Skara
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Everything posted by Skara
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Lemme necro this. Yesterday I was discussing shimming techniques with a random dude on a discord server I'm in. He's a fan of the bevel to pinion method, I'm not, he didn't give me anything to support his thesis other than "every good tech does it". There are 5 components to shimming, the "energy" travels from the battery to: pinion, bevel, spur/idler, sector, piston in this order. So looking at it this way, correctly setting up the pinion and bevel first would make sense. But then we look at how much each component can be moved around and we notice that the sector can't be shimmed too high, as it'll grab on the tappet plate and has a chance to miss/not engage properly with the COL, nor shimmed too low otherwise it'll grind against the spur. This gear engages other stuff in only ONE direction (perpendicular to its axis). We then notice that the spur gear generally wants to sit as low as possible (one or no shims depending on how the gearbox shell and bushings/bearings sit in their slots) to allow the sector to sit low too (optimal engagement of the piston rack, COL and low chance of grabbing the tappet plate), having the spur sitting as low as possible also allows more adjustment in case either the sector/bevel need to sit higher for some reason. Just like the sector, this thing only engages other gears in ONE direction. Then the bevel gear. This gear gets engaged from TWO different directions (perpendicular to its axis with the spur and ARL, at an angle with the pinion). As with all gears, the trick is to have it contact the spur teeth as much as possible to avoid unnecessary stress, premature wear and breakages. Last, but not least, the pinion. This thing only engages the bevel gear at a fixed angle and has the largest range of adjusment via the screw on the pistol grip, which allows some pretty dank fine tuning compared to the rest of the system. Looking at the way the bevel and pinion work, they'll always mesh well regardless of where the bevel sits (gear sits lower, motor will sit further away, gear sits higher, motor will be pushed deeper into the box) provided that the pinion is actually compatible with the bevel. By this last point, it makes no sense to me to tune the pinion/bevel meshing first. What if you fuck up and shim the bevel so high that you in turn need to shim the spur high too, consequently the sector will sit WAY too high and grab the tappet/miss the COL/interfere with something like an optical mosfet? Why would you "use" the finest and widest range of adjustment (motor height) from the start? Am I missing something?
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Don't think it's VFC though, it's not a regular GBB, it has some wonky ass proprietary mag. Check the YT video in my comment
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Lots of drama, I know, but what the fuck?
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@clumpyedge.sorry just read your post again.
I'm not sure about drones but I think you are right on that.
I'm specifically talking about people with cameras being able to film.
🙂👍
Regards
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Don’t think anyone is saying you can’t film in a public space , but if someone objects to there child being filmed they could get the police involved and you ‘could’ be on very thin ice if you refused to either stop filming the child or refused to delete the footage .
Can’t remember the exact name but there is an offence to do with filming or photographing a minor even in a public space without consent .
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In public consent is not needed.in the case of children they can be filmed so long as the footage does not contain any lewd or indecent images of them.
I typed in 'filming in public' and that's what it says.i know some people get really irate and scream that they dont give their permission to be filmed or that filming them is a breach of gdpr but neither statements are correct.lets face it we are all filmed every day by shops,garages,hospitals,shopping centres.its all around us.🙂👍
Regards
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It does a much better job at replicating the actual Honey Badger than every other "airsoft" HB out there.
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Haven't clicked on the link, have you?
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You probably misread "Elite Force" instead of "Tactical Force". It's a load of wank lol
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Man this thread just ruined my day. I say open a PP dispute, NOW. send him the gun back and let PP handle everything else, I mean that is a shit job done by a retard.
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Radios - Baofeng, Headsets Etc, What's Reasonable?
Skara replied to Asomodai's topic in Guns, Gear & Loadouts
It's utter shit though, mine died within 2 days. I recommend buying the MA-26LK from Midland and then an earphone of your choice. Been using one for quite a while (first with my Midland G7, then with the UV-5R Mind you that there are 2 versions, the MA-26L has a midland plug (still 2 pins but they're inverted) and the LK has the Kenwood plug (which is what Baofengs use). -
Specna Core of your liking with a better motor and hop rubber. Maybe a tiny GATE mosfet if you use 11.1s /thread
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Perun V2 optical for my Cunt Arms mp5/m4 thingy along with another MAXX fancy trigger. I really need to stop browsing retailer websites when drunk. I also forgot once again to buy fucking mags -.-
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T238 mosfets verdict:
BAD.
