Adolf Hamster

did you calibrate it in the software? that'll give you a pretty good idea what the unit thinks it's seeing when you move the selector.

snails are just slugs who've made it onto the property ladder. so yes......

guess it depends on how you played the sport. if you were in it more for the tinkering and less about the playing then getting to the endpoint of performance pretty much ends the enjoyment, especially if you've been playing long enough to see the same old problems just go around in circles.

pretty much as above. some aftermarket designs do things differently, modify brand barrels for example skip the brass ring and have it as a machined part of the barrel. likewise the likes of the combat union hop unit uses a collet style system that allows you to properly clamp a barrel in tight. some different style of guns don't use springs, ak's for example tend to use either spacer blocks or have the hop unit bolted directly to the gearbox although you can sometimes bodge a spring in there, or some designs just attempt to have the hop unit sitting tight in the gun (with varying levels of success)

no hpa?

think it's less having the right idea, as more adapting to the requirements/limitations of the platform. standard m4 ergonomics make a lot more sense when you need things like the buffer tube and gas tube for the gun to work and recoil is a thing.

as a general rule the best thing to do for reliability for most airsoft guns is not mess with it. don't think i've ever seen a failure from a truly stock gun, even the "stock" guns i've seen fail are normally the result of an fps downgrade done very shoddily by a retailer (either a really weak spring or the dreaded cylinder hole) yes trigger contacts will be an issue, how long depends on what type of battery your running but a higher powered lipo will burn them out faster, lighter powered batteries you could use it for years and only need the occasional scrape to get the carbon off. i'm not that familiar with aug's (so owners can chime in if i've got this wrong) but you should be dealing with a standard v3 box with wacky trigger externals. the internal contacts for semi will be the ones likely to burn out but *should* be standard components, the externals contacts will be unique although if it is based on the jg then there's probably spares in the wild somewhere. a mosfet is a possibility, and despite the weird trigger external mosfets (eg the gate nano/warfet etc) can be wired in, although wether you want to do that depends on how happy you are weilding a soldering iron. not sure on internal mosfets but that's a bit beyond what you'd be wanting to look at for the time being anyway. otherwise a v3 box is a v3 box and will take your standard gearbox internals no fuss. the hop unit being plastic isn't necessarily bad in and of itself, generally with hop units it's quality and tolerancing trump the given materials. tbh having said all that what i'd seriously suggest you do is this: clean the barrel (bit of microfibre on a plastic cleaning rod) and get in the habit of keeping it clean give it good food don't take it apart don't change or add any bits just play with it as-is once you've gotten established and grabbed yourself another pew then you can start thinking about tinkering. it's not the best idea to go messing around when you don't have a backup and trust me the walk of shame with a broken pew gets old the tenth time you've done it. plus once you've played a bit you'll have a better idea as to what direction you want to take your tinkering in depending on how you naturally end up playing.

you mean magnitude and direction

then various video games had them as a meme gun which kept the party going.

inb4 you were pulling the trigger wrong..... which in fairness is a possibility with a 2-stage

yeah pme tends to be rather dramatic. the other possibility is he's referring to the effect of a partial pre-cock caused by the motor not stopping immediately, pretty much guaranteed to some extent on anything without active brake and all it really does is make the gun a tad more responsive in semi (precocking is pretty much controlled overspin to stop the motor at a defined point right before the piston drops). in extreme cases that can roll over to a second shot which is your double shooting.

does appear that model does do cutoff, which would certainly be a prime suspect. even assuming it's able to properly distinguish between a 7.4v and 11.1v and apply the correct shutoff voltage (ie that it's not shutting off on the 7.4v because it's using the 11.1v cutoff) then it can still be shutting off under load. it's very normal for a battery to have a lower voltage when supplying a given load (ie firing) than what you'd read in a static test. how much lower depends on a variety of factors such as the capacity of the battery, it's C rating and overall quality as well as the draw requirements of the gun itself. the predators may well have a less stringent (including nonexistent) cutoff, or a lower amp draw which would allow the gun to run even if that same battery sets off the lmg's cutoff.

well that is indeed different. i guess it's a case of trading the convenience of quick swapping from whatever your primary is for the inconvenience of having your trousers constantly lop-sided. i mean i find pistols annoying when belt-mounted can't even imagine this.....

four thought? i can barely manage one thought at a time....

assuming he's referring to pme there's a few signs, ranging from some nasty sounding crunching, a drop in fps on full auto compared to semi, or the easy to diagnose whirr of death after the piston/sector gear teeth decide to go on a tour of the gearbox casing.

i assume given his whole "super sneaky sniper" persona it's probably going to be sold around the "they don't rattle" tagline. which in fairness i can agree with, screw hicaps.

in fairness, he hasn't put one of those godawful m4 mag adaptors on it. turns out even novy boy has standards......

yeah, i've always been a sucker for plum and the airsoft versions just aren't quite right. thanks man, you've been a great help here

all the marks are the same- an arrow (archery type of arrow) in a triangle. they do look very dark under artificial light, but you can see the plum a bit better in daylight. yeah, it's got "102" and "I" marked on it. not sure if the raised marks in the middle are meant to be anything or just some general patina. will keep that in mind, probably give it a shot here first just for convenience (read: not having to make an fb account)

tried taking them on my desk under the daylight lamp, still not really showing the colours up as well. did notice one of the mags does have some markings on it: yeah, it's very much towards the niche end of the market. but i can afford to wait around for interested parties to show up. same kind of thing with the gun, often folks who'd be interested in that kind of thing have already built/comissioned their own.

there's 2 ways of going about improving trigger response (aka lock time). first is as you've suggested doing things like bigger batteries, faster motors or taller gearing. this will have the dual effect of reducing the cycle time in semi-auto and also increasing the full auto rate of fire. depending on how far down that road you go you can run into issues such as pme, which require more in depth methods to solve such as short-stroking. the other method is to use electronics, mosfets with a precock function will reduce lock time but without increasing the auto rof. a lot less involved mechanically although it does mean hammering the motor with active braking which can get them running hotter and shorten their lifespan. physical binary triggers afaik don't exist, it's only a product of an optical mosfet. however i would question the motives of anyone who wanted to use one in the field rather than just showcasing in the safe zone.

green gas is the order of the day then. just keep the mags gassed, odd dash of silicone and jobs a goodun it won't work as well in colder weather (guns with metal slides like WE will suffer before guns with lighter slides/better qc like tm) but as a holster filler just fine.

whilst i won't deny that pistol fits the op's requirements, looks nice and feels good to shoot it does have a bit of a caveat of when it works in the long run these things inevitably trend towards venting gas. personally, if it's just for a holster filler/occasional pot shot then the WE stuff is decent enough for that purpose (depending on model ofc, the luger isn't even decent for that). op- what particular style of pistol takes your fancy? as that might help folk narrow in on a specific model.

oh great, now he's ruining guns i like......

yeah she was a gen 2, main reason for mentioning uk stock is that they were much cheaper pre-brexit but that's now dried up. i paid 405eur+postage for her which would have £350 being about the new price. although granted that does avoid the wait time for importing (took several months to get that one) i'll see about grabbing some more pictures tomorrow. there's not much going on in the way of trench art, and a few dings and scrapes to the plastic. the baseplates have seen some corrosion to the point that the first thing i did was pull the lot and give them a soaking in wd. marbling pattern is gonna be a bugger to photograph as it doesn't really show up properly without daylight. i'd kind of be thinking the split would be something along the line of gun sans mags, mags on their own, and optic on it's own.