Adolf Hamster

I'll take an akula if they have any going spare

I mean they are portable, if you have a 65,000 ton ship to do the porting.....

yeah, they can be tricksy hobbitses. at least using the 2-wire setup you get random firing rather than a short (with associated bad smells)

sounds like there's some bare wiring making contact somewhere, possibly against the gearbox shell? active brake will stop the motor based on when the mosfet isn't getting a connection, so whilst it should be reasonably predictable in normal semi-auto operation (as the col will trip at a predictable time), if it's in auto (which is the same as if it's getting a faulty contact signal) it'll just stop wherever it happens to be when the contact is broken.

there is. pinching an image from google: the portion of the hammer visible in that picture tends to fracture when converted into finest chinesium, usually the lower half of the "loop" breaks off leaving a stub of the upper portion (which is visible in the adverts picture- you can see the 2 points where it's fractured). the main body of the hammer remains and the pistol can be used entirely normally, it just looks bad and the fractured stub will be sharp.

it is visible in the pic, although granted i did know what i was looking for. the skeletonized hammer in that model is pretty well known for breaking in short-order (dry firing or no). it is primarily aesthetic (gun still fires) and afaik pretty sure standard hicapa hammers do fit.

i have a tenuous grasp on reality at the best of times, this isn't helping

ok, methinks that's enough internet for one day and its only half eleven.....

same, set on the higher end of reasonable and drop until at the lower end. ultimately it's a bit of a judgement call, sometimes an item might not be getting interest not because the price is unfair, but because it's just something that not many folk are in the market for, so you either have to drop the price to silly levels to force a "y'know what, might as well" kind of buyer or just accept the waiting. so it's automatically switching it for you? iirc only had one advert be contacted as an offer through the system, but nothing happened automatically it just sort of ended up as a typical PM conversation where all the paypal stuff was done just as messages and i manually set the ad to complete when paypal was sorted. from a buying perspective i'd probably still message someone if an ad said pending, if only as a "hey dude, i see this is pending, if it doesn't work out lemme know as i'm interested" kind of thing. if an ad's completed though i will just move past it.

let us know how it goes. whilst i've always wondered about how that would go down, i've never actually seen someone actually try it in-game.

the version i always interpreted it as was you had to see what you were shooting at. the whole premise being that holding a gun round a corner and firing without looking to see if perhaps someone happened to be right on the other side of the cover. so i wouldn't consider hip firing, or any of the tacticool holding the gun sideways shenanigans as blind firing if the person doing the shooting has clear sight between his gun and the target. it does raise the question on wether or not the use of mirrors/fancy optics (ie corner-shot style equipment) counts, which boils down to wether the primary purpose of the rule is safety (as above) or enforced fairness in terms of letting the target have part of you to shoot at.

the misleading adverts thing i'd direct you to mack's: which is a novel and often humorous way of approaching the problem. in terms of timewasters, unfortunately that's just the nature of the beast sometimes. any time i'm selling i don't set an ad to completed until the paypal transaction has actually gone through. although granted i don't know what the deal is if you're using the built in system as i've never used it properly.

if your first thoughts on playing with a semi-only rule is to ask "how do i bypass this as much as possible" then i fear you may have picked up the wrong impression of the hobby. whilst there isn't anything intrinsically wrong with hpa'd pistols, there is a certain subset of players (like, by the sounds of it, the one you met) who use those capabilities to excess, and a lot of folks ain't so keen on that, after all it's why auto is banned for most cqb sites in the first place. some compassion for the folk you're shooting at goes a long way.

not that i've spent any time looking, but can't say i've ever heard of it for pistols. the systems on rifles tend to operate electronically and whilst it's technically feasable to do in a pistol i've never heard of it done. assuming this is for a cqb environment based on the want of hpa in pistol form i'd wager a lot of sites wouldn't be so keen on a binary trigger anyway. you might be mistaking people using conventional triggers and just spamming the hell out of it, which is a great way to win friends on-site.

put it like this, i'm basically sold up on airsoft atm, but i haven't sold the odin because that would feel a bit too final....

