Adolf Hamster

why do you need to discharge them?

conversation was a while back, but iirc we ended up reckoning the cost was probably the major factor, ie it'd be cheaper to buy the lower density polymer and mix in additives (especially if that same density polymer is what's used on a lighter bb in the product range)

remember having this conversation with a colleague who knows a lot more about polymers than me, the bits i understood seemed to suggest there's a lot of density change possible with neat polymer by changing the chain lengths. although we ended up reckoning that mixing in particles was equally feasable especially for the higher densities.

i know the feeling man only just noticed in the op that you mention the ARL isn't so good on that gun, might be the noise you're hearing is the spring pushing back and the gun's running backwards when it'd otherwise be caught by the arl. although again that wouldn't really damage it, just doesn't sound nice.

pretty much this. how much a hop can lift can ofc be changed, depending on how far you want to go. usually the .28-.32g range tends to be the balance folk end up at for assault style guns outdoors as a balance between decent performance and being affordable for the kind of round count you typically would be using.

What i'm meaning is that overspin on its own isnt really an issue. If there's no pme in auto and it's not locking up/double firing in semi then tbh a bit of overspin is just free precocking (precocking being just intentional controlled overspin)

so it's over-spinning, but not enough to cause a double fire? tbh that's relatively normal, especially for motors with weaker magnets and/or no use of active braking. overspin on its own won't really damage a gun although it can be the cause of lock-ups in semi auto depending on where the system stops, what would be of more concern is PME in auto.

think the biggest obstacle in discussing game scenarios/idea's is how well a given scenario plays out is as much a factor of the site (layout, obstacles, environment, size etc), the marshalling staff (their ability to explain and enforce rules), and the playerbase (the number of players, the regular/visitor balance and the willingness of the regulars/visitors to get into the spirit of a new game mode) for example, a simple fall back game- there's a long but thin (inb4 ooh matron...) strip of forest as the game zone. attackers start at one end- get hit you fall back X paces then back in, get one man to the end building/flag/zone and it's game over defenders start wherever they want- get hit you fall back X paces and your back in but you can't advance. once you've been pushed back into the final zone then it's down to 1 life. not exactly the most complicated ruleset. and when played with people who either knew, or at least listened to, the rules it works pretty well. however the number of times you'd find folks ignoring the whole "don't advance as a defender" bit and it would ruin the game, as it'd just bog down into a pointless stalemate, with the usual suspects of cheating/overshooting etc soon bubbling up as peoples frustration mounts. likewise, that same (or similar enough) scenario on different sites, where the terrain made the game zone either less clear-cut or the area was wider making defending from flanking infinitely more difficult, it'd end up with one player flanking (possibly out of bounds if the game zone was ill-defined/that player didn't bother listening in the brief) and just walking up to the flag and game over. play it on a site with a tight choke point (ie not wide enough to push against one side of the line to force a breakthrough) and we're back to the aforementioned pointless stalemate. or as an even better example- every attempt at introducing an airsoft version of trouble in terrorist town immediately results in a free for all death match as nobody bothers understanding the rules or implementing tactics beyond "we don't know who the enemy team is- just shoot everyone"

fair enough, as long as it's not mouse-fart levels of silence required then aeg can do the job, although admittedly it makes getting setup a bit trickier. tbh, i'd start with working on the usual accuracy areas- good ammo, good hop/barrel, get the air seal as good as possible, then worry about getting the energy dialed in once you're sure that any stronger spring isn't wasted sending air anywhere but behind the bb. in terms of gear noise, a good shim job will definitely go a long way to do that. the process isn't so much difficult as it is laborious once you get the hang of the process, plenty of guides out there on yt and such. for trigger response, well assuming we're talking locked to, or predominantly used in (i'm assuming you're eu based by the sounds of it) semi auto then the best starting point is a mosfet with precoking, followed up by a motor with some decent pickup speed. that'll do a lot for the "feel" in semi auto. how you go about that kinda depends on your budget and how much you want to mess around with, for example, rewiring.

how quiet do you want? there's only so much quiet you can get out of an aeg, especially an AR variant with a tight fitting body (as opposed to a chunky bullpup body you can fill with foam) if HPA is a viable option for you (ie you can get refills) then that may be an avenue worth contemplating, as it'll deal with your quietness and snappy response requirements in one (comparatively speaking) easy step.

As above, the a&k pkm box is the pretty much the same their m60 and aside from the casing/bearings/wiring connector it uses standard internals.

