Adolf Hamster

getting into the territory of personal preference. generally for a forward mounted optic a gas block replacement with an integrated rail tend to have adjustments that let you lock everything down tight for zero retention. ofc how much zero retention you care about in an airsoft pew is a different story, and if you're moving the optic to other guns then it's irrelevant anyway as you'd need to readjust on fitting. you may find that fitment won't be ideal, it's pretty normal for ak furniture to have a degree of fettling required to fit nice and tight on a given body.

tl:dr use geoffs.....

Unless cyma have decided to be weird about it, and i dont see why they would then that is how its supposed to come off (copies the original)

it's entirely plausible that some guns will be better at handling bad ammo. especially as you start pushing for more performance they can become fussier eaters.

many?

I'm inclined to agree. There may well be something else going on, but ammo is a relatively easy thing to take out of the equation.

the skeptic in me does wonder how often this is genuinely an insurance requirement rather than a hand-waving exercise. because if the insurance were going into such specifics then it'd be more than just co2 on the list to be banned.

which isn't an excuse.

sounds like they've decided banning hardware is the easy solution to the problem of asshole players which fills me with confidence over the standard of play.....

it's a tricky one, as all guns do tend to sound different naturally, depending on the gearing, the motor etc. can be very subtle. loose isn't so much the problem as tight, which would drag on the motor. that said, it doesn't sound like it'd be tight enough to halt a 7.4v.....

does kinda sound like she's stopping a bit quicker than she should. shims can be tricksy hobbitses, one drops free when opening up and will almost always drop such that it looks like it came from a different spot to where it was originally.

no mosfet and if as @MagpieTactical says this battery has suggested this battery has given issues in another gun then i'm inclined to blame that. a checker can be very handy for situations like these, see not only the total output but also if perhaps a cell has decided to give up (some chargers have been known to fail on one charging circuit and kill a battery this way). the only other explanation would be if it's been tinkered with and something like the shimming is tight, then it might not have the juice to spin on the 7.4, although it would also sound labored on the other batteries.

is there a mosfet involved?

just match to the battery then. tamiya connectors can be weird in airsoft, they tend to be wired reverse to RC batteries so it's not a given that the colours match. presumably for the same reason as the eclectic wire colouring- because electrical engineers are a strange bunch. as long as you keep track in your mind (write it down if needs be) which goes where then that'll do the job. if the motor runs backwards just swap the wires over problem solved. you could try swapping the o rings over, see if that does it, there's other tricks like stretching the o rings or swapping them out for one slightly oversize. that's an alu head isn't it? i know some of the plastic mushroom heads have issues with the texture of the plastic giving a poor seal but the alu one shouldn't. never needed to cut a window and the only box i've had the luxury of viewing the motor mesh is the open bottomed a&k mg boxes, which funnily enough are awful for accumulating dirt+crap in them. start by getting the idler and sector shimmed down as far as they'll go (working on the left hand half of the box) and such that they're running free even when the box is tightened up and tilted all different directions. that'll give you the most wiggle room on the bevel to go up/down as needed, then shim that as above (so you know your starting point of say 1mm total, then you can swap shims from one side to the other to move it up and down) you can try the bevel in the right half with the motor cage in position to give a very rough starting point, then it's just try it, adjust, try it again. running the motor with just the gears can give an idea of how much noise there is, how smooth everything is sounding etc. once you've got the bevel height where you want it, check how much overlap there is between the pinion and the idler and if necessary raise the idler/sector just to keep a decent overlap (ie that you're not driving on only half the teeth)

Aye thats the proper way to check it. Also good to hold it in different orientations see if theres any friction when they move. The movement itself isnt so bad as long as it doesnt allow them to move into a position where they're scraping. I'll also then try the piston in (sans-spring) to feel how smooth the pickup is after setting aoe.

Red is conventionally positive. If you get it wrong then the motor will try to run backwards which wont be good (well, it wont kill anything it'll just get stuck on the arl, obviously dont hold the power on it) Whilst you can solder directly to the motor its generally handy to use connectors so you can remove it to change as needed and not have to worry about it dangling off the gearbox while your working for it. With deans there's a +ve mark on them (cant remember which of the 2 it is come to think of it) and its good to stick to that so that if you get a battery with pre-soldered deans then it'll run right.

Tightness is better established by feel, before final assembly clamp just the gears up in the shell. Often its a case of what seems perfect when you have the shell just sitting there then when its compressed by bolting it together it locks up.

Sounds not too bad, not sounding tight at least. Double firing as you say some active breaking (and why not add precocking while your at it) would solve that.

yeah, thing is getting one in the first place *grumbles in 1j limit*

it's an ak with a galil stock and some generic polymer furniture? ironically the right folder is a good idea for a siderail optic, except it doesn't have a siderail. as a general rule cyma ak's tend to be solid enough, not amazing but as @Samurai says a workhorse do-what-you need-it-to kind of gun.

is it a RS (or at least, an RS-intended repro)? as if so then there is an element that the zeroing range on RS optics is a lot less than you'd typically see in airsoft due to the expected level of base precision. doesn't mean there isn't droop, just that it might not just be that.

always kinda felt that way too, although i still want a nagant. sadly the only one on the market seems to be the triple whammy of not particularly shiny externals, unobtanium, and you have got to be joking fps........

i just use some stuff i ordered from RS ages ago, came on 30m reels and still have loads of it sitting around. well, that and a box of assorted lengths of wire......

indeed it is. sounds like maybe with the barrel being off horizonal it might also have been off in the vertical, which ended up causing rubbing on the nozzle, so tightening the hop unit down has helped pull it back into alignmens. surprised that only really manifested in auto though.