2 of the titan clones shit the bed and the jefftron copy (that only gives active braking) doesn't work in semi auto.
Also there is fuck all online about beeps and shit.
You definitely get what you pay for.
Thankfully it wasn't my money, but fucking hell we spent 7 hours trying to make those fets work.
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I get that it's cheap Chinese crap, but we had to use all the provided stickers AND the leftover stickers from my mate's titan before realizing where it fucking needed to be.
Zero explanations from the manual nor the horrible qr code link.
Like, the manual literally says "disassemble gearbox, install DTU, assemble gearbox".
Installed, plugged the battery (7.4v) and attempted to do the usual 1st time calibration just like every other optical unit.
At that point it died.
No beeps, no boops, no anything.
After hours of testing we installed the 2nd unit, which fired a whopping ONE round before frying itself.
Went and installed the jefftron copy (small board integrated in a regular trigger switch).
This one works fine in full auto, but for some reason when you switch to semi the trigger jams itself into something (and no it's not the COL).
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Yeah I'm not into optical stuff
seen there is facebook page a few days when debating all options
callsign professor on youtube
https://www.facebook.com/groups/232633248186859/?ref=share
but not on FB anymore
think bloke is in Netherlands and is trying to help out with issues
he & another gelblaster bloke Aussie
Hiroshima Screamer on youtube
there is a fail rate with them
but then there has been lemon Titan's Jerfftron & Perun's too
though yes I expect at least 1 of the three I ordered to fail out of box
Also ordered some cheap shit 141 barrels
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001298008413.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.170b4c4d6fTLsI
The FH is 121, so another 20mm should just still sit inside the duck flash hider before showing vividly
The Top Tech FH shoots rather well
but the std FH is not so great so fuck it
bought a few for FH's and/or a MP5k
not expecting a prommy for like under £7
expect a bit of finishing too but wtf
with regards to the T238 - it's shits n giggles
understand stuff like optical mosfets have issues
like need to put in pin to v2 or cover tiny hole
else it won't fire due to light confusing sensors
(when testing box & motor outside receiver)
sometimes people spray inside of box black to avoid light confusing sensors or reflecting on inside case
and bits of tape under trigger to avoid firing at will in direct sunlight - though gotta really go some for this to fire
probably risky to have one of them skeleton receivers
where loads of swiss cheese on receiver allows more light to shine on box externally, risking seepage to confuse some pcb/sensors
use COL rest postion to help align sticker
& depending on selector plate colour - go nuts with black marker on say a blue or white selector plate etc...
to ensure you have definative BLACK / WHITE for sensors to pick up
plus the usual checking clearances inside box where switch went on some boxes needing some work especially reinforced ones
though G&G's are not reinforced & quite "empty" inside like SA boxes
Oh yes - it will be a wank & a ball ache I'm expecting
with hit n miss quality on T238's
(more miss than hit I expect)
but if I take extra care, I'm slightly hopeful at least one might work out to use the fuck pig DSG with no semi cam
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I've got some aols 6.01 inner barrels coming soon, great quality from my test of them. Some real nice parts.
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I'm not that retarded Duck i know how to properly tighten a screw lol. Regarding the safety, I used a G&G plate (DMR type), didn't touch the mechanical safety at all. I say there's an incompatibility between the KA safety lever and the G&G etu trigger board, because with the regular KA switch the safety works properly, with the ETU it becomes super stiff to operate, and once the G&G selector plate pushes to the front to engage the safety latch, this one is so stiff that when switching to semi does fuck all and the safety bar jams in position. But no biggie, I found a Perun V2 at a reasonable price, gonna order another MAXX trigger as well (maybe gold this time?) and go from there. The only decision left to make is about gear ratio and motor.
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So, etu went in, but the safety isn't working anymore and the screw that holds it down stripped the fucking shell. Maybe I'm just retarded, but every time I try to fit one, some weird shit happens. I'm not willing to drop another €150 on a Titan, so I'll just wait for a Perun V2 to come back in stock on some cunt website and install it. I just need binary and precocking, nothing more. Plus a Lonex A1+ if my team's tech lets me have it for not much (otherwise it's gonna be the usual SHS HT or similar)
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No, it is a JG stock, I'm not feeling wealthy enough for a G&P stock
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It's my plan (although using the ETU upgrade kit instead of the optical). The only problem I see is the motor, the stock one is really weak.
