Skara

For science, sometimes, it's worth sacrificing a building and all its occupants.

You can run 11.1s on stock trigger contacts too. It takes an awful lot of time to wear/burn the trigger blades, by the time they need replacing you'll most likely have dumped the gun or upgraded to a mosfet of some sort.

BuT eEtS FaInE fEr AiRsOfT!

Didn't play today, there weren't enough people and the weather is now way too warm to even breathe. Took the opportunity to check my M4s for next week's tournament and finish my AK, which needed the new Perun v3 installed and the gears short stroked. Installing the mosfet is relatively easy, some soldering is required (negative battery, positive motor and signal to positive) because it's impossible to have a universal harness for V3s. Two teeth removed from the sector as well. Programming the unit is a bit of a cunt tbf, the new hybrid has a very convenient LED system that tells you which setting you're fucking with.....too bad that my gearbox is sealed shut lol. Turned out well, can't wait to use it

To the face?

Them hadron kits didn't seem to increase the rof by a noticeable amount. Recoil vibration is definitely muffled though.

I'm currently in queue to get my 5G shot, I'll take a picture as soon as I get home.

I've been using ML rubbers on my Specnas since I bought them, never had any issue (Macarons, Super Macarons and MRs). Am I not trustworthy?

£20 seems a bit low. Perun AB++ retails for about €50 in Europe and is the least expensive mosfet with precocking. Perun Hybrid is an awesome unit for the price, essentially Titan features at half the price (and half the hassle during installation). I bought two for about €68 a piece. On the same price bracket as the Hybrids, Gate offers the Warfet, which is similar to the AB++ in terms of features but. Going up in price, Gate's series of optical mosfets. You mentioned semi only, a mosfet is not your #1 priority but it's pretty much up there.

Specna chambers are ZCIs.

You probably need to push the auto sear (it's a small flat tab that sits on the front right of the hammer as you grip the gun). At first it scared the shit out of me because I pushed the hammer down too much (it engages said sear) and I couldn't fire.

Silverback SRS. God it is compact and performs really well but it's so fucking ugly. Moreover it's super common right now so it's one more reason to hate on it. Also, dog dicks inside the magazines.

It's better done very carefully with the finest sandpaper you can find.

How much does it protrude into the hop chamber? (to check this, turn the gun upside down and look into the hop up feed tube, help yourself by shining a torch down the muzzle) While you're at it, plug the battery and fire a couple of dry shots, does the nozzle retreat all the way? if you were to drop a bb into the hop chamber -after making sure you're not pointing at your cat or some expensive stuff- and press the trigger, does the nozzle load it into the hop? Oddly enough, I only had bad experiences with G&G greens. Bad air seal, couldn't lift 0.25s, bad consistency (bbs were flying left and right, everywhere but where I was aiming at).

on an all mechanical system, lock ups in semi are unfortunately frequent. What happens is the gears sometimes stop in a position where the COL (cut off lever) is half engaged so that the trigger grabs the trolley but when it gets near the switch the half engaged COL lifts it and sends it back to its resting position. There is no real solution to fix this without resorting to a programmable mosfet. Even then Active Brake doesn't help, you either need precocking (set amount of overspin every time) or get rid of the mechanical cut off via a mosfet with cycle control.

Hadron short stroke kits delivered, had to pay an extra €14 in fees (thanks Brexit), bumping up the final price at €28.50 per kit (incl postage), which makes them automatically not viable to buy in Europe. Will install tonight in both guns and I will also move the charging handle to the pistol while I wait for my WGC order to arrive.

I never said that. On the contrary, I highly praise them for being good guns at affordable prices. It's just that, as with all things, when you lower the price you need to cut corners somewhere and the compression is what Specna chose for their Core/Edge series. Regarding PME, imagine your gun suddenly turning into a typewriter.

Almost forgot. Don't push for maximum fps/Joules, it's a thin line between having a great day and not being able to play because the site chrono is messed up and reads higher energy levels. There is sod all difference between 1 and 1.1 Joules, maybe two metres of extra range on a good day. On the overspin issue, short stroking + a stiffer spring will help, but honestly I wouldn't worry too much about it, in a certain way it avoids lock ups Which imo are worse than a bit of automatic precocking as I'd rather have a weird cycle timing than pulling the trigger to see no BB leaving the barrel

It depends on the available air volume and barrel length. To give some context: My C08 has a 4/5 cylinder, 247x6.02 barrel and with just one tooth removed and a SHS m90 it clocks in at 0.95J My C02 has the stock 3/4 cylinder, 260x6.02 barrel, two teeth removed and with a SHS m90 it does 0.99J, on the verge of being hot for my country's law. Apart from the cylinder, mosfet (irrelevant), barrel length and hop rubber (both Maple Leaf, MR and Super Macaron respectively) they have the same exact internals (SHS HT and SHS 13:1 gears). Mind you, I didn't do any math when removing teeth, I just went by feeling but kept barrel length in mind when doing the C02 (I did the c08 first). With an M100 it clocked at 1.2J. also PDI barrels aren't as tight as ZCIs (which is a good thing, wider over tighter every day) I recommend getting a chrono and doing things one step at a time. I know dismantling and putting together the gun multiple times is tedious but it's the only way to ensure you don't overdo something. As far as nozzles go, SHS polymer ones are good, I have one in my PDW and it gives a nice 100% seal, I did remove the little bridge on top to get maximum air flow. Don't go for a metal nozzle though, they tend to shred hop rubbers and do all sorts of nasty shit if not 101% aligned. Also make sure to get the right length, too long and it won't feed, too short and it won't seal against the hop rubber. Measure the stock one with a caliper and buy accordingly.

Yes Why go through the hassle of spending time with a new set of gears when you can literally hack the first two teeth off the pickup side of the sector and be done with it?

My Cores don't have the Onion gearbox, yet the compression was almost Ares levels of bad out of the box, even after copious amounts of lubing and o-ring stretching Technically one does not have to replace the whole compression set, at worst it's a matter of replacing the piston head o-ring and swapping the nozzle with a better one. On mine I went the extra length and replaced both nozzles and piston heads with FPS parts, mainly for testing as I heard great things about them but never got the chance to try them out. I left the stock cylinder heads as they sealed perfectly against the cylinders and being polymer they help with shock absorption (the piston heads and nozzles are polymer too btw)

The bearing is so that you can still use the hammer while you wait for a replacement.

your mom's a whore, did you know that?