concretesnail
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Posts posted by concretesnail
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Which lipo are you trying to fit and which tr16 model stock is it?
With out seeing it and assuming a crane type stock, I'd suggest making any excess for the rifs harness is kept to in the tube space and then drop the battery lead down and up the rear ff the stock pad, towards the tube. You should be able to make a gentle curve of the wiring so you don't kink it.
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I'd suggest trying to steer clear of any easy to function full auto simply as a lot of sites have issue with dmr use if ts fairly simple to get it to cycle full auto.
I would suggest an electrical fix though, partly as it'll also prevent the human element of trigger spam.
Perun ab++ has dmr modes and fire rate limiters which enforce cycle times regardless of how fast poke the trigger.
Admittedly it's not a zero cost part but neither is it a £100, I think they are £40ish.
A good friend of mine has just fitted an ab++ into a picky rif and the performance and reliability change was astounding.
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1 hour ago, B.S said:
My WW1 British kit is finally coming together... the S&T SMLE being a pretty key part of that.
Too clean, go and roll in that mud.
- RockerBear92 and B.S
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The kingdom might be worth a shot. Can't remember its days though off the top of my head.
- C-Diddy and Jacob Wright
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3 hours ago, Jay9876 said:
Like I said I’m new to the sport I only started about 3 weeks ago if high rps is seen to be “wanker” territory maybe I won’t go for a higher rps. That was the aim as I just want a really quick trigger response and a high fps to help with range.
That's good to hear. A sharper response from trigger press to bb release is easy to do by adding a precocking mosfet to the build. After the first priming shot the piston is then held at the point of release so the cycle time is after bb is fired rather than before.
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I had a similar issue a while ago and solved it by adding a shotgun comb to the stock.
- Paul72 and Tactical Pith Helmet
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52 minutes ago, BigStew said:
You can just makes it hard to remove the motor as you'll have to de-solder it every time. I would see if you can get parts 1st then worse case you can solder it directly.
Sorry I did mean say to add a connector on or fit it to an extra length of wire into the grip.
I got side tracked by the toddler I guess. (Brrains a nit mush)
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Can you solder a a direct connection on to the terminal, a spade connector tucked into the grip would be the same as one on the motor.
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16 hours ago, emit said:
Do you have a photo of what the end result looks like?
It's all I have to hand at the moment. It's what I use for fpv goggles power if I'm using more than the 2s the goggles can take as standard or I'm using a bigger battery I don't want strapped to the side if my head.
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A pistol lanyard would be a better option that a spiral cable. You can do it in a paracord sleeve with a core to prevent snagging and yanking on the cable.
I've done a few for lights, switches and some that include a step down for running 4s lipos in 2s systems (fpv goggles)
Have a good silicon shield cable slightly longer than the paracord outer, I use 550, then feed the cable as a fine paracord through the middle. Once the all threaded through melt the paracords together and add a little heat shrink. Then its just soldering the wiring together. And the battery goes in a pocket/pouch next to the lanyard fix point.
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What's the folding adaptor on the m4?
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It could be that the ptt output is mono and the adapter is stereo. The mismatch means very low volume. I had it when I connected my sporttacs to a baofeng fist mic using a stereo cable connection. Once I changed it to a mono cable connection all was resolved.
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1 hour ago, shadowfacex said:
I’ve got a question about headsets: got a pair of Motorola Talkabout T80 and with Earmor M32 headsets they transmit properly but the volume on the receiving end is seriously low, barely noticeable despite both transceivers being set to full volume (headsets too).
Could those PMRs be just simply underpowered? I have a personal license so could buy proper radios, but prefer not to replace them without a good reason, as they are solid otherwise.
How are you connecting them? Is it a 3.5mm jack?
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I'd solder a new connector, xt or deans would be much better than tamiya.
Which ever you can match with your chargers/other batteries.
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Another vote for the 5r, I used mine with the standard and fist mic and ear piece for a while then swapped out the ear piece for my sporttac ear Pro. I don't have the boom mic as I'm not a fan of them in general use as I always seem to get them hooked on things.
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Bin it. A good charger can be the difference between ashes and a home.
- Rogerborg, Paul72, Cannonfodder and 1 other
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It'll be the bbs causing it, the cheap bbs are usually poor. Stick to better quality bbs and you'll have fewer issues I'm sure.
Good good getting everything cleared.
Battery fit issues - TR16
in General Help
Posted
I know the stock, i have one too.
With that stock it can be tricky as the rubber pad effectively steals some space.
To make life easier long term id suggest removing the stock and unplug the mosfet, then unscrew the buffer tube (long screw driver needed inside the tube, castle nut is fake) then unplug the spade connectors freeing the mosfet and wires.
Once you have the mosfet out of the tube wrap the wiring around your finger a few times a, ease the wiring into a spiral. It'll use up the slack and not put any kinks in it. You'll also be able to get the mosfet connector back through it and the screw too when it comes to refitting.
lipo wise, if you can't two cells down one side then 1 cell will have to go in the centre tube. But the new spring type shape in the wiring should mean it'll squash down a bit easier.
sorry for the long post, a know a video might be easier but it's all I can offer at the moment.
if all else fails have a look at the pts eps,