Skara

Silverback SRS. God it is compact and performs really well but it's so fucking ugly. Moreover it's super common right now so it's one more reason to hate on it. Also, dog dicks inside the magazines.

It's better done very carefully with the finest sandpaper you can find.

How much does it protrude into the hop chamber? (to check this, turn the gun upside down and look into the hop up feed tube, help yourself by shining a torch down the muzzle) While you're at it, plug the battery and fire a couple of dry shots, does the nozzle retreat all the way? if you were to drop a bb into the hop chamber -after making sure you're not pointing at your cat or some expensive stuff- and press the trigger, does the nozzle load it into the hop? Oddly enough, I only had bad experiences with G&G greens. Bad air seal, couldn't lift 0.25s, bad consistency (bbs were flying left and right, everywhere but where I was aiming at).

on an all mechanical system, lock ups in semi are unfortunately frequent. What happens is the gears sometimes stop in a position where the COL (cut off lever) is half engaged so that the trigger grabs the trolley but when it gets near the switch the half engaged COL lifts it and sends it back to its resting position. There is no real solution to fix this without resorting to a programmable mosfet. Even then Active Brake doesn't help, you either need precocking (set amount of overspin every time) or get rid of the mechanical cut off via a mosfet with cycle control.

Hadron short stroke kits delivered, had to pay an extra €14 in fees (thanks Brexit), bumping up the final price at €28.50 per kit (incl postage), which makes them automatically not viable to buy in Europe. Will install tonight in both guns and I will also move the charging handle to the pistol while I wait for my WGC order to arrive.

I never said that. On the contrary, I highly praise them for being good guns at affordable prices. It's just that, as with all things, when you lower the price you need to cut corners somewhere and the compression is what Specna chose for their Core/Edge series. Regarding PME, imagine your gun suddenly turning into a typewriter.

Almost forgot. Don't push for maximum fps/Joules, it's a thin line between having a great day and not being able to play because the site chrono is messed up and reads higher energy levels. There is sod all difference between 1 and 1.1 Joules, maybe two metres of extra range on a good day. On the overspin issue, short stroking + a stiffer spring will help, but honestly I wouldn't worry too much about it, in a certain way it avoids lock ups Which imo are worse than a bit of automatic precocking as I'd rather have a weird cycle timing than pulling the trigger to see no BB leaving the barrel

It depends on the available air volume and barrel length. To give some context: My C08 has a 4/5 cylinder, 247x6.02 barrel and with just one tooth removed and a SHS m90 it clocks in at 0.95J My C02 has the stock 3/4 cylinder, 260x6.02 barrel, two teeth removed and with a SHS m90 it does 0.99J, on the verge of being hot for my country's law. Apart from the cylinder, mosfet (irrelevant), barrel length and hop rubber (both Maple Leaf, MR and Super Macaron respectively) they have the same exact internals (SHS HT and SHS 13:1 gears). Mind you, I didn't do any math when removing teeth, I just went by feeling but kept barrel length in mind when doing the C02 (I did the c08 first). With an M100 it clocked at 1.2J. also PDI barrels aren't as tight as ZCIs (which is a good thing, wider over tighter every day) I recommend getting a chrono and doing things one step at a time. I know dismantling and putting together the gun multiple times is tedious but it's the only way to ensure you don't overdo something. As far as nozzles go, SHS polymer ones are good, I have one in my PDW and it gives a nice 100% seal, I did remove the little bridge on top to get maximum air flow. Don't go for a metal nozzle though, they tend to shred hop rubbers and do all sorts of nasty shit if not 101% aligned. Also make sure to get the right length, too long and it won't feed, too short and it won't seal against the hop rubber. Measure the stock one with a caliper and buy accordingly.

Yes Why go through the hassle of spending time with a new set of gears when you can literally hack the first two teeth off the pickup side of the sector and be done with it?

My Cores don't have the Onion gearbox, yet the compression was almost Ares levels of bad out of the box, even after copious amounts of lubing and o-ring stretching Technically one does not have to replace the whole compression set, at worst it's a matter of replacing the piston head o-ring and swapping the nozzle with a better one. On mine I went the extra length and replaced both nozzles and piston heads with FPS parts, mainly for testing as I heard great things about them but never got the chance to try them out. I left the stock cylinder heads as they sealed perfectly against the cylinders and being polymer they help with shock absorption (the piston heads and nozzles are polymer too btw)

The bearing is so that you can still use the hammer while you wait for a replacement.

your mom's a whore, did you know that?

