Adolf Hamster

i appreciate the advice, i get what you're saying that the tappet plate could be hitting the cylinder and stretching it.

there's no tappet "window" on this box per say, it's a really strange design (a 2 peice split with the handguard being it's own unit with all the gears and the top being a big rectangular box with the cylinder/tappet)

the brass clip is more like a washer- it's mounting hole is dead centre and there's about 2.5-3mm extra draw, and it's coupled with the longest nozzle i've seen on an AEG (think double m4 length)

like i say, gun is bone stock, i wouldn't even have had it apart if it hadn't eaten the tappet plate (after about 15k rounds), so atm i'm suspecting either a weak tappet plate or too strong a return spring being the main culprits.

only other possibility is given the handguard unit is a seperate peice maybe it slid out of position when being carried and made the difference.

The window I refer to is how that 7mm or 8mm sits and allows feed/sealing

if you had a nozzle too short you will have lovely feeding but $hit seals

if you had a nozzle that was too long you get great seals but $hit feeding

so all this crap is about ensuring the nozzle is correct length

(which it probably is)

and then ensuring the "window" or where the tappet/nozzle moves

allows the correct "window" position of nozzle retracting/returning

if it is operating say more than 0.5mm out of whack/position

you will get either feed/seal issues

retracting tappet too far trying to compensate or increase stuff

runs the risk of smashing crap out of tappet if not checked

or at the very least wearing out the fin very very quickly

That window wasthe where there 7 or 8mm movement is sitting bang on

not a rear inspection window like many v2's have

ensuring it all operates within the correct position/window/tolerance  etc...

yeah, it's a very long nozzle due to the hop design, and i suspect they have the long stroke on the tappet to keep feeding issues down, not sure why it's such a strong spring as it's not like it needs to deal with midcaps.

she shoots and feeds incredibly well, so it's safe to assume they're right with the nozzle/stroke combination. although i still think the spring is way too strong which might be why it died.

we'll see how this new plate works out, and if it eats that one i'll swap the spring out for a weaker one and check it's not bottoming out

I'm going for a lighter setup, so ive swapped the awesome but heavy vltor rail for an moe hanguard so i bought a gas block rail so i can still attatch the bipod and i've also decided to get a proper flip to side mount rather than the qd mount i have for the magnifier.

Also an sa80 sling so i dont have to constantly switch the one off the f2000

I love my MOE Handguard. Fits my battery perfectly and is so much lighter than the other rails I have. Looks great too imo. 

I'm rear wired, because its bad enough dissassembling a king arms m4 without front wiring, but its made the gun so much more pointable.

Meanwhile the f2000 still isnt feeding, the sig is shooting harder than most rifles, the 1911 is still leaking gas and the mg has eaten its own tappet plate.

Airsoft life eh?

after todays performance i quite believe it, although admittedly part of that is because i screwed up and got caught by the ol' v2 eating it's own wires mistake.

It sucks when that happens V3 boxes are so much better.

lol, i'll bear that in mind for when this decides it isn't going to run any more, although i need to stop spending money on airsoft for the time being.

i think it's just my curse, as soon as i get a gun running sweet i feel the need to mess with it and end up breaking something. plan was the mosfet that was in there was going into the mg but i think i'll hold off on that until after sunday

Its only a crease, Iron it back out.... I'll see myself out. 

£60 - what one did ya blow up ???

thought Gate Titan's came pre-wired or part pre-wired

It isn't the soldering iron so much

well unless you are using a 50w chisel tip with plumbers solder

It is the technique mostly apply too much heat for too long etc....

Twas one of those whole trigger unit jobs, first fitting it ate its own wiring so i re-did it and it died. Not sure if it was already dead before i made the new loom or not.

Its a 40w pointy tip iron, wasnt the soldering itself killed it as i was patching onto the original cables

This is my punishment for angering the gods of "if it aint broke leave it the feck alone"

lol, i've just had to completely re-do the wiring and it's still not working, so maybe i shouldn't mess with these things

Echoing my own thoughts.

indeed, always the way- gun doesnt work, you fix it, gun does work you try to improve it and end up breaking it.

and the cycle continues....