Adolf Hamster

gotta vote for the warhead. about the only downside is the motor tabs are very weak, and you really gotta be careful not to strain them when adding/removing contacts (although afaik they've been working at improving that since i had mine) otherwise handles a titan just fine (with precocking/ab), i went with the standard speed so auto on 13:1 came out ~18rps but with a much much better response in semi than that number would imply.

if the barrel seems clean then that's a good sign it's not that, for the hop can sometimes be very subtle, especially with fancy contact patches (eg ml). not outside the realm of possibility, that's the nozzle alignment you normally hear talked about with converting aeg's. for example dropping a fusion engine into a reciever that doesn't quite line up right compared to the original gearbox is a common issue. that said, you wouldn't normally expect it to be an issue on a factory built gun like the tippmanns (or the mtw). one wonders if perhaps it's a side effect of the barrel swap (ie something not being lined up properly on reassembly), i've never taken a tippmann apart so idk if that's a possibility.

consistently curving to the right sounds like the hop isn't sitting square, usual suspects being inner barrel being slightly rotated, the hop arm/nub not being square or the hop rubber not sitting right. other option could be some damage to the inner barrel or some aspect of the outer barrel (particularly prevalent with suppressors) that the bb is clipping on the way out. however that should be a fixable issue, worst case maybe a new barrel if it's damaged but more likely just a re-seating of the barrel and hop components.

cyma, electric

Aye the issue isnt the fitting, its the mechanics of how the engine runs. Yeah every tippmann owner i've talked to has good things to say, and what little trigger time i have on them was pretty decent. Good good, not worth risking an out of date tank. Yeah you're on your own there

some regs need to be turned on as well as adjusted to pressure, or perhaps it was low on air. did you find out what engine it had? a scuba cylinder is a damn handy thing to have, but be sure to check that it's all up to date on inspection/safety testing, 3000psi is not joking around pressure. that's a tricky one to gauge. you get a well setup system with the right supporting elements (barrel, hop, ammo) then it'll be great, but as i mentioned before certain setups can struggle to match what a decent aeg can do. i'm not familiar enough with the mechanics of the tippmann system to really comment what the ceiling is for them. if your goal is range/accuracy then i'd suggest looking at the polarstar f2, it's pricey but it's pretty adaptable (in terms of what guns you can/can't put it in) and if you get it dialled in right (with the right supporting elements) it's not far, possibly even right on the limit of what an airsoft pew can do. only reason i sold mine was because i was quitting the whole hpa ecosystem.

afaik aren't the current tippmanns semi-only? i recall something about only the early versions being auto capable, but slap a big citation needed on that. that said the owners i've talked to all seem to like them. one thing to bear in mind with conversions is what engine is being used, as that will define a lot about the ability to dial it in to good performance. eg open bolt systems like the polarstar jack/f1 have fundamental problems with getting good consistency compared to closed bolt systems like the f2/fusion- worth checking what's in the evo you're looking at. the wolverine systems claim closed bolt, but i've not used them enough to comment fairly on how they perform. i wouldn't be too worried about conversion, it's a relatively easy process (compared to aeg teching anyway) and for the most part nozzle alignment isn't too bad if the gearbox used is correct for the bodyshell (ie you started with a complete donor gun). normally nozzle alignment gets talked about with regards to the likes of the fusion engine, which as a total gearbox replacement has the same "compatible ish" fitment problems that you'd get with an aftermarket aeg gearbox. the mid cap problem is easy to solve- get an odin

you're right that is worse

is that the one that looks cool in video games but only because video games cant convey the fact that it weighs approximately 19.48 tons?

what have you heard? that drawing was ISO standard not my fault i only had crayons

normally i tend to go for the standard (not swiss cheesed, you can save more weight by not running a thrust bearing on the piston end) rocket/shs pistons from ak2m4. either 14.5t or a 15t and file down a tooth as appropriate. steel rack can push the problem elsewhere, but they can still fail, especially if the rack isn't glued in proper.

ahh yes, the budget option.....

has the seller been upfront about the storage in the advertisement? and if not, do they have any basis to justify not doing so (eg test firing to ensure function etc)? perhaps initially messaging them and asking them to mention it in the ad might be a better route than calling them out? at least as a starting point.

Cost-performance is a personal thing, i'd say grab a bag of the heavies (0.4g+ geoffs) to try, and see if the benefit is worth it to you.

A fair point.

i hope it's current owner is able to get their money back.

Mosfet wise for cheep and cheerful i tend to go with the nanoasr, that way its a plug and play swap if you ever want to put something like a warfet on. Not sure motor wise, never really dealt with mid-length aside from accidentally ordering a lonex mid length from gunfire (back when you could order from them)

generally i'd just leave it as-is, mock suppressor is fine for looks but you shouldn't need the inner barrel inside it if it's not clipping. indeed it's a boon if you wanted to put a tracer unit inside the suppressor to keep the shorter barrel, or if you want to occasionally change it up with standard/suppressed looks. gear ratio won't have an effect on volume unless you're short stroking, and if you're short stroking as long as you don't go shorter than the length of the port it's also fine. sadly no, sitting duck was better at this sort of thing than me, i usually just stick with whatever the gun came with. if in doubt go higher volume. fortunately aeg's aren't as sensitive to it as for example hpa where mis-adjusted volume can seriously affect accuracy (although fortunately it's also super easy to adjust on those platforms)

pretty much zci would be my pick for bang for buck, not used the aols so can't comment. can't say from what i've seen of madbull stuff over the years that i'd be keen to use their barrels, especially aluminium, and especially not when the zci exists. worth noting, there's not really any benefit in extending the inner barrel from a performance perspective, and can mess with things like voluming.

couple of options. with the motor removed probably the least damaging is to have a (flat ended) rod (eg a hex driver) up through the nozzle, push backwards to complete the cycle then gently release other option is to pull the arl out of engagement, although it depends on the box how easy that can be (some have a cutout for this exact purpose)

i mean part of me is genuinely curious as to the standard of workmanship in those guns. although not £1300 curious.....

i wish i had the money do to that just to send it to luke.....

is it bad that i could all but predict the parts list in that m4? admittedly i'd have said maxx rather than pro-win for the hop, but guess they only took every even-numbered reply from reddit.... not gonna lie, looking forward to seeing luke get his hands on one of these....

I was thinking more that letting that green wear in, get scuffed up etc to show black underneath would look quite good, if the 2-tone wasnt showing. Motor springs can work sometimes (assuming that's long enough) and smaller diameter than a mainspring. The carboning can happen surprisingly quickly, remember working on an ak that looked immaculate save for the carboned contacts. Can be hard to track down, tbh if it were me i'd be re-wiring it, but then if it were me that'd happen for a mosfet regardless of the state of functionality of the original setup.