Adolf Hamster

does kinda sound like she's stopping a bit quicker than she should. shims can be tricksy hobbitses, one drops free when opening up and will almost always drop such that it looks like it came from a different spot to where it was originally.

no mosfet and if as @MagpieTactical says this battery has suggested this battery has given issues in another gun then i'm inclined to blame that. a checker can be very handy for situations like these, see not only the total output but also if perhaps a cell has decided to give up (some chargers have been known to fail on one charging circuit and kill a battery this way). the only other explanation would be if it's been tinkered with and something like the shimming is tight, then it might not have the juice to spin on the 7.4, although it would also sound labored on the other batteries.

is there a mosfet involved?

just match to the battery then. tamiya connectors can be weird in airsoft, they tend to be wired reverse to RC batteries so it's not a given that the colours match. presumably for the same reason as the eclectic wire colouring- because electrical engineers are a strange bunch. as long as you keep track in your mind (write it down if needs be) which goes where then that'll do the job. if the motor runs backwards just swap the wires over problem solved. you could try swapping the o rings over, see if that does it, there's other tricks like stretching the o rings or swapping them out for one slightly oversize. that's an alu head isn't it? i know some of the plastic mushroom heads have issues with the texture of the plastic giving a poor seal but the alu one shouldn't. never needed to cut a window and the only box i've had the luxury of viewing the motor mesh is the open bottomed a&k mg boxes, which funnily enough are awful for accumulating dirt+crap in them. start by getting the idler and sector shimmed down as far as they'll go (working on the left hand half of the box) and such that they're running free even when the box is tightened up and tilted all different directions. that'll give you the most wiggle room on the bevel to go up/down as needed, then shim that as above (so you know your starting point of say 1mm total, then you can swap shims from one side to the other to move it up and down) you can try the bevel in the right half with the motor cage in position to give a very rough starting point, then it's just try it, adjust, try it again. running the motor with just the gears can give an idea of how much noise there is, how smooth everything is sounding etc. once you've got the bevel height where you want it, check how much overlap there is between the pinion and the idler and if necessary raise the idler/sector just to keep a decent overlap (ie that you're not driving on only half the teeth)

Aye thats the proper way to check it. Also good to hold it in different orientations see if theres any friction when they move. The movement itself isnt so bad as long as it doesnt allow them to move into a position where they're scraping. I'll also then try the piston in (sans-spring) to feel how smooth the pickup is after setting aoe.

Red is conventionally positive. If you get it wrong then the motor will try to run backwards which wont be good (well, it wont kill anything it'll just get stuck on the arl, obviously dont hold the power on it) Whilst you can solder directly to the motor its generally handy to use connectors so you can remove it to change as needed and not have to worry about it dangling off the gearbox while your working for it. With deans there's a +ve mark on them (cant remember which of the 2 it is come to think of it) and its good to stick to that so that if you get a battery with pre-soldered deans then it'll run right.

Tightness is better established by feel, before final assembly clamp just the gears up in the shell. Often its a case of what seems perfect when you have the shell just sitting there then when its compressed by bolting it together it locks up.

Sounds not too bad, not sounding tight at least. Double firing as you say some active breaking (and why not add precocking while your at it) would solve that.

yeah, thing is getting one in the first place *grumbles in 1j limit*

it's an ak with a galil stock and some generic polymer furniture? ironically the right folder is a good idea for a siderail optic, except it doesn't have a siderail. as a general rule cyma ak's tend to be solid enough, not amazing but as @Samurai says a workhorse do-what-you need-it-to kind of gun.

is it a RS (or at least, an RS-intended repro)? as if so then there is an element that the zeroing range on RS optics is a lot less than you'd typically see in airsoft due to the expected level of base precision. doesn't mean there isn't droop, just that it might not just be that.

always kinda felt that way too, although i still want a nagant. sadly the only one on the market seems to be the triple whammy of not particularly shiny externals, unobtanium, and you have got to be joking fps........

i just use some stuff i ordered from RS ages ago, came on 30m reels and still have loads of it sitting around. well, that and a box of assorted lengths of wire......

indeed it is. sounds like maybe with the barrel being off horizonal it might also have been off in the vertical, which ended up causing rubbing on the nozzle, so tightening the hop unit down has helped pull it back into alignmens. surprised that only really manifested in auto though.

ahh the joys of airsoft "compatibility"

fair enough, always worth checking the ammo/mags, i've "fixed" plenty of pews simply by putting some decent ammo in them. given it's primarily an auto issue, i'm still leaning towards tappet delay, if it doesn't have a delayer chip then the nozzle will return to battery before the mag has had a chance to feed the next round. other potential culprit is hop feed lips, but that'll usually manifest in semi too.

hmm, that sounds extreme for an ar reciever to be off by, but if it works it works. the feeding thing kinda sounds like it may be the ol' lack of delayer chip/weak mag/sticky ammo combo. easiest thing to try would be the ammo- refill the mag with something different see if that helps, although usually it's a symptom seen more on midcaps rather than hicaps (as midcaps tend to be double stack store single stack feed).

possibly some dirt/scratch in the inner barrel? usually clipping tends to be more erratic than this sounds. alongside the usual suspects of the sights/sight mountings all being tight and square too. does the barrel look off when tightened down? eg compared to the line of the reciever/stock? same applies to if the barrel is even straight, if it's maybe taken a knock at some point. one possibility might be to try a thin o-ring squished between the barrel and receiver (thin as don't want the barrel pushed too far forward). might help, might not, but if it doesn't then no harm done. yes indeed, removing material is always a last resort. be hesistant to think you'd be able to improve things without being really damn careful or using proper machine tools (and even then mounting an AR upper square in a lathe isn't a task i'd envy)

absolutely, do this all the time. if your first thought is "best of three" then you know what you really wanted underneath.....

which one do you use most? because that's the one you like most, and should keep.

always take claims of airsoft range with a big heap of salt, for starters airsoft meters are well known to be a different length to metric meters, and many folks will have different versions of what they mean by getting hits, dumping half a magazine into space for one round to barely be noticed, or firing one shot straight and level and hitting every time, wether it's a full target or someone hiding in cover etc. eh, can be tricky to tell. i've never done any proper range testing always went with just how it felt in the field.

nano will just give basic contact protection, but tbh given the contacts are gonna be yeeted anyway when you go optical you might even be happy enough to live with that. at least it's not the g&g version with it's weird trigger pack

aye that's the one. if you're gonna go optical in the long run then not much point going with the wired options short-term then as they'll end up redundant. not really sure about the perun vs gate thing, never really ran any of the perun options although they seem to be relatively popular.

aye, bang for buck i'd say they're one of, if not the best options out there atm. in fairness, i am starting to wonder if you're getting near to that being the limiting factor. as with all things it depends on how far you want to go in terms of when you think good enough is good enough. yeah, particularly see if that's the main cause of the horizontal spread.

aye that's the one, very basic but will let you drop-in a warfet. that is assuming you don't want to just go straight to putting a warfet in there.