it's a vicious cycle. they start out just uploading normal gameplay videos, at some point they encounter some natural conflict and upload it, video goes big, they see that ad money roll in and want more, so they start seeking out, or generating conflict to keep the clickbait rolling. that's a tricky one, for sure the game has that behavior occurring naturally, just part of it being a sport played by humans, certainly it doesn't make for good pr making it seem more common than it is. one thing i don't like is the whole business of promoting the use of pain as some sort of macho proving/karma delivery system, the idea that intentionally trying to hurt people more than necessary is an acceptable practice. yes bb hits will sting, it is an unavoidable side effect of having pews with a usable effective range, but that doesn't mean it's some kind of character flaw to dislike it and not want people intentionally aiming for sensitive areas or sending excessive amounts of plastic in the name of "correcting" some perceived injustice.

that's true. on the one hand, they are just responding to the audience, sadly "airsoft fights and flipouts compilation #420; cheetar shot in the ballz with crazy 500fps sniper (instant karma) (super painful) (he regretted it)" is gonna get you more views than "yeah went and played airsoft, it was fun playing but the footage doesn't really show it that well". it's drama dressed up as actual gameplay. seems to be a human thing, i mean if you look at regular television we could put anything on there and yet we so often choose to have violence and murder.

very, it basically makes loading midcaps easier than winding hicaps.

aye, although the little one looks like it could be outperformed by an airsoft pew if you tried hard enough. the intro though "i seriously have to ask if anyone has a pacemaker"

always amazes me how good the memories of these youtubers are. they can remember every shot they fired in every game and apply hit markers appropriately, even when you can't tell from the footage whether or not the bb found its mark. meanwhile mans can't remember what, or even if, he ate for breakfast.....

the motor engagement is sort-of a separate issue to shiming (although it rolls into the shimming process) think of it as doing the equivalent of adjusting the motor height (moving the pinion up/down) but for the bevel, there's a sweet spot where both will mesh nicely (the point where the motor sounds least labored and there's minimal gear noise). your normal shimming will put a limit on this as you can only make the bevel go so low before it interferes with the idler, and so high before there's bad overlap with the idler/its interfering with the upper half of the case. absolutely, you don't need zero play in the gears, you just need to be sure that they cant move into a position where they might interfere with the box/each other, and that there's a good overlap (ie one gears teeth aren't halfway off the other). hence when checking shimming, spinning the gears with the box at different angles to make sure that it's always spinning free.

wasn't there also something about see saws?

metal filings under the bevel i'd be taking a close look at the shimming between the sector and bevel, and the engagement of the pinion. usually the latter is pretty tricky to do by eye (when the box is in its assembled state) but you can tell by ear when it's running if the box is straining. one method is once you have the bevel shimmed as low as it can go to the left half (with all the shims in place on the top side too) is to take just the bevel and put it in the right half of the box and hold the motor in position to see if it's roughly at the right height. shimming the rest of the gears as low as possible gives the range of motion you've got to play with (eg if you've got 0.3mm under the bevel on the left side, you know you can't go lower than that) but you can go higher, which will help with the pinion engagement. it can take a few test-tries, put the box together with just the motor and gears and run it to get a feel for the noise/strain it's under with no load (same idea as putting the box together with just the gears and spinning them by hand to check they spin free) the piston is a bit tricker, one school of thought is that sort of damage is the sector gear naturally carving its own preferred engagement into the piston. when switching to the likes of steel rack pistons this can't be done, so you need to put some effort into making sure the aoe is smooth. setting aoe isn't particularly difficult. you can get shims from ak2m4 that space the piston back from the piston head. the aim is to get the first pickup tooth to mesh smoothly with the sector gear (as a general rule i aim to have the face of the piston tooth and sector tooth meeting such that the full area is contacted). it should never require more than 1 tooth removed and in the majority of cases half a tooth is enough (i tend to buy the shs 14.5 tooth pistons for this reason). one of luke's more recent vids (i forget which one) has a good point about carving the back of the second tooth at an angle, to give clearance whilst also preserving as much of the second tooth as possible to catch the second tooth of the sector. the way to check it is to have just the sector gear and piston/cylinder assembly in the gun (sans-spring), push the piston forward by hand and roll the sector around to pull it back, you'll feel if it's not picking it up smoothly. although bear in mind if there's any soft components in the cylinder (eg a mushroom piston head) then the piston might be slightly further forward when under spring tension. where folk tend to go wrong with aoe is "correcting" guns that don't need corrected, or overcorrecting by shoving 1/4" of sorbothane in the cylinder regardless of how far back the piston actually needs to go.

going by his other thread it's not a k?

i mean it works, but the thing that immediately jumps to my mind when seeing that is "hmmm fogging"