Adolf Hamster

yeah, the thing i'd probably be most concerned with is how well they work with AB, i know it's a motor killer generally but i'd be more worried about the electronics than the actual motor itself. iirc the electric rc stuff uses motor braking although their control setup is a bit different (with the controller being pretty big compared to the warhead) and needless to say they aren't getting the same stop/start usage an airsoft gun would use.

i must confess to being curious about those, brushless was pretty well established in the rc world by the time i started airsoft but given in this hobby folk are still using nimh it doesn't surprise me it's taken this long for brushless to arrive.

yeah, question between convenience or performance i guess.

i guess it's good to hear afghanistan is trading 7.62x39 for 5.95?

looking at that, might be better to print it on it's side so the bolt holes are going through the layers too?

umm, you know we done got a buying and selling setup on here?

Other possibility- if the mag is venting on insertion before even firing try engaging the safety first see if that solves it. That would confirm that its the knocker as the makarov safety lifts the knocker so it should miss the valve.

So the mag is venting when you try to fire?

fair point, the "off" setting on the stock makarov hop is very much on the loose side.

heavier ammo will help with range, and you can get it to lift .32's without bumping the power up. i wouldn't bother with an S-hop, a lot of effort to give you a shorter-lived solution to a maple leaf/omega combo, although try the stock tm setup to see if it can do it already. power is a tricky one, because as much as folk like to praise the tm fairy dust, it aint gonna make up for running a 0.6j gun on a 1.3j field.

sounds like a fill issue, the makarov does have pretty bad cooldown but indoors you should still be able to make it halfway through the mag before it starts really struggling.

also a strong contender for "tidy yer goddamn room" award.

i mentioned it in the other thread but a mate of mine has a WE m16 and the 2 main issues he's run into are the sear wearing down in the trigger and the nozzle jumping out of alignment and smashing itself. however for the most part i think it's otherwise been fine, and he's the kind of fella that does tend to be rough on his gear. if you were only getting an m4 it would be so easy to say go for an mws, but as you're really wanting an l85 then you're kind of in a similar boat to me with the dragonuv- WE is your only option for that platform.

i have a bit of a theory about the WE stuff. i think their reputation for being bad/having issues comes primarily from their AR variants with 2 key areas, firstly the longer bolt travel with a relatively slender tube means the end is more prone to wobble if the fit/finish isn't there leading to smashed bolt heads, and the AR trigger group lends itself to having a lot of cast (read: pot metal) parts which wear out easily. however whilst this has garnered them a reputation for wearing out/breaking, i'm not sure it'd be as bad on an ak. one of the things i noticed about the dragonuv trigger group (which afaik should be relatively similar in concept to the ak) is because the parts are more condusive to using bent strips of steel that's what they've used which suggests it'll wear better. likewise the fatter bolt with a shorter stroke lends itself better to not wiggling out of alignment and smashing itself. of course overall the quality won't be the same as the ghk, but then that's why the ghk is more expensive, especially externally which is why i suspect the default answer leans more towards ghk because if you're gonna be spending a lot of money to go gbbr then you might as well go the extra mile.

fair enough, sounds like it's an alu reciever version. it's a tricky one to price, a rare beast, iirc mine was £350 for the steel version with polymer furniture although current pricing is hard to gauge with the rarity of these things. the setup you have there i'd be tempted to say starting in the £280-300 range with the mags and scope, although as mentioned i don't have the most solid frame of reference for saying that.

on the subject of zenitco'd aksu's grabbed a combat union hop and flash hider for my latest acquisition.

always something i wondered about is getting pulled over on the way to an airsoft game and having to explain why i have enough gats in the boot to invade a small country

i heard road trip!

Now that is a 200iq strat if ever i heard it

'evening you planning to take the kids out for a game? it's quite fun when the target is allowed to shoot back

sewing a pocket and adding a builder-style foam pad is absolutely viable, if you have the requisite sewing skills. i do preferr trouser mounted as it's the least intrusive method. that said, currently i don't use knee pads, but my game style generally allows that if i need to kneel i'm not doing it in a hurry nor being particularly mobile in a kneeled position.

tbh i reckon the shop will take a quick glance, decide it's not that bad, and stick it right back on the shelf.

hmm, if it's doing it with no load on the motor (assuming the motor spins freely) then it's either busted wiring causing a short, or the mosfet is dead.

Make sure its not something like the piston jamming (either clamped in the case or smacking the spacer) and that everything is able to spin freely. Otherwise, if you dont have ab enabled, it could have overrun and applied some precocking which is too much startup load for the motor? Also this is a good lesson on why fuses or a mosfet with a cutoff are a good idea- better you find out this way than find out when something starts sizzling.