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Got it on an Italian retailer, and I seem to have bought the last one they had in stock..
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New gnu, King Arms PDW 9mm SBR (former shorty) in Gun Grey. Internally it's still stock bar a SHS rotary hop unit and a MadBull 6.03 x 229 Black Python v2 (yes I know it's a shit barrel, shut up!), waiting for more disposable income to build a wanker high speed SSG. Externally, I've done some "work" to it. Replaced the PDW stock with a stubby fixed one, it does wobble a bit even if tightened down but I've already designed a spacer (only need to get it printed) that in theory should make it rock solid-ish. Swapped the stock 4" handguard with this lovely Geissele MK8 clone from AliExpress (€16 posted lol), it seems to be fairly solid for such a cheap plastic handguard. Had to remove the dust cover, as you can see the small adjustment screw got in the way of the cover's pivoting rod. 12cm outer barrel extension in and the KA muzzle device (a really fucking heavy plastic noveske style device) fits perfectly inside the handguard (which is really narrow on the inside, that thing fits with just a millimetre per side of space). Also removed the fake PCC shell deflector as it was necessary to remove the dust cover. I like the way it turned out, it's lightweight and maneuvrable and the MP5 mags imo look much better than the ARP-9 ones (and they work, and they're cheap to source, and you're not limited to fucking expensive proprietary mags)
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On a fully charged 11.1 the response is quite meh, I believe the motor is weak and there's a huge ass spring in there to get the 1J output. The stock ROF isn't too bad, in the low 20s I think, will get more accurate readings this weekend. Not going for anything extreme this time, just some 16:1s and either a SHS HT or something like 22tpa to balance things out. This thing will be spammed in binary on a 11.1 anyway to make people cry when I play cqb (once in a blue moon)
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New wanker gun base has arrived, a nice King Arms PDW in grey Oh, by the way, I forgot to buy extra mags for it -.-
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yup, big letdown from SHS -.-
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I'm so bad at not buying stuff -.- Just bought the KA PDW (shorty version in grey). More technical question incoming, how would you build something that has lightning fast cycle time in semi auto, but actually slow (low 20s) ROF?
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That Age Old Question: How to Solve Semi Auto Lockups?
Skara replied to Skara's topic in Electric Guns
I mean, we're all on lockdown so we have plenty of spare time -
That Age Old Question: How to Solve Semi Auto Lockups?
Skara replied to Skara's topic in Electric Guns
It's a 74u, so the barrel is 220mm or so I can definitely SS the thing but I'll do it once the stock piston dies. I could SS the specna too, but it only runs on 7.4s because at 30ish RPS bbs start to become expensive -
Had a look around on eBay. SSO A-Tacs FG bandana A-Tacs FG leafy strip (it's €5 posted so why not, if it works then I'll get some more in different patterns like SS ) Then went to my local hardware store and picked up some white lithium grease and silicone grease so I can stop being a bag of sadness. Now I'm onto a proper Odin as my clone is really fucking atrocious, another Helikon 2 points sling for my AK (for the price they're fucking great) in either Adaptive Green or Coyote and other bits and bobs like stock pouches and a length of 1" webbing to make a sling for my AAP-01 smg thingy.
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That Age Old Question: How to Solve Semi Auto Lockups?
Skara replied to Skara's topic in Electric Guns
Cheers Duck, I'll see what I can do! Trigger response isn't that important in these 2 guns to be fair, I mostly play outdoors and use full auto a lot (like a real wanker), but sometimes the target is just too close (say within 7/8 metres) to burst his ass, so having a reliable semi auto would be nice, I already have one super wanker gun for cqb and another one is in the works (as soon as King Arms is kind enough to restock in Europe -.-) I reckon I could disable AB on both and give the ak a slight hint of precocking (specna 933 overspins like a motherfucker anyway so the piston always stops at mid travel from the SHS HT + 13:1 inertia, while the AK still runs on the standard E&L torque motor and 18:1s). I'll give it a try tonight when I get home and see what happens.