The stock compression in specnas is bad, I was getting horrible energy losses going from 0.2s/0.98J to 0.28s/0.6J (without even setting the hop), so I recommend you throw away the nozzle and get one with at least one o-ring. With the same gears/motor and a slightly beefier battery (7.4v 1450mAh 30c) I was getting PME for days, so depending on your barrel length you may want to short stroke the sector by one or two teeth and replace the spring with a longer one (SHS springs are great). I say replace the spring because bbs act as barrel plugs, increasing back pressure on the piston, the short stock spring didn't have enough oomph to overcome said back pressure and even on a short stroked setup I still had PME . Also forget about flat hops, they require an unnecessary amount of work (they need a super thick tensioner to make up for the lack of contact patch) and you can just get better results with a W-Hold or a maple leaf rubber. Moreover a flat hop stretches the rubber a lot more than other setups, which leads to a higher chance of tearing the rubber apart if the barrel window isn't 100% smooth. It's a thing of the past and it should stay there.

After all, can't beat good ol' H2O, can you? It's all I drink when I'm out playing.

They suck up water harder than a low quality whore sucks dicks. A few years ago i made the huge mistake of drinking a monster energy can before a tournament and ended up with cramps and mild dehydration halfway through. Never. Fucking. Again.

It wasn't a full sized rifle, I had my AAP smg/dmr with me, which is the size of a MP9 more or less. My whole kit was bodged up in a hurry though, next time i'll be more prepared.

I'd just get a bearing rotor at that point if there is no further damage to the hammer. 9mm is required as the 8mm one is for semi only guns. As far as triggers go, I found the TTIs to be extremely comfortable, the lack of safety doesn't bother me at all and it also automatically disables the cross bolt safety (a plus for me, it's not like the gun is likely to go off by itself so)..

It was hilarious tbf. 1st shot was an awful near miss because I had my rifle slightly canted, but he didn't seem to realize he was under fire. 2nd shot was deflected by a twig and went in his cheek. 3rd shot was square on his nose. All this from 30m tops so the BB had plenty of energy, it's not like I was a mile away. Was cocking the 4th shot but then a teammate took him out. I'm happy though, finally the vsr had the chance to show its worth (please note that I am shit at sniping so even getting one shot off is an achievement for me).

I didn't feel like being useful today so I took the vsr, mk23 and aap smg/dmr out for a spin. Well, it turned out to be a good combination: The vsr didn't get used much due to the bushy nature of our field, I did get two long-ish kills with it (on the same person, right off the helmet because it's all I could see and a very satisfying "twack"), the third person I shot with it decided to tank both bbs (to the face, btw, from 40ish metres) and shrug them off despite bleeding a tiny bit from one of the impacts. The mk23 and AAP, though, got used way more. Sure I could have carried the pistol AAP for convenience, but the added stability provided by the stock and foregrip really helped a lot! Swapped the short dot with my T1 at the last minute before the first game, but in hindsight I should have kept the optic on there as I think it makes much more sense on a gun that is so accurate it would make the vsr redundant if it wasn't that quiet. As always, there were a few negatives: apart from the guy who didn't call his hits (he's the one who lost the national finals for us, btw, I'm used to him doing this kind of shit and the solution is generally a good burst to the face, couldn't do that today unfortunately), there have been a couple of arguments between the younger members, mostly about whose cock was the longest as it often happens between teenagers, you know, cooks and hens and farmer Joe. The main gripe of today, though, was kit (mhm, never had an issue with kit, ever, I swear): I had already tried doing this a while ago, but damn, trying to carry three guns at once sucks. Especially when one of these guns is hanging off a makeshift one point sling and keeps bouncing off and getting caught in stuff. Back to the drawing board on that one.

Today I learned that people can take two 0.3s to the face from a sniper rifle, bleed, and shrug them off like nothing happened And that trying to carry 2 guns and a pistol is a cunt.

150mm

Completely unnecessary, but who doesn't want to deck out a hilarious gun with hilarious parts?

Yup. In the meantime, I ordered a TTI charging handle with external fire selector for the DMR. Unfortunately WGC doesn't have those nice CCT hammer sets