Adolf Hamster

Really!? I hope your joking because otherwise imma feel cheated.....

Joule creep isnt real, it can't hurt you... Oh wait.....

You could try a different spring, something longer with a bit more compression at rest. Otherwise precocking will effectively prevent the "boioioioing" after firing.

Lots of good tips out there already. The thing i'd say is to assume the worst internally and buy based on externals. Many pews can look and even shoot somewhat decently but have some serious gremlins under the hood that even an honest seller might not know about if they arent the type to work on their own pews. This is especially the case for anything with "upgrades". Dont beleive any claims like "shoots like a laser" etc, not because the seller is necessarily stating a false beleif, but how do you know their definition/expectations of a good shooter matches your own? I'm not saying that every secondhand pew is a wreck, indeed i have bought some fantastic pews from these forums, but if you're prepared for the worst (eg budgeting for a proper tech overhaul, or parts if you like tinkering yourself) then anything better will be a bonus. As has been mentioned above use goods+services when paying, an honest seller shouldnt have any issues with this, if they kick up insisting on freinds+family or bank transfer then walk away, there's always another pew.

Seen a fella do that before, never reloaded just yeeted the gun into a dump pouch and drew another

hmm, might need to get in on that. mans has a spider repeller in literally every room in the house but still i get the big ass bastards (i'm talking 2.5+ inchers ) showing up every now and then. get a cat they said, it'll keep the spiders down they said, aye right, furry fecker knows i hate spiders and keeps them alive just to torture me.......

sounds like the dot just can't handle the repeated battering it's getting on a pistol slide. not sure i'd expect any non RS optic to survive even the lower tier punishment our toys can dish out.

bu... but.... science?

well afaik frangible ammunition is the most effective at energy transfer, so maybe nuprol bb's?

nah, the flavour just ain't right. afaik the only use of melons as bb targets was redwolf showing off one of the airsoft miniguns. i assume that showing off obscene rates of fire is their only real utility in airsoft.

i do not like melons. can't exactly explain why, just don't like 'em you mean it's worth paying a bit more to get a quality product rather than just buying any old crap that's cheap?

not gonna lie, strawberries for the win, cherries are just too damn sour. although in juice form nothing beats the mango, if you disagree then your wrong and i will 1v1 you irl......

to be fair, this thread hasn't been derailed yet, so if anything it's due a little diversion *runs*

Ahh, my bad, im terrible at keeping track of names/post content

Where did the tooth go? Dont want it rattling around in there..... If its a clean enough break it could be ok, short stroking a gun by intentionally grinding off teeth is a well established practice for getting a little more snappiness out of the box (and allow a higher rof before you get pme issues). Only issue is if its a long enough barrel that you need the full stroke for volume (~450mm ish) Reduced power is a by product of less compression, so you do usually need to run a stronger spring to compensate, which is where you can get issues same as running a stronger spring for higher power. I'd say at the very least strip, clean, file down any remnants of the tooth and make sure there's no other damage (eg to piston).

at the risk of suggesting something that has probably already been through your mind, but what about changing up your pace and style of play? something like taking up sniper/dmr work with a more relaxed pace. don't get involved in attacking but instead focus on stealth and defending? someone with the patience to sit in a bush and hold a flank or hang around the back lines plinking into the fray from afar is still a valuable team contribution, indeed many times have i been foiled by someone parked in a hedge sitting there like a sentient landmine.

Thats the same way the ronin is laid out isnt it? Worth a shot although connectors might be tricky to stuff in the grip. You could run the wires all the way to the top, my old jg was setup like that to deans straight into the mosfet. You can get away with it on an ak with the removable motor cage

i thought there was some kind of limit put on the classifieds after we got hit by a boatload of spambots?

yes it will, although not by much. easily correctable with some shims between the piston head and piston body. the mushroom head is slightly thicker than a non-mushroom which is why the ootb aoe is pretty decent.

The r-hop blocks? Yes they work well with the likes of the maple leaf series (same idea as the omega nub but more solid construction) Wouldnt be so useful for a standard bucking though.

same, only in tube form. cut a slot in the end of the tube you can stuff the chrono in so it holds it nice.

tbf, 23rps on 7.4 sounds just dandy? especially with the pickup speed for semi spamming shenanigans. but then i've long given up speed chasing on aeg's in a world where hpa exists.

the dwell time (dp) on the jack is the cycle time, when you pull the trigger the solenoid engages, air starts flowing, the nozzle moves forward and loads a bb then at near full extension air starts going through the nozzle to push the bb down the barrel. when the cycle is over the solenoid turns off, air stops flowing and the nozzle automatically retracts. if the dwell is too short then it'll stop sending air before the bb has left the barrel, making it undervolumed and messing with accuracy likewise if the dwell is too long then it'll keep sending air after the bb has left the barrel and the burst of following air can mess with accuracy (and also be a waste of air in general) hpa's are particularly sensitive to having the voluming set just right, although at least adjusting it is relatively easy. the jack in particular (as you're finding with the longer barrel) is tricky as it's an entirely pressure fed system, so running a lower pressure also lowers the force the nozzle can move with meaning it'll struggle to chamber a round on a full mag.

tbh how far the actual hop wheel needs to go to get usable hop is less important than how much the hop bucking is impinging on the chamber, as long as there's some room either side of the "sweet spot" to adjust if needed (ie it's not spacing stuff with the hop completely off nor struggling to lift at full hop). lower degree is a softer grippier rubber, although the material also plays a part. but i don't think the bucking/nub choice is the problem here as opposed to the nozzle alignment. the open-bolt nature of the jack makes it very sensitive to proper placement and fundamentally limits what you can get out of it due to the way the system works.

macaron 60degree is a solid choice of hop rubber, and best paired with their "omega" nub, although the Rhop block on the maxx works equally well. barrel length might be a factor, the arp is on the shorter end of things but tbh i'm tempted to say this might be open-bolt syndrome.