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Everything posted by Skara
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I fucking love when your gun is fucking spot on at home (even after fucking extensive testing), but then on the field it does whatever the fuck it wants.
Fuck off, really..
- Show previous comments 18 more
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If your gun works at home perfectly
but screws up on site
make your own CQB site in your house
never have an issue with your gun again
might have buy a new TV, mirrors, lights etc...
but your gun will thank you for it
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- Shamal, Skara and strykerles
- 3
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Shall I buy it for the arp9?
Can't be worse than the Ares rail I currently have, right?
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Ares motor died, finally, after 4 years..
- Show previous comments 7 more
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I lied.
The gun somehow came back to life on its own 😕
i suspect a jam, because when I took the barrel out there was a BB stuck inside.
Gonna take it apart nonetheless to check for actual damage, at worst a new tappet plate and piston (which I already have).
If the sector is damaged I'll just swap the whole set with the stock gears from the specna.
Also installed the SHS HT into the ARP and my club's tech suggested to run the gun as it is until it dies and only then open it up to install the 13:1 set.
I'm also turning off active braking because it heats up the motor like.....a motorfucker (yay I'm funneeee)..
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If the other gears are OK then just try replacing the sector only
& see how it rolls/spins/meshes perhaps
Std sectors are usually compatible - just if they mesh smoothly
If the bevel/spur are OK, shimmed OK & meshing nicely
eg: bevel to pinion, then just look to change sector
(or as little as possible)
Also some have said the std SA gears are not that robust
BUT I don't own one or a SA set myself
Yes AB is all well & good but heat can increase
on a ferrite motor, the motor continues to spin - a lot
Where as on a neodym motor, the strong magnets slow th
motor much quicker than a ferrite motor
On "the bench" the ferrite motor spins a lot longer
The neodym motor slows much much much quicker
In reality though the spring starting to compress slows them both
But I feel the neodym motor overspins slightly less in the box
So on a neodym motor AB is not needed perhaps
A clip showing AB on & the AB off with a neodym motor
YES with AB off the motor spins more
BUT no where as much as std ferrite motor does
This is a SHS High Speed so it is spinning faster
But doesn't carry on spinning like a std motor would
Now as said, ON THE BENCH
In a gun, in actual use, the spring would slow a weak ferrite easily
So it is debatable just how big the overspin difference really is
between neodym/ferrite motors in a working gun perhaps
But I feel neodym motors only need very very slight/light AB
to stop them and even without AB they still overspin less
AB imho should be used to accurately stop the cycle on pre-cock
or when trying prevent double firing when a gun is cycling too quickly
When people use AB to prevent double firing it can be a sign of sticking switch, worn COL or most commonly just taking the piss rof
If your gun does really need AB (for set pre-cocking)
then don't or at least try not use it, or only very soft AB
I don't use AB, so any motor heat is purely down to the build itself
(than reversing the polarity at the motor)
TLDR again - yeah turn off AB if you can
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Yep, already did that on every gun I own bar the Ares as the EFCS allows for fuck all customization. I rarely use semi auto anyway and when I do it takes seconds to turn it back on (at least on the ARP)
Regarding the Ares gearbox, I have yet to open it. I might do it this Saturday, so I can also figure out a way to rewire the thing to the front. Will make a new status update once I see what's gone and what's still useable.
Thanks for the help mate!