Jump to content

concretesnail

Members
  • Posts

    657
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Posts posted by concretesnail

  1. You might not have to chanege the barrels, you should be able to change the rail system leaving them in place.

    Look for a rail system that includes the barrel nut and you you should be able to fit it and decide if you want a longer barrel, suppressor system extention or leave it as it is.

  2. Maple leaf, it what I tend to go for, work well and I had great results with a feiends ares honey badger using a w hold rubber.

    I usually use ak2m4.co.uk for pets parts and such and have never disappointed, and they usually have a good selection of aeg rubbers.

  3. As Hamster mentions, it sounds like you are pulling too many amps for that particular battery.

    If your battery compartment isn't big enough for the 2000mah 7.5v then you can either change the motor for a higher torque, fewer revs and pull less juice from the pack or use higher c batteries which are smaller but use more of them over the course of the day.

  4. I've had a simar issue.

    I use these leads with my sporttac. Like you k had a stereo lead for the when I'm using the headset at work and listening to my phone (audio books etc). The mics are often mono despite looking like a stereo plug and after switching to a mono cable when plugged into the mic it worked great. I wouldn't have been my first thought especially after opening the mic to check the wiring but I spoke to jci communication and the issue is on the peltor side.

     

    I now have a stereo lead in the van for work and a mono tied into my plate carrier for radio use.

  5. I've used the the mp7 but own the mp9. I didn't like the feel of the 7 as much as the 9.

    Performance wise there are options for both with upgrades, with at least two companies making drop in hop/barrel combinations for the mp9.

    Fps wise you might need to check the mp9, I have a cqb bolt in mine but it is possible to mod the flute valve of the standard bolt if you prefer that, I'm sure negative airsoft did one.

     

  6. I'd run it stock and see what it's like as is, then look to upgrade where performance possibly lacks.

    As far the parts you've listed already; I'd consider a zci over the promy, significantly cheaper not significantly less quality.

    I don't bother with maxx hop units, they can be very good but of late I haven't had much success with over zci rotary units.

    Spring for any need fps changes but do it after the rubber change, as there's no point in changing a spring if your air seal improves and you gain fps there.

    I've also had great success lately with adding perun mosfets and leaving stock motors in place, running precock with a short stroke gear so I'd play it by ear.

  7. Have a look at the mosfet options which could work for your particular setup. Although most of the performance gains can be done with physical mods it often easier to install a mosfet. The links of gate and perun units to grab quick upgrade to the trigger feel.

    I've found the perun units to be very good and offer the performance without the price tag.

  8. sorry for delay in replying here, work got in the way.

     

    A spring swap isnt really workable as a quick option as, as G&Gs idea of a quick change spring is to dismantle all but the gear box shell. it would be much quicker to pop the upper off and have a complete setup of hopup and inner barrel to drop in and then remove a section of outbarrel, in the same manner as fitting a tracer or such like, or like the TM Scar H has a outer barrel section which isnt required.

  9. Im in the middle,  few different rifs for different roles and sites, but leaning on function is what I like. I use warrior kit as its taken years of abuse but if its not something useful its not getting mount to a rif for style points.

×
×
  • Create New...