Skara

I lied.

The gun somehow came back to life on its own 😕

i suspect a jam, because when I took the barrel out there was a BB stuck inside.

Gonna take it apart nonetheless to check for actual damage, at worst a new tappet plate and piston (which I already have).

If the sector is damaged I'll just swap the whole set with the stock gears from the specna.

Also installed the SHS HT into the ARP and my club's tech suggested to run the gun as it is until it dies and only then open it up to install the 13:1 set.

I'm also turning off active braking because it heats up the motor like.....a motorfucker (yay I'm funneeee)..

If the other gears are OK then just try replacing the sector only

& see how it rolls/spins/meshes perhaps

Std sectors are usually compatible - just if they mesh smoothly

If the bevel/spur are OK, shimmed OK & meshing nicely

eg: bevel to pinion, then just look to change sector

(or as little as possible)

Also some have said the std SA gears are not that robust

BUT I don't own one or a SA set myself

Yes AB is all well & good but heat can increase

on a ferrite motor, the motor continues to spin - a lot

Where as on a neodym motor, the strong magnets slow th

 motor much quicker than a ferrite motor

On "the bench" the ferrite motor spins a lot longer

The neodym motor slows much much much quicker

In reality though the spring starting to compress slows them both

But I feel the neodym motor overspins slightly less in the box

So on a neodym motor AB is not needed perhaps

A clip showing AB on & the AB off with a neodym motor

YES with AB off the motor spins more

BUT no where as much as std ferrite motor does

This is a SHS High Speed so it is spinning faster

But doesn't carry on spinning like a std motor would

Now as said, ON THE BENCH

In a gun, in actual use, the spring would slow a weak ferrite easily

So it is debatable just how big the overspin difference really is

between neodym/ferrite motors in a working gun perhaps

But I feel neodym motors only need very very slight/light AB

to stop them and even without AB they still overspin less

AB imho should be used to accurately stop the cycle on pre-cock

or when trying prevent double firing when a gun is cycling too quickly

When people use AB to prevent double firing it can be a sign of sticking switch, worn COL or most commonly just taking the piss rof

If your gun does really need AB (for set pre-cocking)

then don't or at least try not use it, or only very soft AB

I don't use AB, so any motor heat is purely down to the build itself

(than reversing the polarity at the motor)

TLDR again - yeah turn off AB if you can 

Yep, already did that on every gun I own bar the Ares as the EFCS allows for fuck all customization. I rarely use semi auto anyway and when I do it takes seconds to turn it back on (at least on the ARP)

Regarding the Ares gearbox, I have yet to open it. I might do it this Saturday, so I can also figure out a way to rewire the thing to the front. Will make a new status update once I see what's gone and what's still useable.

Thanks for the help mate!

The spring has always gone in the same way, the more tightly would coils at the spring guide end.

I heard about this theory, but when I tested it (with both springs) the results were the same.

1.05/100, 0.64/90

The gun could be creeping a bit, haven't chronoed on 0.2s to be fair.

Specs change but SP90 seems irregular at one end...

slightly tighter at one end than the other

so you "should" have got some difference

compared to a regular spring...

(which should be same either way round)

Some other irregular springs are tighter in middle

AND one of the ends are tighter than the other...

Honestly the way the spring is fitted can make a difference

(as said I've flipped a spring to squeeze another 10fps more than once)

The SP90 or SP100 should just be tighter at one end

so should have made some slight difference

BUT like I said specs can change and be a different spring

or most likely just them qwirky airsoft gremlins

as said these spring/power stuff doesn't always follow logic

Probably why Mr Spock doesn't do airsoft

(his ears would be stinging as easy big target)

you got it sorted & that's all that matters

Yep, I am definitely gonna experiment more with this irregular spring theory. I've heard it in the past but never got to "play" with it.

SP100 is done but I still have the SP90 and I can always buy another SP100  after all it's €7.50, won't lose my sleep over that amount, plus having an extra spring in my spare parts drawer is always nice.

i just thought it was funny to cut a spring and gain power

Now I can SlAy ChEeTaHs on Sunday

Ahahahah, I'm afraid our adventures with the cheetah club are over

After "stealing" our worst members (literally, they took in a guy who doesn't call his hits unless he bleeds and another who thinks he knows it all lol), we decided to never invite them on our field again.

With that being said, I think I'll bring the AK, although I have to check the shimming as it's a bit of a whiny bitch, if I can't fix it in time then it's Honey Badger time with the specna as a backup.

I have ML rubbers in all my guns, so hopping them rocks isn't really a problem..

Referrs to .32's as rocks

*Looks at several bags of .48's*

*Looks at dragonuv*

*Decides to shut up and not dig himself a hole*

Got more Intel on the field I'll be playing at.

Seems good for sniping..

Okay, gonna take the sniper BUT I am also taking the AK + smersh combo, just in case shit gets real and I need to fling many BBs over there in a short time.

I just rebuilt the HB in its stock form, with the super unbalanced and heavy OEM 9" rail. It's uncomfortable but it does look good, especially with the FF carry handle (which I bought FYI ).

also chronoed it, 0.96J (good) and 16 RPS on a 11.1 (meh).

New motor's coming in next week (debating whether or not putting the ifrit 25k or the incoming SHS high torque in there, any tip?).

I've already seen that AY thingy, what bugs me is the metal receiver.

Not because of the weight (2070g vs 1930 of the Ares and I can still send it to a friend to be skeletonized and shave some grams off) but because after a while all the metal body guns I've seen turned into wobbly cunts. Definitely inviting for the price (apart from the weird gearbox shell).

I'll check on another teammate who has a CCR, it's been rebuilt recently and runs somewhat smooth.

Ifrit is more expensive

25k and main point is it has an " O " type pinion

The SHS HT is 30k (ish), has a D type pinion

To me it falls to performance/price and ease of pinion replacement. Even if you got a pinion puller, if you can get or already have spare pinions that some might mesh with bevel being used

SHS do both type of pinions anyway

If you got a puller then it boils do to the price/performance & availability I guess

Both are good motors

If you got an ifrit in your gun then you don't HAVE to change it like you would if you had a later STD 18k G&G grey motor

If people find the 25k Blue "Powerful Motor" ferrite motor

or better still the Orange Ifrit in their new G&G then they don't really need a new motor is what I mean

tough call but price performance I'd probably go for SHS

but if a Ifrit came in gun or lightly used one came along for a cheap price I'd consider it

as said think price/availability along with pinion etc...

will dictate which one is better - but both are decent

Asked because I already have an ifrit (it's in my arp at the moment), since I'm getting another SHS HT/13:1 combo I thought I'd slap the SHS stuff in the ARP and use the 25k on the Ares.

I'll give it a try tomorrow and see what happens

Not looking at 27 RPS/7.4 type of performance tho.

but ffs 16 RPS on a 11.1 is just meh

I know about the original video, it's been posted in here a couple of times already.

I thought it'd be nice to remind people to NOT act like they're some speshul forces 

I'm speshul needs 🤪

Watching somebody watching something.....

jesus, life’s too short