Adolf Hamster

i've played a couple of scenarios like this. the biggest obstacle is having a respawn system that's balanced enough that the defending team isn't being completely swamped, but also not just a 1-life rule that turns it into "kill the other guys first then get the objective" quoted for truth, for the most part on your average skirmish day "bad dudes over there, respawns thataway, go shoot" is about as complex a ruleset as can be managed. an awful lot of the game types i've played that have tried to make it more complex either descend into a saltfest (usually when limited boundaries or more complex respawn rules (more complex than go to the flag that is) are involved) or revert to tdm. ahh so it's a dedicated product. i mean i can see the allure, but sadly i think it's one of those ideas everyone will agree is a neat idea and then proceed to not buy for themselves, usually for fear of it being useless if it doesn't catch on.

i mean i can see how having the vip/target/macguffin doing a sort of patrol route around the site, and letting the attacking team pick when/where and how they want to go about it rather than being forced into a particular ambush location the defenders could predict (defeating the whole point of an ambush scenario). the tricky thing is gonna be how are you doing this tracking? whilst a phone app would work in theory, lot of folk don't take their phones on-site in case they get smashed (and ofc the usual data/signal availability) and presumably handing out site devices would be too expensive. unless you're doing it with a few select folks who are in charge of knowing the packages location.

i suspect the way this situation will end is the retailer will offer to fix the gnu (which iirc you have to give them one chance outside of 6 months), then proceed to put the minimal possible cost/effort into doing it, which frankly is probably going to end up the same anyway. if it were me i'd just replace the piston and call it at that. although in fairness, warranties mean very little to me because they're always longer than the time it takes for me to get bored and start tinkering.....

take a look here: should give you an idea of how these things are generally constructed and how the nozzle works: to answer your questions directly: yes its normal for the majority of airsoft nozzles to be able to rotate, how easily depends on the type of nozzle (eg if it has a sealing o-ring it'll be stiffer) and how it fits to the tappet plate (some are tight, some are loose). being a little tight at one point sounds like there's a little nub of material (eg a casting line) that's catching as you spin it, or maybe some grit that's catching. some models do have nozzles that don't rotate, don't worry, it'd be really obvious if it was one of those types as you wouldn't be able to turn it without very blatantly breaking something. the nozzle should ordinarily be easy to push back- you'll feel the spring force on the tappet plate, although if the gearbox happens to stop with the nozzle already retracted then it obviously won't want to retract any more. if you're curious try cycling the gearbox on auto rather than semi- you'll see the nozzle will stop in random positions depending on where in the cycle it happens to fall, rather than the more consistent point you'd see when firing in semi.

i'm afraid i don't really know. an awful lot of intentional "weathered" looks tend to end up not looking right to me, seems to be a hard art to master. tbh, just using the thing for a while is how i'd go about it.

i've always gone with generic kit is fine, and just don't go as far to start putting patches/insignia on that'll point to a very specific unit. but then i don't even bother with the comedy/non serious patches and am entirely mystified by how involved some folk are with them, although the world is full of hobbies that mystify me like trainspotting or stamp collecting....

aye bit of natural weathering will work wonders. what little painting i've done has ended up looking a lot better after it's been worn in a while.

Yeah the greens/browns defo looking better in the light. Still think a general darkening might help it out. But the patterning for sure looks good, and i'm liking the preservation of details like the grip/trigger/upper/screw heads rather than the "fuck it, spray the whole thing" approach you so often see.

Didnt realise unicorns came in different colours. I'll have one in diamond with rainbow racing stripes please.

yeah that's kinda how i was thinking it was working. doesn't look like the worst component in the world to replicate at least. one of the blessings of the flat 1j limit is stuff like this tends not to be as much of an issue.

Even though you've explained it i'm still struggling to visualise it Definately a weird design, i figured it was a generic vsr style sear in them (like i said, never stripped one down that far as i was only going for the hop rubber)

hmm, not really sure that works, kinda mixing the styles. i'm not all that into the painting side of things, but maybe if there's an overcoat that'd darken everything down?

i hope that's the lighting and not spray paint on the carpet concept wise it's looking good, thinking maybe the tan base and the red flecks are a tad bright? could expand the shapes fill out the pattern a bit more to sort the tan, or it'll maybe come in with a bit of wearing in.

That part does look familiar, think it's the retainer for the spring guide, not had one of them mosins that far apart to be sure though. Wonder if perhaps it's one of those "its fine stock but drop a 2.3j spring in there and it'll go" kinda jobs?

guess they don't need to warranty a gun if it got burned by a battery that couldn't take it. not gonna lie, i'd rather a shredded piston than a battery fire any day of the week. which probably explains why my shredded piston collection is a thing but my burned battery collection isn't.....

apparently they're no longer being made and are hard to find edit: i see i've been beaten to the punch on that one......

not gonna lie, of all the guns i'd have thought they'd tweak to work as a g11 the aap-01 isn't one of them

didn't know they did that. that's spectacularly bad, the absolute last component that should be responsible for capping amp draw is the battery being made to supply more than it's rated to......

i did meet a 1903 in the local brick and mortar a while back (read: several years) and it felt pretty nice (dunno what brand it was mind). good thing with that option is you'll more easily be able to get an appropriate sidearm compared to trying to find a webley/nagant. couldn't say what brand it was but seemed solid enough. the only thing with the gas variants is they seem to run short bolt throws, which i'm personally not too much of a fan of.

whilst the never fired line is bs, i mean if you've never fired it how would you know if it worked or not? however generally airsoft warranties do tend to have the issue that the way we use our pews means sellers are very conscious about how feasible it is for a malfunction to be user error. it's why you have the whole "11.1v ready" malarkey, it's not that guns without that rating can't run perfectly well on 11.1v, it's just a way of getting out of a potential claim. i swear this is the only reason mini tamiya is still a thing......

There's the pps mosin, i've ran the spring version and its not half bad. Mag will strip the skin from yer thumb when reloading and the front sight is maybe a tad weak but apart from that its ok

i had a similar issue with a magpul stock. the standard distance for the pin wasn't enough to clear the back of the stock tube rail, so had to use a pait of pliers/additional leverage (read: "persuasion") to get enough to go on. i ended up shaving down a nub on the back of the lever, giving it enough clearance to slide all the way off. meant it would come off if you weren't careful adjusting it, but not being a big fan of adjustable stocks i had a mark set for the position and only needed to remove it for battery installation.

as above, good to try to resist the urge for the time being, serve your time and get ukara setup so you can avoid the 2-tone menace. use the time to have a scout around, chat to folk about their pews, you'll find a lot of folk are more than happy to show off their toys. it'll give you some ideas as to what style you might want to go for. typically a lot of new starts gravitate to ar derivative guns (m4, m16 etc) but there's no rule says you can't start with an ak or an sa80 or an f2000 or whatever shape of pew takes your fancy. one thing to factor in is it's not just the gun you want to buy, but things like eyepro, decent boots (if you don't already have them), batteries, chargers etc, and wether or not you want to think about spare magazines and associated kit to carry them, or camo etc.

if the offset is the same and it's just length is the issue, then as long as there's a longer nozzle available it'd be feasible to trim it down if you know someone with the right equipment. i did it for the '42, trimmed down an sr25 nozzle to the right length, although granted much easier with a centred nozzle. highpressureairsoft is the biggest i'm aware of that's uk based, there's the likes of powair6 but they're in france. as we're talking about you can contact polarstar directly although it'd be very pricey.

yeah figured that'd be the issue, afaik p* will do a custom one although not sure if that applies to the offset variants, and regardless not a cheap solution.