MrTea

On my MP5, before I was doing my own tech work, I had a tech fit the cheapest mosfet they had (Gate Pico SSR3 - £15) just so I could run 11.1v LiPo safely. It has exactly zero features of the pricier MOSFETs and i've never had an issue with it to be honest. Having 13:1 gears and a HT motor means the trigger response is great anyway and i'd probably not gain a lot from going to a AB++ or a Hybrid.

Would something like this be of interest? Or like this?

Interested in a 260mm for the P90. Very interested to see how these perform.

Whew that's a nice looking gun!

Are you looking for a working gun (regardless of gearbox type) to pull apart and see how it works? I've got a CYMA CM.028A AK just sat in the corner doing nothing. It was boneyard as the previous owner snapped a screw hole which i've repaired with an original part. It works but sucks ass IMO because of the creaky cheap plastic.

LOL. I was looking at the RIF you bought too thinking "damn, for £100, should I???" but then realised AH boneyard sells quick and finished my checkout. By the time I came back you must have snagged it! I was interested in the WE glock too but just couldn't justify it atm.

If you don't like how it feels or handles, just wall hanger it? I managed to snag the ICS Sig552. Now I need to find mid-caps for it.

Did you change the bucking or barrel? Try going back to the stock bucking first. I've had bucking cause this exact issue when building my DMR. If the stock bucking is producing the same variation, change back to the stock barrel and try again.

Where'd you get that top if I may?

For the sake of ~£50/£60 I might experiment with this just to see if it's viable to get a 'good' spring shotgun on a budget.

I think shotguns would be a fun alternative to an AEG in CQB (not as a first RIF obviously) but the performance is what puts me off despite them being <£100. Can you do much (or anything) to spring shotguns to make them reach the higher end of UK limits? My understanding is their FPS is usually around 250fps and (on spring pump actions) and if you install stronger springs it makes the pump action really difficult from i've read. Most tri-shot shotguns are all fixed hop too right so are picky with what BB weight they'll use though I suspect some DIY could resolve this. At some point I'd love one of the APS shell ejecting shotguns but they're expensive

Warrior Pathfinder chest rig. 4x M4 mags, 2 utility pouches and molle space that fits another 2x M4 pouches or whatever you need. I've also used a Haley Strategic DC3R-X knock offs. 4x M4 mags, 4x pistol/40mm grenade pouches, 2x utility pouches. Currently having to figure out a different load-carrying style because P90 mags are looooong and will not work in my chest rigs.

Have you solved the issue of your tester rounds leaving behind the residue I told you about marring the floor of my local indoor arena? I'm almost out of the magflash rounds I bought and I'd love to get some more. The "large" flashbang tend to work the best when I bought some.

Only ever had it happen to me on the A&K Masada DMR that I've been building. A&K being a Chinese company appear to use different specs where ML rubbers don't work well. It never caused feeding issues just wildly inconsistent FPS; about 50-60fps difference across 10-20 shots. After all that of me acting like a smart-ass thinking i'd fixed it, the issue returned when I went to show it off. I grabbed my other P90 that's in a storage bag (which just so happens to be stock) and watched the nozzle as I fired it. That nozzle never stopped in the feed tube/port/window once in semi-auto where the CYMA P90 would regularly be visible, as can be seen in previous pics. Knowing that it's an SHS part the previous owner has installed, I had ordered a 20.75mm and 20.7mm nozzle so I tried that next and went straight to the 20.7mm nozzle knowing the SHS nozzle was 20.8mm. Took a full mag and fired it in full auto with no miss feeding. I'm hoping, praying, that I might have gotten to the bottom of it. Across 15 shots in semi the FPS is consistent at just over 300fps on 0.2g BBs with less than 4fps difference between highest and lowest reading which is surprising because the compression parts feel pretty poor and it's still using a plastic piston rack. I'll have a dig around for an M100 spring to get it closer to the limit and i'll re-try using the ML Macaron rubber to see if it still causes the feed issue.