What do you mean? From my perspective it just got interesting?

yeah, can be fun to delve into this sort of thing, tbh i'm surprised it's that small myself figured it'd be a more major component.

yes the angular velocity is a bit of an unknown. in the spreadsheet i made a while back i ended up having to go with a macro and goal seek to just brute force it, hence the whole "20cm of rise" caveat as there needed to be a fixed goal to look for. although tbh a few corners were cut, eg the magnus force was simplified to the force for a cylinder of equivalent cross section rather than doing it properly and splitting it up into increments, or the very oversimplified drag model that treated air as an incompressible fluid. but then i was doing it because i was bored/curious so an approximation was good enough for the aforementioned 1j of muzzle energy and 20cm of rise criteria it would come out as: 63.67 rad/s for 0.2g 79.54 rad/s for 0.25g 97.03 rad/s for 0.3g 133.46 rad/s for 0.4g 173.293 rad/s for 0.5g it's part of the reason why as mentioned, heavier=better doesn't always hold true practically, when the losses in the hop to acheive sufficient spin drop the energy enough to the point where a lighter bb from the same gun would go further. fun anecdote- it's possible to have 2 "sweet spots" for hop, first when you've just enough pressure to get the spin, then turning the hop on further results in the expected overhop, but go too far and the energy will drop to the point where it'll meet a second spot, with a much higher spin but lower energy. although more usually by the time you get to that point the gun just jams.

huh?

damn you, making me have to go do math...... so for 0.5 seconds of flight time, with a muzzle energy of 1j and hop set for ~20cm of rise above muzzle: a 0.2g bb will lose 0.002406j due to gravitational potential energy and 0.9j due to drag forces a 0.5g bb will lose 0.006015j due to gravitational potential energy and 0.58j due to drag force granted that's a very oversimplified calculation based on simply the flight time (ie not counting energy that would accelerate the bb upwards to get that 20cm of rise), but then the drag model is pretty over-simplified as well. however the point is it's a negligible amount compared to the primary force which is the conventional drag.

except that is very very literally what the magnus effect does to an airsoft bb.....

best i can make out that's probably a good analogy. seems they're switching to a cast rather than machined casing (shouldnt affect performance too much tbh) and moving to machine winding, which i don't know enough about motors to know how big an impact that'll have.

now there's a reference that's making me feel old now.... currently going through the outer worlds, been on my list for a while and picked it up on sale. not gotten too far into it yet but seems to be if fallout did a borderlands pre-prequel, which sits well with me having enjoyed fallout3/NV (haven't got around to 4 yet) and having sunk more time into the borderlands franchise than i'm willing to admit. doing my usual trick of a relaxed easy mode/relatively peaceful playthrough for the sake of enjoying the plot before messing around with specific builds/characters later on. tbh i'm just glad of any game that has more than 2 hours of plot to it in favor of the lazy development option of making a couple of big maps and adding a battle royale mode.

i wouldn't worry about upgrades in the short-term. the reason negative (at the time, he seems to have moved away from them) reccommends the warfet is because the customers he deals with (as a professional tech) generally aren't too into teching on their own guns, and a mosfet that can be hot-swapped between guns easily, or re-programmed very quickly in the field. the titan is a connoisseurs component, and a whilst it's a good bit of kit. but it's not something you want in your gun unless you have the background knowledge to set it up properly (which also means having the rest of the gearbox up to code), and deal with any issues that arise. what i would suggest as others have mentioned is to start off renting for a few games, see if you like the hobby enough to stick it out. once you have your ukara setup you'll be able to order a non 2-toned pew which is a bonus. i'd hang back from dropping too much money until the honeymoon is over, the reality is that generally speaking the supermegahighend pews aren't that much better than cheaper pews because at the end of the day there's only so much precision can be extracted from what boils down to an air powered smoothbore musket. it's also worth considering that you need more than just the gun, there's batteries, chargers, magazines, loaders, ammo, eyepro, good boots (seriously, good boots are worth the effort to figure out), camo (entirely optional but generally preferred for outdoors), load carrying gear, and any optics/flashlights/lasers/bipods/slings you might want to stick on the gun. if you're gonna drop £400 on the hobby then a £400 gun on its own won't be nearly as enjoyable as a £150 gun with £250 worth of various accessories, and i say that having made that exact mistake.

for posterity i'd like to point out that whilst i'll use popcorn memes as a tool for communication i generally preferr my snack foods to taste better than their container...... which is why i now have a bag of maltesers sorrynotsorry

at this point should we maybe rename this thread to the grand unified theory of airsoft? i think so far the only topic we haven't taken a tangent into is the #knownfact that tm recoils don't abide by normal physics oh bugger....

thought i had it for a while there, but now i'm definitely lost again.

yep, definately 2 different conversations going on here..... at this point i'm not even sure what the point that's trying to be made is