also, should I disable the blowback? I've heard it can cause the gearbox to lockup on semi and there's potential for the little spring jumping into the gearbox.

Almost my biggest fear of playing airsoft! I wear a Delta Mike just because it's more breathable and doesn't cause condensation on the mouth protection like most other metal mesh mouth protection does. It still hurts getting shot in the cheek/side of the face though!

For a bit of information for anyone else who wants/needs the flash hider for a L85 Airsoft Artisan actually sells the flash hider on its own, not with the suppressor as a bundle. You can find it here for $28. It doesn't show in the L85 subcategory which is why I was confused. Some HK stores also have it in stock if you google "FHSA80".

Oof, that's a lot for a flash hider. I got my G&G L85 from the US because I couldn't find one anywhere else in the UK or EU (that was an ETU model) and they had the DD handguard in stock to go with it. This means the tip is painted blaze orange 😕 normally this wouldnt be an issue but it doesnt come with an all black one plus spares are hard to come by so I may have to resort to spraying it black unless anyone knows of any others that'll fit?

As per this review on Evike; "PLEASE READ! Evike needs to update the description on this. I bought this for my G&G L85 ETU, which is technically the version 2 of the G&G L85. This rail still does fit, but it does not fit flush." It appears that G&G may have changed something around where the adapter sits causing this issue. They've definitely changed how you remove the outer barrel anyway because I can't figure out how to remove that either. As a little update to the handguard; i've taken a dremel to the screw hole that's misaligned on the handguard and lengthened it. The screw is now in and the handguard is solid. Only downside is that there's a 2mm gap between the receiver and the handguard. While not effecting functionality it's annoying to see. I'll strip it down again tomorrow and check if even more dremeling will let it sit flush with the receiver or at that point will the sling loop bolt start causing issues which I suspect it will. This probably leaves me with two options; dremel/drill/file the sling loop securement point so it sits further back making it flush or make a spacer that hides the 2mm gap...

So I recently came into ownership of a G&G L85A2 ETU. I bought the Madbull handguard which has also arrived but I've ran into issues when attempting to assemble it. When I put the handguard onto the gun, attach then the sling loop the screw hole on the bottom of the gun doesnt line up in the handguard and I can't secure it meaning the handguard wobbles - pic related; If I nudge the handguard back up so the holes do align, I get a huuuuge gap between the handguard and the receiver of the gun. Could this be an issue with the way the adapter installs? - pic related; I would have assumed that the adapter block would sit flush over that ring of the outer barrel but the few pictures I can find of other peoples G&G is exactly like I have it, most of the videos/posts I can find about installing this are related to the ICS version so i'm kinda stuck.

What's the flash hider/muzzle device called? Been looking for one but the L85A2 has a much longer device than most AEGs.