Adolf Hamster

can't say exactly, i just remember it's one of those "it's still not full!?" thoughts that came to mind. you will know when it's full though, it's not subtle.

fair enough, although i can still change my point to simply be a cornish summer versus scottish winter it can take a surprising amount of time from a completely empty mag, but it is supposed to spew gas (not liquid) straight from the start of the fill so you get as much liquid in there as possible.

ahh, hang on. that's a marui thing, the mag is meant to spew gas. you fill it until it starts spewing liquid which is how you know it's full. it can take a while for an empty mag but i think the idea is you can top up easier without over-filling. pretty nifty system, only other company i've seen use it was the 40-mike had the same type of valve.

tbh, and others may disagree, but if it's not spewing gas everywhere when cycling then frankly i'd be happy enough with that kind of performance. for me at least any gun that can mag dump its way through the RS equivalent of bb's (so for a 1911 that's 7 rather than however many the mag holds) outside of winter is good enough gas effeciency.....

i really hope he didn't get charged that given the titan comes with deans fitted as standard..... £50 for that lot on ak2m4, leaves some schmeckles for a warfet if you want precocking for better trigger response, not much point in a titan for a semi only build. gotta feel for the poor fella if he's reading all this, only thing i can think can make it up is the cerakote, but then i have no experience with how much that sort of thing costs.

you're getting 2 full mags from 1 fill and this is a problem? edit: also be wary of reviews, the guy writing it might have done so in the middle of an arizona summer, which isn't a fair comparison to a british spring.

so we're combining a titan with nuprol.....

now now chaps we all know there are rules. you must appoint your seconds and organise a date before engaging in handbags at 20 paces

in the message top-right there's 3 dots, same as are on regular forum posts that pop up a menu with a button to report to the admin. up here ^

so am i reading this right: you built it yourself, there was presumably a wiring short, causing a fire and this is the gearboxes fault?

i *may* have had a similar moment, except instead of my pew getting catapulted it went straight for my ribs. fortunately wasnt hard enough to break any bones and surprisingly the gun was just fine too.

earwax does sound like the dried up box of a wallhanger. just don't remove it and it's fine....

also worth avoiding open dots (ones where the emitter and glass are seperate) you get one blob of rain on the emitter and bye bye ability to aim

it's been debated on here before, supposedly akin to being hit by a tennis ball (a statement i'm glad isn't from personal experience) the impact ones seem the scariest, insta-boom on contact feels like it's begging for some poor sod to peek a window at the wrong time. tbh you don't really see them much in skirmishes, it's more of a milsim thing.

i've had some guides that were threaded, or had a bolt hidden in one end or the other. press fit does make sense.

well that's a new one how was it meant to be attached? i've never figured out how you're supposed to remove it intentionally.

the square railed 226 is quite a tight fit in the nuprol paddle holster (presumably due to being setup for sig's curved rail), however if you leave the pistol in the holster when storing after a while of use it'll loosen up.

the stock e&l cylinders to seem rough but they tend to still have great compression regardless. the nozzle at full extension is a curious one. tbh though sounds like the culprit is more likely the nozzle-hop seal, either rough/torn feedlips or the nozzle isn't contacting the feedlips well enough. assuming you've checked the above and the new nozzle is the correct length then maybe it's hop unit positioning. if you're using the default screw system for hop mounting then the outer barrel position is important, if the outer is sitting slightly forward and you have the hop bolted to the barrel and not the box then the whole unit is sitting forward just enough to cause a leak. if you do plan on changing hop units then the combat union is the best i've seen for the ak platform.

fair enough, figured they'd be painted. the e&l's are about 1.5mm but then there's thicker sections spot welded inside to re-enforce.

warfet is a good shout, although it may still twang after a burst in auto if it settles in the wrong position. 105 length then? if that's the stock cylinder should be close enough, the compression tends to be pretty good on the stock hardware although the pistons aren't the greatest. you will need to adjust the aoe if you move from the stock mushroom head to a more conventional head, the mushroom is a bit thicker than normal. i have a suspicion, although no proof, that harder gearbox materials in e&l dampen everything down less, would explain why lct boxes are so damn noisy despite the shells being pretty decently made (just a shame the contents of the lct boxes aren't so good) ofc could still be things like shimming, or even just letting it bed in a bit, but sounds like gear whine isn't so much the problem.

they're tag shells, think a big nerf dart with explosives in it

pretty much this. it'll still twang in semi even with an aftermarket spring, but a precocking mosfet will sort that out no problem. i agree on the stock motor, it's very good certainly equivalent to the likes of the asg basic you get in an evo. has the previous owner worked on it? of the brand new ones i've seen they're really quite smooth ootb but that's a small enough sample size not to be conclusive. what length are we talking? a krink length could be you're getting barrel pop?

Could well be, but i preferr my version of events