Skara

I'd look at the feed lips, compare the drum to your standard mags and see if there are any differences in dimension or shape.

1st game of 2022 gone, it was fun.. What isn't fun is the hole I discovered in my mayflower rig. A perfect square in one of the side pouches. No fucking clue how it happened but I'm getting it fixed tomorrow.

Well to be fair high ROF is simply a side effect of achieving fast trigger response and cycle time. I'm sure that back when MOSFETs were not a thing (and most importantly we didn't have dickheads posting on YouTube) nobody really complained about being peppered by 30 RPS guns.

Just don't go for a super tight bore, it's all marketing bollocks and 6.05s will yield much better results than 6.01s.. Oh, and if you really want to sling 0.3s, get a new hop rubber.

And that is why being forced to play in clubs is a massive plus We get to know each other relatively well and we can spot dickheads right away (and handle them properly before they cause any sort of damage).

Yup, reduces power without having to cut springs or shorten the barrel. Plus helps avoiding PME and a bunch of other benefits like faster cycle time. Just make sure you have enough air volume before getting excited with a Dremel

Knock one tooth off the sector and you'll be golden.

Could be the phone mic but that doesn't sound healthy.

Yo I'm not in the Sahara!!! My field is at about 600m asl and it gets as cold as you guys

Yep 70s don't deform as easily as 50s and 60s, give much better results in full auto fire than the softer counterparts. 50s are way too soft even at 1J.

Give me ALL THE FUCKING ROF! Actually I've had this very discussion with a couple of teammates (kids mostly) not too long ago. We were chatting about upgrades and they wanted to know what a good RoF was, told them it's around 22 because it still gives plenty of plastic being thrown over there but at the same time you don't empty a magazine in 2 seconds flat. (Unsurprisingly, 22 RPS is what all my guns achieve on 7.4 batteries except for the pdw, which uses a slower motor)

I did the testing in winter, where it doesn't get much warmer than you guys I mean I'm in southern Europe but I'm not in the Sahara yet

If you go for a macaron, I suggest the Super variant, the contact patch is wider and it has two convenient shoulders that sit on the barrel window for better alignment and rigidity. Also go for a 70, I got better results with 70s than 60s or 50s in terms of consistency and range. Omega nubs are fine albeit you want the hardest one you can find for a more consistent hop. Motors I use both SHS HTs and ZCI 22tpa motors, the latter is much slower but runs super cool, the SHS will run a lot faster but heat up more.

That sucks! It appears that the only option is to get a CowCow set then... Great, the thing is impossible to get here in Italy..I guess I'm fucked

It was okay today. Played with midcaps because my lonex are all in pieces for maintenance and repairs (got very little spare time these days and everything takes thrice as long), I genuinely thought I would be outgunned but nope, it was completely fine, I guess I should use them more (on the ak, for example, if I can fix the mosfet overheating issue). Having a proper Odin does help massively though! Next time, of it's not raining, I'll crack out the ak and smersh, haven't touched it since this summer.

I use flash mags and have owned a G&G manual drum for a while. The drum is convenient and being mechanical it's almost indestructible, but it weighs a metric fuck ton (it's 2kgs fully loaded). That's the main reason why I sold it. Winding it is easy enough once you get used to it. Can recommend both systems because they work really well, just be aware of the newer lonex mags because I've seen quite a few die (the little anti reversal springs seem softer than what they used to be).

That's the hop up and has little to do with power.

I'll crack out the calibre tonight but from memory it should be an M3 nut.

Btw I own a C-08, it's my tournament gun Although there is nothing original left inside apart from the gearbox shell

I'll elaborate more: Having a realistic feeling gun is great, but in terms of actual performance on the field, the body being polymer or metal doesn't make any difference. Thing is, we are mostly lumping around our guns all day and slowly drain our energy. The weight of the thing will determine at what point in time you'll start to hate your life I'd rather have an all polymer gun that is light and manoeuvrable than something realistic looking but that will tire out my arms quickly. with that being said, Specna (along with Evolution, Dboys and Saigo Defense) offers more than G&G despite having a lower price point: proper steel bushings, decent brass barrel, QC gearbox and rotary hop unit, whereas G&G insists on brass bushings, pressed tinfoil barrels and those stupid geared hop units that a) are more expensive to make and b) they are flawed in design because they tend to unwind themselves. And they out screws on the wrong side of the gearbox -.- you pay for the brand (and a fancy polymer body with the 2.0 series) but get outdated internals. I know you can replace those parts on a G&G buy why pay more and replace parts when you can spend less and have them on board already?

When I had the arp9 I couldn't fit anything in the pdw stock without the extension. Now mind you, I did have some extra wiring because of the perun upgrade kit, but still the battery space is too limited! I ran it on a pair of 11.1s that are roughly 130x17x18 millimetres.

Get the C-25! You're getting more bang for buck than any G&G you'll ever come across and, let's be fair, it's much better to have a polymer body than a pot metal one!

A retailer local-ish to me has one king arms pdw stock ? I'm waking up super early tomorrow to collect it on my way to my drone piloting exam Just need one more now (preferably in fde)