As an interesting bit of info. I was picking peoples brains in different places and someone suggested just trying different hop rubbers before you rip open the gearbox again. I went back and grabbed the standard hop rubber and a prommy purple in addition to the ML Macaron already in place. It looks like with the ML Macaron, the feed lips are a tad too long and are protruding into the feed 'channel' enough to cause feeding issues. The first pic is basically how both the stock rubber and prommy purple rubber look, they're almost impossible to see as the lips are a tad shorter than the ML ones. I tested it by firing half a mag in semi auto (which worked fine) and then half a mag in full auto. The full auto struggled to keep up just because the gun is cycling that fast but never stopped feeding where I had to fire in semi or a small burst to get it to feed again. I could probably remedy this by using a .1mm or .2mm shorter nozzle while not preventing a proper airseal from being formed. Something to test going forward. Just got to get this into a skirmish and see how it performs. It's annoying I ran into this issue again and didn't think about it sooner. Had literally this exact thing happen when building my DMR.

I know how you feel. Missed that M14 on ActionHobbies boneyard, an ARP556 has appeared for sale, a FAMAS come up for sale... I love guns that aren't widely seen.

There used to be two A&K Masadas on there, both at the same price but with different problems. They've actually sold one. IDK who's pricing their boneyard but I want a bit of what they're having.

They're, usually, pretty rare to find floating around, you may find someone willing to sell you theirs but then you'd probably be paying over the odds. I'd say I got lucky when I got both of mine as they were cheap and not in too terrible of a condition. BespokeAirsoft have a A&K Masada in their boneyard which has a snapped stock release, missing selector and is electrically dead and they want £150 for it which is a joke IMO. If you don't want to fix anything and just want a RIF that works, then i'd suggest going for the ICS if you really want that Masada/ACR style of rifle.

PTS Magpul Masada is made by Ares and has many unique parts IIRC. If you want a Masada with more generic V2 gearbox parts you can try and get your hands on an A&K Masada. I own the carbine and SPR/DMR version and i'll say, you'll 100% need to upgrade the hop unit, it's hilariously shit and the stock nozzles are prone to breaking/cracking. AirsoftPro and Wiitech make full hop unit replacements however, in my experience, the AirsoftPro one is the superior of the two. I'd also suggest getting the 'loading nozzle' and 'air nozzle' to pair with it, also made by AirsoftPro. My carbine was a boneyard Masada that was completely dead. I went through the effort to rebuild and fix every little issue with it, including the wiring. Just waiting on the externals getting a custom paint job as it was extensively damaged. You can pick up A&K Masadas pretty cheap in most places but they're becoming increasingly rare and it's pushing prices higher plus spares are getting harder to come by. As stock the motors, compression parts and hop are absolute garbage. As for the ICS CXP-APE, I can't comment on the RIF performance as I don't own one but I know ActionSportHobbies has a few different version available between £400 and £450.

Pretty sure my local CQB place says shotguns are to be 3 BBs only IIRC. As for overshooting or semi-ROF I think it's; if you don't want it done to you, don't do it to someone else. If you're going to be a dick, you'll be treated like one so don't abuse ROF. If it takes one BB, then use one. Accidental overshooting happens from time to time but it's easy to tell who's doing it on purpose. That aside, i've seen one person running a shotgun at my CQB place. They shot me at almost point blank. It sucked but no more than your random HPA hi-capa bursting 3 rounds into you.

I thought that. The lighting looks different on the paper to the rest of the image. Strange.

It appeared to be when I was testing it. I have a CYMA replacement (current one is Guarder) coming in so I might swap it with that and see what, if any, difference it makes.

I used the CYMA mags it came with and some brand new King Arms ones. Mis-feeds on both.

Bought from another user on here who says it was only firing a BB every 2nd shot. I've re-shimmed, re-greased, replaced tappet plate, new hop rubber and nub. I've now got the RIF firing at the proper speed it should be for 13:1 gears, I believe the motor was adjusted too high, binding the gearbox causing it to fire sluggishly. Currently it has SHS nozzle, SHS piston, SHS 13:1 gears and Rocket high torque motor. The gear set already has a sector delayer on there and it has a new tappet plate so i'm not sure what else to do on the RIF itself. In my testing I found that it appeared to be feeding fine in semi but as I got through the magazine, it began to mis-feed. In full auto, even with a full mag, it struggles to feed. Do I need to buy some stronger springs for the mid-cap magazines so they can keep up with the RIF? I know I can get Maple Airsoft super feed springs but I don't want to throw £15 on three springs if the mags aren't the issue. I will note however that when I emptied the magazines, the BBs didn't race out like they usually do on my other mid-caps, it was noticeably slow. If the gun is simply too fast, I have some 14:1 gears I can try out next to see if it slows it enough to allow feeding. Ty.